Why I Bought A Five-Digit GMT-Master II (Again)

April 21, 2017

It must have been 1999 or 2000 when the GMT-Master II ref. 16710 was incredibly high on my wishlist. I even had the official advertisement for this model as the wallpaper on my Windows desktop. But I was a student, and the GMT-Master II was out of reach. GMT-Master II 16713The GMT-Master IIThe GMT-Master has been one of my favorites since I developed an interest in mechanical watches. The history of the watch certainly plays a role, but I also deeply admire the design of this iconic pilots watch. With the introduction of the reference 16760 (Fat Lady), added the independent hour hand, making it an even more convenient travel companion. In 1989, the GMT-Master II ref. 16710 succeeded the Fat Lady and remained in production for a long time. This also plays a part; in the mid-1990s, my interest in watches was ignited, and this was the model available during those years (until 2006/2007).GMT-Master ref. 1675Going for a 1675I aspired to own it, so I kept all those GMT-Master II advertisements from magazines safe. A few years later, in 2004, after graduating and starting my first job, I settled for a GMT-Master 1675 from 1971. I paid $1,800 for it, including the box and paperwork. The GMT-Master was less popular than the Submariner back then (this trend lasted for a long time) and was available at attractive prices.A GMT-Master II 16710 advertisement from ca. 2000However, I quickly realized that the vintage GMT-Master 1675 was not for me (I tried it again a decade later, only to come to the same conclusion). It was more dangly than I had expected and, compared to my Sea-Dweller 16600 (which I also bought in 2004), it felt a bit more fragile.Gerard s 16710Buying a brand-new GMT-Master II 16710I also longed for the independent hour hand, which would make it a true GMT rather than simply having an additional 24-hour hand. In my opinion, the 16710 was the one to have. I sold the GMT-Master 1675, but it took some time before I bought a 16710. In 2006, I purchased a brand-new GMT-Master II ref. 16710 in the classic Coke configuration. I also made sure to have the other bezel inserts (Pepsi and full black) to swap out occasionally. If I remember correctly, I paid approximately $3,400 for the GMT-Master II, which meant there was a slight discount on the retail price of approximately $4,000.This GMT-Master II was more modern than the 1675. At that time, I traveled frequently to various time zones for work and vacation. The GMT-Master II, no matter the bezel configuration, was exceptionally useful. This was before the iPhone came out (or at least before I got my first one), so using a GMT watch was the fastest way.I sold my GMT-Master II 16710 in 2010 because I was obsessed with getting an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26300ST to pair with my Royal Oak Jumbo 15202ST. Alas, everyone makes mistakes.Weirdly enough, I have rebought models that I initially sold. I bought a Sea-Dweller 16600, a GMT-Master 1675, and a Yacht-Master 16622 for a second time, but I never went for the GMT-Master II 16710 again. The prices skyrocketed, and I remember a friend buying a pre-owned 16710 for $7,500 and telling him I thought it was too much. I soon realized this was a mistake.Another GMT watch first…More than once, I have considered the possibility of buying back an old model or simply purchasing a modern one with a ceramic bezel. The GMT feature is quite useful, and for a while, I tried to address this with a Grand Seiko GMT (SBGJ201). I wont say I forgot about the GMT-Master, but I pushed the thought of buying one to the back of my mind. The 2023 bicolor GMT-Master II ref. 126713GRNR changed this, though. After trying it on several occasions, I was seriously considering getting one. However, I remained unsure about the modern versions. They look and wear so differently from the ones I like. That was the reason I parted with my modern Submariner with a ceramic bezel, so I stopped thinking about the newer GMT-Master II for quite a while.Back to the GMT-Master IIThen, earlier this year, I noticed that the GMT-Master II had found its way back into my thoughts. I started browsing Chrono24 and all the usual sellers websites that I know regularly feature GMT-Masters. The heat was on, and my focus was on the 16710. It was at that point that I also considered getting a neo-vintage bicolor 16713. Id always loved these, and during a recent collectors get-together, I saw one and tried it on. I started researching the 16713 and decided that if I wanted one of these, it needed to be on the Jubilee bracelet.My search for the 16710 continued, but I concluded that spending about triple the amount I once paid for a GMT-Master II watch felt very wrong. I didnt realize the