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The Grand Seiko Collection Why I Did Not Include Them (Several Times)

When I think of Seiko, I think of all the people who couldn t care less about watches and bought a Seiko just because of that. It tells time, and it does it cheap. Now, I know that this is not true in all cases. There are plenty of nice Seikos that I really like, but I (almost) never include them in articles. Actually, last few weeks I got a few mails (including hate-mails) from people wondering why I didn t include Seiko watches in my buying guide articles over at Motoring Exposure (click here for the articles).Picture by Stefan Molle WatchMy long time blog friend (a.k.a The Seiko Champion) Harry Bishop also wondered why I didn t include a Seiko timepiece in my 1000 – 2000 USD buying ...

Fratellos Guide To Omega Speedmaster Watches

Are you looking to buy an Omega Speedmaster but don t know where to start? We re here to help! Over the past 65+ years, Omega has created many variations of one of the world s most famous chronographs. The classic 42mm Moonwatch has been in the collection since 1965, and to the novice eye, little has changed since then. But if you look a bit closer, you will find that the Speedmaster evolved quite a bit in the decades that followed.In this Speedmaster guide, we ll give you an overview of the most important references of the Speedmaster (Professional) and some of its variations. Although this article isn t meant as a pricing guide, we will give some hints, of course. If you re already a knowl...

Ueber Bargain Found for 3200 Euro

If I didn t already have one, I would seriously consider this IWC Ingenieur 3227-01 that is for sale over at Horloge Platform Nederland. This discontinued model was only in production for a short time, 2005 – 2008. IWC introduced this new Ingenieur model in 2005, to be a worthy successor of the original IWC Ingenieur SL model as designed by Gerald Genta in 1976/1977. Last year, I wrote an article on Genta s classics and their current versions here on Fratellowatches (click here to read the article) and although I concluded that this revised Ingenieur is only influenced by its original design (unlike the almost unchanged Patek Philippe Nautilus or Audemars Piguet Royal Oak), it is still...

Orient CFH01001B Review: A Lot Of Bang For The Buck?

When I started buying mechanical watches about 10-11 years ago, there wasn t much on the market (new) that I could afford. Last few years, this has changed drastically. One of the brands that offers mechanical watches for a decent price (for starters in collecting mechanical watches for example) is Orient. Orient is a Japanese watch company that exists for over 50 years and has a production run of 2 million watches per year. They are promoting themselves heavily on the web and are now also available in the US and Europe! Actually, before I got this Orient CFH01001B from OrientWatchUSA to give my opinion, I didn t even know that a jeweller in my neighbourhood (I think it s only 75 meters from...

U-Boat U-51 Rattrapante Complicated Watch An Amplified Masterpiece

Italo Fontana has very well figured out how to design big watches. U-Boat watches are between 45mm and 55mm in diameter and even reach 65mm in the particular case of the U-1942. One thing that has not been associated much with these gargantuan timepieces, however, are complications. Showing that they are at the height of more traditional watchmakers to produced complicated watches, U-Boat released the U-51 Rattrappante complicated model.With a complex system of levers, springs, and pinions, the rattrapante or split-second chronograph movement is one of horology s finest mechanisms. Its function is to allow the user to mark a time measurement without stopping the ongoing timer. This is done b...

Review Omega Seamaster Professional PloProf 1200m

Introduced during BaselWorld 2009, the Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200m (ref. 224.30.55.21.01.001) is slowly hitting the stores and becomes available for the large public. This remake of the original Omega Seamaster Professional 600m/2000ft that was introduced in 1971 (after 4 years of extensive test work) is – in my humble opinion – one of the best that Omega did so far. Remakes are dangerous, collectors are most of the time insulted by them because there is only little left of the original details, and buyers of modern watches often don t get all the fuzz and don t like the old-fashioned design. This Ploprof 1200m is probably pleasing both groups.The Seamaster PloProf, with its im...

A Closer Look at a Bell Ross Classic: the Vintage 123

When thinking of Bell & Ross many relate the company to the popular and conspicuous designs of the BR Instruments. It is pretty obvious that these square watches were responsible for exploding the manufacturer s popularity, but Bell & Ross was very active even before the BR timepieces existed. Bell & Ross had built a solid collection of more traditional watches, of which one of the best sellers was the Vintage 123. The Vintage 123, attracted many watch enthusiasts thanks to its palpable high quality, simple and clean design, and great value. These are all reasons why it is still in demand today.Presently the Vintage 123 is attracting many clients, albeit different from those who ...

