Hands-On With The New Guebly CH1 Retrograde

April 23, 2015

While Watches and Wonders rightfully garnered most of the attention this past April, other brands took the opportunity to show off their wares in nearby venues. Time to Watches was an event held next to Palexpo. I found myself there several times for appointments and had a particularly lovely time sitting down with Adnane Kerd, founder of Guebly. During our session, he revealed his young company s second watch, the CH1 Retrograde.With the surprising number of small, haute horlogerie brands in existence, a possible takeaway is that it s easy to create a new watch. While a pile of money might get it done, the trick is to create a cohesive design instead of a slapdash concept. Adnane Kerd, the founder of Guebly, is a longtime collector who has also undergone watchmaker training. With his passion and technical chops, he created the brand. The company s first watch, the Prologue, was well-received. Now, the brand is back with a follow-up with a greater focus on hand-finishing. Thankfully, the new CH1 Retrograde is still infused with a high level of wearability, making this a unique daily proposition.The Guebly CH1 RetrogradeThe latest Guebly is a Grade 5 titanium watch measuring 42mm by 44.32mm with a thickness of 10.56mm. It is fitted with domed sapphire crystals on both sides and boasts a surprising depth rating of 100 meters. Jean Rousseau creates the dark blue grained leather strap, adding a funky twist. Instead of a typical pin buckle or folding clasp, the strap has a Velcro closure system. This may seem unserious on some watches, but the CH1 Retrograde is all about wearability. On that front, the strap has a push-button removal system, allowing for easy, albeit proprietary, strap changes.A 23-sided caseThe titanium case has a mesmerizing number of facets. In fact, there are 23 edges in all! Instead of looking busy and confused, the shape works due to its compact design. As a retro fan, I see a touch of vintage Grand Seiko 4520-7000 in the finished product, or even the new SBGC23 Spring Drive Chronograph, but that s a positive. It s about time for brands to embrace a different direction versus aping the Royal Oaks of the world. As a note, the overall design was envisioned by Eric Giroud, a well-known Swiss designer who has worked across many brands. Voutilainen & Cattin SA is responsible for the casing and decoration.The blue dial brings together several techniquesUnlike the Prologue, which has a sunburst dial, the CH1 Retrograde adds significantly more detail. The 925 silver dial s central portion features hand-guilloche with a pattern evocative of dunes. Appliques, including the logo and retrograde plaque, are made of gold and contain hand-beveled edges. The retrograde display adds Grand Feu enamel by Ma?lle Constant. The hands are made from Grade 5 titanium and are also fashioned by hand. Once again, in a nod to daily usability, the indices and central hands contain Super-LumiNova.The caliber 21.31 micro-rotor automaticA look through the sapphire display back reveals the caliber 21.31 automatic with its chunky 5N gold oscillating weight. Sylvain Pinaud of Horocraft and Christophe Beuchat designed the 217-component movement, which runs at 28,800vph and has an impressive 70 hours of power reserve. The finishing is also a marvel for the eyes. Ample perlage, anglage, and microblasted surfaces create a modern appearance. The double-spiraled ratchet wheel on the lower left is an eye-catching detail.The CH1 Retrograde is lovely on the wristAs a person with a smaller wrist, I m used to handling beautiful watches from small independents that dominate my wrist. The CH1 Retrograde is different because it fits beautifully. I cannot compare it to the Prologue, but subtle tweaks to the case design have resulted in a watch that can be worn anytime. For a piece that includes this level of hand-finishing and a fun retrograde complication, I think that s an impressive feat. Yes, the watch stands out as something special, but it s composed enough to use daily.Regarding legibility, it s an easy read. When it comes to the dial details, these are exposed as the light changes or the wrist rotates. Ditto this with the case details.Final thoughtsThe CH1 Retrograde has a production run of 80 pieces, which should allow potential buyers to see one in person at one of Guebly s retail partners in Dubai, Geneva, or London. At CHF 38,900, it s not an inexpensive proposition, but it is a unique one. As I ve mentioned several times, the magic of this watch is its ability to fuse several hand-finishing techniques with everyday wearability. The fact that it s more unique than the typical large-branded dressy sports watches is also a great selling point.Watch specifications Brand Guebly Model CH1 Retrograde Dial Blue dial with 925 sterling silver base, hand-applied perlage and hand guilloche. Gold retrograde applique with perlage, satin-finished and beveled by hand; with Grand Feu enamel. Gold applique logo, satin-finished and beveled by hand. Super-LumiNova indices.Case Material Grade 5 titaniumCase Dimensions 42mm (diameter) 44.32mm (lug-to-lug) 10.56mm (thickness)Crystal Domed sapphire with double-sided anti-reflective coatingCase Back Grade 5 titanium with domed sapphire display, fixed with four screws Movement Caliber 21.31: micro-rotor automatic with manual winding, 28,800vph frequency, 70-hour power reserve, 35 jewels, 217 components, variable inertia with regulating screws balance wheel, perlage, anglage, and microbead-finishingWater Resistance 10 ATM (100 meters)Strap Blue grained calfskin leather with blue rubber lining. Velcro closure and Grade 5 titanium buckle.Functions Time (hours, minutes, retrograde seconds)Price CHF 38,900 Special Note(s) Limited edition of 80 pieces