In 2019, Omega introduced the hand-wound caliber 3861 in both Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary editions. Then, in 2020, the brand used it as the movement for the Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award edition with an automaton on the case back. One year later, Omega introduced an update of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, featuring a new case, dial, hands, bracelet, and movement. Caliber 3861 became the successor of the Lemania-based caliber 1861, this time with a Master Chronometer certification by METAS.The first caliber 3861 was introduced in the Apollo 11 50th Anniversary in Moonshine GoldCaliber 3861The new 3861 movement uses antimagnetic alloys, providing resistance to magn...

In today s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Lex take a look at and try to make sense of watch prices today. It s often a hot topic of discussion in the comments. In a world where price increases happen two or more times a year, it s a challenge to keep up with where value lies. But is it a mistake to expect bang-for-buck in the world of luxury? Then, the matter of brands positioning within the world of watches comes into play. As watch enthusiasts, we are aware of the plate tectonics within the watch industry and can feel when something doesn t sit quite right. So, how do we make sense of all of this? That s the question. But before we attempt to answer it, let s see what s on our ...

Welcome to this special episode of Fratello Talks for LVMH Watch Week 2024! You join Nacho, Timo, and RJ, who run through the list of releases from Bvlgari, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith. It may still be early in the year, but we ve already seen a ton of new watches. These brands have also given us more than a handful of new releases to be excited about. Among the novelties, you ll find contemporary takes on classic designs, from Zenith adding a classic complication to a fan favorite to TAG Heuer bringing back the Dato dial in the Glassbox formula. Additionally, Bvlgari has dropped a couple of new, bold colorways for the Octo Finissimo, and Hublot is flexing its technical chops with the MP-1...

Welcome to the second episode of the second season of Fratello Talks! As we kick off the year, we re dusting off old debates, and today, we talk about the myth of a perfect watch size. Your host Nacho is joined by RJ and Thomas to discuss horological proportions. Is there such a thing as a perfect watch size? We don t think so. Too many factors come into play, from thickness to lug-to-lug and even the case shape, not to mention the wearer s wrist circumference and profile. Ultimately, trying as many different watches as possible and seeing what works for you is the way to go. What may seem too big or too small on paper is sometimes more wearable than expected in the metal. You might just be ...

One of the most coveted Omega Speedmaster watches is the Alaska Project model from 2008. Surrounding it is a myth about the original white-dial Speedmasters that Omega designed for NASA, but it also stands out because of its stark white dial with rocket hands and a red chronograph seconds hand.The 2008 Speedmaster Alaska Project with and without its red anodized outer caseCodename Alaska ProjectWhen Omega introduced this Speedmaster Alaska Project in 2008 as a limited edition of 1,970 pieces, Speedmaster watches were in a different place than they are these days. Even the limited editions that are highly desirable now took some time to sell back then. Today, the 2008 Speedmaster Alaska Proje...

Hello, and welcome to the last episode of Fratello Talks in 2023. Today, RJ, Lex, and your host Nacho are here to discuss their personal, professional, and horological highlights of the year. It s the 2023 wrap-up episode! Tune in and watch (or listen) as the guys reminisce over some of the past 12 months. They touch on topics ranging from some of the year s best watch releases and events to horological innovations, articles, and personal achievements. We put a ribbon on 2023 and send the year off on a high by reading off a handful of your comments. But before anything else, it s time for the final wrist check this year.This video is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Cha...

First, a very Merry Christmas to those who are celebrating. I ve had the honor and pleasure of occupying this slot several times before, and I m happy to be back again! This year, I m pivoting from my normal sports-watch tendencies and bringing something much different. I hope you enjoy it! They say the perfect watch doesn t exist, and I suppose they re correct (whoever they are). However, I maintain that the Patek Philippe Calatrava 570 comes asymptotically close. This is a watch boiled down to the absolute elements, and while it may seem overly simple at first glance, it keeps me coming back for more time and time again. It s an extreme exercise in restraint. It also makes a serious argume...

As you ve already been reminded a couple of times this month, we get a ton of new watches each year. Some are hits, and others are flops. One of the best watch surprises in 2023 was the introduction of the Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel. Perhaps its better to call it a reintroduction, though, as the first Chopard L.U.C 1860 was introduced in 1997, and one could see this new version as a long-awaited update. It s classic, it s dressy, but is it any good? I got my hands on the watch to answer that question.Chopard L.U.C 1860One year before the introduction of the first L.U.C 1860, Chopard had introduced its L.U.C 1.96 movement. It found its way into the L.U.C. 1860 in 1997, which became av...

Welcome to the antepenultimate episode of Fratello Talks in 2023. Before wrapping up the year, we thought we d do a little bit of housekeeping. So today, Nacho, RJ, and Lex are here to bring you a watch market update. Before settling into the holidays, it s good to look back at the year we ll soon be leaving behind. And one thing that really caught our eye is the current shift in the state of the watch market. The prices of new watches have grown like never before, playing catch-up with the over-inflated pre-owned market. Now, as the latter softens, we reach a tipping point. There will be winners, and there will be losers. Only one thing is for sure: the guys have killer watches on their wri...

This year, I have attended a bunch of watch get-togethers (GTGs) organized by enthusiasts and collectors, most of which are not specific to any brand or watch. A local watch community often organizes them, and when I can, I will join (though I try to keep the weekends for family). This most recent get-together was organized by someone from the Speedmaster community, and it was in the Netherlands. This combination left me no excuse not to join!Watch roll with Moonwatches - Image: JukoSpeedmaster GTGThe exact location was only revealed on the day to guarantee the safety of all the attendees. This is quite a common thing to do because the guests tend to bring some (or all) of their precious wat...

