To start this article, let me ask a quick question: can an abundance of something good lead to overkill? Let me be a bit more specific. I love the Hamilton Khaki Field collection. It s one of the watch world s most loved and respected series. I adore multiple models, like the white-dial Khaki Field Murph, the black-dial version of the Khaki Field Mechanical in bronze, and the black-dial Khaki Field Auto on the bracelet. And these are just three out of six or seven versions that tickle my fancy. With the introduction of the new Hamilton Engineered Garments Khaki Field Titanium Limited Edition, another one joins that list. But how does it rank among its peers? Let s find out.This new titaniu...
The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony feels like a classic collection that has been around forever. However, you may be surprised to learn that it celebrates only its 20th anniversary this year. Still, it stands on the shoulders of much older VC creations in spirit and style, as we will see in a moment. To mark the occasion, Vacheron Constantin collaborated with designer Ora ?to.?to has carefully pushed the Patrimony Self-Winding into new territories while respecting its heritage. The resulting watch, limited to 100 pieces, is familiar and jarring at the same time. It is a watch worthy of closer inspection.Ref. 6187 from 1957Vacheron Constantin PatrimonyThe Vacheron Constantin Patrimony collecti...
Welcome to this week s episode of?Fratello Talks. Watches are many different things - functional objects, fashion accessories, charming anachronistic timekeeping companions… The list goes on. But one thing they aren t is funny. In the world of watches, the only thing more serious than the timepieces themselves is their prices. But does that mean there s no room for humor and levity in the watch world? That s the question Nacho, RJ, and Lex set out to answer today. In an industry that tends to take itself rather seriously, we look to find rare examples of humor and levity with varying degrees of success. Though not always visible at a glance, when you delve deeper, you can just about id...
Two years ago, British watchmakers Fears and Garrick joined forces. Together, they presented the aptly named Fears Garrick. Fears ensured the watch looked charming and elegant, like a true gentleman. Garrick was there to impress us with the exposed balance wheel and the overall finishing of the watch. Now the two parties are back with a new version - the Fears Garrick. This time, it has a frosted salmon dial and is limited to just five pieces.These are available exclusively through independent watch retailer Collective Horology, the first American retailer for both Fears and Garrick. Let s take a quick look at this very exclusive version of the Fears Garrick.The Fears Garrick Salmon for Coll...
Two weeks ago, I had the opportunity to attend an event in London hosted by 289 Consulting. Roughly 25 brands attended, and we were free to sit in a casual, albeit dark, environment to view the newest watches. It was an enjoyable day with many highlights. A standout was the new Krayon Anywhere Arborea.Geneva Watch Days 2024 was so crammed with meetings that I could not make the Krayon appointment with Dave, my partner in crime. The relatively young Swiss brand, established in 2013, produces highly complicated, exclusive watches. Reportedly, Krayon makes 40 watches annually, so I figured I would need to wait another year to see one. Then, I received an invitation to the London event. The Anyw...
The year 2024 marks a century since the introduction of the world s first Citizen watch. To celebrate this significant milestone, Citizen has taken a curated selection of 100 watches, split into 12 design categories, from its over-6,000-watch archive on tour. Its first stop was in Tokyo before moving on to New York, and now the traveling exhibition has made its way to Paris. This is where I had a chance to experience this historical overview of Citizen s watchmaking over the past century and speak to some of the folks responsible for its ongoing success. But that s not the only way Citizen has decided to commemorate its first watch turning 100.Officially founded as Citizen in 1930, the brand...
Even if I do favor the cool expressions of indie brands, the majority of my watches are traditional. But my $2K Otsuka Lotec got the strongest reaction Ive ever seen at Geneva Watch Days this year. As usual, I was trying to wear an inoffensive but interesting watch. I didn t want it to clash with brands novelties, but its multiple displays captured much attention.In fact, it worked too well. Quite a few meetings ended with the tables turned as execs or PR people wanted me to tell them about the oddball 40mm charmer. And with $100K all-singing, all-dancing novelties on the table, that says a lot about the value in offbeat charm.Vianney Halter TrioMaking watch designs as different as this is b...
Raymond Weil struck gold with the Millesime, a vintage-inspired watch that won a GPHG award. Belgian comics artist Philippe Francq (1961) also received praise and awards with his Largo Winch series of comic books. The titular character, a Yugoslavian adventurer whose birth name was Largo Winczlav, first appeared in 1990. Since then, 24 graphic novels have come out in French, the original language, and many other languages worldwide, entertaining millions of readers. The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch comes out in a universal watch language and will entertain just 300 watch and comic book fans.What I found most appealing about the vintage-inspired Millesime Tri...
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, your hosts discuss the vintage watches currently tickling their collective fancies. Before that, though, there s plenty of banter about sneakers and watches. For your convenience, watch content starts after 20 minutes.Vintage watches are some of our favorites. We re always looking and thinking about what to buy next. In this episode, you ll hear about what has us searching auction sites and sale boards. We also discuss the vintage market and the watches that will become popular (again).HandgelenkskontrolleChristmas came early in Germany and England. Mike received his Nike Air Tech Challenge 2s via the eBay authentication program,...
We watch collectors come up with rules regarding our hobby. For example, Every watch collection should have a dress watch, a sporty piece, and a beater. This is the imperative many of us live by. While the former two may not be the cornerstones of my collection, at least not intentionally, I do have a beater - not in the classical sense, though. I dont wear a watch at home while sleeping, gardening, or changing the oil in my 72 Porsche 911 (that I dont own). However, I have a special piece that accompanies me almost every time I hop on a plane, which I do often, or jump in the car to drive however many hundreds of kilometers. Meet my beloved Casio G-Shock GW-B5600-2ER.Listeners of the Fratel...
