Switzerland, Germany, and Japan make up my big three of the watchmaking world, with France on the rise. Yet, of all these hubs, Japan has been slow to embrace the microbrand trend. Big brands, including Seiko, Grand Seiko, Citizen, Orient, and Casio, dominate the market. Recently, however, independents such as Kurono Tokyo, Hajime Asaoka, Kikuchi Nakagawa, and Minase have entered the scene, albeit with generally higher prices. Today, we look at the first affordable releases from a new brand, Kiwame Tokyo.From a relatively early stage in my collecting journey, I ve been attracted to Japanese watches. Like the country itself, I enjoy the different approach to watch design that many of these pi...

About a month ago, Dave wrote about a new series of dress watches from Praesidus. This was a first for the young brand that usually focuses on military-themed field watches and chronographs. But even if it is a dress watch, it would not be a Praesidus without a link to a historical military event. The new Praesidus Victory Day Collection commemorates the 80th anniversary of V-Day, the end of World War II. We had a chance to go hands-on with two of the four available models and learn more about Praesidus s first series of dress watches.When the new Victory models landed on my desk, it caught me off guard to see a duo of dress watches from Praesidus. I must admit that I hadn t read the press i...

Nivada Grenchen is always fun to explore. The brand was well regarded in the 20th century for tough tool watches, including a series that went to Antarctica. This led to the Antarctic watch line, and today, we ll look at a vintage example.Revitalized in recent years, Nivada Grenchen has been going from strength to strength, focusing on reissues of watches that populated its impressive back catalog. The original brand fell victim to the Quartz Crisis. Nowadays, its catalog ranges from chronographs to dive watches and time-only pieces.It is the brand s Antarctic line, however, that is one of its mainstays. Nivada Grenchen debuted this product line in 1950. It is also one of the brands leading ...

There is something about a watch tied to a good story. Whether it is a mythical creature, a historical figure, or a place that sparks the imagination, the right narrative can elevate a watch beyond being just another diver in the lineup. Spinnaker has leaned into this idea more than once, but its latest release might be one of the most playful yet. The brand has joined forces with the team at the Scottish Watches podcast to create the Fleuss Automatic Nessie Pearl Diver Limited Edition.This collaboration is limited to 650 pieces and takes its cues from the dark waters of Loch Ness. As the name suggests, it celebrates Scotlands famous legendary monster.Where Loch Ness meets the wristThe star ...

Another Friday, another list! Today, we re continuing our series focusing on budget-friendly watches. Not too long ago, we compiled a trio of lists covering the best available watches under $500. For this new series of three articles, we ll double the budget and focus on the best watches under $1,000. Last week, we kicked off the series with our five picks from big brands. In this week s article, we discuss our favorites from small brands. We will close the series out with five quartz picks next week. So, let s jump into the world of small brands and find out what we have chosen.As I explained last week, we could have just picked our five overall favorite watches under $1,000 and left it at ...

Earlier this year, Formex surprised us with the skeletonized Formex Essence Ceramica. It showcased just how far the brand could push modern materials and finishing at an accessible price point. The sleek, all-ceramic case and bracelet showcased Formexs technical prowess, while the skeletonized dial guaranteed a big visual statement.Now Formex returns with a solid-dial version of the Essence Ceramica. It comes in four striking colors and shares the same 41mm case. In other news, Formex teamed up with Soprod to develop a proprietary version of the P092 movement. This caliber debuts in todays new model. I got the chance to spend some time with this new watch; lets see how we fared!The Formex Es...

Who likes to keep a secret? This guy doesn t! However, when we visited David Candaux at Geneva Watch Days 2025, we had to promise to keep our collective mouths shut about an upcoming release. Almost four weeks later, I m excited to talk about the new DC12 MaveriK. This was easily one of my favorite pieces from the show, so let s explore why.I had the opportunity to meet David Candaux briefly at an independent watchmakers event held by Phillips in London last year. He was friendly and approachable, two words that aren t always associated with high-end independent watchmaking. His creations are unlike any other brand s, with an intuitive push-button telescoping crown at the bottom of the case...

