At Watches and Wonders 2023, Cartier introduced the new Tank Americaine. It excited me because I had tried on an older Tank Americaine a few months before at a get-together. It was a gold version with a date and a guilloche dial, and it unexpectedly charmed me. I assumed the Tank Americaine would be too elegant and delicate for my wrist, but I liked it a lot because it s so different from many other watches on the market. Let s look at the updated large version in both steel and yellow gold and see whether I m still impressed.Together with the Tank Fran?aise from 1995, the Tank Americaine from 1989 is one of the youngest designs in the Cartier collection. Of course, it s heavily inspired by ...
This year marks the 65th anniversary of the first watch officially issued to NASA. This watch, a LeCoultre, was based on an existing model (Quartermaster) but customized at NASA s request. In this article submitted by space-watch buff (and author) Philip Corneille, you can read about this specially commissioned LeCoultre 24 Hours wristwatch. In the header image, you see Mercury astronauts Scott Carpenter, John Glenn, and Alan Shepard at Grand Bahama Island. Each is wearing a 24-hour LeCoultre astronaut watch. The picture was taken by NASA on May 7th, 1961.Deke Slayton in July 1961The Right StuffOn August 1st, 1958, the newly formed National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) cancele...
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss Japanese watches. That s a wide subject, so we attack it in different ways. Stick around to find out how we tackle one of our favorite watch genres. For our listeners, the watch content begins after approximately 17 minutes.This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Japanese watches rate highly in the minds of both hosts. Mike owns a large collection of pieces from the Land of the Rising Sun. Balazs has a tight collection of modern and vintage stalwarts. Still, we re going to discuss some highly recognizable pieces and some of our favorites. This isn t exhaustive....
Seiko is a brand that many consider the gateway drug to entry-level mechanical watches. It is also a rare example of a watchmaker that produces anything from affordable timepieces to expensive and high-end watches. The Seiko Turtle exemplifies the brand s ability to punch hard in the affordable segment.The Seiko SRPE93 (formerly known as the SRP777 and nicknamed the Turtle for its case shape), is one watch that exemplifies what I would call Seiko magic - a perfect mix of durability, quality, heritage, and relative affordability. These qualities extend throughout the catalog, to be sure, and more expensive models have them too. However, the Seiko Turtle is the ideal candidate when discussing ...
Since visiting Armin Strom at Geneva Watch Days 2024, I ve been keeping an eye out for the brand s newest releases. Today, the Tribute 2 Copper Edition makes its debut, and it s a gorgeous watch with a beautifully detailed dial and mainplate. Metiers d Art are a popular trend, and this watch perfectly infuses them.Handcrafted dials aren t new, but there certainly seems to be an uptick in offerings. From affordable brands to the usual suspects, guilloche and marquetry dials are making headlines. Now the Armin Strom Tribute 2 Copper Edition comes to market with another manual form of decorative finishing. Grattage is the method responsible for the beautiful coppery shimmer, and it s worth a cl...
Following the success of the Czapek Fratello Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green, we knew we wanted to continue working with one of the most exciting brands in Haute Horlogerie. Without further ado, we introduce you to the Czapek Fratello Promenade Transparencies Viridian Green, a watch that proudly celebrates its namesake color.Despite being relatively young in its rebirth as a brand, the Czapek name is steeped in rich history. Fran?ois Czapek was one of the greatest watchmakers of the 19th century. At the height of his renown, Czapek had boutiques in Geneva (Quai des Bergues), Warsaw (Faubourg de Cracovie), and Paris (Place Vend?me). You may recognize these locations as the nam...
During Watches and Wonders this year, the world learned about Angeluss marvelous monopusher chronograph, the Instrument de Vitesse. Now, I must admit, I got a sneak peek of the watch last year. That was the first time I could handle it, and it exceeded my expectations. At the time, one could choose between ebony- and ivory-dial versions (sadly, no pun intended). We only had to wait a few months before the Angelus La Fabrique collection received some Instrument de Vitesse updates. I went hands-on with the new Instrument de Vitesse Indianapolis Blue.I briefly introduced the Instrument de Vitesse in my first article about the model line. A few months later, I received the Indianapolis Blue befo...
