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Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat

Doxa s Sub 200T is a wonderful underwater companion and underlines the trend toward smaller tool watches. Having debuted just before the start of Watches and Wonders 2024, the Sub 200T was met with broadly positive acclaim. As a truly mid-sized option with a 39mm case diameter and slim profile, it rounds out Doxa s cushion-cased offerings quite nicely.Doxa dive watches have always worn well thanks to short lug-to-lug distances. It s a bit of a design hack that makes a bigger watch fit on all kinds of wrist sizes. As an owner of the regular Sub 300, I can attest to this. The 42mm case sits well on my 16cm wrist thanks to the 45mm lug-to-lug.The Doxa Sub 200T fills a gap in the brand s collect...

Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS And Diver X Skeleton OPS

Ulysse Nardin would not be the first brand I d turn to when considering modern dive watches. But I must admit that the Diver Net OPS and the Diver X Skeleton OPS in this review immediately stood out when I saw the pictures online. Both watches feature a military-inspired camouflage look that I quite like, so when they landed on my desk, I was happy to take them for a spin. As it turns out, there is more to the story than just their looks. It s time to find out more.It s not the first time Ulysse Nardin has released a duo of its divers like these OPS versions. Last year, Nacho wrote an introduction article on the Azure versions of the same watches. While those stood out because of the color c...

The Cutest Vintage Regulator Watch I Have Ever Seen

I had no clue that a watch brand called Solix existed. You have to agree that it sounds more like a brand of construction materials than a watch manufacturer. Despite the weird-sounding brand name, the second I spotted this Solix Regulator, I knew I would bid on it.There are watches that I hunted for years. They include the Mido Radiotime, Seiko Motorist, Montilier Telefoot, Breitling Lucy Digital, and Angelus Medical, to name just a few. But there still are watches I am after, such as the Mido Melik, Gallet Rattrapante, and Mimo Centric. I am not desperate about getting them, but if the opportunity arose, I would not hesitate for one-fifth of a second.Image: Blomman Watch ReportThe Mimo Cen...

Hands-On: Ollech Wajs OW M-52B AF

The legendary B-52 bomber celebrates the 70th anniversary of its production model s maiden flight in 2024. Ollech & Wajs has released the OW M-52B AF to honor this incredible airplane and those who have contributed to its incredibly long lifespan. As someone deeply interested in this machine, I requested a sample piece for a hands-on review.The B-52 Stratofortress is a marvel of a plane that turns 70 this year. While over 700 were built and used extensively during the Cold War, more than 70 remain in active service today. Depending on the reports one reads, the United States Air Force plans on keeping these mighty giants in the arsenal until they are roughly 100 years old. That s an incr...

New: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800

Forget, if you can, about the 38mm Luminor Due Luna with its mother-of-pearl dial. Instead, focus on the 49mm Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID. Is this massive PAM01800 with a case, case back, and bezel in blue Ti-Ceramitech the watch that will relight the fire in the hearts of a dormant group of Paneristi? It seems Panerai is almost literally trying to do that by creating a hyperfunctional dive watch outfitted with Elux, a lighting technology patented in 1966. Four of the movement s six barrels provide sufficient power to a microgenerator that converts mechanical energy into electricity to light up LEDs on the indexes, hands, and the lume pip on the bezel for up to 30 minutes. Has Panerai se...

Hands-On: The Rado Anatom Automatic And Its 80s Predecessor

Just over four decades after its debut, the Rado Anatom is back. It s bigger than ever with a mechanical movement instead of a quartz one, a bezel and crown in black high-tech ceramic, and a middle case in black PVD-treated steel instead of traditional steel. The new Anatom also shows an impressive edge-to-edge sapphire crystal that follows the curve of the rectangular case. So, at least on paper, the new watch is a better product. But thats not always how it works with watches.It looks like an unfair fight when you see the new $3,750 Rado Anatom Automatic ref. R10202209 next to the 1983 Diastar Anatom ref. 152.0202.3. That s not just because of the large differences in size. Still, size mat...

Is It Time To Revise the Holy Trinity Of Watchmaking?

