This week in Pre-owned Picks, I am looking at the forgotten Big Block chronograph from Tudor. The term Big Block was coined by collectors in reference to the case height. The reason for the thicker case? This was Tudors first line of automatic chronographs. Most interestingly, these came out twelve years before placed the modified Zenith El Primero movement in the 1988 Daytona.Before the Oyster Date, the Chrono Time was launched in 1976. Tudors line-up consisted of twin-register chronographs with manually-wound movements. The advent of the automatic chronograph in 1969 sent shockwaves through many watch brands in the 1970s. Heuer, Seiko, Breitling, Buren, Hamilton, and of course Zenith had ...

Unfortunately, there was no Grand Seiko event this year. Normally, these annual get-togethers provide the perfect backdrop for new releases to first see the light of day. Instead, the Grand Seiko watches came to us. There is plenty to come over the course of the year (some of the novelties are still embargoed, of course). What I can say, however, having had the benefit of seeing what remains behind the curtain, is that the Grand Seiko SBGJ239 watch is absolutely one of my personal favorite 2020 releases.A green dialed GMT on a leather strap? Color me interested. It sounds amazing on paper, but it sounds even more unusual when we consider this watch s context. This watch sits within the Grand...

I m sure we ve all done it. Instinctively reaching for your cell/mobile phone when you want to check or confirm the time is becoming commonplace. But perhaps we are living through a transition period that might see time s most trusted teller return to the wrist after all. But maybe not in the way we d like…On the surface, this question seems a bit odd. It seems a bit backward. We re more than used to being asked whether smartwatches will replace mechanical watches, but being asked if watches will replace phones? That s a much newer suggestion that would have sounded crazily topsy-turvy a few years back.Cellphones are everywhere. They have been for years. Even children have them these d...

New releases from Patek Philippe don t always feel this new. We are used to seeing minor updates to a collection that often feels more entrenched than established. But that is fair enough. When you can arguably claim to be the G.O.A.T. why mess with a winning formula? However, with the release of the Patek Philippe Ref. 6007A-001 Calatrava watch in steel, the Genevan manufacture has shown it s aware of how much times are changing.For the past five years, Patek Philippe has been working on a new manufacture in Geneva. The Plan-les-Ouates site was signed off in 2014 to aid Patek Philippe‘s desire to internalize as many aspects of production as possible. Some interpreted the manufacture s...

Early date watches have a?lot of charm. If they come with an unusual running disc instead of sub-seconds, you get a truly unique watch. Meet an early date Medana with MST 234 caliber. If you ve ever tried to hunt down a decent early date watch - and by early, I mean earlier than mid-1940s Datejust - you learned two things. Its not easy to find a well-preserved example. And, perhaps unexpectedly, it turns out that the 1930s and the 1940s saw some pretty neat designs as the industry struggled to get its head around the date complication. If you dig deep… My lucky catch? An era-appropriate Medana. It comes with not only with a beautiful date integration, but also with truly rare running ...

The watch industry, like its products, has a lot of moving parts. Millions of people around the world play their part in bringing our interest to life. But it is true that some people play a much more visible role in the task than others. Those characters that come to define eras of watchmaking should be championed. They should be listened to, learned from, and respected. Even if they did name themselves after a badger…If you ve never met James Thompson, you should probably stick it on your to-do list. I don t mean in a creepy, stalker kind of way. I mean in a nice, dignified, organic kind of way (like accidentally running into him at an event). Please, please, please, do not board a p...

This morning, Swatch Group announced important management changes. Per July 1st, there will be new CEOs for Longines, Rado, Union, Tissot, Hamilton, and Certina. Besides that, there will be changes to the executive group management board and the extended group management board.It is important to note that all changes are internal. All roles have been filled by existing Swatch Group employees who ve been working there for many years.Swatch Group management changesLet s start with the changes in the management boards of the Swatch Group. Raynald Aeschlimann, CEO of Omega and member of the extended group, has joined the executive group management board. He will remain CEO of Omega, of course. H...

