Another Friday, another list. This week, we continue our series of lists highlighting the best releases of the first half of the year. In this specific article, we re focusing on our top five complicated watches. They all stand out because of their technical brilliance. But that brilliance would be for nothing if the watches didn t also look good and wear comfortably, so it s about more than just creating a technical masterpiece. Let s find out what our five picks are.Before we do that, though, as always, I should point out that this is merely a selection of five watches that impressed us. We have been bombarded with impressive releases in the first half of the year, which made it hard to ch...
In 2009, the German brand A. Lange & S?hne surprised the world with a mechanical digital watch based on a clock in an opera house in Dresden. A decade later, the watchmakers from Glashtte in Saxonia presented an even more digital version of that watch, the white gold Zeitwerk Date. Why was it more digital? That s because of the date ring in printed glass circling the dial, depicting the numerals 1 to 31. Now theres the A. Lange & S?hne Zeitwerk Date in pink gold with a gray dial. The choice of alloy combined with the slate-gray dial gives it a softer look, which is very welcome for a watch thats so strict and confronting. Allow me to explain what I mean by that.Before I explain my f...
When I think of CIGA Design, the first thing that immediately comes to mind is the brand s highly successful Blue Planet. The watch is not only instantly recognizable, but it has also won numerous prizes. Still, there is another side to the CIGA Design that is far more modern and futuristic. The new Z Series Hunter Automatic Skeleton fits the popular profile of brands like Richard Mille, Hublot, and Bianchet. However, the Hong Kong-based brand offers a similar aesthetic at a far more affordable price. Let s check out the new CIGA Design Z Series Hunter Automatic Skeleton.When I first opened the press kit, I was immediately intrigued. The great thing about these styles is that there is a grea...
Blancpain introduced the Tech line back in 2023 with the impressive Tech Gombessa. After that came the limited-edition Tech BOC (Blancpain Ocean Commitment) IV earlier this year. Now, we see a permanent addition to the lineup in the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech.The new model introduces a toolless quick-release mechanism to the Fifty Fathoms line. Blancpain introduces three strap options (two included with the watch) to mark the occasion. Join me for a first look!The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms TechYou can regard the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech as the regular-production version of the earlier Tech BOC IV model. It uses the same 45mm Grade 23 titanium case with its 14.1mm thickness and 300m d...
In recent times, TAG Heuer has done a great job of balancing modern-looking Monaco releases with others that tell the great racing stories from the past. By doing so, the brand caters to a varied audience. I lean heavily into the Monaco s historical side because that s where I find the romance of this classic. So when TAG Heuer unveiled the Monaco Chronograph Stopwatch influenced by the classic Heuer stopwatches from the 1960s and 70s, I was immediately excited. As you can imagine, I was more than happy to take it for a spin when offered the chance. Could it be the best TAG Heuer Monaco in the current catalog? By its looks alone, I would say so. Let s find out more.When I wrote the introduct...
The concept of a microbrand is not new per se. Small independent watch brands were plentiful in the pre-quartz times. However, the term as we know it today has only been around in the watch world for the last two decades. Contemporary microbrands are a different beast altogether, and though they come in many shapes and sizes, one thing is certain: they have established themselves as key players in the broader watch industry. On this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Daan discuss the role of microbrands today. It s more multifaceted than some might imagine, from being agile and fearless in embracing trends to providing a value-driven entry point for new watch collectors and influencin...
If David Candaux is a new name for you in watchmaking, you re probably not alone! I hadn t heard of him and his eponymous brand before March. Fortunately, Phillips held an event in London featuring a handful of up-and-coming Haute Horlogerie independents. It was there that I met David and saw several of his watches. Even at that time, we were waiting on the new DC7 Blue Hawk. After what seems like a lengthy period, the watch is ready!David Candaux is a relatively young person in his mid-40s, but he has an impressive background. After developing highly complicated watches for Jaeger-LeCoultre, he went on to work with several independent watch brands. In 2017, he founded his namesake company a...