When you think of Yema watches, you probably think of vintage-inspired divers, chronographs, and GMTs. But put all your preconceived notions aside for a moment because this new watch is something else. In collaboration with artist and watchmaker Alain Silberstein, the French brand introduces the Marine. It s a limited edition of 500 pieces that doesn t look like anything Yema has done before.If you know a bit about Alain Silberstein, then you probably won t be all that surprised when you look at the black and colorful Marine. But if you re used to the usual offerings from Yema, you might need a minute to adjust. The only hint of vintage here might be the two crowns - the rest looks way more ...
Although forged carbon may not be a precious or rare material, it does count as an exotic option in watchmaking. Mostly reserved for avant-garde creations by high-end brands, it isnt exactly abundant on the affordable end of the spectrum. Well, if Tissot has its way, we can all get a forged carbon sports watch. I spent a week with the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Forged Carbon exclusively on my wrist to see how it stacks up.The forged carbon PRX comes on a rubber strap and is priced at $1,075. That is a $300 premium over the regular steel Powermatic PRX on the steel bracelet. However, for this sum, you also get an upgraded movement with a silicon hairspring. All in all, it s a pretty compelling ...
Have you ever heard of Grendizer and Spazer? Grendizer, also known as Goldorak, is a giant monster robot that connects and synchronizes with Spazer, a flying saucer that enables the robot to fly. FYI, the robot and flying saucer are characters in the 1970s Japanese manga and anime series UFO Robot Grendizer. How do I explain this to a watch audience not up to speed with Japanese animation? Think of Louis Abraham Breguets worlds first sympathique clock first presented in 1798. Its a system consisting of a clock and a pocket watch. When putting the watch in the clocks cradle, it will automatically reset, adjust, and synchronize with the mother clock. Now you know how the robot and his flying s...
Every field has them, and the watch world is no exception. I am talking about people with strong opinions. Heck, I am one, and I work in an office filled with them. And then there is the comments section on Fratello, social media, forums, and YouTube-all full of people with strong opinions. Now, that wouldnt be much of an issue if so much of the feedback weren t negative. But it is, and it can harm our enjoyment of a hobby like watches and horology. Today, I would like to explore earned dogmatism and the Dunning-Kruger effect with you, Fratelli. We take a little break from the watches themselves and venture into how they affect our (online) behavior.So, let me take a time machine to my early...
Adelaide, Australia-based Artem creates some of our favorite high-quality straps. The brand is known for offering sailcloth straps with a rubberized texture. These straps combine leather or rubber with synthetic materials to make a luxury product. Now the Artem HydroFlex presents sportier sailcloth looks and more flexibility. We took a look at the version in khaki green and orange.Artem specializes in producing fantastic aftermarket strap options. The company s straps offer a clean, sporty appearance and use innovative materials. Sailcloth is Artem s primary material of choice, but this is not the typical cloth that fades or becomes ratty. Rather, it s a synthetic water-resistant material wi...
When you think of Fortis watches, the first that comes to mind is probably the famous Cosmonaut s Chronograph. I would agree with that. But if we create a wider context, I would say that the Fortis catalog can be defined by its wide selection of sturdy and modern-looking tool watches. From the Marinemaster to the Flieger and the Stratoliner, they all have an instantly recognizable Fortis design signature. With the introduction of the new Fortis Vagabond V-40, the brand adds a series of GMTs with roots firmly planted in the past to its catalog. However, as you would expect from Fortis, the vintage-inspired design is combined with the best in modern-day production quality. Let s find out more....
The allure of searching vintage and antique shops is strong for me. There is something about the appreciation for things from the past that resonates. Recently, on a trip to one such shop, I discovered a vintage Oris watch in an old suitcase.I saw it glistening inside the morass of trinkets and discarded objects - the unmistakable gleam of the flank of a tiny watch pockmarked with grime and a little surface rust. It was a sunny Australian afternoon, and I was at an antique shop in Sydney with my friend Jack. We had been there looking at some Art Deco furniture for his apartment. The shop sold mostly items discarded by the wealthy residents of Sydney s upmarket areas. This was where its easte...
It s Sunday morning, and you all know what that means. Yes, its time for a cup of coffee and another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown! This week s battle is all about the First Omega in Space. The big question is: which one do you like better? Jorg will make a case for the first-generation Speedmaster FOiS (ref. 311.32.40.30.01.001), while Mike picked the recently released second-generation Speedmaster FOiS (ref. 310.30.40.50.06.001). It will be interesting because these watches are different in many ways. Ultimately, your vote will help determine the victor in this battle of the First Omega in Space models.The first-generation Speedmaster First Omega in Space (FOiS) is a special watch...
As an admittedly vain man, I understand the wristwatch as more than an instrument, embracing its jewelry-like presence. After all, the adage that men are not allowed to wear any other jewelry still rings true, especially when your partner catches another order confirmation pinging on your phone. But to me, functionality is still king, including date windows.I never leave the house without a watch, I sleep with one on most nights, and I feel naked without one. Even with the constant glare of Apple screen lighting from phones and tablets, I still check the time and date on my watch. Yes, unlike many watch enthusiasts these days, I enjoy a date window, which is the most overlooked complication....
Girard-Perregaux has a history spanning over two centuries, and longevity justifies calling the brand a heavyweight watchmaker. GP might be in the shadow of AP and VC, but it more than deserves a light shining on it. Theres a long history of remarkable and unique complications, like the tourbillon with three gold bridges, and then theres a 1970s classic, the Laureato. The current collection holds many variations, of which the recently introduced Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 is an interesting example.The Laureato is a shadow icon. I will not call it an alternative to other luxury sports watches with an integrated bracelet because I dont believe in alternatives - you can read abo...