Audemars Piguet celebrates 50 years of the Royal Oak this year, and today is the official date of the anniversary. To mark half a century of one of the most iconic watches - a true masterpiece of Genta design - AP has launched a number of new models. Here at Fratello, we were lucky enough to get to see them, and even have a little bit of time to wear, shoot, and get a feeling for these watches. Personally, my highlight was the 41mm version of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph (ref. 26240OR.OO.1320OR.01) in rose gold with a blue dial. Sure, theres a 38mm model available. But there was something simply magical about the slightly larger version that caught my eye and had me googling the bla...
Dear Fratelli, how do you set your watch down overnight? Do you put it in a watch box? Do you put it on a stand? Is it on some kind of table? Or do you simply keep it on while sleeping? Of course, there are many ways to put your watch to sleep at night. As such, before I choose my new watch-storage solution, I wanted to know how my watches would be affected by different storage methods. We ll go through a few of those effects below.Now, this hasn t been a real-life scientific study of everything that can happen to your watches while storing them overnight. Rather, it s been primarily an online search of what people have to say on different aspects of the topic. I must say, I was surprised at...
Do I need the new AP Royal Oak Jumbo? Well, the watch is an essential part of horological history. And the new iteration that celebrates fifty years of the Royal Oak sure is a stunner. But, if Im honest, the one watch that impressed me the most of all the 50th Anniversary models this year was the reference 15550ST.OO.1356ST.04. It s the delightful, light blue, 37mm Royal Oak Selfwinding. And it s the watch that tells me there s more to the Royal Oak than the Jumbo.Never judge a book by its cover, and never judge a watch by its dial. Right? Well, actually, if its a coffee-table book, the photographic qualities of the cover are quite relevant. And how can you not judge a watch by its dial? The...
After a successful launch in 2021, BOLDR brings back the Odyssey Regatta in a new colorway. The dial in Admiral blue perfectly sets the tone for this nautically themed timepiece. Though regatta timers are not the most common of watches these days, it is still a fun take on the chronograph and one that all you seafaring watch fanatics will be happy to see, especially at a reasonably affordable price point. BOLDR didnt take the creation of this model lightly. Instead, the brand consulted with a number of experts to validate its design. They include Mathias Hbner (a vintage watch expert & collector from Germany), Mark Reichardt (a Netherlands-based collector & founder of regatta-yachtt...
Exactly 50 years ago today in Basel, Switzerland, Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak. You can read the background on the original Royal Oak 5402 here, as well as all models that succeeded it up till todays Royal Oak Jumbo 16202.What better way to celebrate an anniversary with a very special watch? Meet the Royal Oak 16202 in pink gold, also known as the 16202OR.OO.1240OR.01. We already announced this new reference last January as the worthy successor of the 15202 in rose gold. But for this special occasion, we go hands-on with this beauty from Audemars Piguet.Royal Oak Jumbo 16202This 39mm Royal Oak Jumbo, or Extra-Thin, marks the 50th anniversary of the icon designed by Gerald Genta. ...
The illustrious psychoanalyst Sigmund Freud (1856C1939) once wrote that icons are symbolic condensations. He stated that condensation - Verdichtung in German - occurs when a single idea (an image, memory, or thought) or dream object stands for several associations and ideas. Could that also apply to physical objects? You could state that the GMT-Master II is an icon. An icon of watchmaking that visualizes luxury, wealth, status, and so on. The worlds most famous travel watch creates iconic consciousness because it creates social value. Thats a big achievement for such a small object. But what happens when something so recognizable, so important, and so meaningful is changed dramatically? It ...
Thank you to everyone who bought (and those who patiently tried to buy) the recent Aubergine Limited Edition from Studio Underd0g and Fratello, created together in the name of charity. All of the profits from this hilarious and heartwarming project will be donated to Cancer Research UK to help fund the fight against testicular cancer, a disease that has touched and will touch many of our lives.Charity projects elicit a lot of emotions in people. It s understandable, of course. The causes these charities support hit all too close to home for many of us. I m sure most of us know someone lost to or personally affected by cancer. It s a brutal, uncompromising disease that ends and ruins lives in...
