It s a new year and time for a new series of lists. For each article in this new series, we decided to focus on one famous watch and pick our five favorite references ever produced. Four of these references will be based on the historical importance of the specific watch in the grand scheme of things. Though there may be some overlap, it s not a question of which references are the most collectible or of the highest value on the market. The fifth pick is our Fratello favorite that takes the current market price and collectability into account, potentially making it a sleeper reference. As such, the last pick could be described as our wild card. We ll kick the series off with the Submariner....

We didn t have to wait long to witness the continuation of 2022 s watch collaboration trend. It s month one of 2023, and we already have our first release to combine the efforts of two independent British brands. Maybe it has been the mantra since the pandemic that companies are stronger together, but it s always exciting to see the creation of combined efforts. The Fears Christopher Ward stands for more than brand brand. The goal of the collaboration is to celebrate and raise awareness of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. So much so that the new Alliance 01 timepiece is only available to club members of the Alliance and at a limitation of 50 pieces.Since its founding in 2020...

My jaw doesn t drop often. And it definitely doesn t drop when looking at watches. But when I spotted the Honey Green modification for a private client of Artisans de Geneve, I paid both parties a standing ovation (while sitting in my chair).What s unusual, first of all, is that I m writing about a watch. In five years and over 300 stories, this is only my second article on a watch from the Crown. I know you never asked, but I don t like modern watches. I truly don t. So there hasn t been anything from lately that would get me off my chair. Secondly, I am not a huge fan of gold watches, and it s very rare that I fall in love with sunshine. And as a third point, I am not a big fan of watc...

There, I said it, and mean it. I do believe that the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon is a splendid piece of Haute Horlogerie, and I d have it over a Nautilus. Obviously, I can say whatever I want as this is altogether immaterial and way out of my budget. But still, there is a reason the latest LF releases end up on my virtual desk at Fratello. Does that make me biased? Well, probably, but I honestly try to keep a fairly objective eye and mind. To prove my point, I will admit to the Grand Sport being too wide for my liking, but do you know what? I would happily invest in a personal trainer and wrist exercises (no, don t go there) to make it fit.But my picky taste of 36C39mm watches is ...

Zenith has done it again, surprising us with another great classic from its archives! This new Zenith Defy Revival A3691 is the second modern reissue celebrating the unique style of the original Defy series that debuted in 1969. For this new Defy, Zenith reintroduces the brilliant look of the reference A3691 from 1971. The watch combines the unique design of the original Defy with a beautiful deep red gradient dial. In a surprising twist, the new Defy Revival A3691 is a permanent addition to the Zenith collection. What s not to love?!Zenith has been showering us with great releases over the past couple of years. As a result, the current collection is a great mix of reissues of the brand s cl...

The other day, I did something I hadn t done for quite a while: I spent an hour browsing random vintage watch ads. And what a good time spent it was! I came out of it with three fantastic Casio watches to share with you today.?I usually do it the other way around - I track down vintage ads for a bunch (or 20 bunches) of watches. As a co-founder of the Ad Agency Of The Year in Slovakia, the country I live in, I have always had an eye for print ads. A few years ago, I decided to share my passion with you, and I wrote a story about unusual Seiko print ads.What do we need (Casio) ads for?Well, nothing, to be honest with you. Some collectors even find it funny to collect some old pieces of magazi...

The Omega Speedmaster Professional will be priced at $7,500 as of February 1st (it was $7,100). The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface? It is now $13,100 instead of $9,100 not even a year ago. That s a price increase of nearly 44%. It almost sounds like is keeping it sane for its sports models with increases of approximately 2%. The catch here is that you can t buy them anyway. Nacho, Lex, and RJ talk about the price increases of watch brands in 2023.This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Wrist checkAs always, we start with a quick wrist check during the podcast recording. Lex is wearing his Grand Seiko SBGX341 on a tropic rubb...

Let s start today s Pre-Owned Spotlight article with a little disclaimer: the watches I present below serve as mental bookmarks. You could see them as pieces of inspiration for starting a pre-owned hunt of your own. Let s just dive in immediately, and you ll see what I mean.This is the first time I m writing for the Pre-Owned Spotlight series, so I can still draw from my own little watch list. Now, the list is not that long because, as I already told you here, I m quite content with all the options I can choose from in the morning. But there are always dreams and other interesting watches that pop up when I visit get-togethers and browse around on forums.Image source: rorymoer on Horlogeforu...

Sometimes watch releases just come out of left field. Truth be told, I hadn t focused too much on Vulcain since the relaunch of the Cricket last year. But I was expecting many things from the Swiss maison… just not a skin diver. From time to time, I get an email from DHL telling me that I should expect a delivery from Vulcain SA. Thats always exciting news as I usually dont know whats in the parcel. That is precisely how these two beautiful Vulcain Skindiver models came to me last week, just in time to check them out before the official launch today.And while I had them both, the watches took a trip to Frankfurt with me to our latest Fratello On Air recording. Make sure you check out t...

For a sweet ten-year run from 2012 with the Octo to 2022 with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, Bvlgari dominated the world records for ultra-thin mechanical watches. But, as they say, all good things must end. So perhaps its not a jaw-dropping surprise that the Roman jeweler is announcing the conclusion of its quest for thinness. Insisting the Octo Finissimo is not taking a final bow, Bvlgari has staged an ber sendoff with high-tech gadgetry for the Octo Finissimo Ultra to open up a new digital future.The no-news newsIt all sounds a bit mysterious if not confusing, to be honest. On one hand, the Octo Finissimos presence was evidently not the focus at this years LVMH Watch Week. On the other hand, ...

