Morgan Stanley Investment Management published its Ninth Annual Swiss Watcher on February 19th. The report dives deep into the commercial performance of the Swiss watch market on a brand-by-brand level. I assume very few watch enthusiasts read the whole thing, but one table is rather famous: the top 50 Swiss watch brands ranked by turnover. Watch lovers all over the globe pore over the ranking: Which brand is up? Which is down? Who overtook whom? In a sense, the yearly publication became a public scoreboard for the Swiss watch world s biggest players.While we hear murmurs from the industry about the report every year, this year is different. For the first time, a major player - the Swatch Gr...
Depancel has made a name for itself by creating an extensive collection of race-inspired chronographs. For its newest effort, the brand teamed up with an actual racing team to become an active partner in modern motorsports. The Serie R01 Depancel DAMS Lucas Oil fuses the retro silhouette of the Depancel Serie R01 and the colors of the DAMS Lucas Oil racing team. I had a chance to go hands-on with this collaborative effort.Since Depancels debut in 2018, it has come a long way. The French brand has gained a dedicated fan following with its retro-styled racing chronographs. Now, in the next step, Depancel officially steps into the world of motorsports, joining forces with a successful team th...
During LVMH Watch Week in Milan, I was especially interested in the new Zenith releases. It is no secret that I love Zenith. The brand has managed to amaze me time and again with releases that combine the best in watch design with its legendary calibers. To my surprise, for this year s LVMH Watch Week, Zenith focused on its Defy collection with five new modern-looking additions and a vintage-inspired one. I had a chance to go hands-on with the last model. The Zenith Defy Revival A3643 is the fifth to celebrate the classic looks of the original Zenith Defy models from the late 1960s. It s time to find out whether the vintage charm holds up in 2026.I have to immediately clarify the above state...
What watch would you buy with $5k in your pocket today? And what if you could spend no less than $4,500? That s the hypothetical dilemma we re tackling on Fratello Talks today. RJ, Daan, and Nacho have taken the challenge, and in this week s episode, they go through their picks. They were shocked at how few watches actually land within the price point, with Tudor holding the lion s share of options. Still, they managed to put together a varied series of watches, both new and pre-owned. Be sure to tune in if you want to hear about the watches they d buy for $5,000 today. Before getting into it, though, it s time for a wrist check.This video is blocked because you did not accept marketing cook...
Sorry, sir, we dont serve Pepsi here anymore. I have heard this before. Last time, I was presented with a disgusting hipster alternative, locally sourced and seemingly made of organic wastewater from small-batch sewage systems housing free-range rats. Thats what it tasted like to me, anyway. Come on, no Pepsi or Coke? We need at least one of them on the menu, dont we?Okay, I will admit that I almost exclusively drink water and coffee, so I am actually not all that bothered. But the watch world seems to be! Rumor has it that is discontinuing the GMT-Master II Pepsi. Social media, blogs, and forums are full of it, so we thought wed bring you the news in a more level-headed, Fratello kind of m...
The current Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 310.30.42.50.01.001 debuted on January 8th, 2021. The Moonwatch received a ton of updates, making many Speedmaster enthusiasts very happy. Those who werent hardcore fans, though, mainly found the big price increase from just south of $5,000 to $6,100 surprising.Updates to the modern MoonwatchYou can read a full comparison between the former model and the current Moonwatch here. In a nutshell, Omega made changes to the case, dial, hands, and bezel. Importantly, the watch also received a long-awaited new bracelet. Basically, everything changed, but the design remained the same. As I own one of the previous models, I waited a few months befor...
The name Leica often comes up in the Fratello office. Usually, it s in reference to its famous cameras, but ever since the German brand introduced its first mechanical watches, we ve also begun associating it with horology. This shows how closely connected mechanical watchmaking and photography are. In both, high-precision instruments are vital, and Leica certainly knows a thing or two about those. I had a chance to try out the Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2. These two remarkable watches cleverly integrate links to the brand s cameras. Let me explain.When I had the opportunity to work with Fratello s Thomas van Straaten on the strategy for his brand, VPC Watch Co., I brought up Leica Camera AG as a ref...
