Another Friday, another list! This week, we compiled a list of our favorite vintage Submariner models. While classic es are always a topic of discussion, recently Submariners and GMT-Masters have been discussed quite a bit in the Fratello offices. It is no coincidence because Robert-Jan recently added a vintage GMT-Master to his collection, and Balazs treated himself to a vintage Submariner. The magnetic pull of classic models is undeniable, so we decided to create this list of our five favorite vintage Subs.Before entering our favorites list, explain how we approached this week s list. It is a combination of shared favorite references that are also somewhat affordable. As we all know, you...
Last week, Jorg explained how the Alpine Eagle has carved out its spot in an overcrowded category. The brand s persistence and creativity in drastically changing things made the collection a success story. Today, it s my turn to look at Chopard s new Quattro Mark IV models from its elegant L.U.C collection. The Quattro is famous for its impressive power reserve, resulting from its four-barrel infrastructure. Of course, those four barrels are still there. However, the power reserve indicator moved to the back of the watch.Sure, a 216-hour, or 9-day power reserve is impressive, and I get that it s something you d like to show off. But a power reserve indicator on the dial isn t always the most...
Sternglas has made a name for itself as a brand offering affordable Bauhaus-inspired timepieces. Within that specific style, the brand has explored many options to add variation to its new releases. In those explorations, the Hamburg-based brand has pushed the boundaries without losing the connection to its core philosophy. But we have seen recent releases like the Tachymeter 2.0. Merion and the Hamburg Chrono play with the Bauhaus theme successfully. For the new Naos Big Date, Sternglas returns to its roots but adds a twist that feels familiar in the style yet new for the brand. Let s find out more.I have always been fascinated by minimalist design styles like Bauhaus. I love the basic desi...
Hanhart is a German brand with a deep history of making pilots chronographs. These pieces are known for their distinctive ridged rotating outer bezels and single red chronograph pusher. However, not all Hanhart models feature the latter detail, which brings us to today s piece. Fans requested the distinctive pusher, and Hanhart has answered with the new 417 ES Heritage Flyback.Classic details are key when speaking about classic brands. Hanhart does this well with the 417 ES and 415 ES lines. However, in the eyes of collectors, key characteristics related to the aesthetics and movement were missing. The new 417 ES Heritage addresses these requests head-on without any deviations. Oh, and did ...
Regarding watchmaking, Louis Vuitton is best known for its Tambour models. These integrated bracelet models were reinvented in 2023 and capitalized on the 2011 purchase of La Fabrique du Temps. While some hardcore watch fans have taken time to accept the brand as a watchmaker, it s becoming harder to ignore the products. Now, Louis Vuitton is going all-in with a trio of mesmerizing high watchmaking novelties.Admittedly, I was skeptical when Louis Vuitton announced its intention to compete at the highest levels of watchmaking. The brand is famous for its bags, luggage, and fashion accessories. So, would the watches rank as serious timepieces or as fashion afterthoughts? The Tambour and Escale...
Today, we ll briefly examine two new Certina DS-1 Big Date Collection variants. While we ve typically covered some of Certina s sportier watches here on Fratello, it s important to remember that models like the DS-1 form the foundation for a brand. Watch nerds aside, pieces like this sell in large numbers.The DS-1 Big Date was introduced in 2019 for the 60th anniversary of Certina s DS, or Double Security System. The innovation was unique in 1959 and mounted the movement on a shock absorber-like system. In addition to shock absorption, DS provided security from water and temperature changes. It was used across all types of Certina watches, not only hardcore tool pieces. Today s DS-1 models f...
Citizen has updated one of its most popular Promaster Eco-Drive diver models. The BN0150-10E becomes BN1024-01E and has been updated in almost all areas-it s bigger, goes deeper, is stronger, lasts longer, and is now suitable for professional use. Let s dive into the details!For over 35 years, Promaster has stood for functionality and professional use. Citizen s latest Promaster model is the BN1024-01E, Eco-Drive Professional Diver 300 meters. Equipped with Citizen s light-powered in-house quartz caliber E365. Fully charged, this caliber has a power reserve of 365 days. The new Eco-Drive Promaster returns to many design elements of its ancestor, the BN0150-10E. There are also a few additiona...
