New: The Nomos Tangente Neomatik In Solid 18K Gold

March 18, 2013

Lets be honest: dropping roughly $10k on a gold Nomos is a real commitment. Given the sought-after and intricate timepieces in that price level, a restrained watch with a focus on quality over flair is a power move. But the Tangente Neomatik in gold is one for Bauhaus connoisseurs. The use of gold may up the bling factor, but the execution remains elegant. Lets see if this yellow gold Nomos lives up to the spirit of the German brand.About a decade ago, I owned a Nomos Zrich Weltzeit. Its a great watch that gave me a sense of sophistication. Eventually, my tastes diverged towards sports timepieces and dive watches. However, given the resurgence of gold dress watches, which you can witness with our Dress Watch Season, a return to the finer things in life could be back on the table. This new Tangente does not mark the first time Nomos has included an option in precious metal. That accolade goes to the 39mm Nomos Lambda from 2015. However, the compact 35mm Tangente, with a 43mm lug-to-lug and an exquisitely slim 6.9mm case profile, is stealthy on the wrist.The Nomos Glashtte Tangente Neomatik in solid yellow goldThe new gold Tangente Neomatik models come in three variants. The first includes a white dial with glistening silver plating and blued hands. Second, similar to the steel Nomos Tangente Neomatik Dore, the gold-cased Dore features the same gold hands for the hours, minutes, and seconds. Lastly, there is the Tangente Gold Neomatik Ruthenium, which has a galvanized black dial. However, it is not a deep black but a very dark gray/brown, depending on the light source. Each variant has a sunken subsidiary seconds register with engraved concentric grooves. Its a very sparse dial, and in tandem with the slim bezel, it creates ample room for embellishment. But the Bauhaus design ethos is all about clean and minimalist aesthetics. The evenly spaced, elongated numerals utilize the dial real estate wonderfully without overpowering the indications.Nomos watches have often been paired with Horween Shell Cordovan straps since their inception. Here, too, the brand pairs the Dore model with a brown one. But the black 18mm Horween strap works beautifully with the gold case of the Classic and Ruthenium variants. Black and gold is a classic combination, and I especially like the ruthenium dial in this range. Powering all the watches is the Neomatik caliber DUW 3001. This automatic movement is only 3.2 millimeters thick, which also contributes to the thin case. It also features a bidirectional-winding rotor, a 43-hour power reserve, and the proprietary Nomos swing system for the escapement. All of this in-house German goodness is visible through the sapphire crystal in the case back.Final specs and pricingFor the ethically conscious, Nomos ensures the gold is certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council Chain of Custody. Similar to Chopards Fairmined program, the RCJ aims to approve the trade of traceable and responsibly sourced precious metals. Each watch costs?$9,800 / $9,800 / US$13,000. You can learn more about the Nomos Glashtte Tangente Neomatik in 18K solid gold here.Watch specifications Brand Nomos Model Tangente Gold NeomatikReference 161 (Classic) / 162 (Dore) / 163 (Ruthenium)Dial Galvanized with white silver plating and black printed numerals and markings (Classic and Dore) or black ruthenium plating with gold printed numerals and markings (Ruthenium), sub-seconds register with concentric engravingCase Material 18K yellow (3N) goldCase Dimensions 35mm (diameter) 43mm (lug-to-lug) 6.9mm (thickness)Crystal Sapphire with antireflective coating on inner sideCase Back 18K yellow gold and sapphire crystal Movement Nomos DUW 3001: automatic with manual winding and hacking seconds, 21,600vph (3Hz) frequency, 43-hour max. power reserve, 37 jewels, Nomos swing systemWater Resistance 3 atm (splash-proof)Strap Black (Classic and Ruthenium) or brown (Dore) Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan (18mm width) with 18K yellow gold pin buckleFunctions Time (hours, minutes, small seconds)Price $9,800 / $9,800 / US$13,000