same budget would also get me a 16713 with a brown Tiger Eye dial and Jubilee bracelet. Both watches have the same movement (3185). Only the last batches have a slightly different caliber (3186). In 2005, introduced the blue Parachrom hairspring into this caliber, ensuring more stability and resistance to magnetism and shocks.Reference 16713The excuse I often use is that at least I am now buying a different watch for this amount of money, not the same one I once had. However, this is indeed an excuse, and I am fully aware of it. Searching for one reference also makes life a bit easier. After a few weeks, I found a great-looking GMT-Master II 16713, complete with box, papers, and the original invoice. It was even at a vintage dealer in my city!My GMT-Master 16713 with its original faded bezelI decided to visit Manbodh in The Hague to take a closer look at the watch. Aside from the discolored Root Beer bezel, the watch was in great condition. I made possibly the quickest deal ever within a few minutes, and from that moment on (right before Watches and Wonders 2025), it has been tough to wear any other watch. To have it as a spare, I bought a new bezel for the 16713 with fresh colors. However, I noticed that the new bezel also made the brown dial pop more, so I decided to have it swapped.As mentioned, its been a great companion since I got it. I had a two-week interruption due to a holiday in South Africa. I knew that wearing this watch in Cape Town wasnt the best idea, so I wore a G-Shock GW-9200 Riseman instead. But as soon as I got home, it found its way back onto my wrist. I love the Root Beer GMT s color combination with its brown dial, brown and gold bezel, and 18K gold elements. The crown, bezel ring, hands, and the Jubilee bracelets center links are all yellow gold. The precious metal perfectly complements the brown colors on the dial and bezel.On the wristThis 40mm watch (with a 12mm thickness and a 48mm lug-to-lug) is very comfortable on the wrist. Due to its flat case back, I find it more comfortable than my Sea-Dweller. While the modern ceramic-bezel GMT-Master II models have similar dimensions, they look slightly larger on the wrist. This is not an issue on my 18.5cm wrist, but I find the five-digit models more elegant. I also prefer a Porsche 993 over a modern 992, for instance. I know the 992 is a better car, but the 993 is the one that makes me smile more. And just like with watches, thats what matters most.My GMT-Master II 16713 dates back to 1991 (these were produced from 1989 to 2007). It came with the original box, booklets, and even the original invoice, which indicates it was purchased at Tourneau that same year. I wasnt actively searching for one with its box and papers, but I wont refuse these things when theyre available.Setting the time and dateUsing the GMT-Master II is child s play. You can set the hours and minutes by unscrewing the Twinlock crown, pulling it out to the second position, and turning it. To set the 12-hour hand independently, put the crown into the first position. Now, you can set the hour hand to the local time zone (wherever you are), and the minute hand will not move. The GMT hand will point to the 24-hour scale and indicate your home time. The date is not of the quickset variety, but changing it by using the independent hour setting is not too much of a hassle either.Normally, I don t have a preference between an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. With this configuration, however, I like the Jubilee bracelet with its gold center links a bit better. That s just a personal thing, of course. What about micro-adjustment? Sure, there are some holes in the clasp, but you ll have to use a toothpick to change it. And that s fine. The bracelet is super comfortable, and although it wouldn t fly today with modern watches, it does what it needs to do. GMT-Master II ref. 16718 - Image: Chrono24With this purchase, I stilled my hunger for a GMT-Master, and every time I put it on my wrist, it makes me smile. The only reason to part with it would be to get a full-gold 16718 with a brown dial.Watch specifications Brand Model GMT-Master IIReference 16713Dial Brown sunburst with yellow gold luminous indexesCase Material Stainless steel (904L) and 18K yellow gold with aluminum bezel insertCase Dimensions 40mm (diameter) 48mm (lug-to-lug) 12mm (thickness)Crystal Sapphire with date magnifierCase Back Stainless steel Movement 3185: automatic with manual winding and hacking, 28,800vph frequency, 50-hour power reserve, 31 jewelsWater Resistance 100 metersStrap Stainless steel and 18K yellow gold Jubilee bracelet with steel folding claspFunctions Local time (12-hour hand with independent setting, minutes, seconds), home time (24-hour hand and bidirectional 24-hour bezel, date