Recently, I have been obsessed with a specific type of watch. Its not quite a dive watch, its not exactly a field watch, and it definitely isnt a dress watch. However, its a watch that has the best of all of those genres. I call it the everyday watch. This is not a new category or something I claim to have come up with. Far from it. Its more of a feeling of where a watch that doesnt seem to belong to one of the three basic genres can fit. The Vaer Atlas A3 is a perfect example of an everyday watch. In fact, its designed to be just that. It s a watch that makes just as much sense for a day at the office as it does for a weekend of hiking and camping out in the woods.Sure, this is all well and...

Sometimes, there are watches you love that are not always top of mind. Once you are reminded of their existence, however, you instantly know what makes them so brilliant. The Omega De Ville Chronograph 145.018 is one of those watches for me. Every time I see the watch, it s like falling in love all over again. The piece fits into the mold of sporty 1960s chronographs but with plenty of characteristic elements that make it stand out. It is one of those beloved chronographs from Omega s rich history that is very popular amongst Omega collectors. But as this watch is quite a rarity and Omega currently does not have a model like it in its collection, I would love to see it return. Time to find o...

We re back again for another Sunday Morning Showdown! Last week was not a fluke, and we have another Watches And Wonders 2022 brawl today. Two writers once again face off in an opinionated showdown. We re focusing our love/hatred on a single novelty this time. And, yes, I mean novelty in the way the trade shows use it (something new), but also in the amusing sense of the word. The Air-King sure garners both an amusing and bemusing response, but one that is ripe for scrutiny, which we ve seen before, as this is not the first time the Air-King has found itself in the Showdown arena. Today your votes determine whether the revisions push the Air-King further into the rate it camp or swing the ...

Not everything with a century-old history in the watch world comes out of Switzerland. There is one thing in the US that has stood the test of time - the Horological Society of New York. Founded in 1866, HSNY is one of the oldest continuously operating horological associations in the world. We had a few interviews with its movers and shakers in 2020. Now, it is great to once again witness the Society s efforts for the future of this field.HSNY recently announced its largest sum to date in financial aid for watchmaking students and schools at its annual gala. During the evening, the Society also raised an additional $18,000, which it says it will use toward its mission of advancing the art an...

We all know that the watch world is awash with endless tales of hyperbole, obfuscation, and the occasional bits of outright misinformation. Many of us have heard the stories of watch movements being used in pricey timepieces with manufacturing or design origins not exactly living up to that which is claimed. Weve also become all too familiar with the blatant fantasies that are often attached and presented as truth to the backstories of nascent start-ups, or mushroom brands, as they are sometimes known. In response to these pervasive falsehoods, the astute watch collector has adopted a cynical outlook, being ever vigilant and quick to pounce when confronted with deceptive marketing. For every...

If you read my story a couple of weeks ago on the brilliant Seiko Credor Phoenix chronograph, you might think Im mad. And yes, I also recently penned a story on consolidating a collection, based on my own process of downsizing. Then why am I on a spending spree the week after, buying not one, but TWO off-the-beaten-path Credors? I didnt mean to, honestly, but the wishy-washy working title for this story says it all. It s written on our content schedule as Time Only Credor Dress/field watch. The millennial-vintage 38mm Credor Phoenix is impossible to categorize, and therein lies its charm.The 38mm Credor Phoenix is one of those watches that you discover on Chrono 24, go Oh, now thats nice! an...

I never really wanted an Apple Watch. I bought one recently for professional reasons (as in, I didn t think it was credible to rail against something I didn t understand, so I picked one up to see if I could learn what all the fuss was about). My girlfriend hated it immediately. She hated the way I was even more connected to work. The constant buzzing of my phone had already been an issue before, and now, this watch made it all the worse. She saw it as blasphemy. Prior to my experiment, my wrist had been holy ground. It was a special place for special things. The Apple Watch is not special enough by itself. However, when enrobed in a Golden Concept case designed in Sweden, it just might be&#...

What is the most functional complication out there? No, let me rephrase, no, re-word that. What is the most FUNctional complication out there? Allow me to answer that. I think the mechanical alarm is a strong contender. Yes, the GMT would be my first choice for the most practical complication. But alas, theres very little fun to be found in a watch with a second timezone. On the other hand, an alarm watch - and one with a timer function, especially - is both practical because it tells you when the pasta is ready and fun because it does so with a charming vibration. The buzzing new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox Timer in rose gold is equally charming and practical. And its new colorw...

In todays video, RJ gets a taste of the incredible horological craftsmanship of A. Lange & S?hne. The Glashtte brand is known for its incredible creations, and the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Homage to F. A. Lange is no exception. It features finishing, materials, and craftsmanship that reaches the highest level of traditional watchmaking.A. Lange & S?hne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Homage to F. A. LangeYou might remember the A. Lange & S?hne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Homage to F. A. Lange from when Jorg wrote about it in his grail-watch article. And this is just the kind of watch you think of when thinking of a grail. Its not just an absolutely stunning chronograph, but its also...

I remember my dad walking around the house, winding the antique clocks on the walls when I was a kid. I think practically all of them had Roman numerals marking the hours. At that time, I never noticed what kind of four they used. I didn t bother checking whether it was a subtractive IV or an additive IIII - the latter of which is also known as the watchmaker s four. But since I often wear my Cartier Santos Galbee XL, I started wondering where the IIII actually came from. So, I decided to look it up on the big interwebs.Now, please don t expect any final answer on the origins of the watchmaker s four at the end of this article. What I found is that there are many stories about where the IIII...

