Over the last couple of weeks, you ve seen some of the guys pick favorites among some of the best vintage watches on the market for less than $5,000. I set them out to complete this task, so it only seems fair that I join in. Today, I ve scratched the surface of the vast selection of excellent vintage watches available at this price point and selected three. Seeing how different people s picks have been so far has been very interesting. There has even been some overlap on some of the more classic ones. Going into it, though, I m confident there won t be any repeats here.As I said, now it s time for me to give it a go. It was a challenge to settle for three picks under $5K since most of my in...
In total, Swatch has introduced 30 MoonSwatch models since 2022. First, there were the original 11 MoonSwatch variants, and then, a year later, we saw 11 others with a Moonshine Gold-plated hand. In 2024, we got two MoonSwatch Snoopy models, three new MoonSwatch Mission on Earth variants, a Mission to the Super Blue Moonphase, and a Mission to Earthphase. Now Swatch brings us the first edition of this year, the MoonSwatch 1965.MoonSwatch FOMOSome of us in the watch media received a private showing one week before the first 11 MoonSwatch models debuted. When I asked Nick Hayek (CEO of Swatch Group) about further plans for the MoonSwatch, he told me Swatch had not developed the concept just fo...
When Biver launched to great fanfare in 2023, the debut watch displayed watchmaking maximalism at its finest. Father and son Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver must have asked themselves, What if we turn everything up to eleven? The young brands second model, the Automatique, dialed things down somewhat. Still, it looked distinctly intricate and truly Biver-esque. Todays new Biver Automatique Japan Edition takes a different approach. Watchmaking maximalism meets aesthetic minimalism.I usually refrain from sharing my opinions until the end of an introduction article, but allow me to make an exception. This formula works for me - these are my favorite Biver watches yet! Lets have a closer look!The B...
Honest question: why do people like the Sky-Dweller? Is it because the travel watch with the Saros annual calendar and Ring Command is a complicated piece of watchmaking? Is it the characteristic dial layout, perhaps? Or is it because if you wear this 42mm watch in precious metal, everybody within a hundred-meter radius will know youre sporting a costly ? I never felt the need to board the most complicated watch in s current collection, but this Monday, Im trying to get airborne with the Sky-Dweller in yellow and Everose gold.The Sky-Dweller first took off in 2012, and it still feels like this watch is a new kid on the block. You get that when surrounded by Subs, GMT-Master IIs, and Dayton...
What would happen if you started working out in 1969? How would you look today? Well, if you were a watch, you would probably look like the 42mm Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. When the athletic Defy A3642 came to life 56 years ago, the watch, with its muscular octagonal case and chiseled tetradecagonal (14-sided) bezel, already looked like it could go the distance. But the first Defy model also had room to grow. Many years of training/evolution have led to a more complicated and bigger yet leaner and meaner version - an open-worked chronograph.You must keep things in perspective, especially when discussing watches like the Zenith Defy. We live in the age of the integrated-bracelet...
Our managing editor, Nacho, asked us to choose our favorite vintage watches under $5K. First, we need to define what vintage means. There is no clear universal definition in the watch industry, but the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie once used 20 years or older as a guideline. To some purists, a vintage needs to be from at least before 1980, and I am sure some would even take it further back.1980s and 1990s - vintage or neo-vintage? It s an ongoing debate.Vintage watches under $5KThat said, its a moving target. Of course, as time progresses, the lower limit of what is considered vintage also moves along. Some of my colleagues included post-2000 watches, sometimes called neo-vintage, but I t...
It s no secret that I have a huge soft spot for Christopher Ward s C65 Dune series. I own the first-generation C65 Dune GMT, and the C65 Dune Automatic models are easily among the best affordable daily wearers. It came as a bit of a surprise that the brand decided to update the Dune lineup with new dials only two years after its debut. But after seeing the new C65 Dune Aeolian versions, I was happy to find out more about the updated models with their new textured dials. The new C65 Dune GMT does not feature that same dial texture, but it does bring a new dial color to the GMT versions. That s more than enough reason to find out more!As I explained in the introduction article for these watche...
