Perpetual 1908: You Asked For Something Different

December 02, 2014

If is good at one thing, it s making incremental improvements to its existing collections. Watches that have been in the catalog for decades - you all know them. It s also exactly this strategy that sometimes earns negative feedback from the watch community. With the introduction of the new Perpetual 1908, the brand shows that it can do something new.Perpetual 1908This new model is a homage to the year when founder Hans Wilsdorf started to use as the brand name on his watches. The 39mm Perpetual 1908 is a dressier watch that shows some similarities with the famous Cellini collection. It s an elegant-looking piece with a height of just 9.5mm, and it is only available in precious metals.The bezel on the Perpetual 1908 is partly domed and partly fluted. And did you see the hour hand on these watches? Instead of the Mercedes logo, it is now a plain circle, which gives it a distinctive look.See-through case back is on a roll with its see-through case backs. Not only did the Daytona receive one, but so did the Perpetual 1908, which allows its owner to admire its 7140 movement. Caliber 7140 is a new movement that has all of the brand s watchmaking technology on board. Chronergy escapement, Syloxi hairspring, and Paraflex shock absorbers? Check, check, and check. Unlike the hidden caliber 3xxx series that uses, this new caliber 7140 has wonderful decoration. This includes beautiful C?tes de Geneve decoration on the bridges and a skeletonized 18K gold rotor to make you smile.The Syloxi hairspring has a patented geometry, which ensures that it performs equally well in any position. It is made of silicon, of course, and fully developed and produced in-house. does not disappoint when it comes to movement development in recent times. Last but not least, the caliber 7140 has a power reserve of 66 hours.Four versions of the Perpetual 1908There are two Perpetual 1908 watches in 18K yellow gold, and two in 18K white gold. Of each version, there is a watch with a black or white dial. All four references come with an alligator strap with a matte finish and a double-folding clasp in the corresponding gold material.The white-dial models come with a brown alligator strap, and the black-dial versions with a black alligator strap. Although you should avoid water with an alligator strap, the watch does have a water resistance rating of 50 meters.Impressive dialsThe yellow gold models have the same reference 52508, despite the dial variation. The white gold models have reference 52509. All dials have beautiful gold numerals and hour markers. At 6 o clock, there s the sub-dial for the small seconds, and above it, you ll find the words Superlative Chronometer written. Both the minute track and seconds track give the watch a vintage vibe.Initial thoughts on the Perpetual 1908Now, this is a watch that I did not see coming from . I ve enjoyed looking at the Cellini models but have never really warmed up to them myself. The Perpetual 1908 looks different and is a bit more toned down, making it a perfect candidate for a dress watch.The Perpetual 1908 is a pretty nice dress piece at first glance. Some might feel that 39mm is a bit too large for a dress watch, but it looks sleek and has a relatively thin case, and I guess it s something you need to try first. If possible, that is. The yellow gold versions (ref. 52508) have a retail price of CHF 21,000, while the white gold versions (ref. 52509) have a price tag of CHF 22,200. For a gold with a gold folding clasp, that doesn t sound like it is overpriced.Watch specifications Brand Model Perpetual 1908Reference 52508 (yellow gold) / 52509 (white gold)Dial Black / white with applied Arabic numerals and stick markersCase Material Yellow gold (52508) / White gold (52509)Case Dimensions 39mm (diameter) 9.5mm (thickness) 20mm (lug spacing)Crystal SapphireCase Back Sapphire Movement 7140 - self-winding movement, chronometer-certified, 38 jewels, 28,800vph (4Hz) frequency, 66-hour power reserveWater Resistance 5ATM (50m)Strap Alligator strap (20mm) with a matte finish and double-folding clasp in goldFunctions Time only (hours, minutes, small seconds)Price CHF 21,000 (ref. 52508) / CHF22,200 (ref. 52509)Warranty International warranty of five years