Another Sunday, another showdown! This time, we are covering watches for globetrotters. This is the battle of the sporty steel-bezel GMTs, the Explorer II versus the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 GMT. Jorg will defend the Japanese contender, and Thomas will take the Swiss corner. If you are in the market for a high-end steel travel watch, this one is for you! Oh, and if youre not, you are still welcome to vote!But, of course, before we get into all of that, we have to look at last weeks battle of chronograph giants.Omega Speedmaster vs. DaytonaLast week, RJ and Daan pitted the current Speedy against the current Daytona. Granted, this may have been a home game for the Speedmaster since we have qu...
Ants. Well, what can I say? I ve been in this game a while, and that s a new one for me. However, I must admit it beats the painfully strained nonsense poured into many of the press releases we receive. Honestly, it gets out of hand with claims that the latest shade of blue takes inspiration from the kiss of a cool easterly breeze on the third Wednesday in March when standing barefoot on a rock 73% covered in moss, or something similarly ridiculous. At least Ryan Lee, the founder of Biotic, just came out and said it: he likes ants, and, so, here is his ant watch. Surprisingly, the Formicidae is a lot better than its inspiration suggests…Let s address the elephant in the room before goi...
When Louis Moinet introduced the downsized version of its Memoris Spirit Chronograph earlier this year, it was, in my opinion, a masterstroke. Since 2003, the Swiss brand from Saint Blaise in Neuchatel has made a name for itself by creating exuberant and technically impressive watches. Louis Moinet always presented its watches in 46mm cases, a sizeable chunk of wrist real estate. However, it was nothing short of miraculous when Jean-Marie Schaller s team squeezed a 311-component movement into a 40.7mm case. Especially when you consider that the decrease in size did not lessen the visual impact. In fact, it amplified it. To coincide with the launch of the new, revamped Memoris Spirit Chronogr...
A close-to-60-year-old book should rarely be reprinted unless it s a piece of classical literature. Watches by Cecil Clutton and George Daniels is not a novel or collection of poems. Rather, it is a book about timepieces, and mainly pocket watches at that. Yet, what these two fine gentlemen put together in 1965 is not only still relevant, but it also forms the basis of what horologists have since built upon.Watches - A Complete History of the Technical and Decorative Development of the Watch is an extensive reference work on general horological history. As such, it is a must for anyone interested in this subject. I need to warn you that it is not an easy read, nor should it be. After all, we...
The designers behind the new and updated C65 Aquitaine deserve a handshake. It comes in one millimeter smaller, rather than larger. This White Sand version with a curved sapphire bezel that shines for nautical miles is the best model in the entire lineup. ?I have been covering Christopher Ward for a few years now. I don t review everything the brand releases, just watches that I find unique. Two years ago, I was curious to see the unusual C65 Trident with a power reserve complication and the C65 GMT Worldtimer. When it comes to vintage-inspired pieces, I also reached for the C65 Skipper Chronograph. Despite all of them sharing the same case style, each piece had a unique character. I liked t...
Earlier in the year, I wrote an article on starting a watch collection with a budget of $10,000. It was quite a challenging task, even though I know that $10,000 is a pretty significant budget. Not many people (myself included) have that kind of money lying around to go out and splurge on three watches. That said, some people do. But to try and make sure we re covering all bases and budgets, some of my fellow editors and I have decided to half that budget. So, can I come up with a solid starter collection for $5,000?The last time around, I decided on the types of watches I wanted to buy first of all. I picked a chronograph, a GMT, and a diver. I m not going to be quite so strict with myself ...
NOMOS Glashtte is well known for its great designs at attainable price levels. Christopher Waluga, founder of the NOMOS Watch Club, set out to go one better on both of those qualities. And he succeeded. Introducing the NOMOS Watch Club 36 ref. 703.S4.Fan inputThe watch came about through a collaborative design process with NOMOS Watch Club, an online fan base of NOMOS owners and admirers. In a less direct process compared to the recent Airain, fans were asked for input on the design. The ideas were collected and formed the foundation for the design we see here.The result is a very attractive watch carrying quite an apt name - Watch Club 36. It is based on the NOMOS Club, but it s quite diff...
What are the right colors for a watch? For some, it s simply a matter of picking. For others, it is a make-or-break situation. It s not just the choice of a color, but it s all about the right shade of a specific color. I am part of the latter group. A watch cannot just have a blue or a green dial or bezel. Let s blame it on my former life working for a design agency. But that s exactly why I love it when brands take the time to pick their colors with care. Leave it up to Serica owner Jer?me Burgert to take this task very seriously. He is dedicated to making sure every detail is meticulously chosen for his watches. It s why this new blue Serica 5303 is absolutely on point. It introduces two ...
Another auction? Well, not quite another. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is staging its first-ever mid-year watch sale in New York on June 11th and 12th. This new event is a strong indication of how much the market is bubbling. Phillips is certainly wasting no time in capitalizing on the soaring interest and demand from collectors. The watch-specialist team also demonstrates how much traction it has built stateside by assembling a sought-after lineup for this weekend. This includes an exotic lemon-dial Paul Newman Daytona ref. 6264 with a $1.2 million price tag, no less.What about the full lineup?Phillips has announced 163 lots, almost a third of which represent an assortment...
If youve never seen a Fortis watch in the metal, I can imagine one thing above all terrifying you from afar - those mighty lugs! The redefined tool watches of the Fortis collection, with the exception of the relatively recent Marinemaster, all have that trait in common. Off the wrist, on screen, and under the microscope, their blockish, tall-sided cases culminating in the most intimidating lug profile youve ever seen can look almost illegally aggressive. But once you get the watches in hand and, most importantly, on the wrist, you realize how the whole package comes together to form something truly novel. As always, hands-on experience of a watch is the only way to judge it fairly. Thats exa...