And before you know it, it is Sunday again! Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. We hope you are comfortable, with a cup of coffee in hand and a croissant nearby. Depending on where you are, maybe you are even greeted by a soft spring sunshine. Well, say goodbye to your peaceful morning because we have another horological bare-knuckle fistfight for you. Today, we pit the brand-new King Seiko Vanac against the Toledano & Chan B/1. Things are about to get brutal(ist)!These are two watches taking a design-first approach, so it made no sense to pit anybody but our two design buffs against each other. Jorg will defend the Toledano & Chan?B/1, while Thomas will make a case for the K...
The Citizen Tsuyosa lineup has always impressed us as an absolute sweet spot in the market. I struggle to think of any watch offering more for the price. The Tsuyosa collection, then, can make you think twice about anything fancier. So what if you want all of that but in a more classical, elegant size? If that sounds like you, you will like what Citizen shows us today - the Citizen Tsuyosa 37mm!The new size comes in three cool colors, some new and some familiar. You can have your pick of ice blue, pastel pink, or dark green. I got a chance to try them all, and heres how we got along.The new Citizen Tsuyosa 37mms lineageThe new Citizen Tsuyosa 37mm models will look familiar to most. Both styl...
When Ollech & Wajs released the C-1000 A, I knew I had to spend some time with it. This watch is an interesting one that pays homage to the brand s groundbreaking Caribbean 1000 from 1964.Ollech & Wajs is a brand that does not enter the mainstream conversation much, which is a shame because there s much to appreciate. The company has a good history of producing tool watches that were often loved by soldiers and adventurers the world over. The brand was founded in 1956 by Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs. It s crazy to think that just eight years later, in 1964, Ollech & Wajs would go on to introduce the Caribbean 1000. This was a watch that had a certified depth rating of 1,000 mete...
At the end of 2023, Michiel Holthinrichs showed me the first sketches of his new Ornament watches at his atelier in the center of Delft, here in the Netherlands. In May 2024, he finally felt confident enough to officially announce the watches. I hadn t seen them in real life yet, though, so I was very excited to visit the Holthinrichs team again recently and get a good look at the all-new Ornament models. Lex already went over the entry-level Signature Ornament watches with the multi-level dials and the CNC-machined swooping lugs. Today, I ll mainly focus on the 3D-printed Signature Lab Series and the impressive Ornament Nouveau.However, I ll start with a watch that s very similar to the Sig...
Another Friday, another list! This week, we re highlighting the best pre-Daytona chronographs. While most watch fans know of such models existence, it s not something we focus on often. This is for obvious reasons. The legacy of the Daytona has become one of the industry s greatest success stories, so that is where the focus is. Plus, the Daytona is still in the brand s collection, which makes it relevant to talk about. But that doesn t mean the vintage chronographs aren t. That s why we wanted to highlight five classic chronographs from the pre-Daytona era this week.If you follow our Top 5 lists every week, you know I ve gone down the rabbit hole lately. This year, I hope to buy a vint...
Are you attending the 2025 British Watchmakers Day in London tomorrow? If so, I guess you already have your ticket ready because the ones for club members and the general public are all sold out. I considered attending the event this year, and that was mainly because of the Gimlet, a very attractive special-edition watch that Studio Underd0g and Fears presented. Like most of the other special editions, it will only be available at the event. Unfortunately, I was too late to buy a ticket, so I m missing out. Some of the special editions will be available for sale after the event, but thats only if any pieces are left, of course.This year, close to 45 British-based watch brands are presenting...
