It s that time of the week again - time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! This time, Jorg and Mike face off in a battle of vintage-inspired daily wearers. Jorg picked the Longines Ultra-Chron Classic, which honors the original Longines Ultra-Chron from 1967. Mike s pick is the King Seiko SJE089, which was inspired by the classic King Seiko KSK ref. 44-9990 from 1965. It s time to find out which of these two will come out on top!This week s Sunday Morning Showdown centers around the charm of 1960s-inspired daily wearers. The Longines Ultra-Chron Classic is a remake of the first Ultra-Chron from 1967. Longines kept its design close to the 1960s original in terms of presence. On top of that,...

He might not have been a watchmaker by training, but Raymond Weil (1926C2014) did start an eponymous watch brand. Remarkably, he did so at the age of 50 in 1976. The timing is defiant. Cheap quartz watches were already wreaking havoc on the Swiss watch industry, and a man in his 50s, especially back then, should have been starting to focus on his retirement, not thinking about launching a new business by himself. These facts are more than enough reason to ask, Who was Raymond Weil?Elie Bernheim welcomes me into his office, and as I expected, a guitar is standing in the corner behind him; its a Gibson SG, to be precise, a guitar closely linked to AC/DCs lead guitarist, Angus Young. Now, why d...

Recently, I bought an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M with a 43.5mm all-brushed steel case and a sandblasted gunmetal-gray dial. This purchase came after the launch of the fully revamped Planet Ocean. With the fourth generation s sharper facets, redesigned bracelet with polished center links, slimmer profile, and importantly, no helium escape valve (HEV) at the 10 o clock position, this should ve been my ideal watch. However, I stuck with the third generation, with a chunky 16.16mm case thickness and a secondary crown that serves no purpose beyond deep-sea diving bells. So let s dive into my reasons why.Late last year, Omega launched the new-look Planet Ocean in stainless steel to much fan...

At the beginning of every year, Audemars Piguet graces us with a series of novelties. Last year was a big one for Audemars Piguet, with the unveiling of some brilliant new releases to mark its 150th anniversary. Among them were the new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and the Royal Oak Chronograph. These two watches introduced revolutionary technological solutions spurred by intuitive usability. This makes us excited to see what Audemars Piguet will unveil as its early 2026 novelties. For now, let s look back at the top five Audemars Piguet highlights that came out in the past few years.Before we get into our list, let me give a quick word on Audemars Piguet s current offerings. As most of you k...

I had to drive from Amsterdam to Brussels in 2015 to see the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time with deadbeat seconds in the metal. It was worth it. Both the three-handed Geophysic True Second and Universal Time impressed me a lot, especially the travel watch with a world-map dial and a practical complication. Upon learning the price, I instantly cooled my desire. Still, the memory of the watchs sophisticated yet powerful appearance, its interesting movement with a Gyrolab balance wheel, and its solid-gold rotor lingered. Ten years after the watchs introduction and six years after its discontinuation, I got an offer I couldnt refuse.Watches bearing the Geophysic name seem to have ...

Our friends over at Monochrome are on a roll. Today, the team releases another watch in their line of Montres de Souscription. Introducing the Montre de Souscription 5, the Angelus Chronograph Tachymetre in steel with a golden dial.This latest offering comes quickly after the Montre de Souscription 4, which was a Habring2 with a dead-seconds complication. With that watch having sold out, expectations are naturally high for the fifth in line, the Angelus Chronograph Tachymetre. Monochrome and Angelus will release a maximum of 20 pieces, available for preorder over the coming 10 days. Lets have a closer look!The Monochrome Angelus Chronographe TachymetreIf you follow my writing, you may know...

