Enough is enough. To prove a point, first in a presentation and later that week in a discussion, a car was used when a watch was the subject of interest. This watch collection is like the Porsche 911; it evolves constantly, but always the original design shines through. And also this: I dont mind that this watch uses elements of the watches in another collection because all Porsches also have familiar design characteristics. Why reach outside the rich watch universe to prove your point? And also, why do watch brands keep incorporating miniaturized car details in timepieces? Car brands dont work the other way around. To put it bluntly: car analogies for watches have to stop, and so does the p...
Yes! Here s a challenge that s right up my alley! You see, in our last budget-related series, the rule was that we could only highlight one pre-owned watch. Man, what a bummer… I don t know about you, but as a diehard secondhand shopper, I rarely feel passionate about new watches between $3K and $5K these days. Unfortunately, the few that do set my heart ablaze got snapped up by colleagues in no time, so I stayed out of the game. This time, though, the only real requirement is staying within the $25,000 total budget. We can pick any number of pre-owned watches we want as long as we reference sales listings or average prices on Chrono24. With that in mind, I can certainly put together a...
Back in 2007, Longines introduced a re-edition of its famous Diver watch from 1959. The modern version had a Super Compressor-style case to look like its forebear and, at the beginning, featured a no-date dial. In 2008, however, Longines announced a date-equipped model and proceeded to phase out the no-date version over the following years. If you ask me (and many other enthusiasts), that was an unfortunate move, even if it was perhaps more commercially feasible. Thankfully, the no-date Longines Legend Diver is now making a comeback, this time in an incredibly nice 39mm version.Longines Legend Diver 2023Whereas the 2007 model was a 42mm watch, the new Longines Legend Diver has a modest 39mm ...
Kurono has released various watches this year, with the signature mid-century style seeping through in the details. This included Hajime Asaokas first GMT for his fledgling brand, a watch nominated for last weeks GPHG. Thats still a big thing for a small Japanese brand, and its not the first time. Now, with the annual stopwatch-featuring release, the new Kurono Tokyo Chronograph 3 Hisui brings a fresh new look.This year, two Kurono Tokyo releases are stuck in my memory. The first is the dark burgundy flavor of the Calendrier 1 Azuki, a watch of which I own the khaki-green version. The second was the brand s special quartet of 34mm watches with a distinct 50s flavor. The Calendrier has a des...
Welcome to another edition of Sunday Morning Showdown. In this week s battle, two affordable adventurer s watches go head to head for the win. One is the recently introduced Baltic Hermetique Tourer. It s another attractive addition to the French brand s successful collection. It s going up against the Christopher Ward C65 Dune Automatic, a member of the English brand s much-praised Dune line. Which of these two will come out on top? We will learn that in a classic France vs. England battle in this week s Sunday Morning Showdown.Baltic and Christopher Ward have made great names for themselves when it comes to offering attractive, affordable watches. Both brands are often praised for offering...
Ressence watches are already quite mesmerizing in and of themselves. When you see one for the first time, you spend a little while figuring out what time it is. And if you ve seen one before, you can simply enjoy the fact that it s so very different from all the other watches out there. But what do you do to make a Ressence watch even more interesting to look at? Well, you add an Arabic-inspired mosaic pattern to the unique dial and fill it with Super-LumiNova. At least that s what Beno?t Mintiens did for this limited-edition Type 1 DX3. The Ressence Type 1 Slim DX2 A collaborative trilogyThis is the third and final chapter in the collaboration between Ressence and Ahmed Seddiqi & S...
Welcome, Fratelli, to the fourth round of the 2023 Seiko World Cup. For this inaugural contest, the focus is on dive watches! Today, we see RJ and his Marinemaster SBDX001 go up against Nacho and his Prospex SRPC35K1 (aka the Mini Turtle). As with some of the previous rounds, this time, it s also a personal match as both RJ and Nacho own the watches they ll be defending. This is the last showdown in the group stage before moving on to the semifinals, which will kick off next week. So, without further ado, let s meet our contenders and get into the action. As always, remember to read through to the end and vote for your winner!In RJ s corner, we have the classic Seiko Marinemaster reference S...
The new Awake Summetria collection evokes feelings of symmetry and visual balance. With the watches guilloche dials and a lack of superfluous detailing, the result is a highly harmonious design. Four limited-production dial colors will be available, ensuring that all who like the design should find a pleasing hue.I recently had the opportunity to meet the founders of Awake at the WatchPro event in London. That also allowed me to go hands-on with the young brand s offerings for the first time. I was impressed by both the people and the watches. Awake s releases look minimalistic in photos, but in person, they re anything but simple. The attention to detail that goes into making a well-finish...
Another Friday, another Top 5! In last week s list, we looked at some of the most affordable sports watches currently out there. It sparked a lively and legitimate discussion about affordability but also showed that prices are lower than they have been in a long time. This week, we move on to a different brand. It s one that is connected to , though. After all, Zenith provided with its El Primero movement for the first-generation automatic Daytona. This week, we want to focus on Zenith s brilliant limited-edition releases. It s a Top 5 that shows the brand s unique ability to push the boundaries of design.Within the Fratello team, there is a lot of love for Zenith. The Le Locle-based brand...
Welcome to the realm of watch science fiction. This story could also bear the title 2023: A Watch Odyssey because it will wander into a space that exists only in the creator s imagination. The world described in this article is a nonexistent realm. Its a what-if world that eschews plausibility. But since we experience a watch world that is dominated by large luxury conglomerates, it is interesting to mentally explore what the watch industry would look like if it didnt have to turn a profit.Yes, you are right, the #1 luxury watch brand in the world doesnt have to turn a profit. - which is fully owned by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, a charitable organization established in 1945 - earned an e...