Saying this watch is a keeper is an understatement. The Avia Ajustor, with its witty balance spring micro-regulation system, has real museum potential if you ask me. This tiny ray of sunshine proves (once again!) that you can go super-low budget to score an unusual piece that hides genuine watchmaking spirit.When I spotted a crazy Sperina Regulator a few years ago, I had no idea this stunt acquisition would evolve into an entirely new category of vintage watches in my collection. The idea behind self-regulators - watches that allowed external regulation of the balance spring - was to let the owner fine-tune the precision of the watch movement.No watchmaker neededHistorically, mechanical watc...
Distressed vintage straps are cool, whether you fit them onto a dive watch, a sports watch, or, as in my case, a military field watch. The Serica 4512 is a broad-lugged, tough little nugget of a watch, and it comes on the delicate Bonklip bracelet. While flimsy in appearance, it is very comfortable and a retro-perfect fit for the watch. That said, I do love a nice strap on a field watch.Distressed or antiqued straps can be very hit or miss, so why not make your own? This can be as elaborate or as simple a process as you want, and if you do it right, youll have a super cool bespoke result. The Serica 4512, with its no-nonsense tool approach and domed sapphire crystal, is already fitted onto a...
You would think that Yema would make a lot of noise when it s about to release a diver with a 300m depth rating, a helium escape valve, and in-house movement for less than $1,000! Well, I would, I can tell you that. And yet, the new Meangraf Sous-Marine really snuck up on me.I have to say that the release of the Yema Meangraf Sous-Marine Y60 was a surprise. First of all, it was not distributed via the usual channels. It reached me initially as an offer tailored for Yema Privilege members. Luckily, I just happen to be one.First impressionSince developing a childhood fascination with everything branded Citro?n, I have considered French people special. Their genuine creativity was always so dar...
Its no secret that I am not the biggest fan of watches or what the brand has come to represent. Still, what I didnt get was why anyone in their right mind would completely rebuild a brand-new to their own spec. Surely, such a thing is sacrilegious, no? Rusty by Artisans de Geneve, however, is so good that it has the power to turn even the staunchest advocate of pure originality to the dark side.Artisans de Geneve s Shades of Blue project from 2021 made me desire a Daytona for the first time. It also opened my eyes to the world of customization. But we re not talking gem-set bezels and bussed-down bracelets here. No, this was customization with a difference and a sharp eye for detail and vi...
Here at Fratello, we are always happy to express our honest opinions on watches and watch brands, even though they can often differ. You probably read Lexs opinion on the Tudor Black Bay Pro yesterday. As he hinted at in the article, we didnt all agree. Though our thoughts on the watch itself align, we disagreed on the dilemma of its inspiration. And therein lies the beauty of watch enthusiasm. There are as many opinions as there are watches. Personally, the historical baggage that the Black Bay Pro carries doesnt bother me one bit. In fact, as a young collector with an appreciation for vintage watches, seeing a Freccione-inspired design make it back at an attainable price point is more than...
I m thoroughly sick of all the chatter we hear from start-up brands about how they are going to turn the established order on its head. How they are going to disrupt the luxury industry. Or even worse, how their product deserves attention for its uniqueness despite being composed of off-the-shelf parts from a forgotten corner of some fly-by-night factory in the arse-end of the Chinese badlands. Thankfully, for every 1,000 chancers, one good brand emerges. Say hello to Straum and its stunning debut model, the Opphav.Since the debut effort from Straum first popped up on my Instagram feed, I ve grown quite close to the guys behind the project. Lasse and ?ystein are earnest, passionate, sideways...