For 2020 Breguet has chosen to expand its Marine collection. In March, we saw the release of a new rose gold Marine Tourbillon equation Marchante 5887. Today sees Breguet adding another six new watches to the Marine collection. Although not technically new, they are very welcome additions.The Marine 5517, 5527, and 5547 have been familiar faces in the current Marine collection that was introduced in 2018. To expand the collection, Breguet decided to introduce them with full gold bracelets.…my appreciation for the Marine collection had grown tremendously.It s funny how things change over time. As I mentioned in my article on the Marine Tourbillon equation Marchante 5887, for a long time...

Welcome back to Wrist Game or Crying Shame, the weekly series that often brings back memories from your halcyon days. Let s see if the TAG Heuer Link Chronograph moistens your eyes for the right or wrong reasons. But first…Last week, I showed you the Glashtte Original Senator Navigator. Even though that watch used a design heavily inspired by WW2 bomber watches, you felt it was Original enough to land a 58% Wrist Game win. For the proponents, I agree with you - great watch! This week s subject won t take its inspiration from anything nearly that old, but the TAG Heuer Link Chronograph has certainly inspired me to travel back in time. Let s go for a ride.TAG Heuer owned the 1990 sTAG H...

Seiko presented the new versions of their Captain Willard models. And for the fans, the best thing about these is probably that they are a non-limited version. Weve recently had the opportunity to give them a try so lets have a closer look at the Seiko Prospex SPB151 and SPB153.For those who dont know where the nickname comes from, Martin Sheen was seen wearing this watch in the movie Apocalypse Now. His character s name, Captain Willard, soon became the nickname for this watch. The model he had on his wrist in the movie was the Seiko 6105 which was introduced in 1970 and produced for about 7 years.?Last year during Baselworld, a modern interpretation of this watch was presented. Make sure t...

The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo watch is the darling of many watch journalists. Not only because of its thin case or the micro-rotor movement but also because Bvlgari is doing some different from the other luxury brands. The design of the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo is attractive and somewhat off-the-wall. A lot of brands are on the re-edition train, but not Bvlgari.Last month, we reviewed the stainless steel version and I explained why I think it is so great. Also compared to the other luxury steel sports watches out there from established brands, the Bvlgari Octo Finissmo watch stands out for me. The watch I have here today is the rose gold Bvlgari Octo Finissimo watch. On a leather strap. I am not ...

Ive been collecting Speedmaster watches for over 20 years. The first one I bought was in 1999, a Speedmaster Professional 145.012-67. Things were very different back then. There were far fewer resources available. Doing your homework was hard. It took a lot more legwork than it does today. When I started out, I used the TimeZone Omega forums and was in touch with fellow enthusiasts like Chuck Maddox and Bill Sohne, for example.I hadn t set out with the 145.012-67 in mind. Honestly, it could have been any Speedmaster Professional. This was just one of the most affordable models around. It was even cheaper than a young pre-owned model with caliber 1861 or 861. In 1999, nobody ever heard (or ca...

It s time for Two For Tuesday and this week we take a look at two of Omega s finest. The Speedmaster Professional will throw-down with the Seamaster 300M.In our inaugural episode of Two For Tuesday, the GMT 16710 duked it out with the Submariner 14060M. It was the heavyweight battle we all expected, but in the end it was the GMT that prevailed by less than 50 votes! We thank you for all your participation and for some very lively comments. Let s see if today s contest between the Speedmaster Professional and Seamaster 300M inspires the same spirited debate.We all know people who can easily afford a , but they simply will not buy one. For them, a is too showy, reminds them of unsavory types...

