We are still in the midst of the biggest small-sized revival of the decade, so surely all the bargains have already been snapped up? With patience, you ll find hidden gems from the late 90s to the end of the 00s. But with many of these having been big-watch years, finding small but tough neo-vintage dive watches should be nearly impossible, right?We re looking at the era of whopping Breitling Chronomats with rider tabs that could knock an enemy unconscious or 47mm Panerais overpowering the most muscular of wrists. But believe me, look closer, and youll find some pretty tough sports watches offering great value. And theyre all no bigger than 41mm - true story!Image: Mornington WatchesTAG He...

You know the Breitling Endurance Pro as a 44mm sports watch with a Breitlight case and a SuperQuartz movement inside. Now theres a new size in town. The 38mm version of the Endurance Pro is positioned as a universal watch, although two of the five colorways available are probably perceived as feminine. Anyway, the color will not affect the watchs performance. When we look at that, we need hard data, like the fact that the 44mm version weighs 64.5 grams. According to Breitling, the Endurance Pro 38 comes in at exactly 53 grams. So not only is it smaller and (marginally) more aerodynamic, but its also lighter and will save the athlete wearing the watch a couple of watts.Are you looking for the...

Singer Reimagined had quite a surprise in store for us with the introduction of the Divetrack chronograph. Its not a typical dive watch and even goes beyond the dive watches we already find unusual (okay, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms X Fathoms might be an exception to a certain extent). The Divetrack offers a dial that is all about diving. If you want to read the time, you ll have to look somewhere else.Singer Reimagined DivetrackAfter running Fratello for exactly 20 years this month, I must admit that its not always easy to feel excited about every watch release. Its not that we see that many bad watches, but there are often no real surprises anymore. A surprise doesnt have to be a big thing...

There is so much to say about Patek Philippe, arguably the most significant and venerable watchmaker in high-end Swiss watchmaking. The brand certainly displays a mastery of complications. Perhaps even more relevant to today s watch industry, Patek Philippe also expertly balances tradition with modernity. While the brand is famous for creating traditional, subdued, understated luxury, it has historically been at the vanguard of technical innovation. Patek Philippe invented and patented the stem-winding/keyless system (1845), the first perpetual calendar wristwatch (1889), the annual calendar watch (1996), the first quartz electronic clock with no moving parts (1952), and countless others. On...

At long last, Fratello On Air has decided to address a request from one of our faithful listeners. The topic of fonts on watches has come up as a suggested topic many times. Does it sound mundane? Perhaps, but that couldn t be further from the truth. Our watch content begins after 15 minutes. This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Fonts are a characteristic of most watches that we rarely consider. Nevertheless, they are a detail that if chosen or executed badly can ruin a watch. Today, we discuss the power of typefaces/fonts and why it matters. We praise the brands that spend time making fantastic design choices and throw a few...

A golden version of the Santos de Cartier is nothing new. Following Cartier s two-tone revamp of its previously long-dormant pilot s watch in 1978, several full-gold versions followed before the Santos collection s discontinuation in 2016. Then, when Cartier brought it back in 2018, it came in steel, two-tone, and full gold. There have also already been versions with a gold-colored dial, but I don t believe they ve ever had an all-gold case and bracelet. This version that we re looking at today debuted during the last edition of Watches and Wonders in Geneva.You probably already know I m a big fan of the Cartier Santos. My Santos Galbee XL is one of my favorite watches. In hindsight, I also ...

In the 1980s, IWC introduced a series of highly specialized dive watches for the Kampfschwimmer, an elite German military dive unit. Made in conjunction with Porsche Design, these titanium watches had IWC technology and ingenuity behind them. As military-issued versions of the IWC Ocean 2000, they are now referred to as the Ocean Bund among collectors and enthusiasts.The IWC Ocean Bund (short for Bundeswehr or German Federal Armed Forces)? came as six issued references, including one that consisted of 50 entirely nonmagnetic watches for mine-clearance units within the Kampfschwimmer.Credit: Bulang and SonsAn extreme IWC watch for an elite unit?Recently, I spoke to David Seyffer, IWC s histor...

