Over the past few years, I ve gone on a journey of discovery with straps from Artem. With its name coming from the Latin phrase ars est celare artem (loosely translated, true art conceals the means by which it is achieved), the brand has steadily evolved and refined its products. From the initial black pin-buckle and two-piece sailcloth straps to Hybrid FKM and NATO options, Artem has a lot to offer. The standout strap selection is the Loop-Less? sailcloth, which has gone on to replace official OEM straps in my watch collection. Now available with an XS strap length (73/87mm) and widths ranging from 18mm to 21mm in five colors, the time has come to check out the Artem Loop-Less? collection.I...
If you were not yet convinced that micro/independent brands are innovative, perhaps you will be after reading this article. And it is the innovative nature of small/young/unknown brands that pushes me to write about them again and again. There are some gems out there that I would love for you to get acquainted with. Granted, what is strange and outside the box wont necessarily please everyone, at least aesthetically. But maybe we can agree that there is merit in treading outside of the beaten path. After all, if microbrands were not, then we wouldnt have such a vibrant independent watch market and a great variety of options.?And here at Fratello, we arent afraid of showing something we find ...
Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! This week, we have RJ and Thomas facing off. And this time, we have a battle of water-resistant chronographs with vintage vibes. In RJ s corner, we find the Tudor Black Bay Chrono, while Thomas is defending the Zodiac Sea-Chron. There s certainly no lack of wrist presence this week, Fratelli! These chronographs share vintage inspiration, a (reverse) panda layout, and water resistance to 200 meters. That, however, is where similarities end. So, which would you take on your next adventure?Have a look at the boys arguments, cast your vote, and share your motivations in the comments section below.But first, last week s resultsBefore we get into today ...
Artisans de Geneve is not the only company creating personal interpretations of grail watches from and Patek. Still, I feel that ADG deeply respects the clients base models while meticulously improving details. Adding interest and bespoke detailing to an already accomplished design is a delicate subject, but to me, Artisans de Geneve is on the podium with the best. And this time, there s big news in the form of the workshop s first personalized Audemars Piguet timepiece. Introducing the Cyano, a customized Royal Oak ref. 15500.Having honed their skills on Submariners, Daytonas, and the odd Aquanaut, these artisans from Geneva have now dealt with the venerable Royal Oak. I ve been to their ...
Over the last several years, the dangers of walking around with an expensive, known watch in a large city have received a lot of attention. In London, armed moped-riding gangs, machete-wielding assailants, and other criminals have all made news with dramatic footage of watch thefts. Well, now the tables are being turned by the long arm of the law as undercover London Met Police officers target these thieves.Watch thefts in London have certainly gained a lot of attention over the past few years. Scary footage of violent attacks and the injurious aftermaths are just some of the shocking photos we ve seen. Because of this, names like , Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe have become normal spea...
In 2022, Frederique Constant launched a special version of its Slimline Perpetual Calendar in collaboration with The Naked Watchmaker. Roughly 18 months later, this joint effort gets a new chapter with another version of the same watch. This time around, however, the new edition comes courtesy of Peter Speake. He is no longer part of The Naked Watchmaker initiative, but he did work together with Frederique Constant on this latest iteration of the brand s Slimline Perpetual Calendar. Let s find out more.When that special edition of the Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar came out in 2022, it was the first watch collaboration that Peter Speake and Daniela Marin worked on after star...
Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we decided to leave the affordable watches for a minute to focus on something else. This week s Top 5 is a look at the five best watches in Cartier s current catalog. The brand has a wide selection of classics that are widely loved by watch fans all over the globe. With a rather large regular collection of different models, the Prive collection, and the Fine Watchmaking collection, there is plenty to choose from. For this list, we selected five models from the regular collection that show the brilliance of Cartier watches perfectly.Diving into the world of Cartier is an immersive experience, but that doesn t necessarily make the brand easy to navigat...
In 2017, Singer Reimagined launched its first-ever wristwatch, the Track1 Chronograph. Singer Vehicle Design is a Los Angeles-based car tuning house specializing in restoring and upgrading the iconic Porsche 911 Carrera. Specifically, Singer focuses on the air-cooled Carreras (964 chassis for car nerds) phased out in the 90s. The Singer Reimagined Track1 Chronograph also draws from the past to revitalize the classic racing chronograph in a new dial layout. Since the watch s launch in 2017, Singer has expanded the concept into four distinct collections based on this pioneering design. Yet, I still favor the original Track1 Launch Edition - and now theres a chance to own the original prototype...
Although we ve covered the brand several times, Horage might not yet ring a clear bell for everyone. Let s change that today. The brand has existed since 2008 when it introduced its first Omnium model. Amid a global financial crisis and without guaranteed access to a future supply of movements, that wasn t the best timing. That s why, in 2009, Horage hibernated while promising to make a caliber of its own. After six years, Horage s K1 movement was ready to be revealed to the world. Together with the completion of a watch using the new K1 movement, the Horage brand was relaunched.In 2015, Horage s Jonas K1 model was launched through a successful crowdfunding campaign. One year later, the init...
In this installment of Exploring Evergreens, I have a closer look at my very own Panerai Radiomir. This is reference PAM00210, and I would argue that this is prime Panerai. Whether you agree or not, this is an archetypal Radiomir, the basic shape of which has been around since 1936. With hardly any aesthetic changes made since then, I think we can safely label this as an evergreen.The Panerai PAM00210 is what we would call a neo-vintage reference. It was produced from 2005 until 2012, and mine is an early one that dates back to the first year of production. Join me as I explore how this Panerai has aged over the last two decades and whether it is still an appealing proposition in 2024.True t...