While many of my fellow editors said it s challenging to pen a Watch Goals article, it is actually easy for me. Perhaps it is due to the simple fact that I will not mention anything new. Everything I have planned for 2023 has already been on my watch to-do list for years. Sadly, I m a person who procrastinates more than I should, but this article will hopefully help me realize those plans. Don t think of anything crazy. It is just a few boring things like maintenance and collection consolidation, perhaps with just one or two new watch purchases. We will see how it goes.Once your collection reaches a substantial number of watches, it s time to take a step back and look at them. We take things...

Big news from Cartier! The new Cartier Tank Fran?aise is here! The model that debuted back in 1996 has now received an update. Cartier s new Tank Fran?aise has a mostly satin finish, a recessed crown, and a more rounded case profile. Furthermore, the large-size model comes with an automatic movement.An early Tank from 1922The iconic TankThe Cartier Tank goes all the way back to 1917 - wartime - hence the inspiration from the Renault tank that you ll find in the case shape of the Tank watch. From then onwards, Cartier introduced several variations and iterations of the Tank. Perhaps the most iconic is the version that was introduced back in 1922, the Tank Louis Cartier (which we called the Ki...

Since the end of last November, the Omega Speedmaster Professional 310.30.42.50.01.001 (Hesalite) and 310.30.42.50.01.002 (sapphire) models have been leaving the production facility in Bienne with a long-awaited bracelet upgrade with an easy-adjustment clasp. It was long-awaited because, when the current Speedmaster Moonwatch was introduced in early 2021, it was one of the few critiques that the watch received.When Omega introduced the Speedmaster Chronoscope later that year, it came on a bracelet with an easy-adjustment system. At that time, Omega CEO Raynald Aeschlimann promised that the Moonwatch bracelet would also get an upgrade at some point. Some Speedmaster fans, including our own Be...

I will happily admit to having a soft spot for the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, and I would love a silver-dialed 38mm version. It has transcended its integrated-bracelet-stepchild status, and this is highly visible in its pre-loved prices. Though it was a long time coming, unfortunately for me, they are now 40C60% above what they were two years ago. That was the same time I had a weekend with The Beauty and The Beast - the standard Laureato and Laureato Absolute - and was torn between the two. Let me explain.In the fall of 2020, I had just segued from hosting my own watch-themed YouTube channel to writing and had two weekend-loan watches. After calming my nerves from having over $30,000 in a p...

Fratello On Air returns with Balazs and Mike in the same room! In this episode, Balazs travels to Frankfurt, and among some surprise topics, the duo decides to engage in a collection spotlight. Hear about four attractive watches from each. Enjoy it! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Yes, Balazs has made his way north from Karlsruhe to Mainhattan. Both decided to check out the local Seiko boutique and dine on the Fratello favorite, schnitzel. Then, it was time to record an episode with a collection spotlight.Handgelenks KontrolleThis week s Handgelenks Kontrolle features some exciting new arrivals. Mike is wearing his new 1...

Refinishing is a topic of debate. Some say you should never have a watch refinished. Others have their watches touched up with every service. Few people realize, however, that refinishing is a craft that takes great skill, so there is a big difference from one refinished watch to the next. I thought I would meet up with our friends at Tempus to see how it is done.Mark from Tempus was generous with his time and knowledge, sharing the entire process with me. He redid the surface finishing of a fairly hard-worn Explorer 114270. Lets see how it is done and what it entails.Refinishing: yes or no?In my vintage-dealing days, the subject of refinishing was a source of much debate. A vintage watch w...

By now, we all know the famous G-Shock CasiOak. Pretty much straight after its introduction, the watch got its famous nickname and became an incredible hit for G-Shock. Along the way, we have seen the introduction of various versions using different materials and designs. The latest series of the G-Shock CasiOak is the new GM-2100C Metal-Covered Utility Series. The series introduces three new models that come with a familiar case design and execution but combine it with fabric straps, resulting in a new aesthetic that is both recognizable and refreshing.When G-Shock introduced the original resin-cased GA2100 series in 2019, it took the world by storm. In the summer of 2021, G-Shock introduce...

Like many people, I got into watch collecting through microbrands. While not to everyone s tastes, microbrands relative affordability allows you to try out watch-collecting concepts more affordably than some more prominent brands. Different people have different budgets to spend on watches. To some people, $500 is an impulse purchase; to others, it takes time to save up and justify such an expense. That s where microbrands offer collectors some real value for money. I believe that s precisely where RZE slots in with the Valour Chronograph.This is the second generation of the Valour Chronograph - you can read my review of the first-generation model here. The new version features a revamped a...

The golden era of watches was either the 1950s or the 1960s. I d say it s open for debate. But claiming the 1980s or 1990s was the golden age of watches is just dead wrong. Still, some watch designs from the later eras mentioned have proven strong enough to keep evolving without losing their origins. The first Yacht-Master from 1992, for example, is a watch that is still clearly visible in its current iterations. And apart from the Yacht-Master 16622, this morning, you will also read about the Corum Bubble, which debuted in 2000 but was designed in the 1990s. Theres also a Panthere de Cartier bag, which is linked to a watch that debuted in the 1980s but was also very popular in the decade ...

I ll be honest with you from the get-go: completely black watches aren t my thing. But the story behind the new all-black Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph completely changed my feelings towards it. As it turns out, the design of the SRQ045J1 is based on the looks of the black stopwatches that were being used during the 1972 Winter Olympics in Sapporo, Japan. Seiko made those black to reduce reflection from snow and ice. But wait, there s more.During the 1964 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Seiko used the same stopwatches from the 89ST series. At the time, however, they were executed in white. It s interesting to note that those Olympic games were the first ones ever organized in Asi...