I d happily admit to being smitten with Parmigiani Fleurier s new look. The hits seem to be coming thick and fast this year, following the brand s Watches and Wonders novelties. After the focus on the rebirth of the Toric, we get three new versions of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph this time.Parmigiani s intricate dial treatment and a newfound air of minimal cool suits it well. While I m a fan of earlier Tonda designs with quirky asymmetric overlapping registers, the clean, new look is suave. For me, Parmigiani Fleurier has simply become a very good alternative to the usual suspects, and maybe it s about time.The Tonda PF rangeThe minimalist PF range has become the new ca...
Last November, Morgan and I visited the cozy Holthinrichs atelier on one of Delft s picturesque canals. There, we had the chance to go hands-on with the brand s new Deconstructed models and talk to the founder, Michiel Holthinrichs. We got to know the brand a little better and got a good look at those impressive watches. But Michiel also showed us some sketches of new ideas he was working on. At the time, he couldn t tell us too much about them. However, today, Holthinrichs is proudly introducing the new Signature Ornament and the limited Signature Lab Series.The main thing that stuck with me from the first sketches was the graceful and curvy lug design. It was something that I had never see...
Horage, one of the odd ones out in the watch industry, presents the fourth model in its Lensman series, the Lensman 1.2. It s another technically exciting offering equipped with an upgraded version of Horage s K-TOU movement. But one should not ignore the watch s appearance either. With its white dial and strap, the Lensman 1.2 is also visually beautiful.In 2021, Horage presented the Lensman 1 and Lensman 1.1, two photography-inspired watch models using its manual-winding K-TOU caliber with a flying tourbillon. While the Lensman 1 was made in a limited run of 200 pieces, the Lensman 1.1 is a more or less equal watch in a different color scheme and produced as a 300-piece edition. The third L...
What to expect after the [RE]Master01? Well, the [RE]Master02, of course. But what would that second reinterpreted timepiece look like? Nothing like anyone expected. Instead of riding the wave of comfortable retro, Audemars Piguet chose to go asymmetrical. The [RE]Master02 Selfwinding is the result of a deep dive into a niche of the brands archives. In the search for something special to revive and under the guidance of Sebastian Vivas, director of the Audemars Piguet Museum in Le Brassus, something rare was found. It came to light that between 1959 and 1963, AP created more than 30 asymmetrical models and produced most of them in very limited quantities of less than 10 pieces. The Audemars ...
Among the microbrand scene, Echo/Neutra is a bit of a cult favorite. By that, I mean it may not be a brand that everyone is familiar with, but if you know, you know. The young brand from Italy started just before COVID and has gone from strength to strength since. Today, I am looking at the Chrono GMT, which is part of the brand s Cortina 1956 collection. This collection commemorates the Winter Olympic Games held in Cortina d Ampezzo in 1956. The latest edition to the lineup has a timeless yet vintage-inspired design that looks as attractive now as it would have done nearly 70 years ago.Let s start with the basics. The Echo/Neutra Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT measures 40mm in diameter, complement...
Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we take a step away from the pre-owned watches we have been covering lately. Earlier this week, IWC announced the first fully luminous ceramic watch. Watch spotters saw it on the wrist of Formula 1 driver and IWC ambassador Lewis Hamilton last weekend during the Monaco Grand Prix. The new IWC Ceralume concept watch inspired us to pick our favorite full-lume dial watches.When IWC announced the new full-lume Pilot s Chronograph 41, we immediately thought of the now-defunct brand Tockr. While a luminous ceramic watch might be new, a case that lights up in the dark is far from it. Tockr created multiple hydro-dipped versions of its Air Defender Chronogra...