March LA.B initially caught my eye with the release of its AM2 GMT Grall Edition in 2024. But the French brand has been around for much longer than just a few years. It is the brainchild of three friends - Alain Marhic, Jer?me Mage, and Joseph Chatel. They share a passion for surfing and 1970s design and started the brand back in 2008. Marhic is the brand s CEO and operates out of Biarritz, France, while Creative Director Mage lives in LA. The two cities also explain the way LA.B is written. For its annual March Millesime release, the brand unveils the special AM2 Nyctalope Carbon. It s a lightweight version of March LA.B s popular AM2, featuring a special forged carbon case. It s time to fi...
Time flies when everything resonates nicely, doesnt it? It sure does for Armin Strom. No fewer than 10 years have passed since the independent Swiss house launched its breakthrough resonance mechanism. Although not actively marketed as an anniversary model, I reckon it is safe to say this rather exuberant version, the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby, wears its birthday hat very well. Lets have a closer look!This new version of the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance marries the synthetic rubies in the movement to a natural ruby dial. The house will produce only five examples of this watch, each costing CHF 85,000.Harnessing the power of resonanceOkay, so whats all the fuss around ...
Meet the Micromilspec Milgraph T5, a new addition to the lineup, featuring red details on its new silver-white or black dial and available on a titanium bracelet or a red, white, or black rubber strap. You might have to look twice to see whats new about the T5. Did you spot it? Instead of orange details, the T5 has red ones. And I have to say, the red does it. The use of red, white, and black is foolproof. It looks functional and crisp. And thats what you want from a direct descendant of the brands very first watch, the Field Testing Unit (FTU), which was developed for military field testing before eventually being available to civilians.Curious about the T5 name, I did a little search. It t...
Ressence is back with a limited-edition Type 9 in the brand s Art Watch Series. Last year, Beno?t Mintiens introduced a colorful pair of Type 8 models in collaboration with German painter and sculptor Daniel Engelberg. This time, the Belgian brand asked Japanese artist Terumasa Ikeda to decorate the Type 9 s dial. He s famous for applying laser-cut mother-of-pearl pieces and Arabic numerals to lacquered boxes. The boxes look like they come straight from The Matrix. The result on the Ressence Type 9 Ikeda is again very colorful, different, and, most of all, mesmerizing. It has only been a little over a year since the Ressence Type 9 came out. However, it has already played a role in a coupl...
Every year on November 1st and 2nd, Mexico celebrates Dia de los Muertos, or the Day of the Dead. On that day, Mexican people welcome back the spirits of the departed. This tradition centers around the idea that death is part of life, and as such, you celebrate it with a great, colorful party. To honor Dia de los Muertos, IFL Watches has created two special versions of the Citizen Tsuyosa. This special Cavalera Collection showcases two vibrant sides of Dia de los Muertos through hand-painted dials. Let s find out more.When I think of Dia de los Muertos, I immediately think of the opening scene of the James Bond movie Spectre. The wild opening sequence of this 2015 Bond film sees Daniel Craig...
Part of the fascination that drives my interest in watches is the endless variations in design and, even more so, completely new ideas that result in something I have never seen before. Most of these true innovations come from small independent brands that do not need to cater to the mass market. Recently, I was lucky to discover such a true innovation. And I could even arrange to have it for myself for a while, so I can present it to you in detail. This is the Kudoke 5.The Kudokes (Ev on the left, Stefan at the bottom) and their teamKudokeIn case you don t know the brand Kudoke, let me give you a brief introduction. The mastermind behind it is Stefan Kudoke. Stefan and his wife, Ev, manage ...
