Introducing: The Land-Dweller Collection

February 10, 2016

For the second year in a row, the releases were leaked on social media. Therefore, the new Land-Dweller collection was expected. Still, with , seeing photos hardly exposes all the details. The headline news is clear, though, and the largest brand is back in the market with its first integrated-bracelet model since 2003.It wasn t long ago that I penned an article on modern brands that should consider quartz. The original Oysterquartz made my list of suggestions. With the announcement of the new Land-Dweller, it looks as if my wish has been granted - sort of. Let s get to the details, but before we do, perhaps a touch of history is necessary. 1530 - Image: Bulang & Sons celebrates anniversaries - quietlyIn 1975, released small quantities of the references 1530 and 1630. These watches were branded as Date models and used the automatic chronometer-certified caliber 1575. The 1530 was an all-stainless affair with a flat Oyster-like bracelet, while the 1630 was a two-tone model with a flat Jubilee-like bracelet. Importantly, though, these bracelets were integrated with a funky (for ) angular case.Lore surmises that these automatic Date watches were simply the precursors to a seemingly far more important release, the Oysterquartz of 1977. The Oysterquartz contained the brand s first volume-production quartz movement and was meant to stave off potential ruin due to the success of battery-powered models from other brands. The Oysterquartz came in many forms, including a model with a fluted bezel, and ultimately became part of the Datejust collection. Overall, the models were a moderate success, but stories exist of them sitting in display cases for ages toward the end of production in 2003. Now, 50 years after the original 1530 and 1630, is back with a similar lineup of mechanical pieces.The Land-DwellerIndeed, at first glance, the new Land-Dweller is the spitting image of the former integrated-bracelet model that debuted during the disco era. The Land-Dweller is also available in two sizes and multiple case materials. The larger model measures 40mm wide and, thankfully, just 9.7mm thick. The smaller piece is 36mm across and 9.7mm thick. Unlike some other brands watches with an integrated look, these are the real deal. Many of us never remove a bracelet anyhow, but it s not meant to occur with these new pieces.Other key details include a Cyclops, a fluted gold or diamond-set bezel depending on the case material, and a flat Jubilee bracelet. The outer links are wider with a matte finish, and the inner three links are polished. A concealed clasp leaves only the coronet showing, giving these watches a dressier look. Still, the obligatory screw-down crown means the watch has a water resistance rating of 100 meters.Many options - dials and stylesFor the debut, has made it relatively easy to run down the Land-Dweller lineup. The 36mm and 40mm options are available in steel with a white gold bezel (aka white Rolesor), 18K rose gold (aka Everose), and platinum. The gold and platinum models can be optioned with a fluted bezel or diamond-set version. Regarding the dials, the steel and gold models feature white honeycomb-pattern ones with Arabic 6 and 9 numerals. The platinum models come with the familiar ice-blue dial and the same motif. If diamonds are added to the bezel, the hour indexes follow suit as baguettes.I ll withhold final judgment about the dials until I see the watches later today. I don t mind the honeycomb pattern, but I think the Arabic numerals look too large. Plus, the hands are bulky and a tad clumsy. I do like the seconds hand with its eye of the needle design. I d love to see darker variants with simple baton markers, but perhaps those will come in future years.A new caliber with serious chops in the Land-DwellerHistorically, has made some fantastically reliable and high-performing movements. However, they re often hidden and referred to as workhorses. With the Land-Dweller, all of that changes. First, the new caliber 7135 is visible under a sapphire crystal. For reference, has never sold a stainless steel watch with a display back. Then, there s the performance and the specs. moves slowly when introducing new technology. Syloxi, speak for a silicon hairspring, has been around since 2014, but the Land-Dweller is the first larger model to use the material. Next, and this