According to the World Gold Council, 216,265 tonnes of gold have been mined throughout history. About 66% of that was mined after 1950! The Council also put this gigantic number in perspective by indicating that all the mined gold in the world would fit a cube measuring approximately 22 meters (73 feet) on each side. The WGC estimates that 45% of all mined gold went into jewelry, including watches.Holding a 7kg bar of gold in Chopard s gold foundryBuying gold watchesIn recent years, Ive advocated buying gold watches, not because of the ever-increasing gold prices but simply because I like the look and feel of a gold watch. Its a personal preference, which surely does not apply to every watch...
When the opportunity arose to tackle a Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025 feature, I jumped at the chance. My managing editor Nacho and I did have a chuckle, though. You see, here in Sydney, Australia, it is currently winter. Southern Hemisphere, represent!When the discussion first occurred to write this feature, I looked up the temperature in my hometown. It was sitting at 11 Celsius (51 Fahrenheit for the Americans among us). Sure, Sydney is famous for its wonderful beaches and beautiful harbor, but it s not just a beach paradise. Sydney is also a city that has true seasons.Image: Wikimedia CommonsFratello Summer Watch Picks of 2025: Henry s edition?Winter can be downright brutal here, wit...
You have already seen the beige Mojave Desert, white Lake Tahoe, green Woodland, dark blue Oceana, and Jet Black fly by. Now its time for another Top Gun-inspired color. The IWC Pilots Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar is a limited edition of 1,000 watches, each in a light blue ceramic case. The matte dial and rubber strap come in the same sky-blue hue and perfectly match the blue shirts that Top Gun instructors wear underneath their flight suits. Another new model is a non-limited Pilots Watch Chronograph 41, which has a steel case and comes with the same light blue dial and strap as the non-alloy version. You can consider this more rugged version the grounded, no (completely wrong termi...
It has been a while since we covered Unimatic, but that doesn t mean the Milanese brand hasn t been very active. On the contrary, Unimatic has recently released a few great collaborations. Among them were its first mechanical chronograph, created with Henry Singer, and a stellar blacked-out chronograph made in collaboration with US clothing brand Todd Snyder. Now Unimatic releases the new Diving Heritage collection, injecting its minimalist style with an abundance of vintage charm. It shows the great versatility of Unimatic s design. Let s find out more.The new Unimatic Diving Heritage collection consists of nine watches. It s essentially a trio of models in three colors. The first is the Mo...
When I wrote my Fratello EDC (Everyday Carry) article three years ago, I never expected it to be popular among readers. As it turns out, the Fratelli love to sneak a peek into our bags and pockets. So, by popular demand, we are back with another series about our everyday carry essentials, the stuff we dont leave the house without.A lot can change in three years, and that includes the stuff we carry around. In this sense, it is quite funny to revisit this article after a few years. I dont usually keep track of my EDC, so this offers me a chance to see what has changed. Lets dive in!Whats no longer part of my EDCLets start with the items I no longer carry. For starters, there is my Montblanc S...
Here is a quick, feel-good story that shows it s always important to take care of those around you! A good Samaritan in the United States posted a photo on Reddit with a watch, noting that it was a gift from his neighbor. The neighbor wanted to thank him for all his help. We ve withheld names to keep their identities private.I received this gift from my neighbor (82 years old). Its from 1996. What do you think its worth? the post on Reddit starts. Before long, there were over 500 comments. It turns out the watch is a 1990s gold Daytona ref. 16528. This means it had a 100m water resistance rating out of the factory and housed a Zenith El Primero caliber modified and tuned down to 28,800vph. ...