Within vintage circles, the Universal Geneve Polerouter looms large as one of the most revered watch designs in history. Of course, with a name like Gerald Genta at the drafting table, that makes a lot of sense. Now a book is available, simply titled The Polerouter, and it is a magnificently detailed tribute to the entire history of these watches.I reckon that most fans of vintage watches could come up with a shortlist of pieces that everyone should have in their collections. Within such an index, I think it s fair to say that the Universal Geneve Polerouter, especially in its early form, would be found. The masterpiece was first released in 1954 and famously took its name from a partnership...

REM Straps needs no introduction here on Fratello. As you know, we ve been doing a monthly collaboration with the company on Speedmaster straps this year. But REM s portfolio is much bigger than just those, of course. The Swedish brand creates straps that will suit any kind of watch but also ones for specific models. One of those is the Omega Seamaster 300M, and REM s Big Waves strap is the perfect complement to it.The Seamaster (Professional/Diver) 300M has been Omega s bread-and-butter watch since 1993. Aside from its helium valve, one of its most famous characteristics is the wave-pattern dial (yes, that did disappear for a few years). REM sent us two straps to try on our Seamaster 300M w...

Season s greetings, dear Fratelli! It is indeed that time of year once again. The holidays are just around the corner, and our yearly gift guide is here, fresh off the press! We ve wrangled up the editorial team and had them put together a selection of gifts that will put a smile on the face of anyone horologically inclined.Fratello Holiday Gift Guide 2023Whether you re looking for a gift for that special someone, a good friend, or yourself, or you re playing Secret Santa to a watch-obsessed recipient, there s bound to be something on our list that ll catch your eye. As with last year s Fratello Holiday Gift Guide, we didn t strictly limit ourselves to watch accessories. We ve also included ...

With Dubai Watch Week 2023 behind us, it s time to revisit more releases. The event first took place in 2015, and it has quickly grown into one of the annual highlights on the horological calendar. This year, people who attended the event agreed that it was bigger and better than ever. We saw a plethora of great releases from the show, many of which we featured here on Fratello for those who weren t in Dubai. But there were also some glorious new timepieces that we did not cover but that do deserve a place in the spotlight. Let s take a look at a few of them today.Dubai Watch Week has quickly become an event to look forward to. In the past couple of years, some of the horological highlights ...

Welcome, Fratelli, to Fratello Talks! This week, your host Nacho is joined by Gerard and Daan. Together, the three tackle the topic of G-Shock watches - the great equalizers, the trusty go-tos, and the watches of which every collector should own at least one. But if you re reading this, you re deep enough down the horological rabbit hole (unless they re genuinely not your thing, which is also OK) that you probably have at least one already.?Speaking of which, let s take a look at what the guys have on their wrists today.This video is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Cha...

A few months ago, I traveled to Fortis in Grenchen, Switzerland, and sat down with CEO Jupp Philipp to talk about watches. Jupp bought the Fortis company back in 2018, and during our talk, he explained how his journey with watches began. In the watch industry, a person like Jupp Philipp is quite a rare breed since he doesn t like the old-fashioned way of working that many brands follow. Despite running a watch company that is over 100 years old, he treats Fortis as if it were a startup.Fratello FortisOn a very late evening in Grenchen, I sat down with Jupp Philipp and Marketing Manager Andreas Bentele, who moderated the talk. As you probably know, it s great to talk watches with like-minde...

Theres a new wind blowing at Audemars Piguet. Well, its about to start blowing, anyway. On January 1st, 2024, Ilaria Resta, who already joined the brand last August, will assume her role as Audemars Piguets chief executive officer. She will take over from long-time CEO Fran?ois-Henry Bennahmias after his 30-year tenure at the Le Brassus-based high-end watch manufacturer. AP grew into the stratosphere under Bennahmias, but the luxury market has come under pressure. How will Resta fill Bennahmiass big shoes, and what does the future of Audemars Piguet look like?Swiss Firmenich SA is the worlds largest privately owned perfume and taste company. Ilaria Resta worked as President, Global Perfumery...

Welcome to the 43rd episode of Fratello Talks. Today, we are feeling retrospective, so we decided to look back at some highlights released throughout this year so far. You join RJ, Lex, and Nacho, who will run through what, to them, are the best watches of 2023. Each has been tasked with picking their five favorites from the year. They kept these picks to themselves, but as you ll see, there was no overlap. But before we check out their highlights of the year so far, it s time for a wrist check.This video is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Wri...

On this week s episode of Fratello Talks, Lex, Morgan, and Nacho take a look at the Tudor Pelagos FXD. The guys have all four references so far lined up for a closer look. However, it s not just the FXD that takes all the attention. We start with a look back at the birth of the original Pelagos and how the line expanded to include this fixed-bar dive watch. Since its introduction in late 2021, the FXD has become a fan favorite. However, the recent additions to the lineup have certainly stirred people s feelings. The Alinghi Red Bull co-branded models gave watch enthusiasts a lot to discuss. The latest release, the US Navy-inspired FXD, took this Pelagos back to basics with the most stripped-...

This months edition of Watch Strap Review might be interesting for the vintage community but not so much for fans of modern timepieces. However, as Im a vintage guy at heart and this is my column, I decided to write it anyway. Today, Ill review a few leather goodies that GLC Straps created for watches with fixed lugs - in other words, lugs that do not accommodate standard spring bars. Although other brands today might utilize these in their watches, the only one I could think of was Tudor with the Pelagos FXD.Regardless, its an excellent topic and useful for the vintage community. For all you fans of modern watches out there, I still hope that youll enjoy the story.Fixed lugs/strap barsBefor...