Hands-On: The Louis Moinet 1806 Chronometre dObservatoire

November 25, 2019

I have had the pleasure of covering releases from Louis Moinet for several years. By and large, most of the watches have featured wild complications and materials. They ve been fun, limited, and expensive. Therefore, when the brand debuted the 1816 Chronograph at Watches and Wonders 2025, we took notice due to its more modern design. Now, Louis Moinet has added a second contemporary piece (don t worry; it still has classic touches) known as the 1806 Chronometre d Observatoire. Frankly, this might prove to be the marque s most compelling release yet.When we first set eyes on the 1816 Chronograph, most of us on the team were impressed. The watch brought classic details inspired by its original stopwatch from the namesake year. Designers were able to capture the spirit of this piece within the confines of a modern titanium case, paired with a comfortable, integrated bracelet. It s a winner, and while it isn t inexpensive, the watch is more affordable than a typical offering from Louis Moinet. The latest 1806 Chronometre d Observatoire takes this idea a step further as a time-only model. We were fortunate to spend some time with it at the recent Geneva Watch Days 2025 event and are pleased to share our thoughts.The Louis Moinet 1806 Chronometre d ObservatoireThe first impression of the latest Louis Moinet is that it bears a strong resemblance to the 1816 Chronometer. However, as we ll see, the watch has some different stylizing flourishes, making it more than a simpler version. A similarly sized 40.6mm Grade 5 titanium case sports a blend of polished and satin-brushed surfaces. Additionally, a polished bezel surrounds a lightly domed sapphire crystal with two layers of antireflective coating.The crystal is thicker on this watch than the chronograph, which contributes to the slightly greater 15.15mm thickness. It s a nod to the perceived sporting intent and is backed by a 50m depth rating.Like the chronograph, the 1806 Chronometre d Observatoire comes equipped with an integrated titanium bracelet. The thin push-button folding clasp is comfortable and discreet. Similarly, the bracelet conforms well to the wrist and is a nice example of a smaller brand getting this all-important detail right. Louis Moinet 1806 Chronometre d Observatoire Classic dial detailsWhereas most integrated-bracelet watches flaunt patterned dials, the 1806 Chronometre d Observatoire takes a different approach. This model blends the classic styling of pocket watches with contemporary touches. The rhodium-plated dial has a bead-blasted surface and contains engraved details. Black nickel cabochons are paired with applied, polished Arabic numerals and the brand s fleur-de-lis logo. These elements, along with a raised, circular-grained minute track, provide ample depth to the dial s surface. A small running seconds display sits at 9 o clock and replicates the larger dial s design. Finally, blued minute and hour skeletonized hands with Super-LumiNova match four screws that sit on the dial s outer edge. All told, it s an intricate affair, but the finished product is well executed and refreshingly different from the archetypal dressy but sporty integrated-bracelet sports watch.A proprietary movement on displayFittingly, the movement inside the 1806 Chronometre d Observatoire carries an LM1806 designation. The automatic caliber is a proprietary design manufactured by Concepto. For a watch in this price category, the finishing is as expected. Blued screws, perlage, C?tes de Geneve, and snailing are all on display. Of special note is the gold-plated rotor. From a performance standpoint, the LM1806 has 48 hours of power reserve and a frequency of 28,800vph. Also, after 15 days of testing, each watch receives an observatory chronometer certification. A large signed crown is used to set the time and, if desired, to manually wind the movement.An upscale timepiece on the wristI keep coming back to a key point: the 1806 Chronometre d Observatoire is a unique proposition for the wrist. We ve become accustomed to hexagonal or longitudinally stretched watches with integrated bracelets. This makes a round option comparatively distinctive. Also, most of these pieces make do with minimalist dial designs that focus more on textured surfaces. Louis Moinet s latest model follows none of these trends. In a way, it s a traditional dress watch in a more modern wrapper. Yet, it works and feels like a breath of fresh air. What makes it even more compelling is that it took a small brand to create a watch like this.Let s shift to our impressions of the watch on the wrist. Overall, the feelings are positive. No, this isn t the thinnest watch, but it gets away with a modicum of excess thickness due to its early pocket watch roots. Plus, the case flanks are detailed in a way that makes the profile attractive. Crucially, the lugs curve dramatically to follow the curvature of one s wrist. It s an important cue that reduces the visual weight of the total product. The bracelet itself is thin and nicely constructed, and it feels like an extension of the watch head. That sounds obvious, but there are examples of integrated-bracelet watches on which the bracelet feels like an afterthought (the Lange Odysseus has never quite worked in my eyes). All in all, it s a watch I wouldn t mind wearing as a foil against the legions of Royal Oak copycats.Final takeaways - the 1806 Chronometre d ObservatoireI really like what Louis Moinet has done with the 1806 Chronometre d Observatoire. Until now, the brand has remained largely unknown to all but the most particular collectors. This piece may change that, as discerning buyers should notice its distinctiveness in terms of design and relative exclusivity. Regarding pricing, the watches are officially listed as Price on Application, but a price of CHF 18,900?(excluding taxes) is shown online in the UK. This gives us a relative ballpark in other currencies. Considering the amount of detail work in this watch, I think that s in line with the competition. However, we d love to hear your thoughts on this interesting take on a very popular style of watch.Watch specifications Brand Louis Moinet Model 1806 Chronometre d'Observatoire Dial Rhodium-plated with bead-blasted surface, engravings, black nickel cabochon indexes and applied Arabic numerals, and four blued steel screwsCase Material Grade 5 titanium with polished and brushed finishesCase Dimensions 40.6mm (diameter) 15.15mm (thickness)Crystal Sapphire with double antireflective coatingCase Back Grade 5 titanium and sapphire crystal, affixed with four screws Movement LM1806 (produced by Concepto): automatic with manual winding, observatory-certified chronometer, 28,800vph frequency, 48-hour power reserve, 22 jewels, including C?tes de Geneve, perlage, and snailingWater Resistance 50 metersStrap Grade 5 titanium bracelet with polished and satin-brushed finishes and push-button butterfly claspFunctions Time only (hours, minutes, small seconds)Price CHF 18,900 (ex. taxes)Warranty Two years