Today, we ll take a look at the new Code41 Moon Inception. The latest model from the popular independent brand includes a moonphase display along with the option of a chronometer certification. As we ll see, the watch offers a very different take on the complication, and I think it succeeds in its execution.I ll kick this article off with a bit of a confession: moonphase complications and I aren t the closest of friends. Unlike many friends I know (and my wife, for that matter), the current status of the Moon is of no relevance to me. Then, when I think of how moonphase displays are integrated into most watch dials, I find them either fussy or old-fashioned. Why muck up a nice dial with cele...
Titoni never ceases to amaze me with its timepieces. I have reviewed several of the brand s models, and I am deeply impressed with the incredible quality Titoni offers every time, especially for the price. While my favorite model was always the Seascoper 300, I was more than interested in taking the new Seascoper 600 Retro for a spin. With its vintage-inspired looks, this new iteration of the brand s top-of-the-line diver has a distinctly different feel than most of the Seascoper 600 models we have seen recently. It s a look that suits the diver well - really well. Let me explain why.Over the past couple of years, Titoni has rapidly expanded the number of offerings in its Seascoper line of w...
I am so excited that I don t even know how to start. This particular version of the Gallet Multichron Clamshell was on my wishlist for years. When I think back on how it crossed my path, I find it so amusing, and I still can t believe it.A few weeks ago, I mentioned that my Gallet collection grew big time over the last few years. So I guess you will not be surprised to see a few more spectacular Gallet chronographs this year. To highlight the grandiose entrance into 2024, I chose a scarce Gallet Multichron Clamshell.The Gallet Multichron Clamshell familyTo demonstrate the real variety of Multichron Clamshell models, I used a snapshot from the old Gallet Facebook page. One of the former Galle...
For several years, Artem has made it its mission to provide high-quality alternatives to luxury brands OEM straps. Initially focusing on sailcloth straps seen by the brand s founders as an afterthought (and an expensive one at that), they decided to develop a more affordable alternative without compromising on quality. Since then, the brand s catalog has expanded to include nylon straps, deployant buckles in several styles, many new colors, and a hybrid sailcloth/rubber strap known as the Hydroflex. For now, a selection of the brand s products is already available in the Fratello Shop. We ll slowly expand to carry the entire range over the coming months.We are no strangers to Artem straps h...
Its the little things that matter. If you believe so, please take a closer look at the new Nomos Orion Neomatik New Black, which comes in three iterations. At first glance, these watches all look pretty much the same, but theyre not. There are three sizes, for instance, and Nomos also plays with different color combinations of hands and indices. Plus, one model comes with a date function. What nearly all watches from the German watchmaking town of Glashtte have in common, though, is a minimalist approach to design. And in the case of these three new Orion models, the deep (new) black dial is also a common denominator. By doing a hands-on with all three, I picked the one dark Orion that fits...
Theres almost no limit to the things you can celebrate. If you re a watch brand, you can celebrate the anniversary of your founding, for instance, or a particularly significant watch. What you can also celebrate is the birth year of a watch collection. With the new Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, Longines does just that. This release honors 70 years of Conquest watches. It does so with a remarkable watch with the date at 12 o clock and a power reserve indicator on a rotating disc in the center of the dial. There are three versions to choose from.For the 70th anniversary of the Conquest collection, Longines probably had to deal with the agony of choice when it came to reviving and re...
Welcome to this episode of Fratello Talks, in which Nacho, Lex, and Laurits try to answer the question: what makes a watch brand great? It s not as obvious as one might imagine. There are as many factors to consider as there are parts in a watch movement. However, a handful of specific criteria come into play in separating the few from the many, including heritage, storytelling, and, ultimately, the product itself. Make sure to tune in to this week s discussion for a nuanced dive into the topic as the guys share their opinions. Before we jump into it, though, here are the watches on their wrists this week.This video is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie sett...
Recently, Certina provided me the opportunity to get my hands on a revived classic, the DS Super PH1000M. I love Certina, and I believe it s a brand that does not get the kudos it deserves. This article is about the watch from which this new release took its design cues, and it has an incredible backstory.Last month, I brought you the story of Cabot Watch Companys (CWC) role in providing watches for journalists working on the front lines. Todays story is in a similar vein but looks at a Certina watch?issued to Australias elite Royal Australian Navy clearance diving teams during the height of the Vietnam War. This two-decade-long conflict left millions dead, though exact figures are hotly deb...
As a keen observer of the independent side of Japanese watchmaking, I felt honored when Precision Watch Co. reached out on behalf of Jiro Katayama. Katayama-san is a small-scale watchmaker I have been following for a few years. What I find fascinating is his self-taught watchmaking, a quality he shares with Hajime Asaoka that beggars belief.As only the second Western journalist to get all the details on the latest piece from Jiro Katayama and a chat with him, my story on the Otsuka Lotec No.7.5 inspired me. His watches are still only for sale in Japan, with plans for worldwide export within 2024C25. However, through a close friend, I managed to find one. In our insular watch world, many of u...
For most of us, having a budget to work with is a reality in this passion for watches. As a result, increasing prices are not without personal side effects. Until recently, the go-to brand under $4K was Tudor. With prices going up, however, that reality has shifted. It s safe to say that it could be your go-to brand under $5K nowadays. A fitting cliche is that you can only spend your money once, so you d better spend your money wisely. So what do you do? Do you accept that Tudor watches have become more expensive? Or do you shift focus and move on to something else? Let s look at Tudor prices for 2024 and the overall effect on the brand s perception.At the beginning of each year, many brands...
