Hands-On: Perpetual 1908 On The Settimo Bracelet

February 15, 2022

When we introduced you to the new combination of a 1908 in yellow gold paired with a Settimo bracelet on April 1st, the price of the full-gold ensemble was CHF 33,400. On that same date, the cost of gold was reported at US$3,120.93 per ounce. As I write this on June 10th, the price of gold per ounce is approximately US$3,329.85. The price went up by 6.7%, but with great pleasure, I can inform you that the price of the full-gold 1908 has not followed that trend or risen in price. Well, not yet. Life has certainties, like death, taxes, and price increases. But now, with the price out of the way, lets focus on the watch that received the Midas touch and walked away better for it. Lets go hands-on with the yellow gold Perpetual 1908 on the lush Settimo bracelet.The bracelet makes the watch. This is the case for plenty of watches, and it certainly is for the Perpetual 1908, which debuted in 2023. The 39mm yellow gold, white gold, and platinum watch is a good-looking timepiece on a leather strap, but it s nothing spectacular. I know, the 1908 is not meant to be spectacular since its s idea of a traditional dress watch, but it could still do with a bit more pizzazz. The seven-row Settimo bracelet in yellow gold brings just that.The yellow gold Perpetual 1908 on the Settimo bracelet has pizzazzThe Perpetual 1908 collection replaces the Cellini, and it does so with a bit more punch than its predecessor. The dress watch features a 39 47 9.5mm case in yellow gold, white gold, or platinum and a partly domed and partly fluted bezel. The platinum version has an ice-blue dial with rice-grain guilloche, while the gold references have either a black or white dial. The new Settimo bracelet is only available for the 18K yellow gold versions of the 1908, and the reference number is 52508-0007 for the black one and 52508-0008 for the white. The latter is the more subtle iteration. Okay, subtle might not be the best word to describe the difference between the two, but the version with the white dial showing applied Arabic numerals and stick markers does give off a more traditional and sophisticated vibe.The blingy and smooth seven-row braceletThe seven-row Settimo bracelet is not just bling, although its links are fully polished; its also silky smooth. This is partly because of the shiny, polished finish, but most of the credit goes to the bracelet s impeccable construction and finishing. The Settimo bracelet has five rows of links in the middle that are slightly narrower than the two on the outside. Its also thin and supple, and instead of pins, uses 18K gold screws to make adjustments easy and reliable.You might also notice the bracelet ends don t curve to hug the case. Rather, they curve only slightly, leaving a noticeable gap. This provides a slightly more retro touch that lightens the overall look of a heavy watch. I didnt bring my scale, but this full-gold creation is heavy. Luckily, the watch has a good balance on the wrist and even better finishing, so the heaviness doesnt cause any irritation. Instead, the weight of the precious metal adds another sensation to the watch s already luxurious appearance. In its full-gold form, this 1908 is a bit too outspoken to compete in the most introverted class of dress watches. However, it can compete with other full-gold dress watches. The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse is often considered a classic best in class, but that iconic creation on a rose gold chain-style bracelet, the reference 5738/1R, is also not exactly a wallflower of a watch.The Perpetual 1908 on a Settimo bracelet couldnt lose, but it did…In a recent Sunday Morning Showdown, the full-gold 1908 went head-to-head with the full-gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Yes, the Reverso has a bracelet made of 16 meters of gold thread, but although thats an impressive number, the result is not impressive enough to prefer it over the seven-row bracelet. Maybe the deciding factor is the very elegant and concealed Crownclasp. constructed something nearly invisible, while JLC did quite the opposite. Still, the Reverso took the victory. Perhaps that is also because the 1908 is not a typical , but the Reverso is very much a typical JLC.This watch has oomphApart from the Settimo bracelet, nothing is new. So, behind the transparent case back of the Perpetual 1908, you will find the slim caliber 7140. This automatic movement features a Chronergy escapement with a Syloxi hairspring for optimal resistance to magnetism. It is rated to 2 seconds per day and provides an autonomy of around 66 hours. The 4Hz movement has 38 jewels, and like all calibers, it will probably be a carefree power source for many years to come.If I were in the market for a top-class dress watch with extra visual oomph, would I consider the full-gold Perpetual 1908? Yes, I would. This watch is like Monty Python s Spanish inquisition. Nobody expects this creation to succesfully be traditional, contemporary, blingy, and flamboyantly elegant all at once, but it does just that. And wearing it feels good. s Midas touch works on the 1908, putting a big smile on my face. What are your thoughts on this full-gold Perpetual 1908? Please let me know in the comments.Watch specifications Brand Model Perpetual 1908Reference 52508-0007 (black dial) / 52508-0008 (white dial)Dial Matte black or white with sub-seconds register and applied yellow gold indexes and numeralsCase Material 18K yellow goldCase Dimensions 39mm (diameter) 47mm (lug-to-lug) 9.5mm (thickness)Crystal SapphireCase Back 18K yellow gold and sapphire crystal Movement 7140: automatic with manual winding and hacking, 28,800vph frequency, 66-hour power reserve, 38 jewels, Chronergy escapement, Syloxi hairspring, accurate to 2 seconds per dayWater Resistance 50 meters (5 ATM)Strap 18K yellow gold Settimo bracelet with concealed CrownclaspFunctions Time only (hours, minutes, small seconds)Price CHF 33,400 / $36,200 / US$35,900 / $30,600