Manufacturers of ebauche watch movements have a major impact on the watch industry. They might not be the sexiest of companies, but their decisions directly determine what new watches we can expect to see from brands. When Miyota recently announced a flyer GMT caliber (Caliber 9075), we soon saw a flurry of new affordable flyer GMT watches. This got us wondering what new calibers we would like to see in the near future. I hope you are reading along, Sellita, Miyota, La Joux-Perret, Soprod, and friends!As the owner of a watch microbrand, this question pops into my mind probably once a week. I keep a close eye on new caliber developments, as they directly determine what watches I can make. The...
When Doxa dropped the new Sub 250T GMT a month ago, it was met with near-universal praise. Nine different dial options debuted, including the most famous Doxa colorways. We saw all of them in Geneva and had the opportunity to spend time with them at Fratello HQ. Today, I ll review these pieces and address the GMT hand.When my colleague Thomas reported on the initial release of the Sub 250T GMT, he mentioned that Doxa hadn t offered a Sub GMT since 2006! Considering the popularity of this complication, it s a surprise. By now, we know that Doxa has rectified this, but is this the watch everyone has waited for? In most ways, the answer is yes, especially considering the price. Let s investigat...
Writing and talking about watches is a lot of fun, but there are times when it s a chore. Penning today s article exemplifies the kind of work I enjoy. You see, Parmigiani is one of my favorite brands, hands down, and I m always up for covering a new release. Today, I ll go several steps better than that because we re covering the brand s full slate of releases from Watches and Wonders 2025.In late 2023, soon after moving to London, I had the opportunity to attend a Parmigiani Fleurier event. I had seen and read about the brand s watches but had never tried one on or seen one in the flesh. Obviously, that changed, and with it, so did my most-wanted list.What makes Parmigiani so good?With so ...
Seiko is marking 60 years of diver s watches with a new take on its successful GMT line, the Seiko SPB519. Today, Seiko has released a new Heritage Diver s GMT watch in the Prospex collection. The brand has been on a powerful streak of late with their Prospex line, including improving the calibers on offer.The Seiko GMT 60th anniversary edition This new 1968 Heritage Divers GMT watch is powered by the Caliber 6R54. That caliber features a GMT function and a 72-hour power reserve. Seiko makes this statistic very clear by stating 3 days on the dial, a recent development I am not a fan of, as it feels like one bit of text too many. Seiko states that the caliber s accuracy sits within +25 to -15...
Longines has produced a massive variety of designs over its illustrious history. Today, we re looking at a vintage watch from the brand that reflects the bold designs of the 1970s.One of the standout features of this year s Watches and Wonders was the fact that many companies sought to offer bold, stand-out designs. Yes, there was a clear trend of refinement on existing model lines (I m looking at you, Tudor), but brands also committed to pushing the envelope on aesthetics.A palette cleanser in an era of 1950s-esque designsHowever, one need only look at the 1970s as a decade of watch design to see, perhaps, the greatest examples of existing designs being thrown out the window in favor of new...
In true Watches and Wonders tradition, Patek Philippe graced us with a string of new introductions. The Genevan brand unveiled 14 new wrist watches and a unique desk clock this year. Among them, there are always standouts. The big release for this year was not a highly complicated timepiece or a new addition to the Nautilus or Aquanaut line-up. Even the new, smaller Cubitus models weren t the real talk of the town for Patek. It was all about the brilliant new Calatrava 6196P. But in the shadow of that watch, Patek Philippe released another Calatrava. The new Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G in white gold is the third model in a specific series of Calatrava models that was first introduced three ye...
