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Oyster Perpetual Celebration - First Thoughts

In 2020, managed to start a colorful trend when the brand released multiple brightly colored dial variations within the Oyster Perpetual collection. Many brands have followed suit, from giants like Omega with the updated Aqua Terra collection to smaller brands like NOMOS and Sinn. None of them have managed to create the same amount of hype as , though, especially with the infamous Tiffany blue variation.A bubbly display of colorAvailable for the Oyster Perpetual 31, 36, and 41, the new dial decoration - named Celebration - adds differently sized bubbles to the Crown s most hyped-up dial color, Tiffany blue. Or, as officially calls it, turquoise blue. The bubbles come with a black border an...

The Yacht-Master 42 In Titanium Brings Relevance

Perhaps the new Yacht-Master 42 in titanium has been the worst-kept secret since Ben Ainslie was spotted wearing a perceived prototype back in 2021. Now, though, it s finally here in production form as reference 226627, and it s a great addition to the lineup. From a tool-watch perspective, the lightweight material finally gives this model some purpose. Hooray!I ve always thought that the Yacht-Master was one of the oddest sports watches in the fleet. It is ostensibly made for sailing with its bidirectional external bezel, but it comes off as more of a luxury piece. With today s new titanium Yacht-Master 42, ups the purpose-made focus of this watch by a large degree and I think it really ...

The New Tudor Black Bay 54 And More Novelties

Tudor has just announced a multitude of new Black Bay models as part of its Watches and Wonders 2023 releases. This new generation of Black Bays introduces a heritage call-back to Tudor s earliest dive watches with the Black Bay 54, as well as a reworked, METAS-certified Black Bay and a new dial for the Black Bay GMT. But that s not all. Tudor s latest releases have all been brought back to the drawing board, where the capable hands of its designers have added subtle yet critical changes, most of which you won t likely spot at first sight.Tudor Black Bay 54Let s begin with the new Tudor Black Bay 54. As watches grow - namely the new 2023 Explorer - Tudor watches have found a comfort zone ar...

Perpetual 1908: You Asked For Something Different

If is good at one thing, it s making incremental improvements to its existing collections. Watches that have been in the catalog for decades - you all know them. It s also exactly this strategy that sometimes earns negative feedback from the watch community. With the introduction of the new Perpetual 1908, the brand shows that it can do something new.Perpetual 1908This new model is a homage to the year when founder Hans Wilsdorf started to use as the brand name on his watches. The 39mm Perpetual 1908 is a dressier watch that shows some similarities with the famous Cellini collection. It s an elegant-looking piece with a height of just 9.5mm, and it is only available in precious metals....

Introducing: The Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic

Mostly known to collectors for its excellent dive watches, Certina is a brand with a rich history topside as well. This new release, the DS-2 Chronograph Automatic, takes inspiration from a particular model from 1970 that made its mark not by how deep it went. Quite the opposite, in fact. Accompanying a Japanese expedition to Everest, the original DS-2 Chronolympic made quite an epic journey back down the mountain.Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic - looking backVintage reissues are commonplace these days. As everything old is new again, it makes sense for brands to dust off models with an exciting backstory or place in history. The DS-2 Chronograph Automatic is directly inspired by the DS-2...

New: GMT-Master II Models With Black/Gray Bezels

is firing on all cylinders at Watches and Wonders 2023. There are so many good releases within the heart of the lineup, and the GMT-Master II is no exception. This year, we are treated to two new variants, and both bring in one of our favorite materials - gold! The Rolesor (bi-color) 126713GRNR and full yellow gold 126718GRNR models are here.Who doesn t love a bit of gold on a Jubilee when it comes to the GMT-Master II? Well, I do for one, and it seems that has answered the call. If we think about the 80s and 90s advertisements for the GMT-Master II, pictures of a commercial pilot s wrist complete with a black jacket and gold detailing were often complemented by a bi-color . To me, a mod...

s New-Generation Daytona For Its 60th Anniversary

If you like to wear your watches no matter where you go, you should probably skip this article. Indeed, the Daytona is only for the brave of heart. Not only is it probably the most recognizable watch in s catalog, but its also one of the most iconic watches in general. A dramatic markup over its retail price on the secondary market ensures that you are also easily identified as a target. Lets see what has in store for the Daytona s 60th anniversary.An evolution rather than a revolution had an interest in Daytona Beach and the speed demons who raced there as far back as the early 1930s. However, the Daytona that most of us think of today when someone mentions was a watch that debuted in 196...

