Hands-On: The New Serica 5303 PLD

April 09, 2022

Did you know an amagnetic mechanical watch is a key part of an EOD (Explosive Ordnance Disposal) divers equipment? Admittedly, I didnt. However, as it turns out, the slightest magnetic disturbance can set off explosives, rendering any battery-powered watch dangerous to EOD divers. Because of this, the French Navy turned to Serica for an amagnetic mechanical alternative. I got a chance to go hands-on with the new Serica 5303 PLD.The Serica 5303 PLD can be ordered starting May 20th, 2025. This new version of Sericas diver costs $1,690 and comes with the familiar mesh bracelet and a secondary elastic Serica PLD strap. Lets have a closer look!The Serica 5303 PLD shares most of its specs with the regular 5303If you are familiar with Sericas 5303 diver, the PLD package will look and feel familiar. It is, after all, a relatively modest adaptation of the French brands core dive model. You still get a 39mm stainless diver with 12.2mm thickness and a 46.5mm lug-to-lug. Serica rates its water resistance at 300 meters thanks to a thick sapphire crystal up top and an all-steel case back.The original 5303Inside ticks the Soprod caliber M100. This is a drop-in alternative to the ETA 2892-A2, although it isnt an exact clone. This movement from the Festina Group comes with a 42-hour power reserve and ticks at a 4Hz (28,800vph) frequency. Serica provides regulation within COSC standards, and the watch is certified accordingly. While the Serica 5303 PLD comes with a secondary strap, the mesh bracelet is probably your first option. Frankly, I find this the weakest link in the package. Although the mesh with its fitted end links certainly looks suave, it isnt the greatest in terms of ease of use, and it feels a bit dainty, especially for a military-themed watch.The Serica 5303 PLD treatmentSo, whats new about the PLD version of the 5303 for the French Navy divers? The most obvious thing to jump out is the new bezel color. The team at Serica tends to nail the use of colors, and this is no exception. You get a dark, slightly grayish blue, making for a very classy and versatile look. Speaking of the bezel, the regular 5303s minute and hour scales make way for a maximum dive time scale. The bezel displays the maximum allowed operation time for a range of depths.The other differences are more subtle. The seconds hand, for instance, received a bit of a steroid treatment. The resulting fat lollipop aids in legibility with its thicker lume plot. Keen observers might also note the amagnetique signature at 6. As mentioned in the opening paragraph, that is a key bit of information for the Serica 5303 PLDs target audience.Lastly, the additional elastic strap represents Sericas take on a French Navy classic. The fabric loop closes with custom brushed Serica hardware, completing an attractive package.Wearing the Serica 5303 PLDIt is no secret that I am a fan of Sericas aesthetic. I get why it would be divisive, but I like the mid-century vibe with modern design quirks. When I first unpacked the new Serica 5303 PLD, I instantly connected with the watch. It feels special, and I find it very attractive. The odd color combination of a blue bezel with a khaki-green and yellow strap makes it look as if I put it on a random strap from my collection myself. Interestingly, I found this makes it feel worn in and familiar straight away. The comfort offered by this kind of elastic strap only helps that experience.I have always been a fan of the 5303 and its proportions. It feels ever so slightly tubby in a likable and sympathetic way, especially with the added layers of fabric underneath. I also find it wears fairly small for its 39mm diameter, which I like.Although the PLD certainly gives off a tool-watch vibe, it is also still very much a Serica. That means it oozes Parisian flair and style. I guess the refined little details, like the split bezel and nicely curved lugs, provide a bit of je ne sais quoi. Or maybe I am just projecting. In any case, a tool watch from Serica never feels clinical like, say, a Sinn.This also means I struggle a little bit with the military theme. I am still unsure whether thats what I want from Serica or whether it is better left to other brands. Still, I fully understand that any young brand would jump at the chance to collaborate with a military unit, even if only for the street cred it provides.Closing thoughtsI greatly admire Sericas strength in conveying a specific image through its watches. The aesthetic is so specific that you will recognize a Serica from across the room. Thats no mean feat, especially when you lean on a vintage design language at the same time. Serica finds a unique signature, creating something that stands alone. The fact that this design language isnt for everyone only speaks for the brand. It is better to be great to some than to be mediocre to everybody.I could see myself driving an old Citro?n DS down to a lovely French harbor town, boarding a small boat, and going out for a dive in turquoise waters before lunch while wearing the Serica 5303 PLD. