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Introducing: The Baltic MR Moissanite

Baltic s MR, which stands for micro-rotor, is the perfect affordable flex on the wrist. The 36mm watches in the collection feature a sturdy field-watch case paired with either a Breguet-style or dressy roulette-inspired dial and, to top it all off, a micro-rotor movement. For around $700, the Baltic MR offers unmatched style and attitude, even five years after its introduction. Now, Baltic founder Etienne Malec is working on an updated MR. But before putting the OG MR to rest, he decided to do something special. The Baltic MR Moissanite, with a bezel full of baguette-cut stones, was supposed to be a one-off. However, it is now available as a limited edition of only 200 pieces.The Baltic MR d...

Rado True Round Les Couleurs Le Corbusier Special Editions

Rado has a long-standing collaborative relationship with Les Couleurs Suisse. Until now, this has led to 12 releases that used Le Corbusier s 63-shade color system, which he described in his book Polychromie Architecturale. For its latest collaborative effort, Rado took it a step beyond just using the Swiss-French architect s color system. While these watches each include four shades from it, they also pay homage to some of Le Corbusier s most important architectural works. That makes this new trio of Rado True Round Les Couleurs Le Corbusier Special Editions so much more than just an exploration of colors. They are a celebration of the work of a man who many consider the master of modern ...

Inclusive Exclusive Watchmaking - Whats It All About?

You can be a fan of Van Gogh while knowing you will never, ever have one of his works hanging on your wall. Can you be a fan of watches while being aware that you cant afford the objects of your desire? Yes, you can, but only if you can let go of the concept of ownership. Thats not easy, especially when objects that were once within reach slowly but surely disappear from the horizon. Van Goghs Starry Night was always beyond possession; an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo once wasnt, but it is now for many. The disillusionment caused by unattainable watches is evident in Fratellos comments section. Maybe we need a massive change in attitude and perspective to keep enjoying watchmaking. After l...

Fratello Talks: Approaches To Buying Your First Serious Watch

For many of us, theres a clear line between the watches we liked and the first one we considered serious. Maybe it was the first mechanical piece we bought with our hard-earned money. Maybe it was the first watch that required actual research, comparison, and a deep breath before hitting confirm order. In todays episode of Fratello Talks, Thomas, RJ, and Nacho discuss the different approaches to buying that first serious watch. Should you go safe and classic? Should you follow your heart? Or should you stretch the budget? And perhaps most importantly, what does serious even mean? As always, we kick things off with a quick wrist check.This video is blocked because you did not accept marketing...

The Bianchet UltraFino Monaco: More Than Just A New Colorway

The latest addition to Bianchets UltraFino lineup is closely tied to the world of electric powerboat racing. In practice, though, the UltraFino Monaco stands comfortably on its own. Even if, like me, you dont actively follow the E1 Series or Team Monacos exploits on the water, theres plenty here to appreciate about the UltraFino Monaco as a watch. This feels less like a niche collaboration piece and more like a confident evolution of a platform that has already proven its worth.I haven t had the Bianchet UltraFino Monaco in hand yet, though I hope that changes at Watches and Wonders. That said, this isnt my first encounter with the UltraFino concept. I covered the launch of the sapphire and ...

How To Evaluate A Vintage Watch And Avoid Buying A Dud

Welcome back to another installment of Back to Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to the watch hobby. This time, I will share some tips on how to evaluate a vintage watch and avoid buying a dud. This article is aimed particularly at those looking to buy their first vintage watch. As always with Back to Basics, though, I invite our more seasoned readers to share their insights in the comments section below. Lets make this as valuable to newcomers as we can!I will not go into specific vintage watches and their idiosyncrasies. Once you have a brand and model in mind, the internet is full of valuable model-specific resources. Instead, I aim to equip you with a healthy, critical eye and mindse...

Eight Curated Reverso Watches From The 1930s

Oldies but goldies. Reverso watches from the 1930s comprise Jaeger-LeCoultre s fifth capsule collection of The Collectibles. As you can see, this time, the focus is squarely on the brands iconic model, the reversible Reverso, originally launched in 1931. All eight watches were fully authenticated and restored in the brands restoration workshop in Le Sentier, Switzerland. A selection of these collectibles is on display in JLCs NYC boutique until February 23rd. Lets look at all eight.The thoroughly curated fifth capsule collection of The Collectibles includes watches dating from 1931 to 1937. The collection includes eight rare and sought-after models, emblematic pieces from the golden age of 2...

Introducing: The Niton Prima

Not too long ago, we saw almost a flurry of historic watch brands revived. Just when this trend seems to have died down somewhat, here we have Niton. A house originally dating back to 1919 and since lost to history (more on that later) makes a comeback today. This debut results in the aptly named Niton Prima, limited to 19 pieces of each of the two available versions.Now, if you fear you ll see more retro-styled, cheaply made, sentimental reissues, dont worry. Niton takes a different route. These are high-end indie watches with an evolved design language. As you may know, thats right up my alley. So, join me for a closer look!Nitons historyFounded in Geneva in 1919 by Auguste Jeannet and for...

Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Celestial

This year marks 180 years since Fears Watch Company Limited s foundation in 1846 and a respectable 10 years since its reestablishment by Edwin Fears great-great-great-grandson, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. That means there s a good reason for a celebration, and following the announcement of the Brunswick 40 1846 Edition in January, the British brand keeps the ball rolling with a very special limited edition of its Brunswick Jump Hour. The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Celestial features an aventurine outer ring depicting a starry night sky and a mother-of-pearl center representing the Moon. If you want this watch, you might have to be quick, as only 75 pieces will be available.I m a big fan of...

New: The Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept Watch

Chopard working with Zagato is a bold move. Of all the famous Italian coachbuilders, Zagato is the most outspoken. The marque dates back to 1919, and its automotive legacy started in 1928, when a Zagato-bodied Alfa Romeo 1750 claimed victory at the Mille Miglia. The bulbous forms and flowing shapes recall Ugo Zagatos expertise in the aviation industry, where he built lightweight aluminum aircraft panels. Apart from the absence of straight lines, a Zagato design is defined by eliminating anything that might add weight. Although form follows function, a Zagato-designed car is a piece of automotive art. How about the Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept watch? Is it also an unconventional mix of fo...

Studio Underd0g Establishes The D0ghouse In Maidenhead

Studio Underd0g is one of the most refreshing success stories in modern watchmaking. What began as a plucky one?man operation creating distinctive, cuisine?themed watches has grown into a full?blown enterprise producing more than 14,000 watches per year - and still growing. Even with Chinese?sourced Seagull ST?1901 calibers powering the popular 01Series and Swiss movements used in the 02Series and 03Series, there remains a clear sense of pride in carrying out assembly and testing on British shores.That commitment now formalizes with Studio Underd0gs acquisition of the Horologium workshop, where its assembly and testing take place. Renamed The D0ghouse, this now-in-house facility gives Studio...

Georges Kern: Collectors Are Helping Me To Avoid Mistakes

During Dubai Watch Week, I sat down with Georges Kern to discuss his House of Brands group, which consists of Gallet, Breitling, and Universal Geneve. His work on adding Gallet and Universal Geneve to his portfolio has not gone under the radar. In recent times, we noticed a lot of speculation, rumors, previews, and advisory-board sessions. In 2026, with great anticipation, we will see Gallet and Universal Geneve return to life and join Breitling in the House of Brands group.The House of Brands - Gallet, Breitling, Universal GeneveHow is it to work on the revival of these brands in an economic climate that is far from ideal? We live in challenging times, but Georges Kern seems imperturbable i...

Hands-On With The Fun CIGA Design Time Cipher

Sometimes good things happen really fast. It s been less than two weeks since I wrote the introduction article for the new CIGA Design Time Cipher. In it, I expressed my wish to take the brand s latest creation for a spin, and barely a week after publication, the watch landed on my desk. So for the past few days, I ve had a chance to check out the Time Cipher, a watch with an intuitive wandering hours display. As it turns out, it s a lot of fun, and that s exactly what I expected. It s nice when a watch fully delivers on its promise.Straight out of the box, the new CIGA Design Time Cipher immediately stands out despite its black aesthetic. As I explained, the brand released the Time Cipher i...

