Titanium is what it s all about these days. We see more and more brands dip their toes in the titanium pool or expand the number of titanium watches in their collection. Unimatic has just taken its first steps in the titanium universe with three new releases featuring a titanium case. Two of them are familiar models that come in a combination of titanium and blue. The third is a great-looking Modello Uno GMT that is a long-awaited follow-up to the GMT model the brand collaborated on with Hodinkee. The GMT model is the new pinnacle of the Modello Uno line, so let s find out more.For those of you who are regular readers of Fratello, you probably know that I like the Unimatic brand a lot. I lov...
The rise of microbrands is one of the key developments of todays watch market. We get a press release for a new Kickstarter brand almost daily. The vast majority make terrible watches and do not survive. The small selection that makes it, however, has the potential to be warmly embraced by the watch community. Several of them are highly successful, consistently selling out their limited production runs. Those runs are usually so small, however, that they do not pose a threat to big brands in terms of numbers. But they do challenge them in other important ways.At Fratello, some of us are big fans of certain microbrands. Others still have some justifiable reservations. In this article, I will ...
The Panerai Luminor PAM00116 was never an outrageously flirtatious watch. Made between 2002 and 2003 in a series of 300 pieces, this 44mm model was the titanium version of the steel Luminor Base PAM00118. The brown dial was the most exotic feature, if you dont count the grayish titanium, that is. Still, that lightweight alloy is always more technical and functional than attention-seeking by nature. But a renewed meeting with the watch sparked something in me. Twenty years after first seeing it, this particular Luminor brought back some memories. Im sure you ve also had this same kind of experience with watches from your past. And if you can t think of any to talk about in the coffee corner t...
Here at Fratello HQ, it s a common occurrence to see more than a couple of our editors scrolling through pre-owned watch sites. It s part of the daily ritual. Whether or not you re looking to buy something, it can be a lot of fun and a learning experience as well. Who knows? You may even come across something you have never seen before. The only risk is that said watch may quickly become your new grail. Regardless, it s something that we all enjoy. Every now and then, we put together a pre-owned spotlight - a list of highlights to showcase some pieces that have recently caught our eye. After our fair share of scouring the pre-owned sites, I m here today to share with you four watches that go...
With Swiss heritage stretching back over a century to 1919, independent family ownership, and an extensive catalog of mens and womens watches, Titoni is a brand that deserves more of the spotlight than it sometimes receives. As part of such a diverse catalog, some models are fundamental. Nestled between the dress watch and the toolish diver sits the Airmaster.This is the model that will be able to satisfy most of the needs of most customers. While the Titoni Airmaster model occupies the safe center space as a moderately sized, elegant three-hander with a date, the new Glacier Turquoise colorway pushes that understated nature to one side with a big smack of vibrancy. This new Airmaster model ...
Citizen has released a new ethical watch series in its sustainable-concept womens collection, Citizen L. The Ambiluna EM100 boasts light-powered Eco-Drive technology, lab-grown ethical diamonds, and knitted fabric straps made of recycled ECOPET material. The three new EM100 models take inspiration for their design themes from the universal elements of Air, Earth, and Fire. The Fire model is a limited edition to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Citizen L.At one with natureCitizen L is a collection that has been touting sustainable manufacturing ever since the introduction of the Ambiluna line in 2016. Calling it a new style of luxury watch, the Japanese giant says the backbone of the Ambilun...
Regular readers of this series of articles know that it s all about beautiful and special watches from the past. But what about a model that is still in production? And to be even more specific, it s just about a dial color. I have wanted to write about the Vacheron Constantin Overseas 4500V with the stunning brown dial for a while now. But I was also a bit hesitant because it was simply a dial color of a watch that is part of Vacheron Constantin s collection. Still, every time I look at the watch, I realize the huge transformational power that the color has. So here is the story of a dial color.What made me decide to write this story after all? The answer was actually very simple. Besides c...
We are taking things high-end for this weeks Sunday Morning Showdown! Welcome to the battle of the recently released integrated-bracelet powerhouses in full 18K pink gold. This is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph versus the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712/1R power reserve/moonphase. We are trying to save on groceries and the power bill, and we are fed up. Today, were splurging on precious metal and complications!We find Daan representing Vacheron Constantin. Thomas is leading the lines for Patek Philippe?today.Yema versus SericaBut first things first. We were quite a lot more financially responsible last week, pitting two relatively affordable GMTs against each other. You, my dear F...
If there is one complication that seems to be low on the desirability meter, it is the moonphase. For me, its been the same, but with some sharp new releases over the last couple of years, I have come to appreciate it. Im no sailor or fisherman dependent on the changing tides, and I m guessing that most watch lovers aren t either. While this may make it pretty irrelevant for the majority of us, is the moonphase complication cool nonetheless?You might find me shallow, but I tend to view this particular classic dial twist in a purely aesthetic sense. But isnt that OK in 2022? Im merely trying to be pragmatic here, but for me, the craftsmanship of it is paramount. Plus, a miniature engraved art...
Let s have a look at the Longines Record Heritage Chronograph. You d be forgiven if you forgot, but Longines was one of the absolute kings of chronographs back in the day. As such, when the brand does a new one, it is like Lancia building a new road-legal rally car. You expect a mud-slinging beast of a car with a bonkers design - a Stratos or a Delta Integrale. But I would be scared that modern regulations, market analysis, excessive layers of management within the group, and design by committee would result in a dull, lifeless, and obese dilution of a rally car. So what do we have here? A revival of what made Longines great in its heyday or a bloated family hatchback of a watch?You might fe...