Watches can be striking in different ways. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 and the Parmigiani Fleurier LArmoriale Repetition Mysterieuse are striking watches that sound the time on demand. The Bremont Terra Nova 38 Pink is a field watch that steps out of its comfort zone with an unexpected, striking pink dial.Youve seen the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362, right? Well, probably not in the metal because this ultra-complicated watch debuted a decade ago and combines a minute repeater with a flying tourbillon in an ultra-thin automatic movement that is also ultra-exclusive and rare. The original watch came with a grained silvery-white dial. Here, yo...
In a move that should delight customers, IWC now offers a customization program for the Portugieser Chronograph. Buyers can visit a participating IWC boutique and configure a bespoke model, which can be delivered in just three weeks. Plus, new dial colors are available as part of the program.It s nice to see a large brand like IWC offering customization on a popular model. The Portugieser Chronograph is a great-looking 41mm watch in standard form. IWC will let you craft your ideal combination of case material, dial, and strap for those looking for something special.IWC Portugieser CustomizationAt standalone IWC boutiques, customers can engage in a customization process to create a unique Por...
Blancpain has been hard at work filling out its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection. Earlier this year, we saw the introduction of two new ceramic Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantieme Complet models. Several months later, we were treated to the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantieme Complet Phases de Lune and Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback, both in 18K red gold. In what will most likely be the last expansion of the lineup this year, we see the introduction of a ceramic Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback in blue. Additionally, the brand releases two ceramic versions of the three-hand Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in green and blue. Let s find out how they complete the col...
Today, we ll look at the new Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage. This is a limited-edition watch celebrating the 16th anniversary of the brand s revival. As always with Moritz Grossmann, the focus is on finishing and mechanical prowess.For fans of Moritz Grossmann watches, the new Enamel Roman Vintage isn t a new model. It s a variant within an existing line, but it brings a beautiful new handmade enamel dial. Even though it s exclusive and severely expensive, we thought it was worth sharing.The Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage - celebrating 16 yearsThe Enamel Roman Vintage is a limited edition of just eight pieces. It celebrates 16 years since Moritz Grossmann s resurrection by CEO ...
Welcome back to our weekly Sunday Morning Showdown series. Every Sunday morning, two writers go head to head in a battle of the ages. Mike and Jorg will go at it this week with a pair of value-driven dive watches. Both are fairly recent releases from popular brands on the more affordable side of the watch universe. Jorg picked the divisive Seiko Prospex SPB483, while Mike chose to back the 40mm Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 that came out earlier this year. It s time for both men to go to battle while you enjoy their stories with a nice cup of coffee. In the end, you all will decide who wins!Both of today s watches came out this year. The Seiko Prospex SPB483 is part of a trio of new Pros...
To celebrate 140 years since its founding in 1884, Breitling has opened a pop-up museum in the heart of Zurich, Switzerland. It stands proudly inside a historically significant building on Zurichs Rennweg, just 200 meters from Breitlings flagship boutique. Remarkably, this newly opened museum is the only brand-specific museum in Switzerlands largest city. The museum spans three floors and comes equipped with a full-blown bistro and cafe/bar, multiple interactive activities, a time tunnel, and, of course, plenty of important watches spanning 140 years of heritage.Then and now: returning to Willy Breitlings three themesIn todays article, we will be focusing on three of this museums gems from B...
Circula was founded in 1955 by the grandfather of Cornelius Huber, the current owner. As a family business, the brand established itself in the German town of Pforzheim, a watchmaking hotspot that s home to brands such as Junghans, Laco, and Stowa. Today, the brand releases a new model with a new level of quality and finishing. This is the Circula Facet. Lets have a closer look!The new Circula Facet comes in silver, petrol, and brown. Note that we received a silver prototype with two-tone lume. The final production model in silver will feature green lume on the hands and indices, doing away with the blue you see on the hands here. Below, you will find a picture from the press pack to show wh...