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we cover the latest news on watches and other subjects. We discuss the 250th Anniversary of Breguet and several other high-end brands.This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings It was a relatively quiet week on the watch front, but there were still releases and news. Breguet released its first anniversary model, and it s worth some words. This leads to our thoughts on other higher-end brands. Also, we discuss , but not in the way you d expect. HandgelenkskontrolleWe kick off the episode with a discussion about a vintage mesh JB Champion bracelet Mike purchased on eBay. ...
Leave it to brands to find excuses to launch celebratory limited editions. Most of the time, the celebrated milestones feel contrived at best. Not so with Vacheron Constantin. After all, if you have been in the business-continuously, I might add-for 270 years, you truly have something to celebrate. The brand has embraced the festive mood, so we get a host of special editions this year, one of which you see here today. This is the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar.This one is for the lucky few, as only 127 units will be produced, price on request. Still, that doesnt stop us from enjoying it. I got a chance to go hands-on, and here is how we got along.The Vacheron...
Montblanc began making watches in 1997, but in reality, the brand s watchmaking history runs a lot deeper. In 2007, the noted penmaker purchased Minerva, a revered Swiss manufacture founded in 1857. Since then, complicated pieces have carried the famous name on the movement and, at times, on the dial. Today s 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited Edition watches feature an impressive new Minerva annual calendar movement.Since 2007, we ve observed Montblanc embrace the abilities of the original Minerva manufacture. The results are the more complicated and limited pieces. At Watches and Wonders 2025, the brand showed off two new watches with the Minerva name on the movement and, interestingly...
Featherlight and wafer-thin can still be too much, as evidenced by the famous scene from the 1983 Monty Python movie The Meaning of Life in which Mr. Creosote explodes after eating a wafer-thin after-dinner mint. One thing did indeed explode when I first looked at the ultra-purple Behrens Ultra-Light 11G - my mind. How can something so odd look and feel so good? And is this thin, light, and colorful watch too much?Until now, the Behrens Ultra-Light 11G has existed in black, white, and red. There was also a green iteration,? The Timeless Bamboo Juice Community Channel special-edition watch, a run of 48 bamboo-inspired watches. Purple is the latest colorway, and it s a limited edition exclusiv...
When you buy a high-end mechanical watch, you may expect a few things - a fine guilloche dial, for example, and/or a smoothly sweeping seconds hand. British watchmaker Garrick sure knows how to deliver both of those. However, you get neither of them with the new S3 Deadbeat Seconds. What you do get, though, is a beautifully finished open-worked dial and a seconds hand that plays tricks on you. We ve seen both those things from Garrick before, but now they come together in the same watch. Garrick s S3 Deadbeat Seconds is a logical step after the successful GPHG finalist S3 Mk2 and the S2 Deadbeat. The former came with a magnificently open-worked dial, and the latter featured that quirky con...
Independent watchmaking has a knack for unearthing hidden gems in the most unexpected places. In this case, that place is Ninghai, China, home to master watchmaker Qian GuoBiao. His latest creation, Facing the Sky 2.0, marks the return of a concept he first unveiled back in 2018. The original Facing the Sky, a bold 43mm piece nicknamed the Flying Balance Wheel, encapsulated Qians fascination with perspective. It drew inspiration from a birds-eye view of his citys skyline, translating urban order and chaos into mechanical form. Now, the 2.0 revisits that vision in a refined 39mm execution, bringing the once one-of-a-kind idea to a select group of collectors.With the 2.0, Qian GuoBiao has dist...
It s Sunday again, and for our showdown this week, we set up a clash between two polarizing watches that inspire no shortage of fervid opinions. First, there is the brand-new Land-Dweller that the brand unveiled during Watches and Wonders a few weeks back. It goes up against the much-debated Patek Philippe Cubitus, which debuted in its 45mm form last fall. However, Patek added a 40mm size to the lineup during Watches and Wonders. Today, Mike will back the 40mm version in white gold (ref. 7128/1G) and go up against Jorg and the 40mm Land-Dweller in platinum (ref. 127336). Ultimately, you get to decide which watch will emerge victorious.This week s matchup is remarkable. You probably all kno...