Last week, Nacho and I talked about creating a list of the best titanium dive watches out there. And wouldn t you know it? As if we knew what was coming, this week, announced its new Deepsea Challenge. This 50mm fully titanium beast of a watch is s first fully titanium non-prototype timepiece. It s a total coincidence, as the watch caught us off guard just as much as it did most people. It does, however, give this list a little bit of extra newsworthy relevance. The most famous watch brand in the world has broken into the world of titanium timepieces. Is it the start of the revolution? While that doesn t seem likely, it will be good to make a list of some of the best titanium dive watches ...
The watch that made the biggest impression on me this year is the Tissot PRX that I bought just before the summer. The amount of sheer joy I get from wearing the watch has been priceless. It s the perfect affordable daily wearer for under $1,000. A big part of the joy of wearing it comes from the great bracelet. It is the perfect proof that a bracelet of an affordable watch is an asset rather than a liability. But recently, I have been wearing the watch on several Delugs rubber straps specifically made for the Tissot PRX. They are the perfect alternative to the bracelet, making the PRX an even more versatile watch.I must confess that I have never been much of a strap guy. Usually, I prefer a...
Finally. Yes, finally, I can write about the time that Nacho and I were locked in a tiny, scorching-hot room with no windows. It all happened months ago in Geneva during an event called Watches and Wonders. What happened is that we were shown the phenomenal Ferdinand Berthoud Chronome?tre FB3 SPC, but we were not allowed to write about it or show the fabulous pics that Nacho took of the different executions of the new watch. But now, my Fratelli, the cat is out of the bag.One of the highlights of Watch and Wonders 2022 that took place earlier this past spring was, without a shadow of a doubt, the new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronome?tre FB3 SPC. Yes, the fact that the watch was cloaked in secrecy...
We receive many questions from people asking us to help them decide on their watch purchases. Most of the time, these come through the website, but often also directly via a message or phone call. Just recently, I suddenly received a Whatsapp message from a friend of a friend, asking me for help regarding a watch purchase. This person let me know that it was time for him to buy a nice watch, but the question was whether it should be a brand-new watch or a vintage one. In our exchange of messages, the following concrete question was asked:I think I am more interested in new watches, as the idea of owning someone elses watch doesnt sound attractive. I never buy pre-owned things, but theres so ...
Czech inventor Zdenek Jiskra won a bronze medal at the 1937 Paris Fair. And the design and mechanics of the perpetual calendar clock that he won it for are beyond fascinating.The Datumatic table clock shows minutes, hours, the weekday, date, month, and the last number of a year. Through a panoramic window on the back of the beautifully carved case, it even displays an AM/PM indication, just to make setting the time easier.Timeless DatumaticAnd the best part is yet to come. The calendar mechanism in the Datumatic can process the length of different months. It can even display a leap year and show the magical 29th of February. All by itself too - as low maintenance as you always wished for. We...
These days, it s rare that a new Seiko escapes notice. The brand is seriously popular now, and the watches are more globally available than ever. Every so often, though, a new piece arrives and cant be purchased everywhere. The Seiko Metronome is that watch. As you ll see, though, the brand name isn t exactly what it seems.I have a confession to make. It has been a long time since I purchased a new Seiko. There s nothing wrong with the brand s watches, yet I have found myself a bit overwhelmed by the sheer number of releases over the past couple of years. Plus - and this likely draws more upon my overall interests - Ive been buying more vintage. Still, my interest was piqued when I saw the n...
If youve been following this series, youll know that last week, Thomas spent some quality time with my Cartier Tank Solo. The week before, Lex spent some time getting to know RJs Speedmaster 57 Replica, and before that, Daan spent a week with Lexs Grand Seiko. This great watch exchange continues this week, and as Thomas borrowed my watch the week before, I figured Id borrow one of his. Though I could have gone with any number of iconic classics, I couldnt pass up the chance of trying something slightly out of my comfort zone. So I picked a watch that I know has a lot of sentimental value to Thomas - a memento of the birth of his son - the Grand Seiko SBGW231. He was kind enough to loan it t...
It sounds a bit dirty, but I m definitely being influenced. Furthermore, I know that I m influencing others too. I notice that I don t really feel particularly proud or comfortable as I write this. It seems like it s not cool to admit that Instagram - or any other social medium, for that matter - is affecting your thought processes. But I think that for me, Instagram has actually played and still plays an essential role in the enjoyment I experience while collecting watches. And based on the reactions I get and the people I speak to, I think it does the same for many others. Why should we be ashamed of that?When I noticed that the feed on my personal Instagram account was featuring more and ...
This year, introduced several new Yacht-Master models during Watches and Wonders. The 42mm white gold version with the Falcon s Eye dial is one, and the yellow gold version is another. But how come the Yacht-Master receives little love compared to the other sports models from ?Reference 16628, the debut Yacht-Master model from 1992. Image source: XupesI love the Yacht-Master. Ever since I got into watches, I have had a weak spot for this quirky-looking . The Yacht-Master was the last addition to the core? sports collection, with the first model making its debut in 1992. In full gold, mind you! It wasnt until 1999 that introduced a steel version of the Yacht-Master.Even then, it had luxurio...
It has been ten years since Tudor introduced the Black Bay and made its comeback in the US. It marked a new beginning for the company and a change of strategy, but now Tudor really does mean different things to different people. We have several generations of aficionados working at Fratello. Interestingly, the younger writers now seem to have a completely different view of Tudor than the older colleagues. It sparked a lively debate during a recent editorial meeting. For some, Tudor remains Lite. For others, it is one of the better enthusiast brands out there. This is something worth unpacking!The core question is this: is Tudor succeeding in stepping out of s shadow? And, perhaps more impor...
