Another Friday, another list! Last week, we explored five of the many vintage Tudor options out there. For this week, we decided to dip our toes into the extensive world of Omega Speedmasters. Of course, we have our series of Speedy Tuesday articles to explain everything there is to know about the famous chronograph. But for this week s Top 5, in light of the release of the new Speedmaster FOiS, we focused on modern Omega Speedmaster models with straight-lug cases. Let s find out what your best options are!Before getting into the list, it s good to remind ourselves of the original Speedmasters with straight-lug cases. The first reference was CK2915, and CK2998, 105.002, and 105.003 followed....
Geneva Watch Days is the year s second-largest watch fair after Watches and Wonders. While the brands, except for a slight overlap, are different, many journalists love the show for several reasons. Unlike the ultra-controlled Watches and Wonders event, GWD allows us to sit directly with brands and their watches in a laid-back, casual atmosphere. Often, we may even see something that has yet to be released or come home with a watch for a review, saving shipping time and hassle. That is how I got my hands on the new Nivada Chronoking Mecaquartz Inter.bezel.If you feel like you re experiencing deja vu, don t worry - you re not. The Chronoking Mecaquartz has been out for a while; I even reviewe...
It has been a while since I published a Pre-Owned Spotlight, so I figured I should return in style with watches I can only dream of owning and wearing. Today, I will go on a pretend shopping spree for a pre-owned, high-end chronograph. Do I need a pre-owned, high-end chronograph? Yes, I do, thank you very much. Hear me out: I have a deep passion for pizza, and I cannot see the ovens timer from where I sit on the couch. I honestly dont have a clue how I could solve this terrible conundrum without a Haute Horlogerie chronograph.So, with that justification out of the way - my wife doesnt buy it… - lets explore three fantastic chronographs that would surely get the job done.Image: European...
The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary is the dressiest release from the trio of red gold beauties. Its inky black dial and traditional case design make it a beauty that can be worn in various situations. Today, we ll look at this complicated chronograph in more detail.I remember when the Premier returned in 2019. I reviewed a 42mm panda-dial automatic and was impressed with the finishing. Since then, Breitling has introduced more Premier models, including a hand-wound version in a 40mm case. More complicated versions came in 2021 with the Datora and Duograph. The Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar is the most audacious offering yet and is part of a trio celebrating...
Would you believe me if I told you we have never featured a dedicated article about a vintage Nivada Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver article on Fratello? I had to check twice, but it s true. Let s fix this with a scarce version of the Nivada CASD. This one is one is ref. 85004/4076, aka the Orange Boy.The Nivada Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver is one of the very few chronographs that got tens of different executions and dial/hand configurations. Created in 1961, the watch stayed in catalogs through the 70s. The CASD reached iconic status (among watch lovers, at least), and it s a stable pillar in many chronograph collections. It can be found under different brand names, signed with different ...
The Seiko SKX007 is one of the most popular entry-level mechanical watches ever produced, period. But is it still worth adding one to your collection in 2024, even though it was discontinued five years ago? Let s find out.The Seiko SKX007 s popularity is no small feat, even for a large and culturally powerful manufacturer like Seiko. The SKX007 succeeded the Seiko 7002-7000 back in 1996 and would stay in production for nearly a quarter century until 2019. The Seiko 7002-7000 was the 1980s successor of the 6309-7040/9, which spawned the Seiko Turtle of today. If you want to read more about those vintage 6309s, you can check out this article. Today, though, we are not discussing the Seiko Turt...
The Longines Heritage collection is my favorite one in the brand s catalog. I especially like the Sector Dial, but many other models are also tastefully done. Last year, Longines added the Flagship Heritage Moonphase to the collection. Lex looked at the version with a silver sunburst dial, but blue and matte silver versions also came out. Now Longines has added green, anthracite, and beige versions to the lineup. However, the definition of beige might have been stretched a bit here.I just read Lex s hands-on introduction article to see what he thought about the Flagship Heritage Moonphase. His biggest takeaway was that it s a very elegant-looking watch, but its thickness is a bit out of prop...
Today, on Fratello Talks, the topic of discussion is limited-edition watches. Nacho, RJ, and Daan share their thoughts on brands special releases because not all LEs are created equal. The discussion starts with some favorite limited editions and gets into the nitty-gritty of what makes some LEs better than others. They also dive into different methods of limiting these special watches, from small production runs to numbered releases. But what is it that, ultimately, makes a limited-edition watch great? Tune in to hear their thoughts. But before we start, let s check out what s on their wrists.This video is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings This ...
The Louis Moinet Starman is the latest release from the small Swiss brand that specializes in creating rare and extraordinary watches. The brand often blends exotic materials with high-level complications. Because of their low production numbers, Louis Moinet watches aren t for everyone, but they re always worth a look.Every release from Louis Moinet is worth further investigation. Owner and Creative Director Jean-Marie Schaller is a fun person to speak with, and while he and his team create serious watches, they seem to have fun while doing it. We ve seen that during events like Geneva Watch Days, and it s a breath of fresh air after so many hotel-room discussions. The newest model, the Sta...
Jacques Bianchi has quickly found a place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts who love the brand s history and timepieces. With numerous notable releases, the brand has stood out more than once in the past three years. The first ones that come to mind are, without a doubt, the models with illustrations on the dial. From a diver on the dial of the JB200 Meduse to an octopus on the dial of the JB200 PoulPro and the limited-edition JB200 Night Diver that we collaborated on with the brand, they stand out immediately. Another future fan favorite is the new JB200 Maxi Dial. This model is more serious in its approach and will be part of the brand s permanent collection starting in early 2025.When th...
