Reverse PandaAround this time of the year some watch websites already start to speculate about the latest novelties brands will release during BaselWorld. There are trends however, patterns if you like, that come in waves year after year and will have an impact on the novelties. Just think about the emergence of smart and connected watches or the bronze cased models from a few years ago. It seems that this year watch manufacturers are again reaching back to their old playbook. They are pulling out something that worked for them many years ago and as a matter of fact, never went out of style. It is not a case shape or complication rather a design element that characterizes the whole watch; pa...

Inspired by Vintage Aircraft, Ferro & Co. designed 2 distinctive styles of Pilot Watches that reflect the aesthetics of 1940 s Aviation World.On February 15th 2017, Ferro Watches launched a crowd funding campaign to fund their first production batch of Swiss Made timepieces called Ferro AGL (Above Ground Level).? Designed to resemble the era of 1940 s aviation, this is a watch that is both unique and functional.Since Ferro & Company s birth in 2014, thousands of watches have been shipped around the world, and now the company shifted its production from Far East to Switzerland. Ferro s mission is to produce high quality Swiss Made watches at accessible prices to the mass without compr...

Angelus Collector s GuideJust before Christmas last year a great project was released and I could not be more proud of it. For months I helped, researched, photographed material to appear in this extensive journal. Thanks to?Klassik Uhren Magazine, a publication that C like us C also belongs to Ebner Publishing, we had the pleasure to publish a very excessive article about one of my personal favorite brands; Angelus. I have dealt with the brand before on the pages of Fratello Watches when I wrote about my Hungarian Air Force chronograph and my Chronodato, both for #TBT.Klassik Uhren ArticleDr. Christoph ?hm-Khnles wonderful project came out in Klassik Uhren 6/2016 (in Germany). Our German s...

On todays #TBT, well take a brief look at a seldom seen version of a watch weve covered in the past. The subject of todays post is the Gallet Multichron 12HR Torch Dial. Its a piece that I hemmed and hawed about covering because of its similarity to a piece we already featured, but its a bit of a fan favorite with more than one reader asking for more info. Ill also start with a detour and provide a cautionary tale regarding the servicing of our dear vintage specimens.A Rough Gallet Multichron 12HRIt was sometime late in 2015 that I spied the Gallet Multichron 12HR in todays article. It was on eBay and it looked a heck of a lot of different than today. Namely, the watch did not work and it ha...

However you look at it, Cartier has always been the creator of shaped watches and the brand never renounced their past. Their creations from the twenties and thirties are still a returning theme in the collection, as they often have obtained an iconic status. Stunning examples of Cartier s shaped watches are the curved cases of the Tank Americain and?the?Tank Cintree?and?Tonneau?pictured here.These are watches that fit like a glove on the wrist and look so handsome halfway under the cuff. This is what most of us probably see as shaped cases. ?But there are less well-known examples, produced in very small quantities, that are even more extreme when it comes to case design.1923 For instance, w...

2017 marks the year of the Speedmaster or more specifically: 60 years of Speedmaster. Omega sent an awesome press kit last week to journalists with an overview of 60 Speedmaster watches. A very neat overview of 60 different models, from the very first Speedmaster CK2915 ‘Broad Arrow till the latest, yet to be released, Speedy Tuesday edition.60 Years of SpeedmasterWith 60 watches, not all Speedmasters are covered, but Omega made a selection and it gives a very good overview of how the Speedmaster changed over the years and what ‘side steps have been made during the path. Not only you ll find the Broad Arrow, CK2998, gold Apollo XI 1969 reference, Alaska Project II and the 1985 ...

Longines Legend Diver – 52Mondayz, week# 8Inspired by the launch of the Longines Avigation Watch Type A7 1935 last week, which is the new offshoot in the Longines Heritage collection, I ll wear my Longines Legend Diver this week.If I m correct,?the Longines Legend Diver was the first watch in the current Heritage collection from Longines. Even, the Legend Diver wasn t named a ‘Heritage model, however obviously a ‘Legend . Longines hereafter came up with the name ‘Heritage for the rest of the collection.In the distant past Longines already made some re-editions from the Lindbergh Hour Angle, Conquest and Flagship models. I think these were part of a heritage collecti...