Mention Pan Am to watch fans, and the first association that comes to mind is the iconic GMT-Master. It has become one of the watch world s most popular stories, always reflected in the classic travel watch with its red and blue Pepsi bezel. But apart from a watch created for Pan Am pilots to keep track of time in relevant places while traveling, there is far more to the airline s history. This inspired Christopher Ward to collaborate with Pan Am to tell one of its many stories. The Christopher Ward C60 Clipper GMT celebrates how Pan Am became the first commercial airline to operate jet-powered transatlantic service in 1958. This has resulted in a modern GMT watch with a healthy dose of vin...

Why do we choose analog watches in a digital world? It s a valid question, as these mechanical timekeepers (though still functional) are no longer the necessity they once were. Why, then, do they remain not just an obsession for the few but also relevant and ever-present objects in people s private lives and even pop culture? That s the subject we re grappling with in today s episode of Fratello Talks. Nacho, RJ, and Lex are in the studio, and they go through many of the reasons why, to them, watches are still relevant today. These range from distancing you from the digital overload of modern life to serving as long-lasting vessels for emotional significance and acting as accessories for exp...

Admittedly, we don t hear about Canada much when it comes to watches. That s a shame and perhaps slightly surprising, as it s a large country with a variety of landscapes. Plus, there s coastline and inland water to explore. This makes Montreal-based Heron a bit of an upstart. The brand began delivering watches in 2021, and its sophomore debut was the Marinor. After a brief hiatus, the diver is back with updated specs and colors.While larger, established watch brands are currently having a tough go, it seems that there s no stopping the progress at smaller independents. Indeed, every year, watches on the more affordable end of the spectrum offer more value at unbeatable prices. Today s Heron...

Working in this industry, I sometimes find it strange how I can go for so long without trying a watch that has been available for years. That s the case with the Maen Hudson diver. The Stockholm-based brand with Dutch roots first introduced the Hudson in 2018. The modern dive watch has evolved, and almost eight years later, we have arrived at the fifth iteration. With this new generation of the Hudson, Maen goes back to the beginning. The case was completely redesigned and the construction updated to reflect the original concept of the Maen Hudson. I had a chance to go hands-on with the new Hudson 38 MK5.A quick look reveals that the overall appearance of the Maen Hudson has not drastically ...

How do you feel about the combination of art and watches? The mix of the two is almost always polarizing. Quite often, an art-themed watch raises the question, Is it for me? A straightforward answer to that question comes in the form of a watch, the Louis Erard Monica Bonvicini Not For You. There you have it - case closed. But wait. Maybe were getting ahead of ourselves. Lets take a closer look at this strongly opinionated watch, limited to 178 pieces.For the 14th edition of Art Geneve, Louis Erard introduces its third artist-edition watch in collaboration with Monica Bonvicini. The watch is graphic, architectural, and even slightly provocative. It shows one of Bonvicinis emblematic sculpt...

Two years ago, Piaget reintroduced its iconic Polo watch. The Polo 79 in full 18K yellow gold was a very appropriate way to celebrate the maison s 150th anniversary. For those who thought that version was a bit too flashy, last year, Piaget introduced another variant in all 18K white gold. Now, if that one went a bit too far on the modesty scale, the new two-tone version Piaget introduced today might be more for you. This new Polo 79 is made of brushed 18K white gold with polished 18K yellow gold gadroons between the pieces. This emphasizes the Piaget Polo 79 s characteristic construction even better than the previous two versions.I remember when RJ came back from the presentation of the 18K...

Today, we go hands-on with a watch from one of my favorite small brands. Atelier Wen rarely misses a beat with its releases, and the new Millesime Perception Xuan is no exception. As we ll see, it uses a familiar platform but trades engraving for stoneworking. Plus, for those who struggle with the idea of a strictly limited edition, this watch will have an open ordering window.An Atelier Wen Perception has quietly been on my wish list for over a year. However, I ve struggled to narrow down my selection, as each successive release further adds to the temptation. It s easily the young brand s most recognizable and popular watch. Metals, including steel, tantalum, and titanium, have been featur...