New: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Agave Blue

If you ve listened to Balazs and me on Fratello On Air, you ll know that I have a huge crush on Parmigiani Fleurier. Specifically, the Tonda PF 36mm is on my radar, but if my wrist were larger, today s watch would be a likely candidate. Specifically, the brand has introduced the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Agave Blue, available in a stainless steel or 18K rose gold case with a matching bracelet.Yes, I m in love with the Tonda PF. For my money, Parmigiani Fleurier offers the prettiest and most comfortable integrated-bracelet watch for sale today. Therefore, while a color variant might not strike some as the most exciting news, I look forward to seeing how new colors work with the overall design. Tha...

Dive Chronographs - The Ultimate Tool Watches?

In this hobby, we often use the term tool watch to describe a timepiece built for a specific, practical purpose. Traditionally, dive watches have dominated this category. These are timepieces engineered to withstand the depths of the ocean, with robust construction, water resistance, and legibility in mind. However, the rise of dive chronographs has added a new level of complexity and functionality to these tool watches.A dive chronograph is a timepiece that not only offers the water resistance and durability of a traditional dive watch but also incorporates the sophisticated chronograph function, enabling precise timekeeping for events or tasks that require measurement to the second.Why div...

Seiko Rotocall Re-Editions Vs. Casio G-Shock Square In Steel

Good morning, Fratelli, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Today will be a fully digital installment. When Seiko introduced the Rotocall re-editions, many enthusiasts got excited. The original 80s watch, also known as the Astronaut, was used on many space missions, and its practical, uniquely designed bezel is a standout feature. We already put it up against the Seiko 5 Gene Kranz at the beginning of the year, and it lost. But we re giving it another chance, this time against another digital icon, the Casio G-Shock Square in steel.Thomas will defend the more modern and rugged steel G-Shock Square, priced at $499, and Daan will do the same for the Seiko Rotocall re-editions, pri...

New: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon In Titanium Red

Vacheron Constantin unveils a new Overseas Tourbillon model with a captivating deep red sunburst dial. The aperture at 6 o clock provides an unobstructed view of the tourbillon regulator, with the 22K gold peripheral rotor allowing light through the case back s sapphire display. This model is the third iteration of the Overseas Tourbillon in a Grade 5 titanium case. The first edition in 2022 featured an openworked dial, and then came the 2024 edition with a lacquered blue dial. Following regular two-year intervals, Vacheron now gives us the rich, deep red dial and some light blue accents. As the 42.5 10.39mm titanium case remains, this Overseas retains its light and robust feel.Titanium is...

New 38mm Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Models

Let bygones be bygones. When the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection debuted in January 2019 at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), the reception was mixed, to put it mildly. Since then, the collection has evolved and become increasingly refined. The upgrade that won me over was the elaborate stamped dial that looks more sophisticated and refined than the word stamped suggests. In 2026, the collection expands with two 38mm Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding models and a 41mm Tourbillon that made me think of a grand piano. So lets put the Codes from seven years ago in a box, close the lid, and take a fresh look at the latest iterations.During the AP Social Club ...

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic

Urwerk is always up to something fun, and today s new UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic is proof. While we ve seen this complication before, it now comes with some novel material innovations. Let s have a closer look.It doesn t feel like so long ago that we were visiting Urwerk s headquarters during Geneva Watch Days. However, only six months later, we re announcing pieces that we didn t see during our trip. The forward-thinking brand moves quickly. Indeed, it s moving at the speed of light with today s introduction. Let s have a look at the new UR-100V.The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed CeramicUrwerk s newest offering is, in fact, a variant of a watch we ve previously seen. In 2024, my colleague Thomas...

Hands-On With The ArtyA Luminity Wavy AMR-01

Whenever we re in Geneva, it s fun to stop by ArtyA. On any given day, the boutique could see a visit from a music star. Or, at one point, a custom motorcycle took center stage. Late last year, though, it was just us from Fratello who took up residence for an hour to see the brand s latest offerings. ArtyA is known for pushing boundaries with case materials and overall designs. Today s Luminity Wavy models channel some of those characteristics but but do so in proportions that emphasize balance and ergonomics.ArtyA has never positioned itself as a run-of-the-mill watch brand; instead, it places equal emphasis on mechanical substance, expressive materials, and design. Here, mechanical substan...