IntroductionAs many of us, I follow a lot of watch loving people on Instagram. While scrolling through my Instagram timeline I often encounter comments like What a stunner or What a killer. Not really related to the real purpose of the watch…While this kind of comments perfectly make sense on those passingly IG accounts?I suddenly discovered that this is true in some cases. Although not much in present time, watches have been killers or lifesavers in the past.Functionality to Design StatementsNowadays most of us buy a watch pure by its aesthetics. Ok, sometimes things like a chronograph?come in handy when you want to boil your eggs. But besides this that will be about it. So much has c...

As most of you know we try to bring a diverse selection of vintage watches to #TBT week after week. Its obvious that among vintage watches we (at least Mike and I definitely) have a soft spot for complications. Nowadays the most sought after of these happen to be chronographs, but you all know this by now. So what is cooler than a vintage chrono? A vintage military chrono!Junghans BundeswehrAs most of you know we try to bring a diverse selection of vintage watches to #TBT week after week. Its obvious that among vintage watches we (at least Mike and I definitely) have a soft spot for complications. Nowadays the most sought after of these happen to be chronographs, but you all know this by now...

We rarely cover watches promoted on the crowdfunding source Kickstarter, but today well take a look at what Id consider to be a very well executed retro racing inspired piece, the Straton Syncro. I think that what youll see after reading this is that we are in a new era of flexible manufacturing and this allows for near limitless customization. Think of these micro brands as semi-analogous to craft beer because they answer the call for so many watch collectors and buyers C the desire to buy something off the beaten path thats made to an individuals tastes. These small brand products are something that large companies with large management structures and other internal requirements struggle t...

For a long time, it was assumed that the Speedmaster became ‘Professional after the watch was certified by NASA. However, the earlier use of the ‘Professional addition has been discovered some time ago. An example is this early bird Omega Speedmaster Professional 105.012-63 from 1964.Speedmaster Professional 105.012-63Yesterday, one of our readers and Speedmaster enthusiast came to our office in The Hague to show his Speedmaster Professional 105.012-63. It always good fun to meet our readers and other Speedmaster collectors. So if you are around, shoot us a message and you are welcome to talk Speedies and enjoy a coffee.What we have here is a very early Speedmaster Professional...

The Bronzo Returns! could be the title of a Marvel or DC Comics episode. But we re talking watches here. In 2011, Panerai introduced the first Bronzo to us, the reference PAM00382. Only 1000 pieces were produced?and all sold within a blink of the eye. Paneristi who were able to buy one, were (are) very happy. In 2013, Panerai did one more with the PAM 507. This year, Panerai introduces another bronzo. The PAM 671 Luminor Submersible 1950, with a blue glossy dial and P.9010 calibre movement.Panerai PAM 671 Luminor Submersible 1950 BronzoToday, the PAM00382 is offered on the pre-owned market between 28.000 and 35.000 Euro. The same goes for the PAM 507 (which featured a power reserve indicator...

Only late in 2016 (October), the famous chronograph manufacturer from Le Locle?came out with their Zenith Heritage Cronometro TIPO CP-2. This model refers to the famous (and sought-after) Zenith Cairelli chronographs from the 1960s. A. Cairelli was the Rome-based distributor for a number of watch brands, including Zenith.?Zenith Cronometro TIPO CP-2The Italian Air Force chose (amongst others) Zenith chronograph for their pilots and Cairelli did the delivery?for them. 2500 of these Zenith Cairelli chronographs were delivered to pilots and this original?Zenith Cronometro TIPO CP-2 was used by them till the late 1970s. The original version didn t have an El Primero chronograph movement of cours...