Last November, Dave and I headed north to the Swedish Space Corporation s Arctic Circle base, Esrange. There, we rendezvoused with the team from Fortis. The brand s goal? To launch 13 watch movements into the stratosphere to determine precisely what conditions those watches would meet as they came close to slipping Earth s grasp entirely.Everyone knows that?the space watch is the Omega Speedmaster, right? Famously, Omega s stalwart racing chronograph performed best in all the tests to which NASA subjected the watches submitted to it for analysis. However, although the fabled Speedy performed best, it didn t actually?pass all of those tests.This video is blocked because you did not accept mar...
As watch journalists, we do our fair share of writing about watches. In fact, its almost all we do. And though some would say that watch journalism is dead, here at Fratello, we feel that it s alive and well. And thats largely due to you, the Fratelli. It takes people who are interested in reading our work to keep us going. From quick reviews of new watches to detailed buying guides, or even deep dives into brand histories, we try to cover all the bases here. For us, its an expression of our interest and passion for watches. We are very lucky to get to express our views and opinions to such a receptive audience. And the ultimate expression of watch enthusiasm would be to use ones acquired kn...
Norqain was tipped as one to watch when it first emerged. That kind of attention usually attracts both fans and skeptics. This family-owned independent brand has grown by leaps and bounds since its founding in 2018, demonstrating all the promising signs. I know from my own experience that establishing an independent watch company is no mean feat, even in the best of times - no matter how deep a pocket and how many insider connections one has. Any upstarts that could turn fully-fledged in such a short space of time, in the face of the pandemic, deserve respect. Would you have the guts and dexterity to pull it off?One way to make it happen would be if one has something special to offer. Norqai...
When you re not spending your own money, or, in this case, spending money that doesn t exist, you re less inhibited by the value of the cash. If I had $10,000 to splurge, I would firmly have one eye on trying to have some money left over. However, in this case, I am ready to spend, spend, spend! So, with this fictitious $10,000 burning a heavy hole in my pocket, what three watches would I buy to create one wholesome watch collection?It s always quite a fun game to play, spending money you don t have. I find myself doing so regularly, and not just on watches. I enjoy browsing the seven-figure property market from time to time. There s me, counting the pennies in my piggy bank while questionin...
Do you think Tudor is cool? Well, personally I m starting to doubt it. Tudor wanted to make me believe its a cool brand, and for quite some time, it succeeded. But now, with the introduction of the Black Bay Pro, it feels that Tudor finally shows its real face once more. The new GMT watch, which looks so very much like the coveted Explorer II 1655 Freccione, marks a return to Tudors old self. Whereas a Black Bay Fifty-Eight in navy blue, for example, gives you the feeling youre looking at an original design, the Black Bay Pro represents a different reality. Yes, though your watch might look like a , it is, in fact, a Tudor - a more affordable version. Is Tudor again offering a sort of poor ...
It s been a little under a year since Dave wrote about the Bamford Revolution GMT Joe Cool Limited Edition. In the article, Dave made the great claim that we need more fun watches! I wholeheartedly agree with that statement. After all the exquisite horological madness and serious discussions about the latest introduction at Watches and Wonders, we can use a bit of fun. What better way than to have a bit of fun with another Bamford Peanuts collaboration timepiece? This time, Bamford hooked up with our good friends across the pond to create the Bamford Peanuts Joe Preppy GMT Limited Edition For Hodinkee. Get ready for some London meets New York preppy style.Last year s Bamford collaborat...
Five years ago, Etienne Malec and two other collectors (Paul Bienstman and Clement Daniel) came together to create Baltic watches. Since then, the brands creations have captured the imagination of enthusiasts and seen an incredible rise in popularity. The latest MR-01 model made waves on social media. For a few weeks when it came out, the watch and its stunning micro-rotor movement absolutely dominated my Instagram feed. Baltics classic designs are inspired by its founders love for the classic and analog. These classic designs are undeniably appealing. And thanks to the brands direct-to-customer sales model, the pricing for the watches is more than fair. The brands success, therefore, is no...
