Unimatic Unveils Its New Diving Heritage Series

April 13, 2020

It has been a while since we covered Unimatic, but that doesn t mean the Milanese brand hasn t been very active. On the contrary, Unimatic has recently released a few great collaborations. Among them were its first mechanical chronograph, created with Henry Singer, and a stellar blacked-out chronograph made in collaboration with US clothing brand Todd Snyder. Now Unimatic releases the new Diving Heritage collection, injecting its minimalist style with an abundance of vintage charm. It shows the great versatility of Unimatic s design. Let s find out more.The new Unimatic Diving Heritage collection consists of nine watches. It s essentially a trio of models in three colors. The first is the Modello Uno Heritage Diver, the second is the Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver, and lastly, there is the Modello Tre Heritage Chronograph Diver. All three models will be available in matte black, tropical brown, or vintage navy. As the series is part of the brand s Limited Editions, each of the nine references will be available in a limited run of 300 individually numbered watches.The different Unimatic Diving Heritage modelsWe ll go over each of the three base models in a minute. First, though, let s highlight what they have in common. All nine watches have a 40mm case, a 41.5mm bezel, and a 300m depth rating. However, here are differences between the cases of the Modello Uno and the Modello Tre. The Modello Uno and Modello Uno GMT both have a 13.2mm profile (excluding the crystal) and a 49mm lug-to-lug. The Modello Tre, however, is a bit slimmer and longer, with a 12.9mm case thickness and 51.2mm length.The three Modello Uno references are the U1-DHB (black), U1-DHBR (brown), and U1-DHN (navy). All feature a black aluminum bezel insert with a 60-minute diving scale executed in a nice cream color.It matches the creamy Old Radium Super-LumiNova on the dial and hands and provides a nice contrast to the base dial colors. Out of the three dials, the tropical brown one has the strongest vintage vibes.Second would be the navy version, which I love because the saturated blue looks fantastic with the vintage-tone lume and white details on the dial. The matte black version somehow feels the least vintage, something that many watch fans will love.Japanese Seiko movements for all three modelsInside the case of the Modello Uno, you will find the Seiko NH35A caliber. It s the go-to movement for Unimatic s most affordable Modello Uno references. The movement operates at 21,600vph, has 24 jewels, and offers a 41-hour power reserve. It has proven to be reliable and offers a modest accuracy of -20/+40 seconds per day. I have several watches powered by an NH35A, including a few Unimatics, and the movement has never failed to impress me in terms of reliability.That s why it makes sense that Unimatic chooses the GMT variant of the same caliber to power the three Modello Uno GMT models for this series. It has the same set of specs, including a 21,600vph operation frequency and a 42-hour power reserve. In terms of design, the three Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver variants follow the aesthetic of the three-hand Modello Uno Heritage Divers. The first reference is the U1-GMT-DHB (black), the second is the U1-GMT-DHBR (brown), and lastly, there is the U1-GMT-DHN (navy).The Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver modelsThe biggest difference between the regular divers and the GMT versions is, of course, the 24-hour bezel inserts and the extra hand to indicate the time in the second time zone. As a result, the overall design is slightly busier. As a fan of GMTs, I am most interested in how the Unimatic design works with the added functionality. What stands out most to me is that the custom typography on the bezel is more noticeable than on the three-hand diver. I love how it strikes the right balance to fit the retro design without feeling vintage or dated.Just like the three divers, the GMTs come equipped with TPU straps that taper down nicely from 22mm at the case to 20mm at the stainless steel pin buckle. The strap colors match the dials and finish the look in style. From experience, I know that the straps are flexible, comfortable, and heavy-duty enough to balance the watches perfectly on the wrist.The Unimatic Modello Tre Heritage Chronograph DiverThe last watches in the series are a trio of Modello Tre chronographs. As mentioned, these models have a