Introducing: The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

April 25, 2017

I have had the pleasure of meeting Josh Shapiro, owner of the eponymously named J.N. Shapiro Watches, several times. Hailing from Los Angeles, he has a wealth of knowledge about watchmaking history, movements, and finishing techniques. Until now, he has focused on exclusive and expensive watches with prices over $75,000 and wait times of nearly three years. The new Infinity Series Pure marks a change, allowing a small number of buyers to own a J.N. Shapiro watch sooner and for less.J.N. Shapiro Watches?was founded in 2018 and has produced several models. Famously, the brand s Resurgence model is the first all-American watch since Hamilton closed its Lancaster, Pennsylvania-based watchmaking operations in the late 1960s. However, the Resurgence is expensive and exclusive. Aside from the American production, Josh and his team focus heavily on hand-finishing crafts. He has made significant investments in historic equipment, including rose engines, with a commitment to eschewing modern CNC processes. As we ll see today, the Infinity Series Pure uses these difficult techniques while keeping the final price in relative check.The J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series PureShapiro watches tend to give off a classical vibe, but that doesn t mean that the brand ignores current trends. As a result, the new Infinity Series Pure pieces are J.N. Shapiro s smallest and thinnest releases to date. Two models highlight this introduction, and both use 316L stainless steel cases, a point we will discuss in a moment. They have a 37mm diameter, a 45.1mm length, and a slim 8.8mm profile, including the sapphire crystal. Despite the dressy appearance, each has a handy 50m water resistance rating. It s a sign that these watches are meant to be worn. Depending on the chosen dial, a black or brown alligator strap with a stainless steel pin buckle is included.More on the caseFor folks who follow the J.N. Shapiro brand closely, the cases for the Infinity Series Pure likely come off as quite plain. Indeed, watches like the Resurgence boast rose-wheel-created patterns on the midcase. These newest watches are unadorned, which certainly helps with the price point, but that doesn t mean they re unattractive. A brushed mid-case is sandwiched between a polished bezel and case back. Interestingly, the maker of the cases isn t divulged in the press material, but Shapiro mentions that they re sourced from a fellow Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA) member. This group was announced last year at Geneva Watch Days and includes Ming, Fleming, Fears, Massena Lab, and, of course, J.N. Shapiro. The dials and hands are the stars of the showShapiro doesn t hide the fact that the dial and handset are the primary cost drivers of the Infinity Series Pure. Frosted silver or black zirconium versions are available with polished rose gold or white gold hands, respectively. The brand s signature Infinity Weave guilloche is all done by hand on vintage rose engines. Similarly, the circular-brushed hour/minute track contains a ring of filet saute guilloche created using a straight-line engine. The small team at Shapiro also creates the handset in-house and manually polishes it.A La Joux-Perret caliber under the engraved case backWhile we ve grown accustomed to seeing exquisitely finished movements in Shapiro s watches, the Infinity Series Pure has an all-steel case back. The consolation prize is a good one, though, because the case back is engine-turned and hand-engraved with a beautiful pattern and infinity symbol in the center. Inside, the watch uses the La Joux-Perret F200. This is a manual-winding caliber with a 3Hz (21,600vph) frequency and a 90-hour power reserve.Thoughts on the Infinity Series PureThe new Infinity Series Pure is classically attractive. It has a beautiful dial design in either colorway. Details like the logo on a plate and the various surface textures are classy. Plus, as someone who has examined a Shapiro dial under a loupe, I can testify that the workmanship should be second to none. Where I struggled with previous releases, though, was on the wrist. Despite moderate diameters, the case designs didn t always fit the shape of my wrist. I have not tried these new pieces on yet, but the size and shape are likely an improvement for someone with a smaller forearm.Affordable but still priceyAt US$26,000 (excluding taxes and duties), the J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure represents a departure from the brand s normal pricing level. Just 18 pieces of each will be made, with deliveries slated for the fourth quarter of 2025. The price may be more affordable, but it s still expensive. Also, the use of a third-party movement will likely elicit concerns from some. Essentially, this watch s cost comes down to the hand-finishing of the dial, hands, and case back. It also relates to the brand s location and heavy investment in equipment over the last several years. Yes, other small brands, like Garrick, offer similar temptations at lower prices. Assessing comparative value among watches like this is difficult, and buyers decisions likely include everything from design and relationship with the maker to the story behind the watch. Regardless, I am sure that 36 people will enjoy owning a watch from the Shapiro workshops.Watch specifications Brand J.N. Shapiro Model Infinity Series Pure Dial Black zirconium or frosted silver with hand-guilloche Infinity Weave pattern, circular-brushed hour/minute and sub-seconds rings with black numerals and markings, white gold hands and logo plate for black dial, rose gold hands and logo plate for silver dialCase Material 316L stainless steelCase Dimensions 37mm (diameter) 45.1mm (lug-to-lug) 8.8mm (thickness with crystal, 7.4mm without)Crystal SapphireCase Back Stainless steel with hand-guilloche pattern and infinity symbol, affixed with four screws Movement La Joux-Perret F200: manual winding, 21,600vph frequency, 90-hour power reserve, 21 jewelsWater Resistance 50 metersStrap Black or brown alligator (19mm width) with stainless steel pin buckleFunctions Time only (hours, minutes, small seconds)Price US$26,000 Special Note(s) Limited to 36 watches (18 with each dial) with deliveries expected in Q4 2025