The Sophisticated Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Moon

Unfortunately, a 37mm looks kind of silly on my 7.5″ wrist. Otherwise, a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Moon like Rob s (friend of the show since 2004) would be a perfect timepiece for formal occasions. Although Jaeger-LeCoultre seems to have entered a different route to approach its clients since a while, with big bulky watches or with high-tech materials, this Master Moon with a diameter of 37mm and a height of just 10mm is a true classic that at least will look good on you in a few decades from now. Will the Compressor watches do to? I think not.For around 3000 Euro, you should be able to find a nice Master Moon (young occasion) in good condition, complete with box and papers. Make sure th...

Dream Watch Alert! AP Royal Oak Equation of Time 26603ST

As you probably noticed already, the SIHH 2010 expo results in a lot of new and impressive timepieces by numerous manufacturers. Unfortunately, I could not make it to the SIHH and GTE myself this year, but at least I am able to track all new releases via WatchUseek, Perpetuelle, TimeZone and WorldTempus.Audemars Piguet is also exhibitor at the SIHH in Geneva and was actually the first brand that I kept an eye on, since I ve seem to be bitten by the AP bug. The ‘regular Royal Oak timepieces suits me best and not the Offshore models. These are too bulky for me and I am not too sure about all the exotic materials AP uses for these watches. This year, I am lucky, because Audemars Piguet i...

SIHH2010: Ralph Lauren Slim Classique

Last year, during SIHH2009, Ralph Lauren introduced a line of watches that definitely can be considered haute horlogerie. Some of the Ralph Lauren boutiques carried vintage watches (by , Patek Philippe etc) for quite some years now, but now they have their own impressive line-up.This year, Ralph Lauren introduces the Slim Classique Collection. So if you think that Ralph Lauren is fashion only, think again.The Slim Classique is a 42mm diameter timepiece and only 5.35mm thick. Last week, I blogged about the thinness factor over at Vacheron Constantin with their Ultra-Fine watches but it seems that more brands follow this trend this year at SIHH (Salon International de Haute Horlogerie) in Gene...

A Decent Watch Under 1000 USD- Check Motoring Exposure!

Yesterday, I published an article on MotoringExposure about buying watches under 1000 USD. There are a lot of offers, but which one satisfies the watchfreak?Browsing the internet and going through several annual catalogues, I came up with the Glycine Incursore ‘Black Jack , the Sinn 656 and the Tissot PRS516 Automatic Chronograph. All three very different watches, but are all ‘serious timepieces under 1000 USD and follow my own 5 defined rules for this quest:1. It should be a (respected) Swiss or German brand2. A mechanical movement (Swiss/German origin), ETA2824 or ETA6498 for example3. No plastic parts on the outside (excludes Swatch for example)4. Stainless steel casing5. Sap...

MBFs Horological Machine No2-SV (Sapphire Vision)

Today, MB&F unveiled the Horological Machine No2-SV (Sapphire Vision) according to plan. Since early 2008, I am following Maximilian Busser and Friends with great interest and have reported several times on their extreme cool creations. My personal favorites are MB&F s (including Sage Vaughn) HM2 contribution to the Monaco Only Watch event and the recently introduced HM 2.2 BlackBox model that MB&F created together with Alain Silberstein.On the 6th of January, MB&F announced the upcoming introduction of a 25 piece only HM2, which is today, on January 12th of 2010. The HM2 SV edition gives away part of the secrets and inner workings of their Horological Machine Number 2 by usi...

SIHH2010: Vacheron Constantin Historique Ultra-Fine 1955 and 1968

The SIHH 2010 will be held from the 18th of January till the 22nd of January 2010. During this show, Vacheron Constantin will be presenting their new Historique Ultra-Fine 1955 and 1968 time pieces. In today s world of horology, it seems that watches can t be bulky enough while a few decades ago, it showed true craftsmanship when a time piece was as flat as possible. Since a year or so, I noticed that there is quite a number of fellow watch collectors and aficionados that is akin to reduce diameter sizes and heights. Vacheron Constantin is the brand they ll need to take to look at in 2010, with their Historique Ultra-Fine timepieces.In the 1950s and 1960s, Vacheron Constantin introduced the ...