The exploration of Mars has been part of scientific proposals for the better half of the 20th century. In his atelier in Russia, Konstantin Chaykin is doing his bit for the cause. And now, with the successful SpaceX launch still fresh in the memory, we re able to welcome the Mars Conqueror Mk 3 Fighter to the fold.How do these two things come together? The Mars Conqueror Mk 3 Fighter looks like something straight out of a 90s sci-fi movie. I can just imagine this strapped to the wrist of Quaid (Schwarzenegger) from Total Recall. And I don t mean this in a derogatory way. If you re looking for an appropriately Martian watch, then this is it. But be quick! Chaykin will only make eight pieces....

Oris celebrates its 116th birthday by dedicating an extraordinary full-bronze timepiece to its hometownOn June 1st, 1904, Paul Cattin and Georges Christian founded Oris in the village H?lstein at precisely the place where the brand still is located today. They borrowed the brand s name from a local creek - The Oris.H?lstein, lying 25 kilometers south of Basel and hence far away from the center of the Swiss watch industry, knows a thing or two about solitude. It is not only geographically separated from the rest of the industry, but it is also independent. Its location has become an expression of Oris s individuality and independence. Oris plans on highlighting this special bond with a series...

Brown is a contentious color when it comes to luxury watchmaking. A strap staple, moving the color to the dial has had some remarkably successful runs in the past, but it isn t as easy as classics like the Root Beer watches of old made it look. Here, Louis Erard employs a warm shade on the dial of its La Sportive Limited Edition Bronze Watch. The result? Find out below…Whether bronze is here to stay or not, isn t really the point. The point is that the trend has, by now, hung around long enough to have carved itself a definite niche in the industry. Plenty of people were skeptical of its longevity. Those voices are quieter now. And for good reason. Brands are becoming more and more ad...

In this Sunday morning column, two of our writers go head-to-head in an epic showdown for the ages. Strong opinions and hysterical hyperbole are welcome (so feel free to join in with the fun in the comments section below). And dont forget to let us know which watches youd like to see torn to shreds/effusively exalted next week. Well try and feature as many of our readers choices as we can. This week, it s all about blue. And now we need your help to decide between two very different watches from and Grand Seiko. Enter the Sky-Dweller and Skyflake SBGA407…Last week was close. We anticipated as much. Despite the valid concerns surrounding our classification of a Datejust as a dress wat...

Welcome to This Week in Watches for June 13, 2020, the Innovative Edition. We ve got quite the smattering for you this week.Omega De Ville Tourbillon Numbered EditionThis week s first watch happens to be innovative and expensive. The 43mm Omega De Ville Tourbillon Numbered Edition is the first-ever Master Chronometer manual wind central tourbillon. Honestly, I d bet there are a lot of firsts in there, but this watch is robust enough to withstand a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss. Appropriately, the watch is beautifully finished with a Sedna gold case and Canipus white gold. Interestingly, this new alloy is extremely bright and tarnish resistant. Caliber 2640 is viewable from the front and mor...

In this interview with Rolf Studer (Oris co-CEO) and Katsu Manabe (Momotaro), we talk about their new collaboration watch. The Oris Divers 65 Momotaro, with its turquoise dial and denim strap, is the product of these two independent players.The bi-color (steel and bronze) Oris Divers 65 Momotaro watch is not a limited edition, but an addition to Oris s regular collection. We talk to Rolf Studer about doing special edition watches like these, and how these collaborations come to life. Katsu Manabe talks about the denim culture in Japan and how he got in touch with Oris. Both are completely down-to-Earth people as you will discover in our video interview and open to discuss any questions. Wi...

Wrist Game or Crying Shame remains locked inside, but we re thankful that modern technology still allows us all to vote. Today, we ll consider the Daytona 116523 and shed some light on a watch that s rarely discussed. But first…Last week, I tried to impress you with my knowledge of both art and hipster cliches when I presented a vintage Movado Museum Watch for consideration. George R.R. Martin once said that, Art is not a democracy. People don t get to vote on how it ends. Well, you collectively thumbed your nose at George while voting this art to a lumbering 54% Crying Shame loss! But we move forward with a very different kettle of fish in the Daytona 116523.The Daytona 16523 = Two...