It might still be a niche brand in numbers and worldwide sales, but Kurono has built a strong following for its colorful wares. Hajime Asaokas accessible brand seems to have come at the right time for the small-case trend, but for Sensei, this is nothing new. But by introducing the Kurono Tokyo Reserve de Marche Sensu N.O.S., he opens up a new leaf in his book of dial designs.Asaoka-san designed his first watch with a 37mm case. With its enigmatic 15mm balance wheel and big barrel, the Tsunami ushered in the Art Deco style he is known for, which has carried over to the accessible Kurono Tokyo range. With deep urushi (lacquer) dials plus a balance of minimalist three-handers and multicolored ...
Let me put it this way: if you want a crown on the dial, looking at a shield instead doesnt cut it. Luckily, the Age of Alternatives seems to have ended. Yes, some references still play hard to get, but more and more watches that were in high demand over the last few post-COVID years are becoming available - first choices and alternatives alike.When was the last time you made a terrible watch decision? And was that decision a bad one because the watch let you down from a technical point of view or because it just didnt do the job? The immaterial job of not scratching an incessant itch, that is. Chances are, the timepiece was an alternative to something you couldnt get your hands on, and you ...
Louis Vuitton isn t exactly a newcomer to the luxury watch market. However, in the past two years, we ve seen a marked change in the fashion house and how it approaches watches. In 2023, the Tambour reappeared in its most competitive form yet, bearing an integrated bracelet. Earlier this year, a slightly dressier Escale rejoined the lineup. Both of these models make for elegant yet wearable daily watches.Call us skeptics, but when high-fashion or jewelry brands push into the watch market, we pore over the details with our collective fine-toothed combs. Often, these are little more than branding exercises, leaving us watch nerds cold. Louis Vuitton, however, hasn t phoned in its effort. The b...
Panerai is known for its Navy SEALs collection created in honor and in the spirit of the US Navy SEALs. The brand recently released a quartet of new models within that adventure-focused collection. This time, the watches feature a desert theme with beige accents and desert-camo straps.The release consists of four new references - the time-only PAM01518 in steel, the time-and-date PAM01669 in titanium and Carbotech, the chronograph PAM01521 in titanium, and lastly, the GMT PAM01513 in Carbotech. There s plenty to unpack, so lets dive in!Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Navy SEALs PAM01518Reference PAM01518 forms the entry into this new sub-collection (pun intended; I apologize). This is cu...
At first glance, the two new Resolute models in this review look very familiar. But don t be fooled because they are new additions to RZE s Resolute series. One is a beautiful Spruce Green version of the Resolute Pro. RZE created this special edition with Project Forest, an organization with a mission to capture carbon by rewilding Canadas backyards. While it is technically just a new dial color, the story behind it is interesting, and the color is nothing short of stunning. The other addition to the lineup is a date version of the Resolute Pro. This model comes with the same Jet Black enamel dial as the time-only version and will certainly please a lot of watch fans. It s time to find out m...
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss military watches new and old. We re not here to discuss our favorite models, but we hit upon some major themes with these pieces. Some of them come from disgraced regimes, while newer models are similar to high-fashion collabs. Stick around to see what we think!This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Military watches are a deep subject. Books have been written about them, and brands continue to invest in creating new models. We discuss the topic and explain what we like and what makes us uncomfortable.HandglenkskontrolleAfter our quick weather run-down, we jump...
October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. For the third year in a row, Zenith presents a limited-edition watch to support this noble cause. In 2022, the Swiss brand made a Chronomaster Original with a very pink dial. Last year was the Chronomaster Sport s turn, and now the Zenith Defy Skyline lends its dial to raise money. No less than 20% of the proceeds of the 100 limited editions will go to the Susan G. Komen Foundation. Its vision is a world without breast cancer. In the meantime, the Foundation tries to save lives by investing in breakthrough research.Let s take a look at the new 41mm Zenith Defy Skyline in pink, which supports the fight against breast cancer.The 41mm Zenith Defy Skylin...
Aside from making complicated wonders, Glashtte Original has a Vintage Collection that takes inspiration from former models. The Sixties references have consistently been some of my favorites since launching in 2015. During this lengthy production period, the German watchmaker has produced several limited-series models with gorgeous dials. The Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition we ll review today is from late 2023, but it s so pretty that it s worth revisiting.Indeed, the Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition with its gray-black dial debuted in September 2023. However, some examples are still available, and in this environment of non-stop new releases, sometimes it s nice to take a step back a...
Whenever Czapek announces a new Antarctique, I am all ears. The brand s take on a modern sports watch with an integrated bracelet and a touch of 70s flair is one of my favorite models in this genre. The design, the movement, and the craftsmanship that goes into creating these watches make them stand out immediately. Over the past four years, we have seen several stunning dial variations that give every Antarctique a distinct look. With the Antarctique for Milan-based retailer GMT Great Masters Of Time, the brand adds a striking gold-plated dial. It s another special take on a fantastic watch.The event that sparked this new release is not merely a collaboration with the Milanese retailer GMT...
Atelier Wen has enjoyed a meteoric increase in popularity over the past two years. The independent brand has shed a positive light on Chinese watchmaking while producing attractive watches with finishes and materials normally found on more expensive pieces. To celebrate the fans who have brought so much success to the company, a limited-edition Perception Titanium Millesime M is available for order.Since meeting Atelier Wen co-founder Robin Tallendier in London and trying on a Perception, I ve avidly followed the brand s every move. What I ve witnessed is a commitment to continuous improvement. Small changes to the case shape, bracelet design, and other tweaks have improved the fit and fini...