Last week, a radio station invited me for an interview about a special Padellone 8171 offered at PAN Amsterdam, a popular art and antiques fair. The hosts asked me what made the watch so special and why it was on offer at the fair.Image: Amsterdam Watch Company Padellone ref. 8171PAN Amsterdam will run from November 24th to December 1st,?but the Padellone ref. 8171 has already been sold (it was listed for just less than $200,000). It was on offer through Amsterdam Watch Company, which has been an exhibitor at PAN Amsterdam for several years. I was asked if a watch belongs at the PAN fair, but since it is about art and antiques, I guess it makes sense. And since it was sold on the first day...
Another Friday, another list! After last week s list of GPHG winners, we return to the universe of vintage . Why? As we were browsing for entries for previous lists, we stumbled upon some amazing watches that you rarely see. This list, therefore, praises some of the Genevan brand s less highlighted watches from the past. But just because they re not as common doesn t make them less interesting. So let s check out these five brilliant watches that fly under the radar.Does such a thing as an under-the-radar even still exist? It s becoming a rare breed. However, it also depends on how deeply invested in the brand you are. If you re not, then this list will surprise you more than if you are a...
At the beginning of 2024, Tissot introduced four watches under the name PR516. They were all chronographs, three of which had quartz movements while the last one housed a hand-wound mechanical caliber. Just like the new time-and-date models we re looking at today, they were inspired by Tissot watches from the 60s. However, these new Powermatic 80 versions have a smaller 38mm diameter and feature a different bracelet. Let s take a closer look at the four variations of the new Tissot PR516 Powermatic 80. Tissot PR 516 (ca. 1965) - Image: Catawiki Tissot PR 516 Chronograph (ca. 1970) - Image: Oreficeria Lupetta In his article on the Tissot PR516 chronographs, Thomas already reviewed the ...
Brellum is back with another limited-edition watch, the Pandial Bicompax Black DLC Ti Chronometer. As we ll see, it has a familiar case shape with a new case color. Also, it s the second piece from the brand to use a chronometer-certified La Joux-Perret movement.Brellum focuses on small runs. Therefore, the releases come frequently. The latest model reminds us of a piece from this past summer. The Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium Chronometer also used a titanium case and a blue dial, but the execution was lighter in color overall. Today s focus is on a darker, sportier watch that wears its black coating well.The Brellum Pandial Bicompax Black DLC Ti ChronometerThe Pandial Bicompax Black DLC ...
It is no secret that I greatly appreciate Titoni s efforts to create great watches at affordable prices. The brand has surprised me multiple times with its creations. In particular, the Seascoper line is a big personal favorite. But Titoni has plenty more to offer with a varied collection of watches. Another important line is the Airmaster series. These watches are elegant and classically styled timepieces predominantly on bracelets. With the newest addition to the lineup, Titoni has created a true Airmaster that embodies the name perfectly. This classic pilot s watch might be the best Airmaster yet, and it has some surprising details in store.At first glance, the new Airmaster Pilot looks l...
The Sinn 717 debuted in 2021 and has won at least two major German design awards. It s a large and legible chronograph with looks inspired by the NaBo 17 cockpit clocks from the legendary Tornado jet fighter. We ll look at the 717 again and shed light on an interesting NaBo 17-related story that surfaced.My colleague Lex covered the Sinn 717 in late 2021 after its release and enjoyed its bold presence. The watch has remained as a catalog fixture since then and is impressive in the metal. There s no doubt that Sinn makes a well-built watch with a strong focus on functionality. The 717 defines this mantra with its cockpit-clock looks and impressive features. We ll revisit these, but let s ment...