As a wise man once said, there s way too much money in the world. Talking about the price increase of specific models by certain brands is worth its own article, and I will not get into that here. Nor will I comment on the December 2021 auction by Phillips where a certain-colored, double-signed Nautilus was hammered at over $6.5 million USD. Granted, it was for a good cause, and all of the proceeds went to charity. But it was the pinnacle of this social phenomenon that started earlier last year when one Sean Jay-Z Carter, hip-hop mogul, billionaire, and an all-around cool guy was seen wearing another example of the very same watch - the Patek Philippe Nautilus in Tiffany Blue.This comes as n...

It has been four years since I last saw this chronograph without pushers listed in an auction. Although I won the auction in 2018, I never received the watch. The fascinating Nicolet Landeron 251 movement thus became even more elusive. And I became even more committed to finding it… Every few weeks since 2018, I ve dug through eBay, Google, Yahoo, or you-name-it-listings in my routine check-in on the Nicolet Landeron 251. Not a single result. Nothing. Zero. Nill. I am moderate in my use of the term rare, but this watch is truly super rare. Many dealers claim this or that watch is rare, but they appear at least from time to time at big auction houses and are hammered for skyrocketing pr...

When Ulysse Nardin introduced its famous Freak in 2001, the idea was bold and revolutionary. More than two decades later, the Freak concept has evolved significantly. What has remained, however,?is that all the brand s Freak creations are still as bold and revolutionary as that original version 21 years ago. These watches feature no dial, no hands, and no crown. Instead, these are timepieces with a revolving movement equipped with a gear train and escapement rotating once every hour to display the minutes. During Watches And Wonders, Ulysse Nardin revealed the new Freak S. The watch features a new, revolutionary movement with two oscillators and it comes equipped with a new case. Oh, and it ...

I ve been test-driving each generation of the Forstner Flat Link bracelet for nearly two years now. From the early prototypes to the final product, I ve kept a close eye on each continual improvement. The new Forstner Contemporary Flat Link is the most significant update yet and gives an option to those wanting a modern feel. But while it still maintains the vintage cues, the Contemporary Flat Link is not without sacrifice.In his review here, Rob delivered the run down on this new Forstner bracelet. While it was fantastic to see the Flat Link on the Broad Arrow Omega Speedmaster, the Moonwatch is the iconic home of this bracelet style. As this is only a Strap Check, I won t be retreading Rob...

Over the last couple of months, some members of the Fratello team have written about their grail watches. The term grail watch can mean slightly different things to different people, but the concept of the term suggests it should be a watch that you will chase and likely never own. I mean, did King Arthur ever actually find his Holy Grail? To others, the grail-watch concept is the exit watch. It s the one watch that would allow you to retire from watch collecting. I find it doubtful that any of us could ever truly retire, but I appreciate the thought. My grail watch is a combination of the two concepts rolled into one. What watch is the object of my heart s desire? Simple, the URWERK UR-100V...

You cant control your heart. And a watch lover s heart, especially, tends to skip a beat when it encounters something that strikes a chord. And boy, did my heart skip a beat when I sat down during Grand Seikos touch-and-feel session during Watches And Wonders. It has been a few weeks since the event in Geneva, and I ve been trying to calm my heart ever since. But there is just no denying it. Even after a cool-down period of a few weeks, Ive fallen for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 GMT SBGE285 Mist Flake. What is it that makes my heart go boom?I can tell you right away why my heart goes boom when I look, feel, touch, and wear the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 GMT SBGE285 Mist Flake. Its the combinati...

Ten large, one stack of high society, or whatever you call it - this, $10,000, is what Ive been given to start a watch collection. Some would call it an insane amount of money to spend on an archaic wrist device. Others, perhaps, would say that it barely covers the price of admission. So, what will I do with this chunk of change? Lets see-In reality, $10,000 is a lot of money to set aside for the sole purpose of starting a watch collection. Its the kind of money that pays for a seriously nice vacation or two. It helps pay off a car or some sort of desperately needed home renovation project. In the watch world, though, it all depends on your aims. Be reasonable, and you can expect some great ...

What do you imagine when you think of a trip to Florence, Italy? I imagine a scene of the city during the golden hour, with a rose-gold hue bathing its gorgeous architecture. I m sipping away on my bright orange Aperol-Spritz while enjoying a fat brown cigar on one of the city s beautiful piazzas. And now, you may wonder, what watch I m wearing? Well, the Panerai Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo, of course!I wouldn t actually consider a Panerai for my personal collection any time soon. The times I ve tried them on, I ve found them too big and flashy for my 17cm wrist. And if I? had to choose one, it would be one of the Radiomir models with nearly non-existent wire lugs.So, when I first s...

Oris recently released its Sustainability Report for 2022. It s almost 50 pages of accounts of progress and promises for the future. Like some corporations that compile information for their shareholders in a sleek, savvy package, the Oris Sustainability Report is a seductive package for the environmentally-minded. It succinctly covers where Oris has come from and where the brand is going. I have to say, I m impressed, as I have been following Oris for a while now. But my question is, is it enough?Look, I m a bit of a sustainability kook. In another life, I m a professional arborist, climbing and taking care of trees in an urban forest on the West Coast of the United States. I was raised wit...

A few weeks ago, just before the tidal wave that was Watches And Wonders hit and submerged our entire team, I received a neat little watch from New York-based start-up Hesili. With only a couple of days wrist time before the fair and a couple more since then, I focused hard on the watch before me and its overall presentation to provide you with some initial takeaways from what I m sure we all hope turns out to be a successful venture.The model in question is the Original Series One. It s an easily digestible 40mm stainless steel timepiece, clearly drawing on timeless designs littered throughout watchmaking s history. A 48.5mm lug-to-lug and 10.7mm thickness make this watch melt into the wri...