Hands-On: The Stunning New Atelier Wen Inflection

March 01, 2013

Truth be told, I ve waited for a long time to talk about the new Atelier Wen Inflection. I first saw the watches this summer in London and again a month later in Geneva. Before we go further, it s important to note that what you re going to see represents a major shift for the brand. I ve enjoyed everything thus far, but these are truly next level.We ve basically covered Atelier Wen since the brand s inception. Along the way, the Perception, the brand s integrated-bracelet watch with a hand-guilloche dial, has proven to be a crowd pleaser. Naturally, folks raised questions around the Chinese-made movement, but we ve heard of very few issues. Today s new Inflection is thematically similar to the Perception, with its integrated look and a focus on artisanal finishing. Yet, the comparison can essentially stop there. Welcome to an audacious release.The Atelier Wen InflectionThe brand s latest release sports a case and bracelet, if optioned, crafted from 99.9% pure tantalum. Now, if you ve been following Atelier Wen over the past two years, you ll recall that in 2024, the brand produced a limited-edition tantalum Perception. This was already a feat, as it became the first series of integrated-bracelet watches made of this metal. With the Inflection, however, the achievement has been one-upped. While we don t expect these watches to fly off the shelves, two of the colorways are serial-production models.We ve discussed tantalum before, but as a refresher, it s incredibly difficult to machine. The material destroys tooling at a breakneck pace. Plus, it s expensive and relatively rare to begin with. The result of Atelier Wen s perseverance is a 40mm by 45mm case without flat surfaces. In other words, this isn t a blocky, slab-sided design. With a relatively slender 10.25mm profile, despite the weight of the metal, it s also designed to be worn comfortably and features a 100m depth rating. Finally, a variety of finishes includes polished and brushed surfaces.Three beautiful Grand Feu enamel dialsFor the launch, three Inflection models are available with Grand Feu enamel dials. A green fume edition is the limited offering, with just 30 pieces. Obsidian-black and midnight-blue dials will be serial models. For the dial, first, a 925 silver plate is hammered by hand to create the complex surface. Then, the company worked with Kong Lingjun, a Chinese enamel artisan, to create the vivid colors. Finally, watch designer Lee Yuen-Rapati (who lives in London!) designed the radial numerals. Finally, the watches contain either rhodium-plated or gilt leaf-shaped hands. The overall appearance is instantly recognizable as an Atelier Wen watch, but it s different enough from the guilloche on the Perception models.An impressive movementFor the Inflection, Atelier Wen chose to work with Girard-Perregaux for the movement. Underneath the sapphire display, a heavily customized caliber GP03300 peers back with fantastic details. Interestingly, the brand designed the aesthetic finishing, and Girard-Perregaux completed the work. The skeletonized rotor has a tungsten outer section and five rose-gold-plated brass spokes. Underneath, ruthenium-coated bridges show off wavy patterns. Other fineries, such as perlage and anglage, are also visible. From my perspective, the other detail I love seeing is the sheer number of bridges. Also, as an ode to old-time watchmaking, the Atelier Wen name and other movement details are engraved and filled with rose gold. Regarding performance, the movement is adjusted in five positions to provide an accuracy of -0/+10 seconds per day. It also has a frequency of 28,800vph and a power reserve of 48 hours.An impressive braceletThe full-tantalum case is already impressive, and Atelier Wen will offer the watch with a rubber or sailcloth strap. However, we d recommend digging deeply into the coffers to afford the tantalum bracelet. Once again, it s a beautiful object. Brushed links with chamfered edges have separate, polished centers. The resulting execution is incredibly smooth and comfortable on the wrist.Then, the slim clasp uses side-mounted push buttons for opening and closure. The round brand motif is actually a button releasing a patent-pending toolless micro-adjustment function. What s nice about this is that the watch doesn t require removal to adjust the clasp.Awesome and weighty on the wristTrying on a tantalum watch is a rare experience. The polished surfaces look like ceramic, but the comparisons end there. This watch is seriously heavy due to the metal s density, but it is extremely comfortable. Plus, for someone like me with small wrists, the measurements and curved case fit like a glove.Not limited, but the Inflection will be exclusiveFor the first year, Atelier Wen has the capacity to produce 100 Inflection models. Thirty will be green, and the remainder will be blue or black, depending on orders. Speaking of this, the order process will require a chat with the founders to ensure the pieces go to good homes. It s an interesting tactic, but due to the lengthy time it takes to create each piece, there s a desire to favor wearers. The pricing is interesting at US$19,800 on a strap and US$29,800 on the bracelet. Is it expensive? Yes, but does the watch have an actual competitor? Other integrated-bracelet pieces from high-end mainstream brands often sit in this territory but are made from stainless steel or titanium. Therefore, the Inflection stands alone. I consider this an impressive achievement from a small brand that has matured quickly. If you have the opportunity to see one in person, I highly recommend doing so. I doubt you ll come away disappointed.This is a preferred-position post.?Learn more.Watch specifications Brand Atelier Wen Model Inflection Yu (green) / M (black) / Yuan (blue) Dial Green fume, black, or dark blue Grand Feu enamel on hand-hammered 925 silver base, printed Arabic numeralsCase Material 99.9% pure tantalumCase Dimensions 40mm (diameter) 45mm (lug-to-lug) 10.25mm (thickness with crystal)Crystal Box-type sapphire with five layers of antireflective coatingCase Back Tantalum and sapphire crystal, affixed with four screws Movement Customized Girard-Perregaux GP03300: automatic with manual winding and hacking seconds, 28,800vph (4Hz) frequency, 48-hour power reserve, 27 jewels, adjusted to five positions and to temperature, accurate to -0/+10 seconds per day, Chinese wind-motif-inspired skeletonized bridges with anglage, exterior angles, and wavy radial stripes, perlage on mainplate, rotor with five rose-gold-plated spokes and tungsten oscillating weightWater Resistance 10 ATM (100 meters)Strap Integrated tantalum bracelet (22mm width) with folding push-button clasp and toolless micro-adjustment or FKM rubber or sailcloth strapFunctions Time only (hours, minutes, seconds)Price US$19,800 (on strap) / US$29,800 (on bracelet and including one strap)Warranty Five yearsSpecial Note(s) Yu (Green) limited to 30 pieces