When the 38mm Tribute 1 debuted two years ago, it was different from what we usually expect from Armin Strom. The overall design resembled the brands DNA, yet it was something distinct. It was simpler, smaller, and had a charm about it that other AS models did not. It was the perfect Armin Strom dress watch, and now, with its new fume dials, the Tribute 1 is even more attractive.Now with 13 variations on the roster, the Tribute 1 is already the most extensive model line within the Armin Strom catalog. The latest are the four new Fume variants - Sky, Ocean, Burgundy, and Slate.Tribute 1 FumeThe Tribute 1 is Armin Stroms version of a dress watch. In other words, its the manufacturers unique ta...
School bells ringing, Fratelli! Welcome to GMT Watches 101. We keep talking about caller versus flyer GMT watches, and many people even habitually refer to true GMTs. We happily assume that everybody knows what we re talking about, but thats probably not the case. Sometimes we need to take a step back and cover the basics. So lets have a look at the different ways GMTs are executed.Let me potentially save some of you a little time before we start. If you know the difference between caller and flyer GMTs, you could skip this article. If youre not quite sure though, keep reading. Also, if you want to dive a little deeper into some technicalities, make sure to stick around!Cedric Bellon CB01 ca...
Today, we bring you news of the Brellum Pilot GMT LE.3 Chronometer. It s a chronograph in a popular color with an equally popular complication. As is the case with many of the brand s watches, this piece is limited to a very small number. Perhaps you ll decide to be one of the few owners after we take a closer look.Over the past several years, we ve covered several Brellum releases here on Fratello. No matter the reviewer, our team has come away impressed with the overall fit and finish of the brand s watches. The young company focuses on tool watches in bold colors with classic looks and always includes a COSC chronometer rating. Furthermore, Brellum focuses heavily on quality control and o...
I am not that excited to talk about electric technology in watches. Well, at least not today. Rather, I want to draw your attention to some dial designs with so much life and energy that few others can compare. I am fascinated by symbols, and you will hardly find a better symbol than the one you can see on some vintage electric watches.We ve all seen hundreds of examples of typical applied indexes. A single bar, double bars, sometimes combined with another short bar, even triangles… They are basic geometric shapes, decent and neutral. Indeed, they are generic, almost default. They do not attract too much attention, and they do not disturb. Designers gave them heights, widths, angles, g...
Back in 2021, when Aston Martin and Girard-Perregaux announced their partnership, many people expected them to work on a series of Laureato models. Surprisingly, though, the first watch that came out was the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges - Aston Martin Edition. But for those disappointed fans, the next three joint efforts were indeed the much-anticipated Laureatos. Now both brands return to a design with the iconic bridges for their fifth collaborative project. The newest effort is the Girard-Perregaux Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition.I am a big fan of Aston Martin. The British automaker has created some of the most beautiful sports cars in history. The DB5 is among t...
One of the things I enjoy the most about my watches is how they play with the light. A domed crystal, applied hour markers, and even a stepped dial can all bring about fascinating reflections and shadows. With the new ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser, Oris adds another dynamic element to this list. The watch s titanium laser-treated dial makes use of optical interference and, therefore, only reflects blue, green, and violet hues. It almost looks like a kind of unicorn dial.The all-titanium ProPilot X Calibre 400 was introduced about a year and a half ago. More wearable than the 44mm ProPilot X Calibre 115, this 39mm version first appeared with gray, blue, and salmon dial options. This year, for ...
Today, we have news from Chopard, and it couldn t be more different. The L.U.C Strike One is an innovative beauty that should delight admirers of serious watchmaking. The Alpine Eagle Summit Gemset models are sparkling variations of the popular dress-sport pieces. Both will be on display in Dubai, and we re happy to cover them.The L.U.C Strike One is a very different watch from the gem-set Alpine Eagle models we will preview today. I like to think of the disparity as a great showing of how Chopard brings a wide breadth of offerings to the market. Whether one is looking for high-end watchmaking, exquisite stonework, or both, the brand has your number. I m certainly more at home with the L.U.C...
The Seiko Marinemaster is something of a legend within the Japanese brands impressive back catalog. It represents the high end of Seiko dive watches and has, as a result, become a fan favorite. We have, however, been waiting for something new under the Marinermaster moniker for a while. Also, many of you were hoping for slightly smaller and thinner Seiko divers. Well, my dear Fratelli, consider yourself heard!This is the brand-new Seiko Marinemaster for 2023, and it comes in three colors. There is a 1,000-piece limited edition in silvery white, the SJE097. Additionally, there are two regular-production models, the black SJE101 and the blue SJE099.Seiko Marinemaster History 101Seiko has featu...
Yes, we all love the allure of sleek watches with integrated bracelets. Alas, grails like the Royal Oak and Nautilus are pipe dreams for most people, including me. Even without a big budget, you might want to see what the fuss is about. But is it possible to find integrated-bracelet chic for less than $500?Sure, there are affordable takes on the genre, but with many over $1,000, what are the real budget options? Here s a selection of what you can find for less than $500. Yes, theres plenty of wrist presence here, even without mentioning the lovely but nearly ubiquitous Tissot PRX. And who said all of these options had to be analog?Brew MetricThe small-cased goodness of the US-based coffee-in...
It is easy to become a bit jaded about new watch releases when you see them every day. A lumed ceramic bezel? A fume dial? It is only when they are executed exceptionally well that they truly get the heart racing after a while. But then, every so often, something comes along that doesnt play by the same rules - something that redefines what a watch can be. This, my dear Fratelli, is such a watch. This is the MB&F HM11 Architect.HM stands for Horological Machine. That would be a pretentious name for almost any watch-related creation, but it is fully justified for the mad inventions that Max Bsser and his friends build. Todays release is the eleventh Horological Machine, and its theme is ...
