New: The Louis Erard Monica Bonvicini Not For You LE

July 18, 2013

How do you feel about the combination of art and watches? The mix of the two is almost always polarizing. Quite often, an art-themed watch raises the question, Is it for me? A straightforward answer to that question comes in the form of a watch, the Louis Erard Monica Bonvicini Not For You. There you have it - case closed. But wait. Maybe were getting ahead of ourselves. Lets take a closer look at this strongly opinionated watch, limited to 178 pieces.For the 14th edition of Art Geneve, Louis Erard introduces its third artist-edition watch in collaboration with Monica Bonvicini. The watch is graphic, architectural, and even slightly provocative. It shows one of Bonvicinis emblematic sculptures adapted for the wrist. Its a rock-chic watch designed by an Italian-born, Berlin-based artist that might need a short introduction.The Louis Erard Monica Bonvicini Not For YouAs a watch fan, you might know that Louis Erard is a watchmaking brand founded in 1929. Even if you didn t remember the year of its establishment, you will certainly know that the house loves to collaborate, and Im sure you remember the pieces made with Alain Silberstein, Vianney Halter, and Konstantin Chaykin.Monica BonviciniMonica Bonvicini is an artist whose work explores architecture, power structures, gender dynamics, and space. Through architectural, text-based, and light sculptures, her provocative, darkly humorous, and politically charged work engages viewers. Like it or not, you will form an opinion on the work shes been internationally exhibiting since the early 1990s. Bonvicini has participated in major biennales and received numerous prestigious awards, including the Golden Lion at the Venice Biennale and the Oskar Kokoschka Prize. Now that you know who Bonvicini is, lets look at the watch she created with Louis Erard.Is it art?Things might become a little fuzzy, but were talking about an art watch, after all. Its a miniature sculpture. Usually, Bonvicinis sculptures dominate space. A watch only dominates a small, private one. Still, the 39mm timepiece provokes a thought. Not for you, it says loud and clear. Since its a limited edition of 178 pieces, thats true for most people. During the watch s presentation in Geneva, Bonvicini said the watch is not an elitist statement of ownership that mocks people who dont own one. The watch reminds you that time is ticking - although it doesnt have a hand showing the seconds ticking away - and not just for you, or maybe exactly for you. Still, were dealing with a limited-edition watch, so it is a rarity, much like a piece of art. Bonvicini won t go so far as to call the collaboration a piece of art; she prefers to call it an edition.The watch and its message are enigmatic. Bonvicini describes the watch, priced at CHF 3,990 before taxes, as a quiet act of resistance, defined by the exclusivity of thought rather than price. The number of pieces itself carries meaning: in Chinese culture, 178 can symbolize stronger together, a fitting counterpoint to the confrontational message the watch emanates.For him, her, and everyoneThe 39mm case fits most wrists, and to ensure it does, the watch comes with two strap sizes (S and standard). Although it might sit comfortably on the wrist, its look is unapologetically raw. Black and steel dominate the look, evoking a rock-like intensity that mirrors Bonvicinis visual language. The dial is matte black and textured with Clous de Paris guilloche, echoing the nails, leather, and industrial repetition found throughout Bonvicinis work. At its center, mirror-polished applique letters spell out a phrase that simultaneously leaves little and much to the imagination: not for you.Turn the watch over, and the statement not for you appears again. This time, it s in mirror-polished metal, joined by Louis Erard Monica Bonvicini and Limited Edition 1 of 178. The case back seals the idea: this is a collectors object, yes, but also a philosophical one.Tell me what you think of this mix of Swiss watchmaking and radical contemporary art that doesnt try to please but loves to provoke. Would you consider buying this as a watch or as a statement of art? Please let me know in the comments.Watch specifications Brand Louis Erard Model Louis Erard Monica Bonvicini Not For You Reference 34242AA02.BVAS28 Dial Matte black Clous de Paris guilloche base with a central black mirror-polished not for you applique, rhodium-plated hands Case Material Stainless steel with polished finishCase Dimensions 39mm (diameter) 45.9mm (lug-to-lug) 12.82mm (thickness)Crystal Domed sapphire with antireflective treatment on both sidesCase Back Stainless steel and sapphire crystal with not for you in mirror-polished metallic letters beneath the display Movement Sellita SW261-1 (elabore): automatic with manual winding, 28,800vph (4Hz) frequency, 38-hour power reserve, 31 jewels, open-worked rotor with black lacquered Louis Erard symbolWater Resistance 5 bar (50 meters)Strap Black Baranil calf leather (20/18 mm width, 65/105mm length) with matching stitching at the lugs, black grained calfskin lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, quick-release spring bars; supplied with an additional longer strap (80/115mm length)Functions Time only (hours and minutes)Price CHF 3,900 (ex. tax) Special Note(s) Limited edition of 178 pieces