Every field has its lingo, and the watch world is no exception. As Fratello writers, we try to be aware of our use of language and the implications that come from our specific choice of words. Regardless, sometimes we are taken aback when certain terms unintentionally trigger strong reactions in readers. Recently, we noticed that the term Holy Trinity tends to trigger people. The term is used to characterize three watch brands - Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. Interestingly, the controversy isnt around the religious connotations of the term but around the three companies described by it.Today, we ll try to answer some of the questions about the Holy Trinity and see ...

Fratello Talks: Why Everyone Loves Seiko Watches

Hello there, and welcome to another episode of Fratello Talks. This week, Thomas, Lex, and Nacho discuss Seiko watches. A Seiko is a staple of most watch enthusiasts collections, whether it s a first-ever mechanical watch or an inexpensive curiosity, a vintage rarity in museum-worthy condition, or anything in between. And though there will certainly be those out there who turn their nose up at the brand, most of us will have (at some point or another) been proud stewards of a watch bearing the name Seiko on its dial. With a great range in terms of price, function, and design, it s no wonder the brand is so well liked. But before we jump into the discussion, let s see what watches the guys a...

Introducing The Colorful Limited Edition Nezumi Baleine

Nezumi has quite a few impressive tricks up its sleeve. Only a few weeks ago, I reviewed the brand s Adventure Trio. It s a series of watches that will help you with whatever challenge you encounter during your travels. With a GMT, a diver, and a field watch, Nezumi has you covered in any situation. The Stockholm-based brand decided to give its Baleine dive watch a colorful makeover for its next release. This new 200-piece limited edition gives Nezumi s serious diver a playful look that might make it the perfect summer watch. It s time to find out more!Thinking back on that Nezumi Adventure Trio, initially, the idea of purchasing three aesthetically linked watches to take on your travels mig...

New: Christopher Ward C60 Pro 300 Bronze Blue Ombre

It s been a little less than two years since Christopher Ward introduced the C60 Trident Pro 300 series. From the moment it debuted, the line became a success with the brand s fans. A year after the introduction, Christopher Ward released the first bronze version of the C60 Trident Pro 300. Another year on, a second bronze model sees the light of day. After the first classically styled brown and bronze model, the new model combines a bronze case with a blue bezel and a beautiful blue gradient dial. The C60 Pro 300 Bronze Blue Ombre is a fresh take on a familiar model that will surely find its way to fans.Christopher Ward is a go-to name if you re looking to spend around $1,000 on a dive watc...

Omegas New Aqua Terra Inspired By Armand Mondo Duplantis

The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M is perhaps Omega s strongest contender for everyday luxury. In the realm once dominated by the OP, the Aqua Terra has become a go-to daily watch for the right reasons and can be quite the style chameleon.This time, the inspiration of Armand Mondo Deplantis and the Swedish national colors adds a pop of sunshine. And with one of my favorite stitched rubber straps, this Aqua Terra looks extra sporty and dials up the cool factor.Armand Mondo DuplantisI feel like waving a flag here because Sweden is just a 90-minute drive from Oslo. And in some respects, I like our neighbor country better than mine. Just don t tell the Swedes; they re cocky enough. They also have so...

Hands-On: Breitling Chronomat B01 42 - The King Of Comments

It started as soon as I got home from picking this Chronomat B01 up from the Breitling boutique. Both my wife and daughter simultaneously said, Now thats a nice watch! It s quite different from the Is that a new watch? that I usually get when wearing something for review.Breitling Chronomat B01 42The funny thing is that nearly all the positive comments I received when wearing this steel and rose gold Breitling Chronomat B01 42 came from people outside our watch bubble. I wore this watch during Watches and Wonders, for example, and many frowned upon it (and me), including brand representatives.Well, forget them! I like the looks of the watch. It brought out my inner 1980s/ 90s child in a mode...

The Best Watches Under 5-000: Lexs Picks

No pre-owned shortcuts, just brand-new watches; that was my mantra when putting together my edition of The Best Watches Under $5,000. and Omega are out of reach, Tudor is on nearly every Fratello team members list, and the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT didnt cut it either - it might be a chronometer, but it isnt a flyer GMT. I ended up with picks from Grand Seiko, Frederique Constant, and Breitling.Not too long ago, I wrote that I dreaded the moment I had to put my list of the best watches under $2,500 together. That was because what I thought was available for that budget no longer is. And I kind of felt the same dread when I was asked to put together a list of watches under $5,...