It s been nearly a year since we ve heard from Chase Fancher and the team at Oak & Oscar. Here we are, though, in late January with an exciting, albeit highly limited, new release. Hopefully, the Humboldt ExP-02 foreshadows an increased level of in-house production capability. For now, let s take a look at the watch!I always like to mention that we ve followed the journey of Oak & Oscar and owner/founder Chase Fancher from the brand s beginning in 2015. Over time, different complications have joined the lineup with great success. A good example of this is last year s Atwood, which features a hand-wound chronograph movement. Today s Humboldt ExP-02 keeps things relatively simple withi...

We have come to know CIGA Design for its original takes on classic watches. In particular, the Blue Planet series has received much praise from critics and fans alike. Late last year, the brand treated us to its Everest Summit Central Tourbillon, the second iteration of CIGA Design s most ambitious release to date. For this new year, the brand introduces an entirely new model, the Time Cipher, featuring a novel case and dial design. But most importantly, the watch displays the time using a wandering hours display. It s time to find out more!Just one glance will tell you that the CIGA Design Time Cipher is a remarkable new creation from the Chinese brand. It s impossible to miss the wandering...

Although its 150th anniversary technically ended in 2025, Audemars Piguet inaugurates the Arc manufacture to celebrate the brands one-and-a-half-century existence. This 23,700m2 facility brings local production teams together under one roof, and it is a clear indication that AP is proud to be from the Vallee de Joux and wants the region to thrive and flourish for decades to come. The Arc has a design that has flexibility, efficiency, comfort, and sustainability in mind. Regarding the latter, the large building bears the Minergie-ECO label, which reflects APs long-term vision and philosophy.Before the Arc s official inauguration, Audemars Piguet staged the first round of novelties celebrating...

Welcome to another instalment of Back To Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to our lovely shared passion. This installment does not cover one specific theme. The aim is rather to provide novice watch enthusiasts with some broadly applicable tips and mindset advice. Where do you start? How do you start? What mistakes can we help you to avoid? That sort of good stuff!As always, I invite our seasoned readers to share their insights too. Lets make this a warm welcome for budding aficionados and save them from some of the pitfalls we fell into. Please share your tips in the comments section below!The novice-watch-enthusiast mindsetIf you re reading this, you have probably had a faint interest ...

This was the first time I had ever seen one of Qian GuoBiaos watches in real life. Id never seen one at watch shows, quickly behind glass, or even in a passing moment at a collector event. Ive long admired Master Qians watches through my laptop screen, but this encounter with his Split-Seconds Chronograph was truly my first time with his work in hand.That context matters. Master Qians watches are not pieces you can fully absorb at a glance. They demand time, curiosity, and a willingness to engage with the mechanics as much as the aesthetics. Seeing the Split-Seconds Chronograph in the metal and then wearing it immediately made it clear that this is a watch designed to be lived with, not just...

Sometimes you run into watches that are in a different category of appreciation. The moment I saw the inaugural Toledano & Chan B/1 with the lapis lazuli dial, it triggered my appreciation for design, not only in watches but also in general. The beautifully sculpted case, wonderfully detailed bracelet, and stunning lapis lazuli dial made for a creation that I appreciate as much more than a handsome watch, especially knowing that architecture inspired its design. With the new B/1.3r, the concept has only become more interesting. This new version of the watch comes in lightweight titanium, is slightly smaller, and features a dial made of solid 18K gold. I had a chance to find out more abou...

What a strange question. Why would the Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda, a new interpretation of the Swiss brands 50s Presidents Chronograph Heritage model, only be interesting for Real Madrid fans? Why wouldnt the socios of Atletico Madrid, Barcelona, or fans of other football clubs outside Spain want this retro-looking chronograph on the wrist? Perhaps it s because Andre Didisheim, the grandson of one of Vulcains founders, played for Madrid FC, which is now Real Madrid FC. In the early 20th century, Didixein, as he was known, played as an offensive midfielder, forging a lasting bond between the watch brand and the legendary football club. Now, even if youre not a Real fan or interested i...