For the horology enthusiasts gathered at Watches and Wonders Shanghai, Ulysse Nardin now unveils the newest evolution of the Freak collection - the Freak X OPS. Few timepieces in the annals of Haute Horlogerie have disrupted conventions and reshaped the narrative as dramatically as Ulysse Nardin s iconic Freak.Introduced in 2001, this avant-garde marvel was a horological game changer, eschewing dials, hands, and even crowns. Fast-forward to 2019, and Ulysse Nardin once again set the watchmaking sphere abuzz with the launch of the Freak X. A modern iteration, the Freak X retained its forerunner s fearless essence. While it finally embraced a crown, it still forwent the traditional dials and h...
Were not all lucky enough to have been able to buy the watches we wanted 20 years (or longer) ago. Everything has become much more expensive, not only watches, of course. But what if you want to own a vintage Omega Speedmaster today?Theres good news and bad news. Lets start with the bad news. Any Speedmaster with caliber 321 is, in collectors condition, priced above $10,000. Even the last generation (reference 145.012-67) now commands a five-digit price. Its a pity because a vintage caliber-321-powered Omega Speedmaster (Professional) from the 1960s was, at least to purists, the watch that went to the Moon. For a long time, considering its historical significance, it was also an incredibly a...
I love the unpredictable output of Max Bsser and Friends with their M.A.D. (acronym pun intended) timepieces. That last word is one I d like to avoid as I find it too vague, too pompous even. But anything emanating from the M.A.D. house is pretty far from a mere wristwatch. This, of course, also includes the new M.A.D.1 Green.This year, I had the joy of attending Geneva Watch Days, and the large suite of Max Bsser and his friendly team is always a favorite. Sure, they didn t have the Pandamonium piece to show me, but I finally got my hands on the magnanimously priced upside-down (and sideways) M.A.D.1 Green. I say finally because while this is a new color, it is the third version of the br...
Some brands fit their watches with a dial made out of recycled plastics. Others combine a watch with a strap made out of old fishing nets. These, among other things, are all initiatives to make watches feel more sustainable. Nowadays, sustainability is a feature that contributes positively to the value of a watch. But what would happen if sustainability weren t just a bonus feature? What if it were an integral part of the design process? Well, come take a look at how Cedric Bellon, a true advocate of sustainability himself, tried to make one of the most sustainable watches out there. This is the CB01 GMT NK90 COSC Chronometer.Cedric Bellon is a watch designer who has worked with big brands l...
We re back with an electrifying episode of Fratello On Air. Balazs is on the mend, and we ve decided to have a go at quartz watches. Yes, we realize that some of our listeners may not feel any love for these battery-powered beasts. Nevertheless, we ve come up with a quartet of interesting pieces. Oh, and we will, of course, touch upon the recent SwatchPain. This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Quartz watches are a controversial topic on enthusiast sites like Fratello. Sterile, a once-upon-a-time killer of the Swiss watch industry, and often cheap, quartz is a tough topic. Still, quartz has been around for over 50 years now, a...
In the ornate corridors of horology, every tiny detail can sway our perceptions and experiences. From the rhythmic cadence of a tourbillon to the tactile feel of a bezel, every element and each nuance matters. Among these nuances, the unassuming crystal plays a pivotal role. It acts as a window into the watch, allowing us to read the time while protecting the delicate mechanics within. But as with any window, it can be clouded by the interruptions of glare and reflection. Enter the unsung hero for watch photographers worldwide - antireflective (AR) coatings. This sophisticated technology breathes life into the crystal, minimizing glare and allowing unfettered visibility and legibility.Delvin...
As of today, Seikos Presage collection has three new models to underline the art of dial-making. The brand has added two urushi (Japanese for lacquer) dials and one enamel dial to the Presage Craftsmanship Series. Unlike many other brands, Seiko likes to share the names of the artisans behind new creations. The enamel dial has been done by Seikos master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, while the the urushi dials have been produced by lacquer master Isshu Tamura and his team.Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series SPB403, SPB405, and SPB407We received all of these new Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series models for closer inspection. All three watches represent traditional Japanese crafts in...