Grand Seikos first all-mechanical complicated watch debuted in 2022. It was a timepiece with a movement featuring a tourbillon with an inner carriage rotating at eight beats per second and a constant-force mechanism rotating at one beat per second. Not only was the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 a complicated and ingenious watch, but it was also quite the groovy one. The constant-force mechanism together with the beat of the escapement created a unique and steady beat that was hard to resist. I couldnt sit still when I saw the watch during Watches and Wonders 2022. This year, Grand Seiko brought out a second version of the grooviest watch it ever created, the SLGT005, wit...

Back in early 2023, Longines brought back the famous Majetek pilots watch. This tribute to the 1935 Czechoslovak-military-issued wristwatch was the second and, to us, more successful reinterpretation after an earlier version in 2014. Today, however, Longines is back with another variation on the Majetek theme, this time in titanium. Let s take a quick first look to see whats what.This new version is limited to 1,935 pieces and priced at $5,350. This is a pretty hefty markup from the $4,150 non-limited steel version, so lets see if it lives up to its promise.Longines MajetekLet me kick things off with a condensed review of the Majetek s history. These watches were originally developed for the...

The Forstner 5-Row Beads of Rice bracelet is the brand s latest option for those who enjoy the look of a vintage accessory with modern quality. The choice to recreate this Gay Freres model from the 40s is intriguing as it s not the most famous. How does this bracelet blend with modern and vintage watches? Crucially, how does it feel on the wrist?Forstner does a fantastic job of offering high-quality vintage-style bracelets to the masses. The prices are reasonable, and the options are varied. I own several and enjoy using them on many of my watches. The Forstner 5-Row Beads of Rice is the latest release, and, like the rest of the brand s catalog, it s nicely constructed. It s a versatile bra...

Yema s latest release, the Skin Diver Slim CMM.20, celebrates the classic 60s skin diver aesthetic in style. As a modern-day remake of the original Yema Skin Diver from 1963, the watch takes us back to the early days of the French brand. With the addition of a proprietary micro-rotor movement, we get the best of Yema s vintage and modern sides. I had the opportunity to find out how the two sides of the brand match.Over the past few years, we have seen multiple re-editions of Yema s famous Skin Diver from 1963. In 2020, the brand released the Superman Heritage 63, the first of two models celebrating the style of the first Yema dive watch. The return of the Skin Diver turned out to be a huge ...

The Explorer, with its stainless steel Oyster case, glossy black dial, and mix of applied indexes and numerals, is one of the most iconic sports watches out there. Recently, Omega launched a new version of its Seamaster Aqua Terra, which, in terms of design, comes quite close to the iconic Explorer. It has a sporty stainless steel case, applied indexes, and now also comes with a glossy black lacquered dial. However, looking similar to an iconic watch is one thing; beating it in a new episode of our Sunday Morning Showdown is a whole different story.Daan, who owns a 2005 Explorer ref. 114270, will defend the Explorer. RJ will do the same in the other corner for the new Omega Seamaster Aqua ...

Cartier s resurgence is massive, with the brand riding a Kanagawa-sized wave of sales and praise. And yes, along with the Tank, we also love the JLC Reverso and its flippable charms. But what if your budget is a lot less or you simply don t love those watches looks? Trust us, for your wrist, there s a lot of alternative rectangular cool out there.Even if you don t want to spend more than $1,000, cool rectangular watches are still out there. Maybe you ve only worn circular wristwear and just want to dip your toes in the water. The choices I ve put together here are a sweet mix of Art Deco classicism and small brands along with a pre-owned wild card picked from my quirky taste spectrum.Hermes...