Five Speedy Alternatives To The Current Speedmaster Professional

It has not escaped your attention that the retail price for a new Omega Speedmaster Professional has recently increased. Omega drastically changed many things, not only under the hood (caliber 3861) but also with different exterior parts than before. A new case, dial, hands, and bracelet were been designed for the Moonwatch, making it aesthetically truer to the 1960s models. On top of that, the Speedmaster Professional is certified by METAS as a Master Chronometer to ensure the watch is accurate, antimagnetic, and water resistant.Current Moonwatch pricesHowever, that still doesnt take away the fact that the new Omega Speedmaster Professional might now be further away from you purchasing it t...

Armin Stroms Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops For Collective

Our friends at Collective Horology are no strangers to awesome collab releases. The team seems to possess the diplomatic skills required to push some of the greatest watchmakers to do things outside of their usual scope. In the case of Armin Strom, a brand that doesnt shy away from combining tradition with radical new ideas anyway, that could only result in something cool.In fact, it already has. Todays release is a fresh take on an earlier collaboration between the two. We saw Armin Strom and Collective present the Gravity Equal Force P.03 in late 2022. It was a stealthy, tactical-looking version of the Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force limited to 30 pieces. Today, we get a new batch of 30, p...

New: 38mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 In Green

In February of 2022, Oris and Chronos, WatchTimes sister publication, released a limited-edition watch together. The 38mm stainless steel Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 had a blue vignette dial. It was the first time the Divers Sixty-Five became available with the new movement in a 38mm case. But as there were only 200 made, it was quite hard to get one. Now Oris is bringing a new 38mm Divers Sixty-Five with its Calibre 400 into the regular collection. The sunburst texture and vignette on the dial are similar to the Chronos limited edition, but now it s green. Let s take a look.I once saw the Divers Sixty-Five Chronos edition on display in an Oris boutique, and it looked very attractive. Just...

Collecting Watches: Will We Ever Stop?

This week, Fratello On Air returns with an episode about collecting watches and whether we ll ever stop. It s a good question that we lightly debate because we feel similarly. The watch world is almost endless, providing us with nearly infinite opportunities to learn and enjoy. This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Our watch content starts 15 minutes into the show. Both of your co-hosts enjoy collecting, but will we ever call it quits? We discuss the subject and explore what we might keep amassing. We imagine that many of our listeners face this question, so please feel free to add your comments at the end of the article. For ...

Three New Colorways For Hamiltons Khaki Field Mechanical

One of Hamilton s most popular series of watches is, without a doubt, the Khaki Field Mechanical. This range of traditional military-inspired field watches is probably the first that many watch enthusiasts will think of when hearing the name Hamilton. I am one of them as well, and I love the Khaki Field Mechanical series. Multiple variants speak to me, which makes picking a favorite hard. That choice became even harder with the introduction of three new colorways for the 38mm Khaki Field Mechanical.It s been a while since we focused on the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical series. In late 2021, Nacho wrote about the 42mm versions, and he reviewed the 38mm bronze version a few months before. Ev...

Introducing: The Buci Garde-Temps

Thus far, weve seen brands that mix horology with space and land exploration, car racing, coffee, and food. But what about literature? you may ask. Well, friends, Im glad you want to know because, today, were going to take a look at Buci. This is a brand hailing from Paris, France, with a first collection orbiting around the art of poetry, a world in which Nousse?ma Baraket, Buci s founder, grew up. Baraket also grew up in Franche-Comte, the countrys historical center for horology, making for a unique and harmonious combo akin to pairing the perfect strap with the perfect watch. The result is a strong first offering, after which came a limited-edition collaboration with seconde/seconde/, the...

Hands-On: Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Diver Orca BN0230-04E

Did you know that orcas sometimes intentionally beach themselves? They do it to hunt for shoreline seals, for instance. Its a spectacular sight, but there s quite a bit of risk involved, and seeing them struggle to get back to sea is a nerve-wracking experience. Last week, a Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Diver Orca beached on the shores of Fratello - was it hunting for Fratelli? Finding the stranded 46 14.6mm Orca with a 50mm fin-to-fin length was quite a surprise. We soon found out we were not on the Orca s menu, and after playing around with the 118g beast, we sent it back. Here, you can read about the time we spent together.The original Citizen Orca was discovered in 2006. The watch came ...