slightly different case. It still measures 40mm in diameter and 41.5mm across the bezel, but is 2.2mm longer (51.2mm) and 0.3mm thinner (12.9mm). Unimatic uses the Seiko VK64A meca-quartz caliber inside. This battery-powered movement has an accuracy of 20 seconds per month and provides a roughly three-year battery life. In terms of design, the dial of the Modello Tre is different, of course. It still features the same color combinations, but it has a 60-minute chronograph counter at 9 o clock. The large pushers on the right side start, stop, and reset the chronograph. I have yet to wear or own a Unimatic chronograph. I like the design quite a lot and would love to find out more. Recently, the brand also collaborated with Canadian luxury retailer Henry Singer on its first mechanical chronograph. That brilliant Modello Tre U3S-HS has two sub-dials and looks stunning. My favorite from the Modello Tre series is still the super-stylish U3-U that Unimatic did with Uncrate.Final thoughts on the new Unimatic Diving Heritage seriesMentioning the Modello Tre U3-U and comparing it with the new Diving Heritage collection is also a good way to show the incredible diversity that is possible with the design canvas Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato created when they started Unimatic.As I ve said before, I love how the two men devised a platform that allows for super-stylish minimalist designs as well as elegant vintage-inspired models. The nine new references fit that last bill perfectly. By simply choosing the right colors and using a vintage-inspired lume color, Unimatic has completely changed the watches appearance.I love these nine new models and can t wait to discover more in a hands-on review. My Unimatic watches of choice are predominantly the modern-looking minimalist versions, so it will be interesting to see how these new designs compare to the models I have.For now, I think that the brand has created a series of nine new references that will quickly find their way to fans. The Modello Uno Heritage Divers are available for $625 + VAT, the Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver versions cost $750 + VAT, and the Heritage Chronograph Divers are also $625 + VAT. Those are in line with the prices we know from Unimatic. I can t wait to take one or a few of the new models for a spin to see what they re all about. If they re even half as good as I think they are, the new Diving Heritage collection will be another hit.Watch specifications Brand Unimatic Model Modello Uno Heritage Diver, Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver, Modello Tre Heritage Chronograph DiverReference Modello Uno Heritage Diver: U1-DHB, U1-DHBR, U1-DHN / Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver: U1-GMT-DHB, U1-GMT-DHBR, U1-GMT-DHN / Modello Tre Heritage Chronograph Diver: U3-DHB, U3-DHBR, U3-DHNDial Matte black, Tropical brown, or Vintage navy with Old Radium Super-LumiNova indexes (and 60-minute sub-dial for U3-DHB, U3-DHBR, U3-DHN)Case Material Stainless steel with black aluminum bezel insertCase Dimensions Modello Uno Heritage (GMT) Diver: 41.5mm (bezel diameter) 49mm (lug-to-lug) 13.2mm (thickness ex. crystal) / Modello Tre: 41.5mm (bezel diameter) 51.2mm (lug-to-lug) 12.9mm (thickness ex. crystal)Crystal Sapphire Case Back Stainless steel, screw-in Movement Modello Uno Heritage Diver: Seiko NH35A - automatic with manual winding and hacking, 21,600vph frequency, 41-hour power reserve, 24 jewels / Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver: Seiko NH34A - automatic with manual winding and hacking, 21,600vph frequency, 41-hour power reserve, 24 jewels / Modello Tre Heritage Chronograph Diver: Seiko VK64A - meca-quartz caliber with three-year battery lifeWater Resistance 300 metersStrap Black, navy, or brown quick-release two-piece TPU (22/20mm) with stainless steel pin buckleFunctions Modello Uno Heritage Diver: Time (hours, minutes, seconds), 60-minute dive bezel / Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver: Main time (hours, minutes, seconds) and caller-style GMT (independently adjustable 24-hour hand, 24-hour bezel) / Modello Tre Heritage Chronograph Diver: Time (hours, minutes), chronograph (60-minute register, central seconds), 60-minute dive bezelPrice Modello Uno Heritage Diver and Modello Tre Heritage Chronograph Diver: $650 + VAT / Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver: $750 + VAT Special Note(s) All nine references are limited to 300 pieces and individually numbered