Hot Take: The New MBF SP One Is Classic MBF

April 03, 2022

What happens when one of horologys most radical voices tries its hand at something classically elegant? You get the MB&F SP One. At just 38mm across and 12mm thick, its the smallest and slimmest watch the brand has ever made. But dont let that fool you. This might be a more compact, dress-watch-adjacent MB&F, but its still a stage for theatrical mechanics and levitating design in true MB&F style.Originally nicknamed Three Circles, the SP One centers around a trio of floating components - the mainspring barrel, the balance wheel, and the brands signature tilted dial. All sit within a domed sapphire pebble-like case, creating a sense of weightlessness and symmetry that turns the wrist into a miniature arena. Thanks to some clever engineering and nearly invisible architecture, each element shares the same diameter and appears to hover in mid-air. The result is a deeply three-dimensional watch that feels both serene and technically complex.The concept dates back to a crude sketch MB&F founder Max Bsser drew in 2018, showing a trio of circles resembling a robotic smiley face. This idea, like many at MB&F, was tossed into the brands special projects basket, where it stayed dormant until the COVID pandemic triggered a creative rethink. With the world slowing down, MB&F plunged into its archive of half-finished concepts and passion projects. That same creative pause gave rise to the wildly successful M.A.D.1. Now it brings us the SP One. Thankfully, the F of MB&F could translate this sketch into something tangible. I saw the sketch before the final photos of the watch, and honestly, I had no idea what to expect.Launching a new category of MB&F watches with the SP OneThis SP One marks the launch of a new product category for the brand - Special Projects. These are not Horological Machines or Legacy Machines but, rather, something in between. They are whimsical, expressive, and a bit harder to define. Think of them as concept cars for the wrist, albeit fully road legal. As with concept cars, we can probably expect concept prices too-Despite its smaller size, the SP One is packed with MB&Fs signature DNA. The balance wheel is dramatically visible at 2 oclock, oscillating like a miniature UFO. The conical gearing system allows the wearer to read the time off the signature tilted black sub-dial at 6. The domed sapphire crystals above and below offer a clear view of the entire amphitheater, while the bridges and screws sit cleverly tucked out of sight to preserve the illusion of levitation. The fewer visible components, the more powerful the effect.The SP One design feels as good as it looksThe case itself is pure tactile satisfaction. Smooth and curved like a river pebble, it is a bezel-free monobloc form with elegantly detached lugs that rise from the base rather than jut from the sides. This soft-edged architecture gives the SP One a natural, almost organic vibe. While far removed from the steampunk drama of the Horological Machines, it is no less charismatic.MB&F worked with long-time friend and collaborator Eric Giroud to refine the design through countless iterations and bring it to life. The in-house-developed movement features 191 components, a 72-hour power reserve, and immaculate manual finishing throughout.?Every chaton, every angle, every surface has received the artisanal treatment. Two launch editions of the SP One are available - one in platinum with a sky-blue flange and another in rose gold with an anthracite surround. Both come equipped with calfskin straps and pin buckles in case-matching precious metals. Ill be honest: as beautiful as the open architecture is, it does mean youll see a lot of your wrist through those large domed sapphire crystals. Some collectors wont mind, but I know it could be a turn-off for others. If you fall on the hairier end of the wrist spectrum, you might not love the idea of your rather expensive watch sharing visual real estate with a tangle of arm hair. In truth, its probably a minor concern for those lucky enough to buy one. Still, I cant help thinking it might bug me a little. Or maybe this is just me trying to make myself feel better because I cant afford one.MB&F delivers elegance through surpriseIn typical MB&F fashion, the SP One challenges the very idea of what a classic watch can be. It is elegant without being boring, minimal without being sterile, and technically intricate without overwhelming the wearer. After two decades of blowing minds, MB&F has delivered something that whispers instead of shouts. Somehow, that makes it even more compelling.MB&F has once again delivered a genuinely unique and visually magnetic design. As with most full MB&F launches, these are unlikely to linger on the shelf for long. No production numbers were given, but Id expect these watches to be pretty limited. The prices are surprisingly affordable for MB&F; however, they re still not exactly impulse-buy material. Still, Im happy to admire things I cant afford.?18K rose gold with an anthracite flange retails for CHF 58,000 + VAT (USD 76,000 / EUR 64,000 + tax); Platinum 950 with a sky-blue flange retails for CHF 63,000 + VAT (USD 82,000 / EUR 69,000 + tax).What do you think of the MB&F SP One? Let us know in the comments.Watch specifications Brand MB&F Model SP One Dial Black decentralized time display with circular brushing and applied indexes, visible balance and mainspring barrel, sky-blue or anthracite flangeCase Material Platinum or 18K rose goldCase Dimensions 38mm (diameter) 12mm (thickness)Crystal Domed sapphireCase Back Platinum or 18K rose gold with sapphire crystal Movement Specially developed with Eric Giroud, manual winding, 72-hour power reserve, 31 jewels, 191 components, finished by hand Strap Beige or green calfskin with case-matching pin buckleFunctions Time only (hours and minutes)Price 18K rose gold = CHF 58,000 + VAT (USD 76,000 / EUR 64,000 + tax); Platinum 950 = CHF 63,000 + VAT (USD 82,000 / EUR 69,000 + tax)