is huge, the watch runs at a 5Hz (or 36,000vph) frequency. The even larger news is that the movement contains a new Dynapulse escapement. Essentially, this is a silicon sequential-distribution escapement with an antimagnetic ceramic balance staff that is precisely oiled before assembly into the movement. It features two distribution wheels that activate an impulse rocker, which connects with the oscillator. This reduces energy loss and friction versus typical Swiss lever movements. Until now, such a movement has been incredibly difficult to produce at scale due to the need for absolute precision. The fact that has made this available in a serial-production line is nothing short of impressive.The specsCaliber 7135 boasts impressive specifications. Like other movements, it is a certified chronometer and achieves accuracy levels of 2 seconds per day. The power reserve is a lengthy 66 hours. Because the balance staff is ceramic, the watch now has enhanced Paraflex shock absorbers, which protect the delicate components in various positions.PricingWhereas the old Datejust Oysterquartz was priced similarly to its mechanical stablemate, the new Land-Dweller is positioned as a more premium product. The standard precious-metal bezels and enhanced movement help justify the difference. The 36mm Rolesor models cost CHF 13,300, while the 40mm editions are CHF 14,200. The 36mm and 40mm Everose models cost CHF 40,100 and CHF 43,900, respectively. Adding diamonds brings them to CHF 84,200 and CHF 98,400. Platinum continues to outweigh all other materials literally and figuratively at CHF 56,400 and CHF 60,600. Diamonds raise the bar again to CHF 90,500 and CHF 111,500.The significance of the Land-DwellerWhenever releases a new line of watches, it s a big deal. With the Land-Dweller announcement, it s massive. While I m not in love with the model name or the dials, it s hard to fault the watches in general. Multiple sizes and materials make this a relatively complete initial offering instead of a multi-year dribs-and-drabs story. Then again, I d love to see some darker dials with simple baton hands. The movement, however, is even more exciting. I suppose some haters will continue to hate, but this type of technical prowess makes it difficult to complain. The pricing reflects the innovative additions, but I don t find it offensive. Compared to the Datejust, there s a healthy difference, but it seems wanted to create separation instead of an addition to that line. As for availability, get ready for disappointment until the initial fervor subsides. Hopefully, these Land-Dweller watches will become more prevalent within the next year.Watch specifications Brand Model Land-DwellerReference 127234 (White Rolesor 36mm) / 127334 (White Rolesor 40mm) / 127235 (Everose 36mm) / 127285TBR (Everose 36mm Diamonds) / 127335 (Everose 40mm) / 127385TBR (Everose 40mm DIamonds) / 127236 (Platinum 36mm) / 127286TBR (Platinum 36mm Diamonds) / 127336 (Platinum 40mm) / 127386TBR (Platinum 40mm Diamonds)Dial Intense white with honeycomb motif, applied indexes and Arabic numerals with Chromalight, and date window (White Rolesor and Everose) / Ice blue with honeycomb motif, applied indexes and Arabic numerals with Chromalight, and date window (Platinum) / Intense white or ice blue with honeycomb motif and baguette-cut diamond indexes (Everose and Platinum)Case Material 904L stainless steel with white gold bezel / 18K rose gold with or without diamond-set bezel / platinum with or without diamond-set bezel Case Dimensions 36mm (diameter) 9.7mm (thickness) / 40mm (diameter) 9.7mm (thickness)Crystal SapphireCase Back 904L stainless steel / 18K rose gold / platinum with sapphire display, screw-in Movement 7135: automatic with manual winding and hacking, 36,000vph, 66-hour power reserve, 39 jewels, silicon hairspring, ceramic balance staff, Dynapulse escapement, chronometer certifiedWater Resistance 100 metersStrap Stainless steel, 18K rose gold, or platinum flat Jubilee bracelet with concealed claspFunctions Time (hours, minutes, seconds) and datePrice CHF 13,300 (36mm Rolesor) / CHF 14,200 (40mm Rolesor) / CHF 40,100 (36mm Everose) / CHF 43,900 (40mm Everose) / CHF 84,200 (36mm Everose Diamonds) / CHF 98,400 (40mm Everose Diamonds) / CHF 56,400 (36mm Platinum) / CHF 60,600 (40mm Platinum) / CHF 90,500 (36mm Platinum Diamonds) / CHF 111,500 (40mm Platinum Diamonds)Warranty Five years