Whats the best way to test the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition to the fullest? You take it out for a spin - a long one from Bern to Zermatt, for instance. The Chasing Cancellara BernCZermatt cycling event is a 310km endurance race that also has its participants overcome 5,000 meters of climbing. Fabian Cancellara is the Swiss cycling legend who now owns Tudor Pro Cycling, and this event brought the worlds of cycling and watches together most spectacularly. I strapped on the carbon fiber cycling chrono and went for a ride that led my teammate and me through the Gantrisch natural park, over the passes Mittelberg and Col du Pillon into the lower part of Valais to reach Zermatt in the s...

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we re looking at some of the best watches featured in famous movies. But we ll stick to the affordable options rather than drumming up some more expensive ones. Maybe we will get to those in a different article. For now, let s focus on affordable watches with great stories of co-starring in some of Hollywood s great blockbusters.Before we get into our list of five watches, we have a little disclaimer about our picks. We picked one watch per brand because there are simply so many watches to choose from. Is the one Seiko we picked or the Hamilton we prefer also your favorite? Quite possibly, it is not. The selection you see here is a list of our favori...

Today s Brellum Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium Chronometer visited us at Fratello HQ, and we were left impressed by the brand s latest release. Brellum focuses on numbered, low-production editions with a high value-to-price ratio. This piece may be the most compelling yet.It s hard not to be cynical when looking at the prices of new watches. Our recurring series focused on the best watches under a certain price point constantly reminds me of this. Don t get me wrong; there are still tons of options for one s money, but many brands have pushed upward. There s also the trend toward smaller watches. That benefits me, but plenty of large-wristed folks like 42mm+ timepieces. Brellum is one smal...

Some watches are more emblematic of their manufacturers than others. The Royal Oak is certainly the brand hero for Audemars Piguet. The opening of calibers, however, is equally characteristic of the Maison from Le Brassus. So it is no exaggeration to say that an openworked Royal Oak is about as AP as it gets. The brand has recently added three new references to the lineup in steel, yellow gold, and black ceramic.Join me for a look at these three new additions to the Royal Oak Openworked collection.Audemars Piguets track record in openworked movementsWhile the Royal Oak is probably the first thing to spring to mind when thinking of Audemars Piguet, openworked movements may be a close second. ...

Breitling takes off in formation with three Avenger B01 Night Mission chronographs for elite forces in United States naval aviation. Specifically, the first two are for the test squadrons the Bloodhounds, stationed at Point Mugu, California, and the Dust Devils, based in China Lake, California. The third edition is for the US Naval Academy in a blue and gold color scheme matching the emblem at 9 o clock. The USNA is based in Annapolis, Maryland, and is America s flagship institution for naval training. Utilizing the newly refreshed Avenger B01 from November 2023, these new watches continue a tradition of Breitling military collaborations.Breitling has a long history of supplying military for...

Today, I want to talk about why I would opt for a modern-day Tudor Black Bay over a modern-day Submariner. The reasons are subjective and not based on specifications. I would also love to read your views in the comments section. Read on. and Tudor are part of the same family. However, since Tudor s renaissance a little over a decade ago, the brand has always been careful not to tread too closely to the modern iconic models. Tudor s Black Bay 36 skirted within an intermediate distance of the Oyster Perpetual line, but the dive-style dial layout and chunky snowflake hands kept the watch firmly demarcated from the more classical stick hands and flowing case design of the OP.Some likened the ...

Baltic, the uncrowned king of affordable vintage-inspired watches, has launched a new version of its dressy MR - the MR Roulette. It has the same dial layout as the previous version, which means the off-center sub-dial is still there. Of course, it s also still powered by a very elegant-looking micro-rotor movement on which the collection s name was based. This time, the most striking feature is the different textures on the dial that create a nice perception of depth. Let s take a look.The trend of vintage-inspired watches has been going on for quite a while now. A lot of the watches that pass through the Fratello office are based on something from the past. That s not necessarily a bad thi...