BaselWorld 2010: Maurice Lacroixs Novelties Revealed

The days of Maurice Lacroix being an entry level brand is long gone (click here), especially since the introduction of the Masterpiece collection. During BaselWorld 2010, that is going to be held from March 18 till March 25, Maurice Lacroix will be introducing a number of interesting models.Most interesting are the two different Phases de Lune timepieces, since a moon phase is a complication that speaks to everyone s imagination. The Phases de Lune are from different Maurice Lacroix collections, namely that of the Pontos and the Les Classiques.First, the Les Classiques Phases de Lune Automatique. A classic shaped moonphase timepiece, with a day and month indicator near 12 o clock, and a very...

Submariner 116613 versus 16613

In April 2009, just after I returned from BaselWorld 2009, I temporarily switched my Yacht-Master 16622 with a friend s Submariner 16613.Although I really had to get used to all that gold on this Submariner, the watch was definitely an eye-catcher and felt right in terms of weight, size and looks. The blue dial was amazing, espcially during daylight.Since BaselWorld 2009, introduced the new stainless steel/gold Submariner 116613. Using their new style case, like the GMT-Master IIc 116710LN and the earlier introduced white gold Submariner 116619, it is evident that this is s way forward. It seems that listened to a lot of customers, and is firing their innovations to us in up-tempo. brin...

Speedmaster Professional 40th Anniversary LE

Alon Ben-Joseph of AceJewelers.com – friend of the show – did a very nice video review on last year s introduced Omega Speedmaster Professional 40th Anniversary Limited Edition.I love this version of the Omega Speedmaster Professional. The logo on the dial and special case back make it worth buying over most other limited edition Speedmaster Professional models. I have seriously considered buying this watch after it was presented during Baselworld 2009, but since I have had a few of these Speedies and cherishing my Speedmaster Professional pre-Moon caliber 321 the most anyway, I went for something completely differentEnjoy the video and don t forget to give some feedback on it!...

Gronefeld GMT06 Tourbillon Minute Repeater

As an avid reader of the FratelloWatches blog you probably know that I write for some other websites and magazines as well. MotoringExposure.com is one of them, every wednesday they publish the ‘Wednesday Watch -article. Today, the Wednesday Watch is about the Gr?nefeld GTM-06 Tourbillon Minute Repeater. I have written this article with a bit of pride, since the Gr?nefeld brothers are Dutch AND are located in the same area as where I am originally from.Above you see Bart Gr?nefeld (right) and myself during the opening of the Gr?nefeld Exclusive Timepieces Boutique in Oldenzaal. Besides creating their own time pieces, they now have a boutique for other independent watchmakers (McGonigle...

TAG Heuer and Tiger Woods- and Elin Nordegren

Tiger Woods, a golf pro hero that sees his career end-up in pieces in just a few weeks, only because he doesn t live up to the high standard of being a role model for every kid in the US who wants to achieve something. Who cares what he does in his private life? He didn t kill anyone, didn t steal.. The hypocrisy of the ones who judge and dropped him is unbelievable imho. I think golf pro Nick Faldo had the same sort of problems in the past (early 1980s) and he recovered quite okay-ish. Anyway, just like his sponsor TAG Heuer, Tiger saw his name/image going down rather quickly due to some bad Public Relations/Communication.I hope that TAG Heuer at least has the decency not to drop him like s...

TAG Heuers new 100% in-house designed caliber 1887... OUCH!

Pioneering Swiss watchmaking for 150 years. According to the official TAG Heuer website that is, because there is some discussion around the ‘pioneering part. Their latest in-house manufactured caliber 1887 movement seems to be based on a Seiko movement. Nothing necessarily wrong with that,???? however, TAG Heuer s press release stated that this caliber 1887 is a ‘designed 100% in-house movement. Even according to TAG Heuer s CEO J. Babin, it is clearly not designed in-house, as the CEO himself is posting messages on several TAG Heuer forums to give an explanation to all TAG Heuer fans. His post on WatchUseek starts like this: Hi, I m J.C. Babin the CEO of TAG Heuer, and YES, t...

DaLuca Panerai Watch Straps

Part of being a Paneristi is to collect nice and special watch straps. I have written about straps made from vintage ammo pouches and one – not for Panerai in this case – made from the leather interior of a Mercedes SLR 300 (1956) formerly owned by Jean Todt.Last week, I received an e-mail about DaLuca s Panerai Straps. The owner, Daniel Luczak, creates one-off straps for Panerai watches made out of ammo pouches and other vintage leather used for (mostly) military purposes. Each strap is individually named and will never be duplicated.On PaneraiSource.com, you ll find a well written and documented review of DaLuca straps. As I wrote some time ago, these kind of straps and intiati...