Urwerk exists in a rarefied space occupied by brands of a different species than the Swiss norm. Hyper-modern yet exhibiting a strong sense of craftsmanship, Urwerk s designs are in an exclusive league indeed. The UR-120 Space Black is created within the brand s secret lab by artisans with their eyes on the future rather than in the rearview mirror.I bet you ll find it more challenging to name tech- and innovation-centric watch brands. Powerful independents like MB&F blaze the way, often high in the price stratosphere. Meanwhile, brands like Linde Werdelin, Gorilla, and Behrens lead a small pack of the more reasonably priced avant-garde. But while many of these brands sometimes dabble in...

Coinciding with the Wheels & Waves surf-and-motorcycle festival in Biarritz, France, Breitling unveils two motorcycle-themed Top Time watches. Kickstarting the event is the third collaboration between Breitling and Australian surf-style brand and motorcycle customizer Deus Ex Machina. Also returning is the Triumph Top Time edition, both now part of Breitling s permanent collection. The watches now use the Breitling manufacture B01 chronograph caliber instead of the Valjoux-based Breitling 23. Upgrading the mechanism jolts up the price for both watches, but making them unlimited raises some questions.Breitling describes the Top Time as the unconventional chronograph. While the most recent...

Last August, Christopher Ward released the C60 Trident Pro 300 collection, which quickly grew into one of the brand s most popular lines. Now Christopher Ward gives it a new look with the C60 Atoll 300 models, featuring gradient dials and stainless steel bezels. Additionally, the brand is releasing a new slimline tapered rubber strap, making these two new watches more than just simple additions to the collection.When I wrote the introduction article for the C60 Trident Pro 300, I was quickly impressed by what the collection offered. Considering the specs and materials, the series of modern dive watches packs incredible value for money. You get a slim case profile, a diving bezel with a ceram...

Parmigiani Fleurier, a brand synonymous with discreet luxury since the runaway success of the Tonda PF collection, has done it once again with its new Tonda PF Sport line. Marketed for active leisure times rather than performance sports, the line debuts with a 42mm Chronograph and a 41mm time-only Automatic in both steel and 18K rose gold.With the unveiling of the Tonda PF Sport line, the Swiss independent watch brand says it will retire the Tonda GT, which only came out in 2020. I touched on the evolution as I covered the Tonda GT Chronograph in steel and rose gold last August. The design of the Tonda GT lent itself to the aesthetic codes set for the first PF models in 2021. When you recogn...

More than once, I ve come across comments below articles and posts that try to measure the success of a watch brand by the resale value of its watches on the pre-owned market. But does it make sense to measure a brand s performance this way? Is there a link between the revenue of a watch brand based on its new products and the prices on the secondary watch market?Traditional metrics to measure successWhen analyzing brands success, traditional metrics like (estimated) turnover figures and market share often dominate articles about this topic. However, an insightful indicator of a brand s performance might also be in the pre-owned watch market. This market provides valuable insights into cust...

Is it the steel bezel, or is it the Broad Arrow handset? Its both, actually, and then some. Its a combination of factors that include the aforementioned bezel and hands plus a very dark gray dial, applied logo, and Hesalite crystal. This Speedy Tuesday, I will tell you why I bought a neo-vintage Omega Speedmaster Replica 3594.50 instead of the current Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer.When the latest evolution model of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch debuted, I felt very certain that I was going to buy one. But that initial feeling never materialized. Its not that I dont like the current Speedy - absolutely not. The most basic version with the Hesalite crystal and without the applied ...

It s no secret that I enjoy the presence of the Voiture Chronograph from Nezumi Studios. It s a big value prop in its meca-quartz versions, and should you feel like leveling up, it has a mechanical brother. In 2023, it s close to a small-brand classic, having the same cheeky Zorro-mask design since 2015. Now it s time for a track-ready version and a great alternative for race-colored daily cool.Car- and race-themed watches always seem to be just a tad too much on the nose for me. But I ve still got a love for racing and a penchant for the evocative Gulf-colored TAG Heuer Monaco. I m not saying this Swedish meca-quartz Chronograph is an alternative, or am I? To me, the TAG does indeed evoke S...

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we each discuss our idea of the perfect three-watch collection. Then, we offer up three more choices at a more approachable level. Enjoy the show, and let us know your thoughts. This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Yes, the three-watch collection is a popular topic. This time, it s our turn, and we each offer a trio without any cost constraints. Balazs and I then come back around and do it again with more thoughts on our wallets. We have some similar picks but also some very different choices.Handgelenks KontrolleAfter some talk about watches we ve seen during travel, ...

The summer holidays are coming up. I already have a few watches that I know I will bring with me to Spain this year. Still, it s always nice to look around to see what s new. Here are the summer watches that I would buy today!Jorg and Thomas already cut away a lot of the low-hanging fruit, but I was still able to find some nice ones. For me, summer watches are all about color, wearability, and water resistance. My go-to summer watch is the Seiko SPB317. That s actually not a very colorful one, but it is one of the best-wearing diver s watches out there. And my first pick of the day definitely falls in that same category. Let s dive in, shall we?Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200mIf I cou...

Watches with military history and provenance speak to a subset of watch collectors. Timepieces that were present at significant moments in history speak to the stories they bear witness to. For those who might not have noticed, the United States Armed Forces added a new branch in 2019, the Space Force. Now, in collaboration with Norwegian brand Micromilspec, the branch has a mil-spec watch of its own.Why is the U.S. Space Force commissioning a watch from a Norwegian microbrand? Well, Micromilspec is not your average microbrand. The brand focuses on made-to-order watches for the military, first responders, and other special clients. Its watches are typically not available to the public. Micro...