The New Explorer 40 Ref. 224270 - Is Bigger Better?

just announced an additional reference to its collection of Explorer watches. Meet the new Explorer ref. 224270, now in a 40mm size. After introducing and discontinuing the 39mm Explorer, decided it was time to cater to those who can t or don t want to wear the Explorer 36. Explorer 40 ref. 224270The Explorer doesn t need any introduction, so I won t bother you with it (for now). The Explorer is (perhaps) my absolute favorite-looking sports model. It s a clean-looking watch with a very legible dial, no date, and, basically, no nonsense. The problem for me, though, is the 36mm size. I ve tried it numerous times - my wife has an Explorer, and some of my colleagues do as well - but it never...

The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox

Ask a watch enthusiast to name some iconic chronographs, and the Heuer Carrera will likely be one of them. Together with another iconic chronograph, the Daytona, it debuted back in 1963. It was actually a young Jack Heuer who came up with the design and the name for this watch. And now, 60 years later, the Carrera is still true to that first model that Heuer designed. These new two contemporary Carrera Chronograph Glassbox models hit the sweet spot with a 39mm diameter. Furthermore, they have a beautiful domed sapphire crystal shaped just like the Plexiglass crystals on the vintage models. Let s have a closer look.TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph GlassboxThe original Heuer Carrera ref. 2447 wa...

Cartier Adds More Color To The Santos And Santos-Dumont

Cartier watches are known for their characteristic dial designs. The most eye-catching feature must be those black lacquered Roman numerals on a stark white or silver background. But that doesn t mean the designers at Cartier don t know how to incorporate color into their watches. Look, for example, at the red, green, and blue Tank Must designs that were introduced at Watches and Wonders in 2021. Well, this year, Cartier gives the Santos and Santos-Dumont models a colorful treatment.When I think of Cartier, the first things that come to mind are those glorious Roman numerals. But in terms of full watches, the Santos is always the model at the forefront of my consciousness. I guess that s bec...

IWC Drops A New Ingenieur Collection

IWC just released a brand-new collection of Ingenieur sports watches with integrated bracelets. This is an iconic form factor in the brands rich history, so a return to the stage makes a great deal of sense. For Watches and Wonders 2023, IWC finally delivered the long-awaited successor to the model that debuted in 1955 - or, more accurately, to Gerald Gentas 1976 redesign of the Ingenieur. This new collection follows the sports-watch template that Genta set in the 1970s.We get a total of four new IWC Ingenieur references, three in steel and one in Grade 5 titanium. The steel model comes in black (IW328901), silver (IW328902), and aqua/Petronas (IW328903) dial variants. The titanium model (IW...

Grand Seiko Introduces The SBGZ009 Majestic White Birch

Sometimes brands introduce timepieces that only need images to tell the entire story. The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 Majestic White Birch is one of those timepieces. Looking at the pictures, you know this is not a normal release. The fully hand-engraved platinum Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is part of the brand s special Masterpiece collection and will see a limited run of just 50 pieces. This new Majestic White Birch takes inspiration from a familiar Grand Seiko theme. However, its execution is unique, and it displays the incredible craftsmanship that Grand Seiko puts into its watches.What defines a horological masterpiece? Is it the technical magic behind the movement, or does it have to do with the w...

Introducing: Six New Panerai Radiomir Models For 2023

Panerai adds a whopping six new models to its Radiomir lineup. The drop ranges from simple new 8 Giorni variants to annual calendars in precious metals. This, my dear Fratelli, is the year of the Radiomir. Lets have a closer look at these new additions from Panerai.The Panerai Radiomir is a bit of a personal favorite of mine, although I have not quite come around to buying one just yet. I love the pebble-like feel of the cushion case and its pairing with the diamond crown and wire lugs. I like the Luminor, but I love the Radiomir. So when the time came to divide the workload for Watches and Wonders, I quickly volunteered to cover Panerais Radiomir bonanza.Some historical perspectiveThis is n...

Cartier Presents A New Tank Americaine And Louis Cartier

Here we go, folks! Watches and Wonders 2023 has officially opened its doors! Though Czapek got a half-hour head start with its releases this morning, Cartier is following hot on its heels. This is one of the brands that I was most looking forward to seeing new watches from this year, and these releases don t disappoint. Among other things, the French maison is releasing an updated Tank Americaine and a few playful variations of the Tank Louis Cartier. They re all new but still very recognizable and unmistakably Cartier. Let s check them out!Overall, Cartier speaks one of the most distinctive design languages in the watch industry. That s why many of the brand s designs, even though they have...

