In this week s episode of Fratello On Air, we discuss how we go about servicing our watch collections. It s another listener suggestion, and it s a good one! You ll hear about how and when we choose to service a watch and where. Then, we end the episode with some suggestions about the tools we have on hand. For our listeners, the watch content starts after approximately eight minutes. This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Servicing a watch collection sounds daunting, but it doesn t have to be. Your friendly hosts have a decent number of pieces and haven t let maintenance get them down. Still, there are times when a watch needs...
Wait, am I writing about autumn already? Well, we are in the last week of August, so yes, it is quickly approaching (here in the Netherlands, at least). Well, at least we get to see some nice burgundy, orange, and brown watch releases. This year, Grand Seiko kicks things off with two autumn-themed new watches. Lets have a closer look at the new SBGY035 and SBGA499.These are both new, limited dial variants of existing Grand Seiko Elegance models. The C-shaped SBGY035 is limited to 700 pieces and priced at $9,200, while the SBGA499 is limited to 1,300 pieces and priced at $6,300. So, whats the occasion for these limited editions? How about 20 years of 9R Spring Drive calibers? Time flies when ...
I m going to be upfront. I was not a fan when I first saw pictures of the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB. The watch started as an exclusive for the Visa Cash App RB (VCARB) Formula 1 team and has now been made available to the public. People love to say that Tudor listened to the enthusiasts call to make it a general release, and who knows? Maybe the brand has. It s nice to speculate about that, but the fact is that it s here, and you can buy it. But is it worth buying? Let me explain where my initial aversion came from and how that changed by simply spending time with this new racing-inspired Black Bay Ceramic VCARB.There are two very simple reasons why I wasn t a fan of the Tudor Black Bay...
After talking to Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, the two co-founders of the watch brand Armin Strom, it became apparent that they do things differently at their manufacture in the Swiss watchmaking town of Biel/Bienne. Ask them anything, and the two childhood friends who started a watch brand inspired by the open-worked creations of famous watchmaker Mr. Armin Strom will give you an answer. How refreshing! And the open-minded spirit of Michel and Greisler trickles down because, on the work floor of the manufacture, the young, dynamic, highly skilled, and talented workforce displays the same attitude. Stick around to read about my experiences at the manufacture where Armin Strom builds watc...
The world of Haute Horlogerie is gearing up for yet another highly anticipated event as Geneva Watch Days 2024 draws near. Since its inception in 2020, this decentralized and innovative watch fair has rapidly become a cornerstone in the annual horological calendar. Designed with a flexible, open format, Geneva Watch Days allows independent and established watchmakers alike to showcase their latest creations in a unique setting that combines the grandeur of Geneva with an intimate, relaxed atmosphere.Unlike Watches and Wonders, its more formal cousin, GWD has a more relaxed, summery vibe. Think less stuffy booths and press conferences and, instead, more open-air displays and cocktail receptio...
I m not exaggerating when I say that the new Chronosport is one of the most anticipated releases from Nivada ever. The brand that knows how to create a re-edition did it again, and the watch community could not be happier about it. As always, we had the chance to go hands-on with the new Nivada Grenchen Chronosport, and I could not refuse. It took some time for the prototype to arrive, but it finally landed on my table. Here are my thoughts on it.You may have seen the new Nivada Grenchen Chronosport on Fratello s pages before. We reported on its initial release when the news first hit the community. However, writing an article based on a press release differs from having the watch on your wr...
Welcome to this Sunday Morning Showdown Summer Edition. Last week, we put two high-end golden travel timers up against each other. This week, two stainless steel divers from the more affordable side of the watch spectrum will battle it out. Both the Seiko SRPE05 King Turtle and the Certina DS Super PH1000M STC (short for Sea Turtle Conservancy) are based on earlier models. One has Turtle in its nickname because its case shape reminds people of the animal. The other supports a non-profit organization that fights the threat of sea turtles extinction.These watches also both have big, utilitarian, capable cases and come with long rubber straps that can be worn over a wetsuit. But that s more or...
Acrylic crystal, aging lume, gilt dial - these are the makings of a vintage dive watch. But the Typsim 200M isn t old. In fact, it s brand new and a welcome addition of true watch nostalgia in a fauxtina landscape that only pays visual lip service to the past. The 200M from Typsim is half a homage to the first dive watches, half a modern tool, and every bit as beautiful as it is capable. With an incredible attention to detail and microbrand endearment, what s not to love?Typsim (pronounced tip-sim) is an American microbrand from the Pacific Northwest. Even though I am a writer in this industry, some brands just slip under my radar until popping up unexpectedly. I came across Typsim and its f...
Lets face it: 2024 didnt come loaded with optimism from brands, so we werent expecting big changes. Watches and Wonders was filled with evolutionary timepieces and studied tweaks, and the most surprising releases of 2024 so far caught us napping. It might have taken less to surprise me this fairly quiet year, but Ive still been impressed, and more surprising releases keep appearing.I love a good wrist surprise, and there have been plenty for me to get enthusiastic about. Consider this story a part deux of my learned colleague Jorgs good read from June. So far, Ill happily give kudos to brands for sticking their necks out and making us notice. And Ive seen some bangers, including a guilloche ...
Another Friday, another list! Last week, we concluded our series of articles covering the best watches of the first half of 2024. Now it s time to move on to something different. This week, we ll look at our five favorite currently available Citizen watches. Over the past couple of years, this longstanding Japanese maker has shown that it has become the go-to brand for affordable timepieces. And the great thing is that the catalog s diversity is quite astonishing. It makes a list of just five picks way too short. But we went ahead and picked up the challenge anyway. Let s find out what our five picks are!It s almost overwhelming to browse through the extensive Citizen collection. With an eno...
