One of my favorite film franchises was/is the Lord Of The Rings trilogy. Having never read the books, I was hooked and invested in the story as soon as I watched the first film. I always thought The Two Towers was an incredible film, and I doubted they could top it. However, the third and final piece of the puzzle, The Return Of The King, exceeded all expectations. What a film! Why is this relevant? Well, Seiko has heralded its own Return Of The King, bringing back King Seiko as a part of its permanent collection.After a trial-run King Seiko reissue last year, Seiko finally seems to have bitten the bullet and gone all-in on bringing back the King Seiko name. As a brand with a rich and deep h...
I was not raised Catholic, and I m not one today. You wouldn t know that, however, from the guilt that I carry. There are things that I ve done that simply can t be undone, and there are watches I ve worn that surely can t be unworn. There are also some pitiful habits I have that make me feel like less than a devoted watch guy. Today, in this article, it s time to come clean and confess my dirty little horological secrets. Forgive me, Fratelli, for I (feel like I) have sinned.Was that opening paragraph slightly melodramatic? Of course, it was, but it s midnight, and I ve got to start this somehow. Nevertheless, this idea has been brewing for weeks, while the seed of guilt that inspired it ha...
Ever since I first got into watches, there have been a few pieces that have always struck me as special. The Explorer II 16570 is one example. Another is the Omega Seamaster 300 M ref. 2254.50. This is a watch that takes us back to the days of aluminum bezel inserts and Pierce Brosnan playing the worlds favorite British secret agent. Though the original Omega SMP shares its 1993 birthyear with the author, the specific model Ill be making a case for today, the fifth-generation SMP, was released in 2000. With its sharp sword hands, its this brilliant iteration of Omegas flagship dive watch that Id love to see make a comeback today. As the latest reference in the Seamaster line (the 210.30.42....
Several of us at Fratello were rather impressed by the massive release of reworked marvels in the Royal Oak series, including one of my all-time favorite fume dials. But much of it fades when faced with the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak open-worked trio.We conclude our AP coverage this week by delving into the new open-worked and long-named versions of the venerable octagonal-bezeled Genta creation. These are two similar yet very different approaches to the art of skeletonization, and they left me with a deep affinity for the art of contrasts. One of the most charming aspects is the way Audemars Piguet has chosen to frame its flying tourbillon. A complication created to increase pocket watch...
We like to talk about vintage watches a lot within the Fratello team. Though most of what we write about is largely focused on the most recent releases and developments, for many of us, a lot of the fun can be found in the sometimes weird and often wonderful world of vintage watches. It s a world full of history, remarkable watches, incredible stories, and quirky details. It inspired us to come up with a series of articles focusing on the best watches per decade from a select group of brands. Some of them are priceless, some of them are still affordable. In this installment, we will take a look at the best Swatch watches from the 2000s.By the turn of the millennium, Switzerland had proudly r...
Are there proper replacements for the watch world s biggest icons? That s a question that often has a personal answer. A little over two weeks ago, I tried answering the question of whether there are great alternatives for the good ol Datejust. Last week, Robert-Jan did the same for the Omega Speedmaster. In this article, we will be searching for five alternatives for the current GMT-Master II. The famous GMT-Master defined the category of GMT watches. Many of the watches in the same genre took inspiration from the original that started the legacy in 1954. So let s see if there are true alternatives for the current GMT-Master II.The original GMT-Master is one of the most iconic watches e...
I m the eldest of three. I have a great relationship with my parents and siblings, but it would be easy to paint me as the odd one out. I wouldn t say I m unloved (although I m sure my family members would), it s just that my younger brother and sister always seemed to fit a little bit better. They have certainly been responsible for fewer sleepless nights, which perhaps has something to do with it. When I was a young child, I would keep my mother awake every night with my endless existential angst. As such, I feel an affinity with the H. Moser & Cie Heritage Collection, the oft-ignored odd duckling of a catalog replete with attention-grabbing superstars. And so I m here to say, Fear not...
It took me a while to get this one done. I received the new Nivada Super Antarctic lineup before the holiday season. I say lineup because the box had one of each of the three iterations. No problem, I thought, it should be a walk in the park. Then the end-of-year dinners started to roll in, preparing for my time off work, and finally COVID… As in me getting COVID. And this is exactly what I needed - a bit of time off so I could sit down and take a closer look at the new Super Antarctic from Nivada Grenchen.Since I received every iteration available, I felt spoiled. Yet I soon found out that I kept returning to one version of the three when I wanted to wear a Super Antarctic. Which one ...
Today, I sit down with Pim Koeslag. He s the CEO of Ateliers de Monaco and technical director of both Frederique Constant and Alpina.Perhaps the highlight of the exchange is the conversation surrounding Frederique Constant s innovative high-frequency oscillator. The monolithic oscillator is created from a single piece of silicon and has an operating frequency of 40Hz. This affordable regulating organ (installed in pieces starting around $5,000) looks to change consumer expectations in regards to accessible accuracy from a mechanical watch. This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings The conversation then strays into the philosophica...
The lion s share of new watches you buy will drop in value like a rock the instant you put them on your wrist. Is that a bad thing? Not if you love the watch, wear it with pride, and start adding emotional value to it. But that will be worthless once you want to resell your watch. Is it the price you pay for losing interest in your former horological lover? Your poor choice from the heart made you lose money, some arrogant person might say with a superior smirk on their face. People who buy with the brain aim for watches with (presumed) resale value. But when you have this investment-like approach, you have way fewer choices. And as passionate watch aficionados would claim, the joy of wearin...
