Introducing: The Doxa Sub 300- Collection In Steel

December 14, 2011

Doxa is a diver-focused brand that continues to make its mark with pieces inspired by its back catalog. Today, though, we see something different with a new line of watches called the Sub 300 collection. They won t be mistaken for anything but Doxa divers, but the debut represents a solid step toward modernity.It was late August of this year when Doxa introduced the Sub 300 Sharkhunter, a rather luxurious take on its eminent historic diver. The watch contains a forged carbon case, 18K gold elements, and a ceramic bezel. It also comes with a $7,250 price tag, which is something very different from the normally approachable brand. With today s news, we re seeing a return to affordability mixed with modern touches inspired by the full-carbon model.The Doxa Sub 300 collectionThe new Doxa Sub 300 models usher in 316L stainless steel cases, ceramic bezels, and sunburst wave dials. Five variants are available and use familiar names, including Professional, Divingstar, Aquamarine, Caribbean, and Searambler. However, aside from the Searambler and Caribbean models, the rest feature black dials with accents in colors normally reserved for the dials themselves. Doxa is clear that an urban-chic look was the goal for these watches. I ll simply say that with this palette, they re less informal than the traditional lineup.A slimmer case in steelDoxa has brought the same slimmer case dimensions from the Sub 300 Sharkhunter to these newest steel editions. At just 11.95mm thick (remember, this is a 300m-rated dive watch with a helium valve), it falls somewhere between the regular flat-crystal 300T and the 300 no T case, excluding its domed crystal. I think that s a wise move during a time when many are calling for smaller or slimmer watches. From the topside, the same 42.5mm 44.5mm dimensions are in play, translating to a footprint that works surprisingly well for a huge range of wrists. The addition of the black bezel should only serve to make the watches seem even smaller visually.Wave dials with a sunburst effect for the Sub 300Doxa has long been a home for solid, matte, yet often colorful dials. Recently, though, we ve seen watches like the Clive Cussler Sub 300T bring in altogether different formats. With these new steel 300 models, the brand is introducing even more texturing and finishing. Doxa has adorned all five variants with a sunburst-effect wave dial. The inevitable Omega Seamaster 300M comparisons will come, but along with Seiko and some of its Save the Ocean editions, Doxa isn t the first other brand to use this style. Still, I can t help but wish the designers had chosen something slightly different to help avoid the discussion.As far as other cosmetic characteristics, all Sub 300 variants contain contrasting colored accents on the minute hand, indices, bezel, and black-coated screw-down crown. While not as sporty as other boldly-colored Doxa models, these still carry off a tool-watch vibe. This is especially true when paired with a colorful 20mm FKM strap and black PVD-coated clasp. The unidirectional ceramic bezels are fully ceramic, have a luminous pip, and contain the expected no-decompression scale. Finally, the antireflective sapphire crystal sits flush with the bezel, so the overall thickness is true to the numbers provided.Movement detailsSwiss (we assume Sellita) automatic movements with a quick-set date function are found within the new Sub 300 pieces. Their rotors contain Doxa engravings, which are not visible under the solid stainless case backs. As far as specs, the movement runs at a 28,800vph frequency and has a power reserve of 38 hours. Unlike the carbon Sharkhunter, these watches are not chronometer certified. Still, expect a reliable powertrain, and should anything occur, Doxa does offer a two-year warranty.Pricing and takeawaysWith its strong ties to historical models, Doxa has always been in a funny position regarding how best to evolve. In that respect, I see parallels with Tudor, but as a smaller brand, this is perhaps even a bigger struggle for Doxa. I ve always wondered how a brand breaks out of this retro reliance and brings something new to the party without alienating its loyal fan base. I think the Sub 300 collection shows us how Doxa is attempting to do that. By and large, this seems like a successful release that should please those who ve already had their fill of near reissues of older references while also attracting a new crowd. At some point, I suppose it s time to move forward.All of these models will be available immediately on the Doxa website and at authorized dealers. Pricing is set at $2,410 on the FKM straps and $2,450 on the beads-of-rice bracelet with wetsuit extension. I think that s fair for a modern, capable, and attractive dive watch from a well-respected brand like Doxa. I am certainly interested in hearing your thoughts on how the Sub 300 should appeal to both potential new buyers and longtime fans. As always, drop your thoughts in the comments.Watch specifications Brand Doxa Model Sub 300 - Professional, Aquamarine, Searambler, Divingstar, or Caribbean Dial Sunburst finish with wave pattern - black with accents in orange (Professional), turquoise (Aquamarine), or yellow (Divingstar), blue with orange accents (Caribbean), and silver with orange accents (Searambler)Case Material 316L stainless steel with ceramic bezelCase Dimensions 42.5mm (diameter) 44.5mm (lug-to-lug) 11.95mm (thickness)Crystal Flat sapphire with antireflective coatingCase Back Stainless steel screw-in Movement Automatic Swiss movement - 28,800vph frequency, 38-hour power reserveWater Resistance 300 metersStrap FKM rubber strap, tone-on-tone matching the dial (or white for Caribbean and Searambler); black PVD-coated folding clasp with ratcheting wetsuit extension or 316L stainless steel beads-of-rice bracelet; stainless steel folding clasp with ratcheting wetsuit extensionFunctions Time (hours, minutes, seconds), date, dive bezel with no-decompression scale, helium valvePrice $2,410 (strap) / $2,450 (bracelet)Warranty Two years