Vacheron Constantin is not pulling any punches this year. My previous article was a mere toe-dip in a veritable lake of horological goodness, and I havent even started looking at the elaborate wristwear from Le Cabinotiers. This atelier within the atelier has some rather elaborate pieces in its Geneva arsenal.But this story is about one single piece of horology. One that, for me, stood out like a shining totem in the Vacheron press releases. The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 has the power to put diamonds, tourbillons, and perpetual calendars in the shade, and it seems very familiar. My story on new releases from Vacheron Constantin the other day could have included this, but truth be t...
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer series has become interesting over the past couple of years. The popular divers now look higher-end than prior iterations and come with a lot of nice features. A ceramic bezel, a micro-adjust buckle, and more are some of the details that have brought this watch into the modern age. Today, we get three new Aquaracer models and they re all quite different from each other.The TAG Heuer Aquaracer first came about in 2004, and wow, were these popular amongst friends of mine who were early in their careers. They were solid divers with strong looks and loads of different options. After that mid- 00s period, though, I sort of lost track of the Aquaracer - until last year when...
Watches And Wonders is an event centered around some of the watch world s finest and most exclusive brands. , Patek, Lange, everyone is invited to the party - and it s a suit-and-tie affair (for those brave enough). Something I did not expect when touching down in Geneva this past Tuesday was that the very next day during breakfast a white paper bag adorned with a red Swatch logo would be waiting for me. The bag looked familiar. I had seen it in the hands of some of the lucky few, greeted by jealous stares as they exited the Swatch boutique in Rotterdam shortly after its 9:39 AM opening. Inside was the new Omega Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch. Undeniably, it s the watch launch of the year, ...
Sure, I saw the pictures, but who can trust pictures these days? I mean, some renderings you get from brands truly border on fakery. Reality sometimes has no place in those overly polished and touched-up depictions. You get no real sense of the hue of the colors used, the finishing, the shape, the proportions, and so on. And though the watches from JLC usually dont disappoint and the numbers and words in the press kit made sense, I only had the pre-produced photographs to go by visually. So I was a tad skeptical - thats just how I approach things in my watch life, I guess - before going hands-on with the steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar.What I wrote previously about the stee...
Stowa is the sort of brand that has been around for a while but remains conservatively low-key. Conservative may be the keyword, as the description applies to the brand s design, execution, pricing, and marketing (or lack thereof). Stowa is a German company that makes watches, full stop. For those chasing the hype high, Stowa may forever remain off the radar. But the brand is radical in its own low-key way. Stowa has committed to full transparency and post-sale access to parts and repair, perhaps a first in the industry. Where many other companies are going digital with exclusive NFTs, Stowa digitally marches in the opposite direction towards open source. Stowa, in a sense, is embodying the ...
It was foreseeable that Parmigiani would extend its Tonda PF line this year. After its launch in September 2021, this new watch family garnered a remarkable amount of attention. Through the Tonda PF, Parmigiani finally has earned the appreciation it deserves. Now, the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante shall take the same path. Accordingly, the expectations are high. And you know what? You won t be disappointed!Let me clarify one thing right from the start - this rattrapante is not a chronograph. While this information might dampen the enthusiasm of those who expected an extended version of Parmigiani s awesome split-second chronograph from last year, it is excellent news for almost all of us. This wa...
Nope, no Reverso to be seen at Watches & Wonders this year. Jaeger-LeCoultre made things complicated for 2022 by presenting a variety of round-cased watches. At the top of the list, theres the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948. Just below it, you will find the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Galaxia in pink gold and the Atomium version in white gold. And last, but certainly not least, the brand from Le Sentier introduces a complicated athlete with endless stamina. It s the sporty 42mm Polaris Perpetual Calendar, which comes in either rugged steel or sophisticated pink gold.At first, I thought I was missing something. That I overlooked something. That I didnt see the full picture. B...
Welcome to an entirely different side of Grand Seiko. We ve seen some rather exotic limited edition models over the past several years, but the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon has to be the most audacious. This watch is really something, but sadly it is for those with incredibly deep pockets. Still, it s fun to dream!The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon comes to us at Watches & Wonders 2022. It is not the only limited-edition model from Grand Seiko, but it is the most exclusive. Only 20 of these amazing watches will be produced and they will cost - wait for it - $370,000! So, park your Bugatti, and let s see what all the fuss is about…The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force To...
Tell me, are you an avid user of dark mode on your electronic devices? Personally, I set my devices so that they change from light to dark mode automatically based on the sunrise and sunset. And youre just like me, you must be very happy that Piaget has just given you the option to do the same with your Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC). Whereas the previous two versions were both light-silver-colored, Piaget has now introduced a dark mode to the thinnest watch in its collection.At 2.0mm thin, youre probably aware that the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept is not the thinnest mechanical watch around anymore. That award will now go to the recently introduced Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra at 1.8...
Since its rebirth last year, the PRX Collection has been the pinnacle of the Tissot catalog. And quite rightly so. The PRX was a breath of fresh air for Tissot and brought a whole host of new enthusiasts into the Tissot fold as a result. Now, in order to further explore the possibilities of the PRX s potential, the brand has introduced two new novelties into the family - two versions of the successful PRX Automatic with an 18k gold bezel and five new 35mm versions of the quartz PRX. Let s take a closer look.Over the last year, Tissot has proven that the PRX blueprint is hugely versatile. It effortlessly molds into every guise you can possibly throw at it. With these new releases, such is ind...
