The Swiss brand Reservoir is known for unusual tool watches that dont follow the usual recipes for dressy, small-vintage, or future-cool. Instead, it inhabits the same instrument sphere as IWC, Bell & Ross, and Porsche Design.For me, being sometimes under a barrage of press releases and Instagram tags, the brand has a big charm of its own, even if the Airfight Chronograph seems to take it all very literally. But judging by these images, this new release is a charmer with a tough ID - or should that be dog tag?Reservoir Airfight Chronograph - First impressionsI like pilots watches, so why isnt there one in my box or on my wrist? Well, size is one thing. I enjoy the larger models with dist...
For as long as I ve been into watches, I ve been a fan of the Ebel Sport Classic models, especially the chronograph version. Its not only about the Zenith El Primero movement inside that ticks at 36,000vph but also the shape of the case and the very thin wave bracelet. Admittedly, it does help that it was the watch that Don Johnson was rocking in his role as Sonny Crockett in Miami Vice. If I m not mistaken, it was one of the first TV shows sponsored by a watch brand. Even guest stars, such as Phil Collins, received an Ebel watch to wear during the show.Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph 1134901When I got interested in watches in the 1990s, Ebel was a big name. Not only professional tennis playe...
A few days ago, announced its acquisition of Bucherer, a multi-brand retail store with over 100 locations worldwide. Thus far, 53 Bucherer locations have operated as authorized dealers for and 48 for Tudor. The Bucherer company also operates a large after-sales service operation for and Tudor watches.Bucherer in Luzern - Image: BuchererBucherer and - Two giantsThe acquisition was an opportunity that seized when the moment was right, as J?rg Bucherer decided to sell the company. The 87-year-old has no direct descendants to inherit the Bucherer chain, which is estimated to do about 2 billion Swiss francs in annual sales.J?rg Bucherer - Image: The RakeBucherer stores go back to 1888, when ...
The Neuchatel-based watchmaker HYT?launched into the horological universe some ten years ago with a hydromechanical watch that indicated the time using brightly colored liquids. Then, earlier this year, HYT brought out the impressive Conical Tourbillon Black Eklipse (limited to just eight pieces). Now the brand has introduced its latest watch, the HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires. This model builds on the Eklipse, offering much of the same except with a different aesthetic twist.Earlier this year, my colleague Lex described the HYT Conical Tourbillon Black Eklipse like a star system within a star system - a system gone rogue. It is a pretty accurate summation of my first impressions...
It is no secret that I am a big fan of IWC, both vintage and modern. The IWC Mark series of pilot s watches are some of the best in the business, and I am the lucky owner of an IWC Mark XV, which was my contender for my go anywhere, do anything watch. Today, I am excited to be writing about IWCs latest introduction in the pilots series, the IWC Pilots Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces (ref. IW326905). This model has a fully luminous dial, IWCs first pilots watch with this feature. Lets take a look.IWC says it has taken inspiration from its collaborations with the U.S. Navy squadrons in making this watch. First off, I have to say that I find the design language pretty enchanting. The dial is wher...
Frederique Constant is about Swiss craftsmanship within a value-driven price band that can inspire a new, younger clientele to value wristwatches. And with this new creation, the brand invites us into a world of complicated, asymmetric dial designs and some pretty impressive features. The Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture could very much have what it takes.But this time, we are treated to a big step up in both materiality and complications as well as two of four models in precious metals. It is also the first time we see Frederique Constant catering to the top-tier collecting community with a limited 35-piece edition in platinum.Frederique Constant Classic Power ...
Choosing to buy and wear a Ressence watch is already somewhat of a statement. The brand s unconventional way of presenting the time on your wrist, in combination with its very clean design language, is different from any other watch out there. But if you d like to take it one step further, you can choose to get a Ressence in one of the striking colors the brand offers. For example, what about this new and super smooth eucalyptus-green version of the Type 3?Although most Ressence watches begin as white, gray, or black versions, the brand is certainly no stranger to using bright and colorful tones on its dials. Look, for example, at the brushed blue Type 1 Round and the sage-green Type 8 S th...