I hate to admit it, but we are at the tail end of the summer in Europe. And its been pretty amazing, but with this weeks mix of 13C16 degrees, windy rain, and flooding, an Indian summer seems out of the question. This gave me time to think and raised a rhetorical question amid a(nother) consolidation attempt. Are my watches seasonal, and do I need to view them differently because of this?Half of you might have realized this already and will consider me a bit slow on the uptake, but Ive learned something (stop laughing in the back). My watch collection is seasonal. The lucky readers with temperate tee-and-shorts weather all year round will not see my point. Here in northern Europe, though, I ...
Why wait until Tuesday if you can wear an Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project on Monday? I took a peek inside RJs Speedy Vault and stared into the frosty face of what I think is the coolest Speedy of all time, the 2008 limited-edition Alaska Project. Okay, the original, 1970 Alaska Project II prototypes are even frostier, but those live in the unreachable realm of mythical watches. The 1,970 Alaska Project Speedmaster models may be hard to get nowadays, but theyre still (somewhat) within reach.If you want to know all there is to know about the Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project you see on my wrist, please read the article The Original Alaska II and the 2008 Re-Edition. Today, I will keep it perso...
During the Watches and Wonders event earlier this year, Vacheron Constantin unveiled new 34.5mm and 35mm case diameters for its famed Overseas Self-Winding collection. The lineup features steel and pink gold models for the 34.5mm size and gem-set pink gold models for the 35mm size. In welcoming American artist Zaria Forman into its circle of One of Not Many talents, the brand is extending the Overseas Self-Winding 35mm collection with a pink gold model adorned with diamonds and a matching dial.Womens spending power is the story of the season. Billion-dollar grosses from the likes of the Barbie movie as well as the Beyonce and Taylor Swift tours are making headlines not just in entertainment ...
Watch brands most expensive offerings are often awe-inspiring pieces, whether visually stunning, technically mesmerizing, or both. But at Fratello, we have found that they are usually more of a cognitive tour de force than actually desirable. I admire a ceramic open-worked Royal Oak with a flying tourbillon, sure. But if I had AP money, I would get 37mm Royal Oak in steel with a blue dial. Whats up with that?I have found the above to be true for many aficionados and collectors, from novice to seasoned. For some reason, the most expensive offerings arent usually the most attractive to us. It is a topic worth exploring, and I am looking forward to reading your opinions in the comments below t...
As a young kid, I played with Lego blocks, miniature cars, and trains, but when Hasbro released the Transformers toys and an animated TV show alongside them, I was hooked. This was before the first game console or computer entered the Broer residence. I still have most of my Transformers, some of them more complete than others (they had a lot of pieces!), but I cherish them as they remind me of my happy childhood.Byrne Gyro Dial ZeroWhen I opened the box we received from Byrne with this Gyro Dial Zero, I had a little flashback to the mid-1980s when I was sitting on the floor playing with Optimus Prime, Tracks, and Inferno (you can all look them up on eBay). Now, the Byrne Gyro Dial Zero is f...
Welcome to another edition of Sunday Morning Showdown. We are slowly returning to a normal routine after Geneva Watch Days 2023 and the great buzz surrounding the introduction of the Blancpain Swatch Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms Collection. For this week s battle, we have picked two recently released affordable GMT watches. One is the Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT that came out earlier this year. It s going up against the Seiko Prospex SPB379, also known among watch fans as the Alpinist GMT. The GMT version of Seiko s Alpinist was introduced last week, much to the delight of many Alpinist fans. Will it be able to beat the C65 Dune GMT? Time to find out!The market for affordable GMT watch...