It is no secret that we love a good watch strap. Not only is it the easiest element to interact with on your watch, but it also offers a great way to customize the aesthetic. We are proud to announce that on Monday, the 13th of June at 9:00 AM CEST, the Fratello Shop is launching three high-quality leather straps. These are straps that our editors love and approve of, and we re thrilled to bring them to you, the Fratelli, at last.As you know if you follow our Strap Check column, we love how a new strap can change the look of a watch. But a strap also holds your watch to your wrist, and the inability to do so comfortably can be a real deal-breaker. Here at Fratello, we think comfort is key, s...
What are the best ways to deal with vintage watch dealers? If we all knew the answer, our lives could be easier. Although I am much more of a researcher and writer at heart, I used to make a living in the watch world as a vintage dealer. Having only recently made the switch to full-time writing, the memories of my trading adventures are still fresh in my mind. So are the countless amazing interactions with collectors, as well as the numerous awkward encounters.I thought I should use my experience to share five tips on how to do business with vintage watch dealers. Hopefully, this helps you not only to score a solid deal but to also have a pleasurable experience along the way. But Thomas, why...
Its been a while since weve had a straight-up giveaway on Fratello. Thats entirely my fault. Furnished with a handful of cool and quirky watches to hand over to the Fratelli, Ive been working through this stash in between my frequent travels. To many of us on the team who have become more than accustomed to heading into the office (or staying at home) throughout Corona and having the opportunity to pound the keys, the return to the road has hit us like a freight train. Happily, though, a window of opportunity has presented itself to me to write this article, and so I would like to present to you, the Fratelli, an opportunity to own this rather fetching cream-dialed Mitch Mason Chronicle watc...
I passed on the Seiko Think The Earth wn-1 a few times before. But my curiosity about bizarre watches multiplied by encouragement from peers (hello, Mike!) made me pull the trigger on this wonder from early 2000s. And I couldn t have done any better. It doesn t look very wearable. It even doesn t look like a watch that can display the time. These were two major reasons why I held back from it for a long time. But when it popped up again (or when Mike made it pop up in front of me again), I gave it another look. I was trying to understand all the excitement that Mike and a few other fellow collectors hold for it. After all, I can relate to that feeling for sure. People who have one really spe...
Last year, Cartier surprised us with a most unexpected launch of three colorful Tank Must watches. I must admit, I found these pieces so amazing and charming that the series had already sold out before I could even make a choice. It was quite noteworthy that Cartier announced that the pre-launch of the Tank Must would take place in Europe, while the global release would happen a few months later.This announcement caused some excitement indeed. Soon, there was a shortage at the boutiques here in Europe, and soon after, it appeared that all the stock had sold out. Collectors weren t sure how to view this release. With Europe running out of stock, would the rest of the world even get any? It go...
It s funny how when we first start our journey into watch collecting, many of us have no intention of collecting straps too. I m sure most people who eventually amass an alarming number of watch straps probably never set out with that goal in mind. But, one day, we all wake up, look at the sheer number of straps before us, and wonder how things got to be this way. I don t know about you, but I have loads of straps I bought to try out that never even saw a watch because they were just a bit rubbish when they turned up on my doorstep. But some straps that I certainly can t say that about are the Zuludiver Sailcoth straps I have in my collection.I bought my first one with my Breitling Superocea...
Before I jump into my confession, let me just say: of course, I didn t buy the watch. It s we re talking about here! Despite a rather impressive offering of stainless steel sports models in the displays, none of them were for sale that day. But that s not the point of this article. I m here to confess. And though this is something that some of my colleagues here at Fratello already know, and though it might not seem like a big deal, it kind of was… To me, at least. The confession is a simple one. And it s the fact that, despite my love for watches having taken its grasp many years ago, before last Friday morning, I had never entered a luxury watch brand s boutique.Now, I get that it m...
We hear the words legend and icon used (very) frequently and, oddly upon reflection, interchangeably in the watch industry. However, when it comes to the Blancpain Air Command, the legend of the watch s origins is far more apt than its well-deserved iconism. Why? Because no one is quite sure where it came from or from what exactly its name derived. What is sure, though, is the fact this iteration is one ice-cool customer and boasts a surprisingly wearable aesthetic despite its undeniable luxury status.Whenever the conversation turns towards super-high-end watches (and, make no mistake, this Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph qualifies as exactly that), it s easy to lose focus on the p...
Grey skies and green hills - the British Isles provide endless picturesque landscapes perfect for soulful longing and distant gazing. That longing would be for watches, of course. And the United Kingdom delivers plenty of those as well. With a rich heritage of watchmaking to stand upon, the craft is returning to England in full force. Christopher Ward has become a well-known name in independent watchmaking with unique and refreshed approaches to old standards. Bremont is proving that British watches can be very British indeed with new limited editions that are primarily made in England. Scotland makes its contribution as well with anOrdain and its beautiful enamel dials. Whatever your fancy,...
Jean-Claude Biver, an industry veteran with a remarkable resume, joins young watch brand Norqain as an advisor to the board.Jean-Claude BiverBiver s list of accomplishments in the industry is impressive. In 1981, he purchased the rights to Blancpain. After restoring its reputation as a much-respected Haute Horlogerie brand, he then sold it to the Swatch Group in 1992. He is the very same man responsible for connecting Omega to James Bond in 1995, as well as putting Hublot back on the horological map with the Big Bang in 2004. Besides becoming CEO of TAG Heuer in 2014, Biver also became the head of the watches and jewelry division of the LVMH (which owns Hublot, TAG Heuer, Bvlgari, and Zenith...