It s Sunday, which means it s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, it s an epic battle between two retro dive watches. Each is inspired by its respective brand s 1960s classics. Jorg s pick is the Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival, a modern version of the brand s Deep Blue. Mike s pick is the Aquastar Deepstar II, a contemporary time-only version of the classic Deepstar Chronograph. Both dive watches celebrate the style of their vintage predecessors and combine it with modern-day specs. But which will come out on top in this battle? Let s find out.Today s contenders are not just retro dive watches. They also each boast a quirky aesthetic that is far from your normal dive watch....
I first strapped the Panerai Luminor Base Logo PAM01086 to my wrist on a gray Sydney morning. Anchored to my wrist was one of the most storied dive-watch silhouettes in the world - simple, formidable, and, yes, iconic.Over the next two weeks, I wore it everywhere, from work and coffee runs to rainy city streets and the pounding surf of the Pacific Ocean off Sydney on a sunny day. What unfolded wasnt a test of just the watchs specs on paper but also of its character in real life.Image: PaneraiWhy Panerai is historically significant?Modern Panerai holds historical significance because it evolved directly from purpose-built dive watches created for the Royal Italian Navys frogmen in the mid-20t...
We re a week away from the third annual British Watchmakers Day. A record 48 brands will showcase wares and share stories with the buying public. Of the brands exhibiting, 26 will also present limited-edition timepieces exclusive to attendees at the show. This time, new parameters are in place to limit each brand to 50 pieces of any special models for the day. This encourages buyers to seek out smaller brands, rather than big brands taking all the attention. Also, restrictions are in place to ensure pre-orders don t deplete availability for ticket holders. Essentially, if you have a ticket, you have a good chance of getting something special at the show. But what to get? Well, I selected so...
Some colorways naturally lend themselves to a particular watch style. Think, for instance, of a blue-and-red Pepsi combination for a GMT watch, stark black and white for a Flieger, or simply the marriage of blued hands over a porcelain-white dial on any number of dress watches. Im sure Im missing many more. Some of those combinations are due to practicality, while others result from color theory and how they make us feel.The blend of gold and deep burgundy in the new Farer World Timer Thorne Gold hints at a luxurious lifestyle. Consequently, it feels perfectly at home in a world-time watch. In 2026, digital tools do a better job of keeping us globally connected and synchronized. However, the...
Another Friday, another list. This week, we follow up on last week s list of the top five GMT-Master II alternatives with the best alternatives to the Explorer II. It s a logical step since the two models offer much of the same functionality. But they are inherently different watches in terms of presence and character. The GMT-Master tells the story of Pan Am s pioneering aviation history. The Explorer II story is much more niche, focusing on spelunking, or cave exploration. Despite that, the watch has become another defining timepiece in the brand s collection. But what if you are not a fan of the current Explorer II? We have created a list of our top five alternatives. Check it out.In l...
Three years ago, the Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Small Seconds timepiece won the GPHG 2023 Challenge Watch Prize. That was a bigger surprise to most watch fans than Audemars Piguet winning the Grand Prix for the Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4. Since that award-winning watch, many variations have debuted. And truth be told, they all share the same universal beauty and appeal of the RW model that surprised the world. Three new Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds watches featuring tuxedo dials will not stir things up as much as the first Millesime did three years ago. Still, the Millesime has become somewhat of a head-turner.The three New Raymond Weil Millesime Small Secon...
I have always thought of the IWC Portugieser as an elegantly styled chronograph or a clean time-only watch. Until today, that is, because the brand from Schaffhausen introduces an all-black Portugieser Chronograph in Ceratanium. Yes, please take a moment to let that sink in. Previously, the light, scratch-resistant Ceratanium material was used only in IWC s Pilot s Watch collection. However, you can now try to get your hands on one of the 1,500 new IWC Portugieser Chronographs in Ceratanium.I m not sure if the people at IWC read Lex s 2021 article on the Portugieser Chronograph. In it, he argued that the IWC Portugieser Chronograph is one of those boring but brilliant watches. Thanks to its ...