Since 2020, ID Geneve has produced watches with a more sustainable and equitable future in mind. The brand s 100% Swiss-made timepieces feature innovative components, such as self-healing carbon fiber, reprocessed stainless steel, and leather-alternative straps. To celebrate the 10th anniversary of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) of the United Nations, ID Geneve launches the Circular SDG tribute watch during Climate Week in New York City with support from business partner and environmental advocate Leonardo DiCaprio.This is our first time writing about an ID Geneve watch. If you re into sustainable watchmaking, you might already know the brand. Co-founders Nicolas Freudiger, Cedr...

Two of Britains most contrasting watch brands are pairing up again. After the London-exclusive Gimlet, Fears and Studio Underd0g have headed across the Atlantic with another cocktail-inspired collab. Introducing the Manhattan, a watch that blends the elegance and heritage of Fears with Studio Underd0gs irreverent spirit.Only 300 pieces of the Fears Studio Underd0g Manhattan will be available exclusively at Windup Watch Fair NYC, starting on October 17th. Each will cost US$1,300.About Fears and Studio Underd0gFounded in 1846 in Bristol, Fears is among the UKs oldest watchmakers. The company flourished for 130 years before closing in 1976. The founders great-great-great-grandson, Nicholas Bo...

Glashtte Original was founded in 1845, and to commemorate this milestone, the brand has unveiled a stunning new PanoLunarTourbillon. As we ll see, the watch showcases the best of the manufacture, featuring an in-house movement and dial. With a limited production run and flagship status, this watch won t be for everyone, but it s a great example of its maker s talents.Glashtte Original debuted the PanoLunarTourbillon in 2013. Since then, the watch has undergone small tweaks to its movement, including the introduction of a silicon balance spring and an increased power reserve. Also, the thickness has dropped slightly. Above all, though, the signature layout, with its off-center dial, tourbil...

Tissot is one of our favorite brands here at Fratello. The company s blend of history and industry-leading value also makes it a popular pick among buyers. Often, at the heart of this value proposition is an impressive movement. The Powermatic 80 has been in production since 2012, but it still offers impressive specs. Watches such as the PRX use this movement. Above this, a COSC version exists, which Tissot has placed into the new Ballade. Today, we take another look at these movements.When I began collecting watches, the idea of an affordable automatic movement with more than three days of power reserve would have been difficult to fathom. However, with the Swatch Group s Powermatic 80, and...

Usually, new dial variations tend to be the least surprising novelties in the watch world. If we re talking about a new Grand Seiko dial, though, I m all ears. When I first saw the Grand Seiko SLGB005 in a lineup of six models, it didn t instantly grab my attention. The recently released Sunrise Tentagraph SLGC006 and Moonlit Birch SLGW007 immediately jumped out at me when I opened the box. However, I love unusual dial colors, so when I noticed this dark purple dial, it immediately intrigued me. That intrigue quickly transformed into an adoration for one of the most beautiful dials I have seen recently. Let me elaborate on that.In every press release, Grand Seiko makes a point to explain wha...

Is there such a thing as an endgame watch? It s not something we often consider. But just about two weeks ago, Henry wrote an article about his new Sea-Dweller 16600, referring to it as the ultimate diver and his endgame watch. This got us thinking about what this would be for us, so today on Fratello Talks, Nacho, Daan, and Thomas talk about their endgame watches. As you can imagine, it s not as straightforward as it may seem. However, Thomas and Daan do seem to be pretty set on theirs. Still, there s always room for wishful thinking, wild picks, and, of course, establishing the difference between a grail and an endgame watch. Before we jump into it, let s see what s on the guys wrists.Th...