A while ago, we completed the concept design/target aesthetic of my upcoming VPC Type 37HW. Now we are in the stage of 3D modeling and technical development. This slow, arduous process takes extensive iterating and is probably the least glamorous part of creating a watch. Therefore, you typically don t see much of it, so I m happy to lift the curtain and reveal what happens between design and production.On a more personal note, I am also sharing some of the more mentally challenging aspects I have run into. Building a watch brand is a massive source of joy for me, but it comes with some downsides that I think may be worth sharing too. I promised to share the entire journey, so it feels wrong...

Which of today s three new limited-edition watches is the rarest? The transparent blue Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire is a limited edition of just five pieces. Twice as many Armin Strom Pure Resonance Ultimate Sapphire Horomariobro watches will be made. And these very limited numbers make the Hublot Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold almost look like a regular-series model with its 200-piece production run. To align with the three novelties highlighted today, Im wearing the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Fratello Limited Edition.As you might know, Im quite fond of my Oris Momotaro Divers Sixty-Five, but I didnt pay that much attention to the Divers Sixty-Five Fratello LE. That was for two reason...

To be honest, Father s Day isn t one of those holidays where my family drops everything and celebrates Dad. Perhaps a nice barbecue or a slightly more relaxing day is in order, but it has always been fairly low-key. So, when I was asked to consider a watch-related article for Father s Day, I decided to discuss a special watch I own. The Datejust 16220 is a nice watch by any standard. The one in today s article is a special one, though, because it was my grandfather s.I m truly lucky to have a fantastic family. When I think about my close relatives, it s hard to come up with many negative thoughts - something that s rather uncommon for most clans. Of course, there are closer bonds with some ...

This year is the 40th anniversary of G-Shock, and to say it s going unnoticed would be a lie. We have seen a plethora of new commemorative releases from the Casio sub-brand, including the Remaster Black series just ten days ago. And the celebration shows no sign of slowing down, with G-Shock now introducing seven new Clear Remix models. The concept provides a true look behind the scenes and makes for a stunning series of watches.Basically, I just told you all there is to know about the theme of this series. The idea is as simple as they come, but the execution makes it brilliant. Showing the inner workings of a mechanical watch is something we now take for granted. Skeletonized dials and dis...

Welcome back to Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we follow up last week s titanium face-off with a battle between two Swiss chronographs. But these are not just any chronographs. Both of these watches have a claim to firsts in outer space. You ve read it in the title already, but today s showdown will be between the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch and the Breitling Navitimer B02 Cosmonaute. Respectively, these modern watches are descendants of the first watch worn on the Moon and the first Swiss watch worn in space. But which one of these two cosmic chronographs will take the win? As always, the choice is yours.Now, the Speedmaster is a house favorite here at Fratello. But the Br...

You have already heard about Lex s, Nacho s, Daan s, Thomas s, RJ s, and Henry s GADA watches, but now it s my turn. You are probably not familiar with me because it s my first article on the website. I am the photographer at Fratello, and I also have a GADA watch - the Explorer ref. 124270. It s a watch I bought for my 30th birthday, and it has been in my possession for almost two years now. In other words, it already has a lot of stories to tell!As a former member of the military, I used to move a lot for work, and I was almost convinced that it would be difficult for me to get my hands on a brand-new from an AD without a purchase history. Fortunately, after only one month of waiting and...

My love of quintessential British watchmaking is no secret. Indeed, thanks to my dads emigration from Norway more than 40 years ago, I feel half Brit. But that didnt stop me from doing a sacrilegious thing. I had the first (very rare) watch released by Giles Ellis of the Schofield Watch Company, the Signalman GMT from 2011. But I sold it to a former Fratello colleague because it was feeling too big. Too much writing and less gym time making my arms scrawny? Who knows, but I do kind of regret it, and going hands-on with the Schofield Patinated Bronze Beater B3 brought it all back with the warm feeling of bronze and gold.The Signalman GMT was, at around $3,000, my first big spend on wristwear,...

Another Friday, another Top 5! In this series, we take one classic watch and choose our five favorite references ever produced. Four of these references will be based on the historical importance of the specific watch in the grand scheme of things. Though there may be some overlap, its not a question of which references are the most collectible or of the highest value on the market. The fifth pick is our Fratello favorite that considers the current market price and collectability, potentially making it a sleeper reference. As such, the last pick could be described as our wild card. This week, we ll take a look at the Breitling Navitimer. We have selected what we believe are the best five ref...

Go anywhere, do anything (GADA) watches are an interesting concept, but what does go anywhere, do anything actually mean? Does a watch like this need to be able to handle pretty much anything, or can it simply be the watch that we choose to accompany us on lifes adventures? Perhaps its both and one more thing - a watch that gives us a sense of confidence that we really can go anywhere and do anything with it on our wrist. When I think of my GADA watch, it has to be my IWC Mark XV. It has come with me on some of my most fun - and sometimes scary - travels.An underground adventureThe clanky whir of gears moving the massive open-work steel lift on its slow journey into the depths of the earth d...

It is time to talk about summer watches! I am writing this from the home office, next to an open window that lets in a soft, warm breeze. The sun is out, and I have a tall glass of water with an oversized ice cube next to me. It feels like summer! More than any other season, summer always triggers a desire for very specific watches in me. Nacho set me the challenge of identifying three watches I would buy today if I were shopping for a new summer watch, so here we go!Now, what constitutes a great summer watch is probably highly personal. So in this article, I describe what I look for, and point at three watches I would happily strap on this summer.Summer watches - what are my criteria?It rea...