It could have been about three or four years since I saw a Gallet Astronomic listed last time. It was on eBay, and the price reached the $10,000 limit, so I was hesitant. My dilemma didn t last long; someone bought it before I made up my mind. When the opportunity came again, I was ready!Last December, I reviewed the Valjoux 72C-powered Gallet Calendar Chronograph, which is listed in catalogs (and stamped on the case back) with reference number 998. I believe my excitement about that watch was evident. Today, six months later, I still cannot get enough of its whitey-white dial. It was one of the biggest surprises for me. It has grown on me so much that it has got way more wrist time than my ...
For some of you, the bold case shape will be instantly recognizable as a Schofield creation. But while it is indeed symbolic of the brand, this is a very different product of Giles Ellis s furtive imagination. Does it set the tone for what can be a stand-alone totem of a watch or a new line of Schofield futurism? By introducing the Schofield Obscura, Giles sure awakens my curiosity.This time, the keeper of the Sussex, UK-based small brand has embraced ancient metal-crafting techniques, resulting in an intriguing case. While the trademark shape still seems big, this metallurgic showpiece deserves every millimeter of wrist real estate it occupies.The result of a seven-year creative processGile...
The Credor Locomotive is a fascinating design from the late 1970s. Today, the brand has brought it back to life. Let s take a first look at this rather special timepiece and find out more. Anything Gerald Genta once touched (or, rather, designed) may as well have turned to gold. We ve seen many brands leverage his designs from the 70s and 80s in modern timepieces and reintroductions. Most recently, IWC released an Ingenieur based on a series of designs Genta provided for the brand in the 1970s. Today, Credor offers its revamped take on a Genta-designed watch, the Credor Locomotive.Credor chose to reintroduce the Locomotive to celebrate the brand s 50th anniversary. However, Credor initiall...
It has been a while since the last episode of Building A Watch Brand. In fact, that was a full month before the big launch, which took place on March 7th. As you may have gathered elsewhere, the VPC Type 37HW presale was a success, meeting the threshold number of sales over the first weekend. It wasnt smooth sailing, though! A lot has happened since, so an update from my end is long overdue.?Production is now in full swing, and the prototypes received some crucial updates. All in all, there s plenty to cover. Lets dive in!The presale of the VPC Type 37HWThe presale was just about the most nerve-racking thing I have ever done in my life. For about a week prior, I could hardly sleep. I was ner...
Welcome to the latest episode of Fratello Talks. This week, Nacho is joined by RJ and Lex to discuss their thoughts on a hype-hungry watch industry. Lately, more than ever before, it seems that big brands within the watch industry are doing their best to remain relevant by chasing hype. We saw the natural hype behind the Omega Swatch MoonSwatch take over the world a couple of years ago, but have brands been successful in manufacturing similar excitement? Before we answer that question and look at several examples of how brands have attempted to do so, let s see what s on the guys wrists.This video is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings This podca...
The young Swedish brand Nezumi has made a name for itself with a catalog of stylish, affordable watches. Now, with the release of its new Terrain field watch, the Stockholm-based brand has completed its ultimate traveling triumvirate, the Adventure Trio. Alongside the new Terrain, we have the relatively longstanding but revised Baleine dive watch and the brand s hit release from last year, the Aviera GMT. With each model suited to a different purpose, the Adventure Trio should have you covered on your global travels. I had a chance to go hands-on with all three watches and see how they work together.I am a Nezumi fan. This is far from a shocking revelation, but it does tell you that I have b...
The Hermes Cut debuted in April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. That s why we were quite surprised when we received an invite from Hermes for a press trip organized around this new watch. Usually, trips like this are organized in advance to focus everyone s attention on the novelty. It s also common that the program includes some kind of hands-on presentation of the new watch. However, this trip took place a month and a half after the official launch of the Hermes Cut, and no session with the watch itself was mentioned in the program. So, what was this trip to the Greek island of Tinos all about?Hermes has a reputation for spending little on advertising compared to other luxury brands. Of ...