I need gold. My watch collection lacks precious metal, so with that in mind, I started looking for gold watches on a budget of $5K. Please enjoy my gold choices from Audemars Piguet, IWC, and Minerva. And yes, my colleagues told me I cheated by choosing the steel-cased Minerva, but I responded that the gold details on that chronograph with a GMT function were simply irresistible.Going for gold on a budget - yes, it is possible. I looked for small, snazzy, dressy gold watches to spice up my modest collection. And guess what: I was spoiled for choice!Image: Bulang & SonsThe best vintage watches under $5K - Audemars Piguet Ultra-ThinIts tiny, but this Audemars Piguet Ultra-Thin with its 33m...
Ask a random watch enthusiast about the great diving watches in history, and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms will be on the tip of many tongues. In 2023, Blancpain celebrated the 70th anniversary of its legendary Fifty Fathoms in three acts. With a trio of completely different releases, the brand gave us a good idea of the variety of the Fifty Fathoms. The one that left the biggest impression on me was the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 2 Tech Gombessa. As a follow-up to that release, Blancpain is launching the Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV. It s a toned-down version of the Tech Gombessa for both underwater diving and everyday wear. This 100-piece Blancpain Ocean Commitment (BOC) limited edition...
Seiko regularly surprises us with new limited editions. Typically, they are variations of existing models that introduce new dials and eye-catching colors. But sometimes, a limited series is more than that. With the introduction of today s new trio of watches, Seiko treats us to a few firsts that fans will certainly love. The most important news is the release of the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081. It s a new high-end titanium Marinemaster model based on the brand s 1968 Diver. On top of that, we get the new SPB511, a variation of the popular modern take on the 62MAS, as well as the SPB509, another version of the Prospex GMT diver. Let s find out more!Before we get into the specifics of e...
The Vanac name may not ring a bell for anyone but the most hardcore King Seiko enthusiasts, but that did not stop Seiko from reissuing the watch in a new guise. Today, we see the introduction of the King Seiko Vanac SLA087 in purple/gold and the SLA083 in white/gold. As you can see from the pictures, we got to try these two new models. Seiko is also releasing dials in blue, brown/gold (a limited edition of 700 pieces), and light blue. If you like 1970s design and seriously nice finishing, read on!King Seiko VanacThe King Seiko Vanac line dates back to the 1970s - more precisely, between 1972 and 1974. Interestingly, nobody seems to know where the name comes from or what it means. Seiko often...
If only watches could tell stories… This particular watch, a GMT-Master 1675 from 1968, would have a multitude of stories to share.The GMT-Master ref. 1675 we re looking at today belonged to the late New Zealand photojournalist and camera operator Derek McKendry, who spent eight years covering the Vietnam War for the Australian Broadcasting Corporation (ABC). McKendry also covered conflicts across the Middle East, India, South East Asia, and Africa.Derek McKendry behind the video camera - Image: Webb sThe life of a roving journalist?During those assignments, McKendry was seriously wounded by mortar fire, almost buried alive in a bombed-out bunker, thrown in prison, and shot at. Lucki...
Have you ever wanted to buy a vintage watch but been put off by potential pitfalls? Well, this episode of Fratello Talks is the one for you. Today, Nacho, RJ, and Thomas share their advice on buying vintage watches. They ve been doing it themselves for years. In Thomas s case, there s even a history of working as a dealer for Amsterdam Watch Co. On today s show, they combine their expertise and distill some advice that everyone taking their first steps toward vintage timepieces should hear. So be sure to tune in whether you re teetering on the edge of your first vintage purchase or a connoisseur in the field. And if you re one of the latter, we d love for you to chime in with your words of a...
As a materials engineer, I get excited whenever a watchmaker uses an atypical material. Over the last decade, carbon and ceramics have become more prevalent for watch cases. However, aside from new gold alloys, it has been relatively quiet on the metals front. Using tantalum isn t new, but it s so uncommon that it deserves attention whenever a watch brand chooses it. When one of my all-time favorite brands decides to work with the notoriously challenging metal, I m more than interested. Project 21 is Ming s latest creation, and despite its exclusivity, it can lay claim to the title of my favorite watch of 2025 thus far.I m an unabashed Ming fanboy. This small independent brand rarely release...