Grand Seiko Introduces The Brilliant SLGC001 Tentagraph

It seems like only yesterday that Grand Seiko expanded its Evolution 9 collection with a string of new releases during Watches and Wonders 2022. Among the new timepieces was the spectacular SBGE285 Mist Flake, which is one of my favorite GMT watches. This year, Grand Seiko has a smaller number of new releases for Watches and Wonders, but an absolute standout is the new Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph. This new chronograph is a new member of the Evolution 9 collection. On top of that, it s the brand s first all-mechanical chronograph. A Hi-Beat chronograph, to be more precise. Time to find out more.Briefly going back to last year, I found all the new additions to Grand Seiko s Evolution 9 coll...

The New Zenith Pilot Automatic And Pilot Big Date Flyback

If you love aviation timepieces, you ll likely know that Zenith is the only brand that can use the word Pilot on a watch dial. In 1904, Zenith trademarked the English term, and the Le Locle brand certainly has not let it go to waste. In 1909, a Zenith watch cemented the brand s place in history, accompanying Louis Bleriot on humankind s first flight across the English Channel. And with a nearly ever-present lineup of pilot s watches in its catalog, Zenith has upheld its reputation in the genre ever since. That does not mean, however, that the watches always looked alike. The Zenith Pilot line has seen many variations through the years, and most recently, it had a distinct early-1900s aesthet...

Czapek Antarctique Watches And Wonders 2023 Releases

Czapek already surprised us with a unique new dial in the Antarctique Dark Sector a few weeks ago. Today, we get a total of three new dial styles between the Antarctique and Antarctique S. Usually, when we hear a brand merely release a couple of dials, we roll our eyes and think, Thats a tad lazy! But not this time. Czapek s designers approach dials like they do everything else - with an obsessive eye for detail. So lets have a look at some new dials that are exceedingly complex to develop and produce.Todays Czapek releases include a skeletonized Antractique as well as mother-of-pearl and Japanese-fabric-inspired Antarctique S models. Without further ado, lets dive in.Czapek Antarctique Reve...

The New Ulysse Nardin Freak One

If you don t know Ulysse Nardin or the fact that the brand has a history dating back to 1846, what s your first impression? Even a glance at the new Freak One will make you think of disruptive small independent takes on Haute Horlogerie from the likes of MB&F, Vianney Halter, or URWERK. And therein lies the charm of the Freak. In fact, it says a lot about Ulysse Nardin as a brand. In 2023, a storied Swiss brand with a rich back catalog will invariably tap into our love for vintage, but Ulysse Nardin takes a bolder path. The Freak is all about shaping trends, not following them, with a 22-year-old rotating wonder that remains a futurist vision.There is a lateral automotive reference that ...

Vintage Heuer Lookalikes: Carrera Connection For Less

Im not much of a chronograph wearer, though many fellow enthusiasts are. It is a whole subclass of collecting that I never really engaged with but that clearly has its experts. Theres the racing-chronograph crowd, the military-chronograph hobbyists, lovers of aviation or dress chronos, and even the diving-chronograph enthusiasts. For each class of watch, theres usually a chronograph option and a fanbase along with it. One of the most well-regarded chronographs ever made has to be the Heuer Carrera. However, vintage Heuer pieces from the 1960s command big prices. Dont fret, though. There are some relatively unknown vintage gems out there for those interested.But first, very briefly, the Carre...

Bvlgari Presents Nine Octo Roma No elties For 2023

Bvlgaris highly anticipated spring showcase is touting ancestral heritage and modern Italian flair. After a reigning decade of the Octo Finissimo, The Roman Jeweler has decided to put some love into the little brother of the Octo family. Step forward, Octo Roma. Getting the full stage to shine and make a splash is a swathe of novelties. With three new automatics, two chronographs, and four tourbillons, the new Octo Roma references are set to be sartorial crowd-pleasers.?Bvlgari recently bid a mysterious farewell to its iconic hero line, the Octo Finissimo, as we covered here. Of course, it begs the question of what may come next. Although the brand just released the US-only Octo Finissimo Tu...