New: Gerald Genta Geneva Time Only Grafite And Marrone

July 01, 2013

Since I moved to Geneva last May, I started trying to figure out what the city is all about. I had been visiting the lakeside town for probably 20 years, but a visitor doesnt get to experience what a resident encounters daily. Its hard to define Geneva. Yes, banks, watchmakers, and international organizations, such as the United Nations, have a strong presence. Theres more to the place, though - a strong Calvinist tradition of soberness and restraint, as well as a strong feeling of Genevan identity, for example. Yet, theres also an air of elegance and a sense of style. The two new Gerald Genta Geneva Time Only models help me better understand my new home. According to the brand, the Geneva Collection embodies Lesprit de Geneve with sophisticated boldness, translating Mr. Gentas creative legacy into a contemporary expression of refinement.Gentas original from 1970 was edgier; this updated cushion-shaped case is much softer. You might have seen the new case shape before. Last September, Gerald Genta introduced a Minute Repeater in a 40 9.6mm yellow gold case showing the same rounded shapes as the two new Time Only models. This grand complication set the tone, so to speak, for a new collection of elegant timepieces that present themselves with a striking yet discreet style. Maybe the paradoxical mix of restraint and flamboyance is what defines Geneva. In the future, I will behave and dress accordingly.Two new Gerald Genta Geneva Time Only watchesGerald Genta s new Geneva Time Only models are slightly smaller than last year s Minute Repeater. The white gold Geneva Time Only Grafite and rose gold Marrone have cases with a 38mm diameter and an 8.15mm profile. While the shape is sculptural and striking, it has an elegant silhouette.Neither round nor square, the cushion-shaped case, accented by its gadroon, is a peculiar sight. LVMH-owned La Fabrique des Bo?tiers produced the case that houses another LVMH in-house component, the Zenith Elite 670-based GG-005P.This automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve powers the two-hand watch. It beats at a 4Hz frequency, igniting a rhythmic pulse within both pieces, and is visible through the display case back. It comprises 158 components and features a revised rotor.Marrone and GrafiteSo, how do you like your dial - brown or gray? The colors differ, but the rest is the same. Both Geneva Time Only watches feature a grained dial with a smoked gradient effect, a two-tier minute track, 4N rose gold indexes, and rounded, polished hands with pointed tips.The design of both Geneva Time Only watches is by Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. He created watches with an understated yet unmistakably Gerald Genta presence. Hegis design shows refinement with a single, broad, and short central lug on each side, a deliberate choice that sharpens the cases contours. The rose gold Geneva Time Only Marrone on a brown leather strap displays a soft, warm palette, its subtle bronze glow giving it a retro elegance. The Geneva Time Only Grafite in a cooler white gold case with a silver-gray dial and a gray calfskin strap is a more modern-looking creation. While the Geneva Time Only is available in either rose or white gold, both versions cost the same - CHF 25,000 before taxes. Do you think thats a fair price when considering that after Monaco, Geneva has the worlds second-highest concentration of millionaires? FYI, a recent study reveals that Geneva has 90,300 millionaires, 345 centimillionaires, 16 billionaires, and yours truly. Does this information help you to see why the Gerald Genta Geneva Time Only Grafite and Marrone are watch expressions of the city? It helped me.Watch specifications Brand Gerald Genta Model Geneva Time Only Marrone and GrafiteReference ECFD01A1 (Marrone) / ECFF01A1 (Grafite)Dial Brown or gray brass with a grained finish, 4N rose gold indexes, white decalque minuterie, and polished and rounder 4N rose gold handsCase Material 18K white or rose golCase Dimensions 38mm (diameter) 8.15mm (thickness)Crystal SapphireCase Back 18K white or rose gold and sapphire crystal, affixed with four screws Movement GG-005P (Zenith Elite 670 with redesigned oscillating mass): automatic with manual winding and hacking, 28,800vph (4Hz) frequency, 50-hour power reserve,158 components, 27 jewels, 25.6mm diameter, 3.88mm thickness Strap Taupe or brown calf leather (20/18mm) with case-matching pin buckleFunctions Time only (hours and minutes)Price CHF 25,000 (ex. taxes)