Recent Or Vintage- The Datejust Deserves Your Attention

June 03, 2014

For whatever reason, the Datejust glides past almost invisibly. Perhaps the reason is that its so ubiquitous. Or is it overshadowed by its catalog mates with more tool-like intentions? Whatever the reason, this watch is a standard and deserves a bit more credit.Yawn, another Datejust. Theyre truly everywhere and if youre not seeing an actual example, someone is probably wearing some sort of imitation. The watch has been such a go-to choice for white-collared professionals that it has caused so many other brands to release a copycat or a nearly dead-on competitor over the past 30 to 40 years. As watch enthusiasts, we tend to focus on the sportier models from the brand, but the DJ moves the metal. DatejustChanging dates at midnight since 1945The Datejust first appeared back in 1945 and the innovation it brought seems rather commonplace today. In addition to a water-resistant Oyster case with a screw-down crown, the Datejust featured a date complication that changed instantly around midnight. Other brands, and you can see this on vintage watches from decades later, used movements that began advancing the date wheel well prior to 12:00. The change even went past the hour. Again, this doesnt seem like a big deal today, but it was back then. Notably, the Datejust also introduced the beloved Jubilee bracelet as well as the Cyclops magnifying lens. The latter addition came along in the 50s.Changing thoughts on the DatejustI began taking a shine to watches sometime in high school and, of course, I learned about . However, I learned about a lot of other brands, and one wasnt necessarily above another. Still, at some point towards my senior year, I started to look intently at the Datejust when wed visit the local mall.? Even though two-tone watches were all the rage, yellow gold just wasnt my thing. Plus, it was a lot more expensive. At that time, made a few versions of the stainless Datejust. A sporty smooth bezel, a steel engine-turned version, and the famous white gold fluted model. Plus, the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet was an option. I cant remember which textured bezel I liked, but I remember wanting a dark gray dial with stick indexes. Sadly, reality kicked in and a Datejust at age 18 was not going to happen. Then, I forgot about the Datejust for a while.From Explorer back to the DatejustIve told the story (you can read the article here) about how I purchased an Explorer after college graduation back in 1998. Whereas a Datejust was attractive to me, something sportier and plainer was more appropriate once I hit the working world. An Oyster bracelet looked more utile, and the lack of an ornate bezel seemed less eye-catching. What I later realized, though, is that the two watches were awfully similar in terms of specs and usability.We often talk about how stainless sports models from are amongst the few generally accepted watches for all occasions. I dont know who makes these rules, but I guess were all a little guilty of proliferating the message. Whats more undeniably true, though, is that the Datejust is the watch that can do it all. When I look back at my old Explorer, this watch used the exact same case as the Datejust. Water-resistance ratings differed at one point (the Datejust was good for 50 meters at one point), but theyre now all good for 100 meters.The Datejust 16220 (photo courtesy of bobswatches.com)The Datejust, no matter the configuration, does look more formal. Maybe that made it stodgier to me when I was in my early twenties. Tastes change, though, and I now see these watches for what they are: truly durable pieces that can go anywhere and do anything. Aside from adding some new diameters, the Datejust is also a watch that has basically left alone. Thats a good thing in my view because even the slightly blockier 36mm models from earlier in this decade still look pretty good. Furthermore, when equipped with a Jubilee, are amongst the most comfortable watches in existence. Datejust Tuxedo Dial 116234 (photo courtesy of hqmilton.com)Collectability?Ive had several conversations about the Datejust with friends regarding collectability. I think one thing to keep in mind is that well outside of the collector world, a Datejust is a highly desirable, aspirational object. Therefore, it will always have value and should prove relatively easy to unload depending on the color, condition, etc. Will we ever see skyrocketing prices like we do on the sports models? Im not so sure.Values are up, but not like sports modelsIf youve been following vintage or even recent Datejust models, theyve increased in price along with almost everything else. I blame that partially on the lack of availability and ever-rising retail prices of current models. As sports model prices have skyrocketed beyond the reach of most, some have turned their attention to the Datejust. Theyve realized that this luxury sedan version of a brings all the excellent qualities of the sportier models at a lower price with a lot more selection.That selection, by the way, is one of the things that put me off from buying a vintage Datejust for years. The number of dials, bezel, and bracelet combinations is so staggering that its hard to understand whether one is buying something correctly. We know isnt of any help in verifying this so that just adds to the discomfort. The good thing is that there are so many pieces for sale that theres little reason to rush a purchase.Condition is keyCondition is also something to watch with a Datejust. It seems that a lot of previous owners followed the servicing suggestions well. That sounds like a good thing, but the result is often polished cases and service dials. As mentioned before, there is no reason to buy into this unless the watch somehow appeals to you. On that same front, worn bezels and stretched bracelets are issues that afflict the majestic Datejust. Models like the kooky Turn-O-Graph (a sub-line within the Datejust family) or the fluted variants often show serious signs of wear.As far as desirability, the 160x series that lived from roughly 1959 to 1981 is a real favorite for collectors. These watches feature a pie pan dial that offers a step down towards its edge. Plus, the watches use tritium and acrylic crystals to offer some of that magic warmth. The following series of watches, such as the 16030, melded modern touches like a quickset date but kept acrylic for the non-gold models. Similar to the sports watches, people tend to favor either dark (black, gray, or blue) dials. Exotic renditions exist such as the Roman numeral Buckley dials as well as the Turn-O-Graph. If a Datejust is in your sights, chances are that half the battle will be determining which model you desire. Datejust Turn-O-Graph 116264 (photo courtesy of Diamonds East International)Endless choicesI havent been overly specific on diameter in this article, but my focus is on the 36mm variant. While newer ranges have offered larger sizes, Ive never quite loved the proportions of these pieces. On the other hand, I know that more selection has opened the Datejust to those who like larger watches. If you choose a 36mm model, especially a vintage model, youll be met with a supremely comfortable watch that begs to be worn. These pieces almost feel like nothing on the wrist, but they certainly look like a whole lot more than that. With timeless looks and high levels of comfort, its easy to see why so many never purchase another watch after picking up a Datejust. As an example, my grandfather s mid-90 s 16234 that I now own was his only watch for many years.Final thoughtsMost luxury brands also offer some sort of dressy sports watches, but I cant think of a competitor as pervasive as the Datejust. Watches like the Nautilus or Royal Oak sort of apply, but theyre also multiples more expensive. Other brands make great watches, and some might even say theyre more interesting, but the Datejust has managed to outlive them all. If youre not into , none of the above will likely apply to you. If you are, though, and youve had it with the sports watch surge, a nice recent or vintage Datejust just might be your answer. What are your thoughts on the Datejust?