Every now and then, it feels like the stars align for a brand. A recent model becomes hugely popular due to its brilliant design, and the brand follows up with a confident next step. Everything comes together and results in perfection. This is exactly how the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT feels. The watch represents a maturation of the brands Spirit line and an exciting step in the right direction. It maintains all the design elements that made the Spirit models so popular and builds on the solid foundation established in 2020. Though the Spirit chronograph was already a stunning riff on the time-only model, this latest take brings a whole new level of potential to the Spirit. It also ti...
When Doxa dropped the Whitepearl colorway on its entry-level SUB200 last year, it was a bit of an experiment to gauge reception and interest for a pure white watch. Well, the wider watch community lapped it up right away. Quite rightly, too! Indeed when I first saw it at Geneva Watch Days last year, I was a fan. It was pure. It was simple. So, now Doxa is rolling out the Whitepearl colorway to the broader range, with one extra unique twist.People often think bright and colorful watches are the perfect summer accompaniment for the wrist. That said, sometimes you might want to wear something bright but a little less bold. Yellow, orange, and baby blue might be a little much in some situations,...
Patek Philippe graces us with two new timepieces inspired by vintage watches from the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. The first release is the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5320G. The reference 5230 was introduced in 2017 with a cream-colored dial. While that watch is no longer part of the current collection, Patek Philippe decided to re-introduce it with a stunning new aesthetic. The second release is the Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G, introduced in 2019 in a beautiful deep blue color. For both releases, Patek Philippe chose to equip the watches with beautiful gilded opaline rose gold dials, or as most people call them, salmon dials. Let s take a look at these two stylish beauties.T...
To the uninitiated, H. Moser & Cie is a highly acclaimed independent brand, best known for the minimalist, contemporary, and elegant designs of its timepieces. To those familiar with the family-owned Schaffhausen-based manufacture, its excellence in creating exquisite movements should be no surprise. With that baseline, you would be forgiven for dropping your jaw in seeing this novelty, a sporty intricate timepiece Moser is presenting at Watches & Wonders 2022. The brand has made its first foray into the skeleton watch segment with the launch of the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton.It is no exaggeration that I myself did a double-take when the news hit us. I would not have pre...
Ah, the delights of Watches & Wonders, low on pandemic measures but big on revenge spending. Even while much of the world is still struggling with the pandemic aftermath, events are back. And sadly, while Europe is not peaceful as it used to be, isnt this just the right time to daydream? Vacheron Constantin shows us that this is a very real possibility, even a rule.And Vacheron Constantin is never short on material to feed your inner daydreaming child, or rather, watch-obsessive. My wife seems to think there is a deep correlation between the two, and frankly, I see her point. Vacheron Constantin shows the best of what the brand is good at, from the minimalist lux of the Patrimony to begu...
Despite its slightly divisive birth last year, the wider community now seems to have firmly accepted Zenith s Chronomaster Sport with open arms. A few of my friends and acquaintances have picked up the stainless steel version, and the feedback has been very positive. Zenith itself seems to believe in the collection, too, as evidenced by the new releases we see before us. First, we had a steel watch with a ceramic bezel. Then, we had a gold version with a ceramic bezel. Now Zenith has decided to introduce three new models in two-tone and gold with no ceramic bezels in sight.Personally, I felt that the ceramic bezels were the one thing that made the Chronomaster Sport feel so modern compared t...
Some people say open-heart dials are passe. Well, call me old-fashioned, but I think that s poppycock! If done right, dials that reveal the beating heart of the watch can be some of the most intriguing dials out there. This is especially true when paired with a high-frequency movement. And when it comes to Zenith, high-frequency is the name of the game! For Watches & Wonders 2022, Zenith introduces the newest generation of the Chronomaster Open. This classily executed and wearable watch puts the balance and escapement of the 5Hz El Primero on display. Paired with Zenith s signature tri-color motif, it just may have you wearing your heart on your… face?Did you know that Zenith was t...
Fluted bezels are not a exclusive. Omega puts a fluted bezel on the Constellation Globemaster, for instance. But still, a bezel with multiple facets reflecting light has an inescapably strong vibe. But did you know that back in 1927, the Minerva Manufacture in Villeret made a fluted bezel? Well, it did. And in 1939, the brand produced a chronograph with a rotating fluted bezel with a red marking on it. And that last bezel is back. During Watches & Wonders 2022, Montblanc presents the Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88. And in the same Montblanc 1858 collection, the brand also launches a new Geosphere travel watch with an extra chronograph function, plus an icy cold dive watc...
In a week of wristwatch barrage from Geneva, the stand-out pieces are sometimes the more quiet-spoken ones. Laurent Ferrier is one of my favorite independent brands, and I can readily attest to feeling a strong desire for the blue-dialed Sport Auto. With a strong titanium case design and a different take on an integrated bracelet, its the thinking mans Nautilus, and it cemented my love for the brand. But the Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Blue is a very different take on comfortable, blue luxury.In our sometimes-ironic world of wristwear, I would actually turn the tables on normal logic and view the Sport Auto as a suited-up watch at best. I know, its a titanium sports watch, but it does hav...
The Lange 1 dial, with its iconic offset time and outsized date display, has become the symbol for the return of Glashtte watchmaking. For 2022, the Grand Lange 1 receives some elegant refinements for its 41mm case in either 18K pink or white gold. The manually wound movement has an impressive 72-hour power reserve and wonderful decoration viewable through a sapphire display case back. The case height is the real star of this new release from A. Lange & S?hne, with a reduction of 0.6mm to a thickness of 8.2mm.In either metal, the gray dial represents a stoic calmness that is perhaps needed in this world. It signifies an expression of luxury without shouting you into submission. This ste...