With this years Geneva Watch Days well and truly underway, we now have something new from Bvlgari to share. The watchmaking jewelers, as they refer to themselves, add two new models to the Octo Finissimo range. Or, rather, two existing models get rebuilt in a combination of forged carbon and gold. And the result is rather striking to look at!Bvlgari has taken its Octo Finissimo Automatic Small Seconds and its Perpetual Calendar back to the case maker for new exoskeletons. Lets have a closer look at the resulting new models.Octo Finissimo Automatic CarbonGoldThe first model to get the CarbonGold treatment is the Octo Finissimo Automatic. This is the base model of the Octo Finissimo range, tim...
When Oris released the Upcycle Aquis with dials made of melted PET ocean plastic, it was a novel and radical approach to incorporating ocean plastics into a watch. It resulted in unique watches (both conceptually and individually) that have become fan favorites and conversation starters. Now Oris is back with another collaboration, a pair of watches championing ocean clean-up, and incorporating upcycled materials into dials. The Oris Bracenet Aquis takes a similar approach as the Upcycle Aquis, except this time using discarded ocean ghost nets to create the dials. The result? Swirling blue-green dials that evoke the dream of a pristine ocean.Oris and ocean conservation go hand in hand. The...
Amidst the flurry of new Geneva Watch Days releases, Girard-Perrergaux has just announced the new Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech. This latest release from the brand takes the DNA of the original 1975 Laureato and combines it with the newest materials and contemporary design innovations. Since its introduction in 2019, the Laureato Absolute line has hosted only the most avant-garde versions of the watch. Each combines aesthetic and material interest to culminate in some of the brand s most exciting timepieces. We enter a world where stainless steel is passe, and titanium, sapphire, and carbon reign supreme.Back in January of this year, we saw Girard-Perregaux introduce the new Laureato A...
Theres no denying that Tissot hit the jackpot with the PRX. The quartz, automatic, and chronograph versions of the watch in different sizes and colors are knocking it out of the park. Tissot is riding the PRX wave and is trying to do it for as long as possible. You cant blame them. Especially when that effort means a string of interesting variations on the retro-modern PRX theme. Did you expect a PRX GMT with a flyer ETA movement or maybe even an affordable perpetual calendar iteration? You will have to be patient because first, its time for a series of Tissot PRX Digital watches.You might think that the Tissot PRX Digital is a bit of a far-fetched concept. Well, youre mistaken. Take a look ...
Yes! Finally, I can write about my favorite watch that I saw at this year s Watches and Wonders event! Today, it was publicly introduced at Geneva Watch Days. Let the cat out of the bag; it s the new Oris AquisPro 4000M. Now Oris has a pointless, hors categorie?dive watch of its own. And compared to other well-known pointless dive watches, this might be my favorite.In our Fratello Favorites - The Watches And Wonders 2023 Edition article, I mentioned an unmentionable diver. I wrote that all I could say was that it was a very cool dive watch with a blue dial from a brand with an R in its name. As you can learn now, I didn t lie; here it is.Oris AquisPro 4000MHandling the Oris AquisPro 4000M, i...
The Artelier collection is seldom spoken about in the Oris enthusiast community. Considering that the Aquis, Big Crown, and Divers Sixty-Five range regularly grace the Fratello site, its surprising that the Artelier receives such little airtime. I asked Oris co-CEO Rolf Studer why that is, and he answered that the Artelier mostly gains appreciation in its home nation of Switzerland. Will these two additions to the Artelier collection breach the borders and gain appreciation outside the homeland? Lets find out.When I spoke to Studer about the Artelier collection, it was at the same time that I was buying an Artelier model of my own, the Calibre 112. I later sold this watch during my house mov...
