The Best Boring But Brilliant Watches In The World - Datejust

February 15, 2018

The Datejust is arguably the most recognizable luxury watch in the world. The combination of a Cyclops, fluted bezel, and Jubilee bracelet are symbols of luxury that even the untrained eye will spot instantly. For once, calling this watch an icon is an understatement. But is the Datejust an exciting watch? Well, its not as prestigious as the flagship Day-Date, and it also lacks the raw sex-appeal of the Submariner. Based on that observation you could call the Datejust neither fish nor fowl, bland, and even boring. But can you really do that?I know one guy that will completely disagree with me when I say the Datejust is a boring watch. That guy is Thomas van Straaten who very recently wrote a book with the title Vintage Datejust Buyers & Collectors Guide. In his eyes, the Datejust is the ultimate watch. He might be right. But when something is ultimate or perfect its also boring C imperfection catches the eye, perfection is like water off a ducks back. But maybe I should stop using the word boring and look for another angle when dealing with the perception of the Datejust. Datejust 116233The best boring but brilliant watches in the world - DatejustSo please allow me to rephrase and state that the Datejust is a cliche. Yes, it is the mother of all modern wristwatches, and its also a can-do-all, once-in-a-lifetime kind of watch, but do you feel butterflies when you spot one in the wild or put it on the wrist? I dont. But what I do feel is reassurance. The Datejust is a comforting feel-good watch. Its also a watch that gives you a confidence boost. It confirms you made the right (watch) choice. It helps you show the world youre doing more than okay. But does it rock your world horologically? I really dont think so. Datejust 116234Nothing but respectLets make a comparison, like I did in my story about the Patek Philippe Calatrava. Whenever I see a Ferrari, I feel a tiny bit of excitement C not as much as when I was a young boy, but still. When I see a Porsche 911 I dont feel anything, but theres respect. Respect for a well-engineered masterpiece. A car that always stayed true to its origins. I sense the same when I see or wear a Datejust. I have nothing but respect for the way it has evolved since it debuted in 1945 without losing its original DNA C a Datejust is very much a 911 for the wrist IMHO C but it doesnt make my heart race. Datejust 116300The Sun and the DatejustAllow me to make yet another comparison, because even though I dont find the Datejust very exciting, the success of the watch is without discussion. The problem with humans is that we often take things for granted. And thats why I would like to compare the Datejust to the Sun. Please hear me out.- and the world of watches would quite possibly stop turning without the Datejust.Because just like the Sun that rises in the east and sets in the west, the Datejust is an inevitable fact. But on Earth life without the Sun is impossible, and the world of watches would quite possibly stop turning without the Datejust. The collection is the backbone of , the biggest, most dominant manufacturer of luxury watches in the world. Without the Datejust the world would be a different place. Im not saying dinosaurs would roam the land, but maybe another Swiss brand would be wearing the imaginary watchmaking crown. Datejust 116333The features of a legendBack to the watch itself. And that poses a problem, because talking about the Datejust is sort of impossible. One look at the Datejust section on the website reveals a plethora of variations. A 31mm steel Datejust with a smooth bezel, pink dial with stick indexes, and Oyster bracelet is basically incomparable with a 41mm steel and yellow gold version with slate gray dial and Roman numerals on a two-tone Jubilee bracelet. The most historical and continues size is 36mm. It all started with the 36mm Datejust ref. 4467 from 1945. The watch lacked a Cyclops (the small magnifying glass was introduced eight years later), but shows a fluted bezel C way more subtle and more coin-like than the current ones C and a Jubilee bracelet.The first Oyster Perpetual Datejust from 1945 the reference 4467From elegant to buff and back againIf the ref. 4467 is the original 911, the executions with smooth bezels, Jubilee bracelets and different dials that followed over the years are like a Targa, GTS, and 4S version of the 911. The 41mm Datejust II (ref. 1163xx) that debuted in 2009 was like the introduction of Porsches first SUV, the Cayenne. The words big and bulky come to mind when you see the first Cayennes and the Datejust II. The Datejust II traded elegance for a buff look. It didnt work. In 2016 the Datejust II was replaced by the current Datejust 41 (ref. 1263xx) that lost some weight C it became a tad thinner C and gained back a lot of the original sophistication. Datejust 41 126333Maybe XL should have been LMy favorite Datejust in the current line-up? Well, none. When decided to follow the trend of XL watches they introduced the 41mm Datejust II. And 41mm is just too big for a watch like the Datejust. A watch that already has a lot of presence in a 36mm case.- a 41mm Datejust looks like a 44mm watch and, also because of the very reflective fluted bezel and prominent Jubilee bracelet, that is just too much to handle.I see it this way: a Medium 36mm Datejust has the charisma and presence of a Large 39mm watch. Subsequently, an XL 41mm Datejust looks like a 44mm watch and, also because of the very reflective fluted bezel and prominent Jubilee bracelet, that is just too much to handle. The proportions dont feel right to me. A 39mm version would do the trick if you ask me, but thats a size that doesnt sit well with . Okay, the previous 39mm Explorer wasnt great, but the Oyster Perpetual 39 was superb and was axed nonetheless.Datejust 1601Reassurance and comfort in troublesome timesI see it this way: 36mm is historically correct but too small for the modern man, 41mm is only effective to show off and too big to honor the original elegance of the Datejust. 39mm would be better if you ask me. But that doesnt mean Im right from a commercial perspective. Far from it. Try going to your AD and buy a steel 41mm Datejust with a blue dial. I get it. In difficult times, people seek security, comfort, and ease C another cliche that is oh so true. And no other watch delivers all that in abundance but the Datejust.For Thomas van Straatens book, please visit this Kickstarter page.If you want to know about all the current Datejust models, please visit s official website.Please find and follow me at Lex Stolk ? Instagram