Maybe you ve heard of it, but Kapton is not a material Im familiar with. Before being introduced to the Louis Moinet Moon Tech during last months Watches and Wonders, I did not know the material existed, let alone its different purposes, such as insulation, chemical resistance, and heat control. It s used by NASA too, you know? And in the case of the yellow slice of this polyamide film under the dial of the new Louis Moinet, its from the Apollo 11 mission. The Kapton in the watch served as thermal protection for the astronauts in the Command Module. Apollo 11 was the mission that put the first people on the Moon, and its crew consisted of astronauts Neil Armstrong, Edwin Buzz Aldrin, and Mic...
Hublot is easily one of the most controversial watch brands among enthusiasts. The brand seems to thrive but not necessarily in connoisseurs circles. It catches a ton of flack, in some cases deservedly. I have to admit I hardly paid the brand any attention for the longest time. But I find myself coming around. There are a few Hublot watches that tickle my fancy, and I think it is about time I admit it.Now, this article isnt really about me. I will take my taste as a starting point, but I aim to look at why Hublot catches so much flack and, more specifically, how much of it still holds up in 2024. Lets dive in!So, what is triggering the controversy among enthusiasts in the first place?Hublot ...
The Watch Collectors Club allows connoisseurs and enthusiasts to gather for watch-related events. You may have heard of similar watch groups, such as the long-running RedBar chapters or Time4APint in London. Where The Watch Collectors Club differs is going that extra mile for bespoke events and tailored experiences. Unlike RedBar, The Watch Collectors Club uses an annual subscription model ranging from $75 to $150 per year. What that gets you is experiences that are not unlike VIP client excursions but without needing to spend as much as a VIP. Even as a RedBar member and devoted follower of Time4APint, I was unaware of The Watch Collectors Club and was keen to learn more.British Watchma...
This week, Fratello On Air returns to its normally scheduled slot with a look at some Haute Horlogerie that can be bought at a fair price. To be clear, we re focusing more on high-end complications that usually cost an arm and a leg. This is the second half of an episode we recorded a week ago, and we hope you enjoy it! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Big-time complications often come with nasty price tags. However, we ve identified some examples of Haute Horlogerie that may not break the bank. Come with us while we run through some specific references. Enjoy the show!Opening thoughtsWe covered the Handgelenkskontrolle i...
Doxa recently announced a new line of divers in a smaller form factor - the 39mm Sub 200T. I got a chance to try the entire lineup. I also had a full-sized Sub 300T for comparison at hand. In short, I got to form a pretty comprehensive image of what this new Doxa diver is all about. Join me in a closer look at the brand-new Doxa Sub 200T.One pleasant surprise, especially in todays crazy market, was the price of this new model. Doxa managed to offer it at $400 less than the bigger Sub 300T. This puts it firmly in Seikos mid-range divers territory. Lets see how they stack up!Doxa Sub 200T specificationsLets get the obligatory stuff out of the way before we delve into what this new size is like...
The Certina DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition by Marta Ortega sheds light on a sport that has recently come to my attention. Padel is a big deal! Now the sport has a watch celebrating one of its most popular players. Marta also had a hand in designing the chronograph.I hadn t heard much about padel until a recent discussion at our local tennis club. It s a big deal! This isn t the same sport as pickleball, the game that has taken America by storm and is slowly infecting the globe. No, padel is a racket sport of Mexican origin with similar rules to tennis. However, the walls are in play. The equipment is also slightly different as the rackets have a solid face with holes instead of strings. That part...
For some reason, watches with a jumping-hour complication always intrigue me. The fact that they don t necessarily need to have traditional hands inspires designers to do things differently. They come up with original ways of displaying the time. Sometimes, there s just a simple hour window and an additional minute hand. But the watches can also have a more complex dial layout with, for example, retrograde minute and date displays. In this edition of Pre-Owned Spotlight, I ll take a look at some nice examples of jumping-hour watches.I was inspired when I wrote an article on recent releases from both Chanel and Chopard. The Quattro Spirit 25 and Superleggera are both very tasteful examples of...
