Meet The New Bell Ross BR-X3: Built For Extremes

December 05, 2019

I have long had a soft spot for Bell & Rosss X series. The BR-X1 chronographs were some of the most technically ambitious pieces the brand has ever produced, and the BR-X5 models proved that this ultra-modern side of the catalog could also deliver good looks. With that in mind, it was only a matter of time before the BR-03 received the same treatment. Now, on the 20th anniversary of the brands iconic square case, Bell & Ross has unveiled the BR-X3.The X series has always represented the experimental wing of Bell & Ross, borrowing inspiration from aerospace and pushing the limits of design. The BR-X3 continues that story, taking the familiar BR-03 platform and amplifying it with bold case architecture, refined movement engineering, and the kind of visual identity that has defined Bell & Ross since 2005.Designing for extremesThe case is the headline here. Bell & Ross built the BR-X3 around a sandwich-style, multilayer structure that adds visual depth and technical credibility. Two gray titanium plates - top and bottom - hold all components together. The black color of the strap continues through the case, forming a black band that runs between the two gray titanium layers, explains Bruno Belamich, the creative director and co-founder of Bell & Ross. This multilayer design lets us mix materials, colors, and finishes.It looks fantastic in photos, but Im keen to see it in person. Case construction is something you feel on the wrist as much as you see with the eyes. If Bell & Ross has executed this as well as it appears, the BR-X3 could be one of the most sophisticated tool watches in the brands lineup.Two versions, two personalitiesThe BR-X3 launches as a duo, and the choice between them says a lot about what kind of collector you are. Both share the same 41mm case architecture and movement, but the personality shifts dramatically depending on whether you go for stealthy titanium or the less expressive steel-and-blue combination.BR-X3 Black TitaniumThe first of the two versions is the BR-X3 Black Titanium. Titanium has long been one of my favorite case materials, and its always welcome in a professional-grade watch. The metal is light on the wrist, resistant to corrosion, and surprisingly warm against the skin. That comfort is matched by the vented black rubber strap, which keeps the watch breathable and secure even in hot conditions.Visually, the Black Titanium leans into a monochrome aesthetic with layers of gray and black. For me, thats a winning combination. Color has its place, but there are times when gray and black do all the heavy lifting. These shades give the watch a purposeful, technical look that suits the X series perfectly. Priced at $8,400 / US$7,900 / $7,200, it s the more expensive option of the two, but it s worth the upgrade in my opinion.BR-X3 Blue SteelFor those who prefer a splash of color, the BR-X3 Blue Steel takes the same platform and infuses it with tones of-well, blue. The case is polished and satin-finished steel with anodized blue aluminum accents, and the dial has a sunray finish that shimmers in the light. Its meant to evoke the atmosphere of aerospace travel, and it succeeds in giving the square case a more jewel-like presence.Its less tool-like than the titanium version, but thats not necessarily a drawback. The Blue Steel feels more versatile, like a watch that could transition from professional use to evening wear with ease. OK, thats perhaps a bit of a stretch, but it maybe looks little more refined than the Black Titanium, which is great if thats your thing. For collectors who like their instrument watches with a touch of sophistication, its an appealing option. The Blue Steel is slightly cheaper than the Black Titanium, coming in at $7,400 / US$6,800 / $6,300.The engine insideBoth watches house the BR-CAL.323, a movement produced for Bell & Ross by Kenissi. This is the same supplier behind Tudor, Fortis, and other respected brands, so the pedigree is strong. The movement is a COSC-certified chronometer with a 4Hz frequency and a 70-hour power reserve.On the dial, youll find a power reserve indicator at 9 o clock to track those 70 hours and a three-date aperture at 3 oclock. That symmetry gives the watch a balanced, highly legible layout. The fact that the movement comes with a five-year warranty speaks to the confidence Bell & Ross and Kenissi have in its performance.Strap and wearabilityThe BR-X3 arrives on the same vented rubber strap I first encountered on the BR-03 Chrono Rafale Solo Display last month. I was a fan of it there, and Im glad to see it return here. The cut-out design not only looks sporty but also keeps the strap lightweight and breathable. Its the kind of small detail that makes a big difference when you wear the watch for long periods.Between the compact 41mm case size, the lightweight titanium option, and the strap design, the BR-X3 is clearly built with daily wear in mind, even if its design language comes straight from the extremes of aviation and aerospace.Twenty years of the square iconThe launch of the BR-X3 ties neatly into a bigger milestone for Bell & Ross. This year marks two decades since the BR-01 first appeared in 2005. That watch was a game-changer that brought cockpit-inspired square cases to wrists for the first time. The BR-03 followed in 2006 with a more wearable 42mm case. Since then, the brand has experimented relentlessly, from the Skull series to Flight Instruments and beyond.What has remained consistent is the circle in a square design. Over 20 years, Bell & Ross has proven that the concept isnt a one-off gimmick but a flexible platform that can suit everything from skeletonized tourbillons to stealthy ceramic divers. The BR-X3 is the latest chapter, one that shows the icon is still capable of surprising us 20 years on. Some people may argue that Bell & Rosss square case is not iconic, but in my opinion, theyd be wrong. For us watch folks, it s instantly recognizable in the way that any good icon is.Why the BR-X3 mattersThe BR-X3 is exactly what I want from the X series. It takes the familiar BR-03 form and reimagines it through advanced case construction, a high-grade Kenissi movement, and a choice of two strong personalities. My pick would be the titanium model for its lightness and monochrome appeal, but I can easily see the Blue Steel winning over collectors who prefer something more colorful.After 20 years of bold square watches, Bell & Ross has shown that the concept still has plenty of room to evolve. The BR-X3 is not just a new release but also a reminder of why the brands design language remains instantly recognizable and endlessly adaptable. Whats next for the X series? Feel free to share your predictions in the comments below.Watch specifications Brand Bell & Ross Model BR-X3Reference BRX3R-BL-TI/SRB (Black Titanium) | BRX3R-BLU-ST/SRB (Blue Steel)Dial Three-plate construction (matte black varnished base, microblasted applique, microblasted insert) with microblasted Baignoire-style applied indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova X1 (Black Titanium) | Three-plate construction (blue sunray varnished base, polished rhodium-plated applique, microblasted rhodium-plated insert) with polished and rhodium-plated Baignoire-style applied indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova X1 (Blue Steel)Case Material Microblasted Grade 2 titanium, screw-down crown and crown guard with black DLC finish, decorative side pillar and bezel in black rubber (Black Titanium) | Satin-finished and polished steel, decorative side pillar and bezel in blue anodized aluminum with microblasted finish (Blue Steel)Case Dimensions 41mm (diameter) 13.30mm (thickness)Crystal Sapphire with antireflective coatingCase Back Case-matching metal with sapphire crystal, affixed with four screws Movement BR-CAL.323: produced by Kenissi, automatic winding with hacking seconds, 28,800vph (4Hz) frequency, 70-hour power reserve, COSC-certified chronometer Water Resistance 100 metersStrap Black or blue openworked rubber with case-matching buckleFunctions Time (hours, minutes, seconds), date, and power reserve indicatorPrice $8,400 / US$7,900 / $7,200 (Black Titanium) | $7,400 / US$6,800 / $6,300 (Blue Steel)