Have Luxury Limited-Edition Watches Lost Their Purpose?

December 07, 2018

Limited-edition watches come in many shapes and sizes. And numbers. Almost every brand active in the luxury watchmaking sector makes LEs for countries, cities, retailers, car brands, sports teams, individual athletes, pilots, significant events, bands, fictional characters, artists, etc. Yes, the list of reasons to create a limited-edition watch seems unlimited, and that can hardly be how it was once intended. The purpose of a limited edition is to entice buyers with a one-of-a-kind design and exclusivity. And since everybody wants to be special but not too different, an LE from a well-known brand is a winning formula. Is it, though, with so many different LEs linked to so many things constantly being churned out? Have limited-edition timepieces lost their meaning and purpose?Too much of a good thing is a bad thing. Mark Twain (1835C1910) said it, and although he wasnt talking about limited-edition watches, he did have a point. Its not just the number of incessant LEs but also the connections they have to third parties that often make us at Fratello HQ roll our eyes. There are natural occasions to release a limited run of, lets say, an existing model with some different colors - the 50th anniversary of a dive watch, for example. I dont think many watch fans would argue about such a release. Most likely, if brand X doesnt celebrate one of its most famous creations with an LE, those fans will voice their disappointment. Unfortunately, though, many LE watches today are over-produced and over-hyped.TAG Heuer Formula 1 Mario KartHave luxury limited-edition watches lost their meaning and purpose?When FOMO rules, why not tap into that? I get it from a commercial perspective, but watch brands sometimes want a piece of the action all too eagerly. LE watches should not be like LE Air Jordans, though. Treating watches like sneakers devalues them. The same goes for mixing pop culture and watches by creating themed limited editions. Does a tourbillon watch with a depiction of Mario on the dial - the guy from Mario Kart, the popular Nintendo video game - add something positive to the story of TAG Heuer and the perception of the mechanical whirlwind, a major horological invention?TAG Heuer Formula 1 Mario Kart Chronograph Tourbillon Limited EditionI dont believe it does, but I also believe that watch isnt aimed at people who have to think (too long and hard) about how and on what they spend their money. For affluent clients, buying a complicated luxury watch is the same as buying a pair of LE sneakers. It s good for them, but Im not sure its good for the watch brand. It turns a historical luxury product with pedigree and artisanal qualities into a fast-moving consumer good. It becomes a piece of paraphernalia that will entertain its owner for, quite possibly, just a very short time. Thats not what a high-end watch should be about.Oris ProPilot X Kermit EditionThe power to polarizeThe watch I just described is aimed at a different audience than a traditional tourbillon. Possibly, it s a new, bigger audience that s not deeply interested in a timepiece outfitted with a device of historical watchmaking significance. Instead, this group is positively triggered by the fun character from a video game on the dial. But the brands traditional audience will read/hear about the lighthearted video-game-inspired watch. It could seriously harm how the brand is perceived and valued. Remember, trust is a valuable commodity in the world of luxury. Trust makes people spend (too much) money on items they might not need but will desire and value for a long time to come. That trust takes a long time to build, but it can be broken instantly. Sure, polarizing LEs can entice a FOMO-driven audience, but they can also alienate a potentially more valuable one.The theory of a limited-edition watchTheoretically, a watch limited by either time or quantity should attract buyers through its exclusivity and distinctive design. However, limited editions often frustrate consumers due to inconsistent or opaque production strategies. Some are numbered, but others are not. Some are inherently limited, while others are artificially constrained. And some remain exclusive, while others eventually become part of the regular catalog. When brands release too many LEs (a common misstep), it dilutes their impact. Consumers may become confused or indifferent in a market flooded with supposedly special releases. Do you remember the backlash in the late 2010s for Omega overusing the LE label? It resulted in the brand not doing numbered LEs anymore, although it still has watches limited by production in the current collection.Our 2018 Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday 2 Ultraman is one of the last of the limited-edition Omega creations?When limited-edition watches make senseUltimately, the appeal of a limited edition should go beyond scarcity and the reason behind its creation. A compelling LE will stand the test of time when it transcends FOMO and instead captivates through thoughtful, unique design. Most often, however, LEs made in collaboration with or directly linked to a third party try to engage and appeal by becoming something that makes them look like exclusive merch. Lets take Formula 1 as an example. Watches and the highest level of car racing have always been close. At first, it was for functional reasons, which turned into marketing reasons in the last few decades. TAG Heuer has had a foot in motorsports seemingly forever, so the brand being the title sponsor makes perfect sense.The brand releasing all kinds of F1-related watches also makes sense, although the number of them is on the high side. TAG Heuer sponsoring a highly successful and competitive team like Red Bull makes sense as well. has been sponsoring F1 for years without ever releasing an F1 LE watch, which also makes sense, but only when youre , I guess.TAG Heuer Formula 1 Red Bull Racing Special EditionTranscending time and trendsBut what about watch brands sponsoring teams that have never been and will never be at the front of the grid? Who buys team-branded watches linked to a never-winning squad? And since were on this track, who buys a $7K LE mechanical chronograph linked to a movie about F1? That person will be wearing something from a winning yet fictional team. How will a luxury watch like that stand the test of time? It will only do so if it transcends the occasion of its creation with a timeless design and/or looks like it deserves a place in the brands permanent collection.Girard-Perregaux Aston-Martin Laureato LEA good watch is a good watch, regardlessI ll end this rant with more words of wisdom from Mark Twain on how to enjoy the good things in life. The American author of The Adventures of Tom Sawyer (1876) and The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn (1885) once said, Too much of anything is bad, but too much good whiskey is barely enough. For a watch fan, the modified saying Too much of anything is bad, but too many good watches are barely enough works. In the end, whether it s a collaboration or not, a good limited-edition watch is indeed a good watch as long as it shows some restraint in numbers and an uncontrived theme.The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Carbon 25 is a 2,025-piece LE for this years Miami F1 Grand Prix and celebrates the collaboration with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls (VCARB) Formula 1 teamA limited-edition watch should be like a great rock song that impresses when the band plays it electrified on stage but that also moves you when performed acoustically with a single guitar. A limited-edition watch should still look and feel great even if you dont know the story behind it. If the link to the third party - a big and loud PA in a giant stadium, a laser show, fireworks, and lots of smoke - defines, explains, and justifies the watch s existence, the brand hasnt done its job well enough. The appeal must come first and foremost from the watch and the watch brand; Mario or anyone else like him should never be the main character. If you agree or disagree, please let me know in the comment section.