Grand Seiko has had its foot on the gas pedal ever since the start of 2022. We have seen a string of exciting new releases from the Japanese brand, and it doesn t look like GS is planning on slowing down anytime soon. To celebrate the 55th anniversary of its legendary 44GS, the brand introduces two limited-edition models with dials inspired by the stars in the sky. Both models are executed in Ever-Brilliant Steel and feature the latest hi-beat and Spring Drive movements. Let s find out how bright the stars shone when Grand Seiko created these two new watches.Grand Seiko takes the celebrations of the 55th anniversary of the 44GS seriously. We saw the first of the 55th-anniversary models annou...
Never change a winning team. In Le Brassus, Audemars Piguet came up with something even better - updating its winning team. When the Nautilus forfeited, it left the court wide open for the Royal Oak to sweep in and grab the gold. And thats exactly what it does by pitching more updated versions in the 2022 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch family. Theres the revamped Jumbo of course, but the star player is supported by a wide range of capable teammates that all have their own special skills.The ground-breaking Royal Oak is celebrating its 50th anniversary. And thats why Audemars Piguet launched an updated version of the Gerald Genta-designed watch that was first released in 1972. But in the wak...
I used to be exclusively a time-only watch lover with a strong passion for divers. After I got the first version of the Baltic Bicompax, however, I discovered a world of balanced complications. I still find three-register chronographs very busy, but even that has changed after recently swapping into a GMT chronograph. So whats changed? I have a crush on cool uni-compax chronographs, and my wallet knows it all too well.Well, the chronograph function is a difficult complication to master, and good ones are not cheap. The haptic delight of clicking the pusher then resetting it has a charm of its own, and so do the dials. I will admit to having a deep affinity for the symmetrical look of a uni-c...
Its no secret that I am a huge fan of the Royal Oak design, so I was incredibly excited to see the presentation hosted by Audemars Piguet on the new Royal Oak 16202 Jumbo. We knew it was coming, as AP had already communicated the discontinuation of the 15202 last year.The biggest news, perhaps, is the introduction of the new caliber 7121 for the Royal Oak 16202 Jumbo. It s the first time in 50 years that the Jumbo gets a new movement. That doesnt mean, however, that the previous 2121 movement didnt receive any updates. One of the designers at Audemars Piguet told us during the 40th anniversary that the 2121 has been the subject of small changes over the years. He wasnt clear about the change...
To show that Bvlgari has definitely made its way into Haute Horlogerie and to connect that fact to its beginnings as a jeweler, the brand has launched two new members of its Sinfonia Della Meccanica. The Bvlgari Octo Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon is a blue version of the watch that was first released last year in black. And the Bvlgari Octo Roma Emerald Grande Sonnerie houses the brands most complicated minute-repeater movement yet. Welcome to a concert by the Bvlgari Symphony Orchestra! Letting you experience the beats of a mechanical watch movement through the music created by multiple hammers and gongs!Very few of us might actually end up with one of these on the wrist. That may be becaus...
I am always excited to meet a watch that has a world s-first story to tell. As the title suggests, the 1976 Citizen Crystron became the first solar-powered analog quartz watch. Over the years, many of us have happened to be members of different watch forums and open or closed watch groups on Facebook or WhatsApp. It s interesting that you meet there some people you wouldn t meet anywhere else. You even don t need to know more about them. It s just about enough you all share the knowledge or affection for a special kind of watch. I have become a member of such micro-communities myself. Members of one group in particular know that I am after any weirdo watch that pops up. Without asking or rem...
This article has been on my mind for a long time now: The Omega Speedmaster in movies. Weve covered the appearance of Speedmasters in movies and TV shows every now and then, but we never compiled a proper list of movies that featured Speedmaster watches.I know Apollo 13 has been the movie when it comes to the Speedmaster, but I only saw that movie much later than its release date. Back in 2000, after one year of owning my Omega Speedmaster, I visited the cinema with my then-girlfriend to watch Frequency. In that movie, the main character John Sullivan (played by Jim Caviezel) communicates with his long-dead father Frank Sullivan (played by Dennis Quaid) via an old ham radio. I enjoyed the mo...
The Beatles already knew that money cant buy you love. But it can buy you a watch no one else has. LVMH owner Bernard Arnault got himself a Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5740/1G perpetual calendar. Youve seen it on the internet - Im talking about the Tiffany Blue one. Theres a lot to say about that watch aesthetically, but it also raises a very valid question: will LVMH owner Bernard Arnault also become the owner of Patek Philippe? Not a Patek Philippe WATCH - he can get his hands on any model he likes and have it customized in any way he likes it. I m talking about the Patek Philippe BRAND.Youve seen what has happened to the Nautilus after Patek Philippe announced that the ultra-desirable sp...
We did an article last year on everything about a watch that wasn t the watch itself - straps, bracelets, clasps, and spring bars. It seemed exhaustive in its reach (and in the writing), but it wasn t. That was the primer for the respectable, polite, middle-of-the-road people that accessorize their watches accordingly. This article, on the other hand, is downright funky. We ll get to some unique strap options that are still accessible, like Erika s Originals and Bund pads, but I m going to be showing you some weird, sometimes old, truly unique options as well. It will be polarizing. Words will be said in the comments that cannot be un-said. I may be asked to never do an article like this aga...
During Watches & Wonders last year, Zenith graced us with the new Defy Extreme. The most extreme Defy model was not just a tour de force in materials and design. The main attraction was, without a doubt, the 1/100th of a second automatic high-frequency chronograph movement. We had the pleasure of witnessing one of the models from up close. Besides the amazing movement, I was pleasantly surprised by how comfortable the Defy Extreme was with its titanium case and bracelet. Now the brand makes the watch even lighter by releasing the Zenith Defy Extreme Carbon.I love Zenith because the brand shows great variety in its collections. The biggest joy for me is in the Chronomaster line, and espec...