In todays installment of #TBT, well talk about what I think is, hands down, one of the most perfect chronographs ever created, the Breitling 765 AOPA. In case youre in denial, have been reading elsewhere or are blinded by the fact that the brands current offerings are far different (read: much larger) than its historic lineup, vintage Breitling offers a true treasure trove of goodies for the vintage chronograph collector. Well over a year ago, I compiled a lengthy interview with a couple Breitling experts and it ultimately covered but a fraction of the incredible models once offered by the aerospace-focused maker. Since that time, the brand has gained more and more respect amongst hardcore c...

This is the first time I have an Aquadive Bathyscaphe 100 Bronze in my hands and I have to say it is a big watch. Even so big, that when I took off my Omega Speedmaster Mark III to strap this on I was taken aback by its size.Aquadive Bathyscaphe 100 BronzeIn pictures it looked much smaller, but the size is not an issue at all. After a few minutes I realized that regardless of its measurements, the watch is extremely comfortable. It came on an?olive green NATO?(which works well with the bronze case) and the watch is?super balanced on it. It did not feel top-heavy at all. I also noticed how sharp the look of the watch is. It really feels like a true diving instrument. The weight, the quality, ...

Last year, Cartier launched the first three models of their Drive de Cartier collection. Never before the brand released a new time piece that was, from a design and advertising point of view, so targeted to men as the ‘Drive de Cartier collection. In general, the response was very positive. ?The ‘Drive de Cartier ?was picked up pretty soon after it was released, especially the time only model.During the last SIHH, two more models are added to the ‘Drive de Cartier collection. They probably appeal to a part of the Cartier clientele, on which the previous three models might have been lost: that of the classic Cartier connoisseur.Purists will be pleased that Cartier reduced ...

As you know, we re part of the same publishing house as WatchTime, Chronos, Watch-Insider and Uhren Magazine. The German WatchTime editor Melanie Feist, interviewed?Fran?ois-Henry Bennahmias during the SIHH about the new Royal Oak collection.Just last week we talked about the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo 15202 in yellow gold. Not only this watch is being mentioned in the interview, but also the frosted gold models and the new ceramic 41mm Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in ceramic.?Audemars Piguet CEO Fran?ois-Henry Bennahmias makes an interesting statement about this watch, a little provoking to other brands perhaps that copied the style of the Royal Oak. Yet, to me, the most interestin...

In less than two months from now, we will bring you as much news as possible from the biggest watch exhibition in the world. A couple of brands give us a little sneak preview of what s coming, such as Omega with their new Speedmaster Racing or in this case, Alpina with their Seastrong Horological Smartwatch. And it is already available!Alpina Seastrong Horological SmartwatchAlpina continues to expand their collection of horological smartwatches. Just before BaselWorld 2017, they now introduce their Alpina Seastrong Horological Smartwatch. This time, they ve packed their Horological Smartwatch in a pretty looking divers watch. It is the same digital component as used in the Frederique Constan...

Recently I bumped into a picture of a vintage watch that I had never seen before. It turned out to be a military watch by Lemania, issued to the South-African Air Force (SAAF) in the 1980s and equipped with an iconic movement. Since it is not a watch you probably see very often, I tried to find out more about it.Lemania 5012 SAAFThe Lemania 5012 SAAF was in use by South African Air Force pilots during the 1980s. It looks much more modern than the classic military watch. The black and greenish dial looks like a serious instrument. It seems to be quiet big, with its slightly domed glass providing a stretched view over a dial with one register (at 9) and a date window (at 3). The combination of...

In the 1990s, when my interest for mechanical watches sparked, one of the most complicated watches I d ever seen was the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar. I was fascinated by the fact that a mechanical timepiece could be ‘programmed to have a calendar that won t need any corrections until a certain year. The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar was introduced in 1985 and now, IWC decided it was time for a new and improved version. Let s have a look.IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar ChronographThose old round IWC Da Vinci models (reference 3750) were clearly the inspiration for this new IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph reference? IW392101 and IW392103. What can I say? I never cared for ...