Let me take you back to 2014. This is the year that Gangnam Style reaches two billion views on YouTube and Luis Suarez bites an opponent at the World Cup. Did I refresh your memory? You would be forgiven if the 2014 GPHG award winners occupied a less prominent place in your mind. Let me refresh your memory there too: the Urwerk EMC (Electronic Mechanical Control) was the big star of the show. It won two awards - one for innovation and another for mechanical exception. Today, for the 10th anniversary of that milestone, Urwerk introduces a new version. This is the EMC SR-71.The EMC SR-71 is a collaboration with Dreamland Aerospace. This lifestyle brand by Jason Saroyan and Dr. Roman Sperl aims...
Following the excellent British Watchmakers Day in March is the Best of British Watches event in Brighton on Saturday, the 7th of September, 2024. The bustling Brighton seafront s Old Ship Hotel will host the event in the spacious Paganini Room from 1:00 PM to 5:00 PM.This year is not short of exciting watch events in the UK. Many regions are covered, from the aforementioned British Watchmakers Day in London this past March to the upcoming Manchester Watch Show in the north. For the South Coast, there is the Best of British Watches event, which celebrates exquisite craftsmanship and timeless elegance in all price ranges. This showcase of British watchmaking covers many bases, from classic de...
This year marks the fourth time Omega will fulfill the role of official timekeeper for the America s Cup. The 37th edition of one of the world s most prestigious sailing races will take place in Barcelona, where six teams will compete to win and become the defender for the next edition. To celebrate Omega s important role during this event, in which every second counts, the brand is launching a special edition of its Seamaster Diver 300M. Compared to the previous America s Cup special editions, this year s is one of the least complicated. But it certainly features many interesting details that recall the oldest still-running international sporting competition.Right now, the six teams are com...
Minase is one of those special Japanese brands boasting outspoken designs and incredible craftsmanship. These things made me fall in love with the Minase s Divido series. From the moment I laid eyes on the Divido s remarkable design, I knew that Minase was doing something special. That feeling became even stronger when I had a chance to check out the watch up close and see for myself how the design and brilliant craftsmanship came together. In the summer of 2023, the brand added its newest model to the lineup. With the Uruga, Minase released another intriguing design. Will it be able to wow me as much as the Divido did? It s time to find out.When the Minase Uruga series debuted in July 2023,...
The older I get, the fonder I become of rectangular watches. Today, we have such a watch that got my attention last week. It s one of the most beautiful rectangular jump-hour watches from the 1930s I have ever seen. And maybe it s a bit surprising that it was made by Doxa.Until about 10 days ago, the Mido Direct Time was my preferred vintage rectangular jump-hour watch. It has been on my shopping list for quite some time. It slipped through my fingers twice as I was outbid in an auction both times. But after comparing the Mido Direct Time to my latest discovery, I m afraid I may have a new jump-hour hero. Meet the Doxa Jump Hour powered by caliber 2.Image: Hillman Vintage WatchesA mysterious...
Its no secret that the number of authorized multi-brand dealers for big watch companies has decreased significantly in the last decade. Only the large(r) chains, such as Wempe, Bucherer, Watches of Switzerland, and some local ones, seem to keep their portfolios secure with the big groups and brands.The traditional mom-and-pop jewelers are vanishing from the retail landscape. These small, often family-owned stores were the go-to places for generations of families when there was something to celebrate with jewelry or a watch. Brands, especially the bigger ones, concluded that these smaller stores can often not offer the luxurious atmosphere and surroundings that they feel they deserve. Consequ...
I live in a world where $10,000 isn t throwaway money. However, I was researching a list of my favorite watches under this magic threshold, and something dawned on me. The world has changed, and while I ve been living in it, I ve slept through the fact that many watches cost significantly more than this. At first, I was put off, but the challenge of finding interesting picks became fun.With my picks for the best watches under $10K, only one likely qualifies as semi-mainstream. I didn t meander from the beaten path on purpose. Instead, I tried to find value and distinctness. Don t worry, though, this isn t a list of oddball here today and gone tomorrow, brands. Whether any of these will inter...
Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks! If you re listening to this latest episode on the day of its release, then Geneva Watch Days 2024 is just a week away. Today, Nacho, Lex, and Thomas gather around the mics to discuss the event and make some wishes and predictions about what they d like to see from brands at the show. There s also plenty to look forward to since more brands than ever will take part in this year s edition of the event. Be sure to stay tuned here on Fratello for all the latest. For now, though, it s just some wishes, predictions, and wild guesses. But before we jump into those, let s slide into a wristcheck.This video is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies....
Today, we ll go hands-on with two lovely Glashtte Original references from the Senator Excellence series. The first is a stainless steel Perpetual Calendar, and the second is a red gold model with moonphase and date complications. Both share elegant designs and legible dials.Only two weeks ago, I had the opportunity to review the Glashtte Original PanoMaticCalendar. The design impressed me despite the amount of information displayed on the dial. It turns out that we had two more watches from the brand in our office. Both are new dial variants for watches that came out in 2023. They re Senator Excellence models that offer complications. Let s see if these watches impress as much as the Pano...
For the new Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition, the brand decided to release a black PVD version. At first, this might be surprising due to the Decompression Timer s colorful dial. If you think about it a little longer, though, it makes sense. The black overall aesthetic ensures that the dial truly pops. And not only does it make for a funky version of the watch, but it also offers great functionality. It s time to find out more about this 1,961-piece limited edition from Mido.To those familiar with vintage watches, Mido giving a 60s-inspired timepiece a black makeover may seem like a clash of styles. Admittedly, the combination of the classic looks of 1961 s Ocean Sta...