Independent watchmaking is often most interesting when it balances tradition with something fresh. That is exactly what Nicolas Delaloye has done with the Renaissance. On paper, its a classical dress watch with an enamel dial and a hand-wound movement. However, the case is made of tantalum, one of the most intriguing and difficult metals to work with in watchmaking. The combination gives the watch a certain quiet drama, making it feel familiar and unexpected at the same time.When talking about tantalum watches, you might think of F.P.Journe, J.N. Shapiro, or even Audemars Piguet. But now we have a new player stepping into the picture, and hes tackling the higher end of tantalum-cased horolog...

Ming is probably best known for its simple, time-only watches. After all, these are the types of pieces responsible for the small brand s dramatic rise in popularity. However, the eight-year-old brand has offered chronographs, GMTs, worldtimers, and other complications. In 2021, the first Ming watch with a date indicator arrived. It also included a moonphase complication. Then, a follow-up model debuted in 2023. Two years later, the final model in the trio is here. Join me for a brief look at the new 37.05 Lunatic.Although most people prefer a date function on their watches, the idea has typically seemed foreign to Ming. There s hardly a brand I can recall that focuses more on the purity of ...

I have had the pleasure of covering releases from Louis Moinet for several years. By and large, most of the watches have featured wild complications and materials. They ve been fun, limited, and expensive. Therefore, when the brand debuted the 1816 Chronograph at Watches and Wonders 2025, we took notice due to its more modern design. Now, Louis Moinet has added a second contemporary piece (don t worry; it still has classic touches) known as the 1806 Chronometre d Observatoire. Frankly, this might prove to be the marque s most compelling release yet.When we first set eyes on the 1816 Chronograph, most of us on the team were impressed. The watch brought classic details inspired by its original...

Norqain has been releasing new watches non-stop. The young Swiss brand has steadily extended its catalog over the past couple of years. Additionally, we have seen quite a few special editions produced in limited numbers. The latest special-edition releases are two of the brand s popular Neverest models. Special dials inspired by the Khumbu Icefall on Mt. Everest bring a new aesthetic to these Neverest Golden Glacier watches. The first is a three-hander with a black and gold color scheme, and the second is a GMT with a gray and gold color combination. Both celebrate Mt. Everest and give back to the Nepalese people through the Butterfly Help Project.When it comes to Norqain, I mostly enjoy the...

Everyone s watch-collecting journey is different, but I assume most of us start on the lower end of the spectrum when it comes to the amount spent per watch. Some continue to collect watches around that same entry-level price point, while others stretch their budget a bit and go for more expensive watches. In the long run, you might end up spending significantly more than you did on that first watch. But although everyone s journey is different, I think every single one of us deals or even struggles with the quality vs. quantity collector s conundrum from time to time.Three and a half years ago, I started by buying the Oris Art Blakey as my first real luxury watch. At just under $2,000, it w...

Nowadays, almost all new watches presented get comments about their prices. A very nice watch, but not for that price is a frequently heard comment, not only by our readers but also by Fratello s editors. But is criticism like this justified? In relative terms, have watches become much more expensive than, let s say, 20 years ago? Or do our minds still live in an era long gone?It is a tricky question to answer because of the complexity with which a price is determined. Therefore, I won t be able to give anything more than a general indication. And to get such an indication, I decided to look at the last two decades, from 2003 to 2023. What happened during this period with watch prices, infla...

As a collector of Omega Speedmaster watches, I have always been attracted to the variations with a white dial. I only succeeded in adding one to my collection (finally) in the early 2000s by acquiring the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonphase ref. 3575.20. It is the most gorgeous variation of the Moonphase models that I ve ever seen, and I would like to highlight some other white-dial Speedy beauties today.An Alaska prototypeWhite-dial Speedmaster watchesThe Omega Speedmaster debuted with a black dial in 1957, and it would not be until 1969 that Omega would show the watch with a light dial color (gold). A few Speedmaster Professionals have left the Omega headquarters with blue/gray-blue d...