On July 21st, 1969,?the Apollo 11 crew turned the Omega Speedmaster Professional chronograph into the Moonwatch. It may have actually been one of the first nicknames that a wristwatch ever received. As a watch enthusiast, you ve probably heard the story of the Moonwatch a thousand times already. However, in case youre new to watches (or simply dont mind hearing it for the 1,001st time) read on for more on one of the greatest chronographs of all time.Omega Speedmaster 145.012-67 with caliber 321.Omega Speedmaster Professional MoonwatchThe Omega Speedmaster Professional did not become the Moonwatch purely by coincidence. Indeed, it was quite the opposite. One of the longest-running rumors in t...
Captain James Cook (1728C1779) was a British Royal Navy officer, explorer, and cartographer who made a name for himself with his three voyages of exploration to the Pacific and Southern Oceans between 1768 and 1779 - arduous and hazardous work. The watch named after him was launched in 1962. Since then, numerous models, ranging from technical to colorful, have come out under the Captain Cook flag. This summer, two new 39mm Rado Captain Cook versions debut, showing a new side of the Captain. The first Captain Cooks in this universal size have a black-to-turquoise or a light-blue-to-white dial, resulting in laid-back, holiday-type timepieces an exhausted explorer would wear for a few weeks off...
Even though it s only July, it feels like it s been summer for months here in the UK. It s been hot and dry, two descriptors rarely used here in Blighty. So, I ve had ample time to practice my summer watch game. So far, I ve been away from the pool, so the choices may seem strange. I ll do my best to explain.If you re a Fratello On Air listener, you may have caught the episode where Balazs and I discussed the idea of a summer watch. During the show, we strayed from the typical idea that a watch for this season must be a diver. Many people don t live near water or have access to a pool. Therefore, the concept of what makes a watch appropriate for this time of year requires an open mind. As I ...
Last month, I had the pleasure of attending various events during London Watch Week. Most of the sessions took place in Mayfair, including a day at a historic house that featured new watches. Andersen Geneve, along with the brand s CEO, Pierre-Alexandre Aeschlimann, occupied a small booth. It was here that we noticed the standout from the day s festivities. The Communication 45 is a beautifully crafted anniversary piece.In 1990, Andersen Geneve launched the Communication 24 after watchmaker Svend Andersen developed it. Interestingly, there was a lack of worldtimers in the marketplace after the 1966 death of Louis Cottier, who many regard as the father of the complication. Brands such as Pate...
Another week, another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we pit two mid-segment dive watches against each other. Although-mid-segment? Both brands have crept up in price, putting us in the $6,000C7,500 bracket today. Is that still mid-segment? Whatever you wish to call it, these are two very different watches doing very similar things at a similar price point. Thats all we need to shove them into the ring together!Daan will defend the new orange-accented Omega Seamaster Diver 300M s honor, while Thomas will back the Tudor Pelagos Ultra. I want a clean fight, boys. Okay, lets go!But first, last weeks resultsLast week, Daan and Mike pitted the popular Tissot PRX against the Tissot PRC 100. We...
Open-worked high-end watches aren t uncommon. In fact, at a certain level of exclusivity, they re rather typical. Yet, when I opened my messages the other day, a head-turning piece was staring back at me. The new Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort is a unique-looking object because of its simplicity and finishing.Yes, I shot a note to Nacho requesting to write about the new Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort. For some reason, the watch struck a chord with me, and that s not a guarantee with a skeletonized or open-worked piece. Rather than continuing to gush about it, let s examine what makes this watch so appealing.The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel MaillechortThis latest Uly...
Heres a watch that pays homage not to a shark but?the shark. And thats why we re gonna need a bigger boat. I was too young to see the now-iconic Steven Spielberg movie Jaws when it came out five decades ago, but when I did a few years after its initial release, it scared me. Although there are no great white sharks in the North Sea, taking a dip felt risky for many years to come. I got over it. Once I grew older, I watched the movie many times, and it even made it into my top 10 favorite movies ever - the actors are phenomenal, and so are their very quotable lines. So, I saw and survived the movie. I even read Peter Benchleys 1974 novel, but do I dare put a Seiko Prospex Jaws 50th Anniversar...