Once again, we covered Geneva Watch Days this year, and what a show it was! I had two intense days there filled with big impressions from small brands. And within the barrage of glamour from these contemporary grails, some impressions remain on my wrist. Should I leave it unwashed for luck?I was unhappy last year, having to stay home for the third GWD, so it was good to be back. Sure, the brands were in the same locations this year, but theres a difference. After Jean-Christophe Babins first kick-off in 2020, the event has continued to evolve, and missing a year made me see it. As an intimate space where the brands get up close and personal, its simply my favorite kind of watch fair, and it ...
This certainly won t be my last article about vintage Grand Seiko on Fratello, but it does represent a milestone. The Grand Seiko 44GS is easily my favorite vintage reference from the brand and one that definitely belongs in any collection. This is a landmark piece with highly unique styling and world-beating finishing. I couldn t be happier to finally add one.In 2013, I was fortunate enough to pick up a lightly used SBGW047, the relatively faithful reissue of the Grand Seiko 44GS. This was and is a highly collectible piece that does a nice job of mimicking the watch that we will discuss today. If I travel back to that time, I can still recall reading the announcement article and getting exc...
Another Friday, another Top 5! Last week, we took a look at five of the best extreme dive watches out there right now. It seems like you Fratelli take quite a liking to these over-the-top divers. And along with the Oris AquisPro 4000m, it was great to see how much love there is for Seiko s famous Tuna models. This week s Top 5, however, is about a completely different topic. It s all about salmon dials. First of all, we admit that salmon is quite a loose term as these dials colors differ quite a lot between brands. Secondly, salmon dials seem to be perfect for limited editions rather than standard-production models. Recently, though, we have seen quite a few stunning watches with salmon dia...
It s not necessarily our MO to report on every new color addition that makes its way to the market. However, when a watch is in the form of the legendary A386 El Primero, it always catches our attention. The latest version of the Zenith Chronomaster Original completes the collection by bringing a logical option for buyers. Namely, there s now a black dial with the familiar three-colored sub-dials.I must admit that I was truly excited to write up the Zenith Chronomaster Original models when they came out back in July 2021. As an A386 owner, I always couldn t help but wonder why Zenith had largely ignored its most famous classic watch. Sure, there were plenty of limited-edition models, and mod...
Introducing a new masterpiece from the artists at Louis Moinet - the Jules Verne Tourbillon To the Moon. As one of the true independents of artisanal Swiss watchmaking, Louis Moinet is a brand we follow closely. Todays release is something rather special and limited to just eight watches. Its USP? How about a combination of a tourbillon and a piece of the Moon to wear on your wrist?Lets have a closer look at this latest Louis Moinet creation, for which you can pick your preferred piece of lunar material if you are lucky enough to snag one.Louis Moinet Jules Verne TourbillonLet me kick things off with the watch itself. The Jules Verne Tourbillon will be released in three variants. This To the...
There s something about summer that changes the rules when it comes to watches. The smaller, dressy, cuff-friendly ones get a break in favor of big, bold, colorful pieces. Vintage Omega Constellations give way to Ploprofs, Reversos stand aside for Seiko Tunas, and Cartier Tanks bow out in favor of Panerais. Whether it s the heat or lack of long sleeves to contend with, big watches thrive in the summertime. Crafter Blue, the Hong-Kong-based purveyor of rubber straps turned watch brand, knows this well. This is why the brand chose this season to introduce its latest chunky dive chronograph. The new Crafter Blue Hyperion Ocean Chronograph in Arctic Blue is here to make a splash.A couple of year...
The TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox was one of our favorite releases at this year s Watches and Wonders in Geneva. No wonder the brand is using that model to celebrate the 60th anniversary of both the TAG Heuer Carrera and the Porsche 911 (originally called 901). It comes in both stainless steel and rose gold, and its design pays tribute to the Porsche 901 s sprint from zero to 100km/h in 9.1 seconds. And - spoiler alert - it features a decelerating chronograph seconds hand to mimic the movement of a speedometer s needle. Let s take a look at the all-new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint Porsche.At the Internationale Automobil-Ausstellung Frankfurt (IAAF) in 1963, now exactly 60 years ago, Porsche...