Welcome back to another riveting episode of Fratello On Air. This week, were back as a duo, and we have much to discuss. The news looms large, and so do the upcoming Geneva Watch Days. Of course, we add several additional topics around new releases, shoes, and recent get-togethers for good measure. This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Geneva Watch Days 2023 is here, but the show is secondary news for some. made massive waves with its recent purchase of Bucherer. Intriguing! New watches and new shoes are also on our minds. Meeting up with watch friends and fellow collectors has made a triumphant return in the big cities afte...
With the ever-more fervent emphasis on alternative propulsion and me, a diehard petrolhead, driving an electric car, is motor racing still relevant? It is if it s done right, especially when the inspiration comes in the form of Easter eggs rather than completely spelled out. And in the Laurent Ferrier Serie Atelier V Sport Auto 40, the clues are as subtle as they are colorful.Laurent Ferrier has come to the fore as the quietly spoken alternative for the collector who already has a Patek and a few grails. For me, though, it s also the choice of a more discerning breed of collector. The brands image is one of understated style, with a certain motor racing cachet for those in the know, as Laur...
Two years after debuting the Nuit Fantastique, Trilobe presents its brand-new guilloche edition at Geneva Watch Days 2023. The highlight is the dual guilloche patterns on the dial, offering a mesmerizing textural contrast. The model comes in a gray shade that the French brand aptly names brume. As with all Trilobe models, the watch is designed in France and meticulously crafted in Switzerland. Furthermore, it upholds Trilobe s concept of a singular time display.The Paris-based independent brand has this knack for crafting watches that encapsulate timeless elegance while also pushing the boundaries. This essence is evident in the Une Folle Journee (Crazy Day) models we have previously reviewe...
One of the first things I think of when talking about Doxa is the brand s use of bright colors for its dials and straps. Doxa employs a wide variety of vivid tones that stand out immediately with the characteristic design of the watches. The Whitepearl models showed that white also matches the aesthetic perfectly. Additionally, with the Doxa Army timepieces, we saw a different style despite still being colorful. And with the Sub 300T Clive Cussler, we saw that a worn and beaten look also works. Today, with the introduction of the new Sub 300 Sharkhunter, Doxa shows that a stealthy version with a gold sparkle works miracles. It transforms the hardcore dive watch into a great-looking, stylish...
Generally, there is not a whole lot of buzz surrounding Ulysse Nardin. But every time the Le Locle brand releases a new technological marvel, we are stunned by the incredible craftsmanship. Indeed, some of the technological wizardry is quite astounding. With the new Blast Free Wheel Marquetry, Ulysse Nardin presents a watch that had me reading the press release multiple times. A first glance might tell you how the watch looks, but you need the context to understand what makes this timepiece so special. Once again, Ulysse Nardin has us paying attention to its latest release.When I think of the Ulysse Nardin timepieces that blew me away, the Blast Hourstriker that Balazs wrote about immediatel...
When speaking of innovation in watchmaking, we quickly jump to developments in watch movements. Things like new complications, finishing techniques, creative new architecture, downsizing, and upsizing draw our attention. But there is a lot of innovation going on beyond the movement. In this article, I want to explore significant innovations that have nothing to do with the beating heart of the watch.From innovations in materials to added features and resistance to extreme conditions, it is all part of the development of the humble watch. Lets dive in!Innovation in water resistanceThe dive watch as we know it today has only been around since the early 1950s. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms lived ...
A budget of $3K seems like enough to pick some amazing timepieces. What I found, though, was that it was a pretty hard task. It s not that there weren t enough options, but what were the ones that ticked all the personal boxes? As it turned out, there weren t all that many that truly made my heart sing. Nevertheless, I did find a trio of watches that I would love to wear every day. Even better, I found five if you include my pre-owned pick and a secret new option that only qualifies in certain parts of the world. It s not as exciting as it might sound, but it is quite a wonderful way to round out my list of the best watches under $3,000.With many of the Fratello writers having already reveal...
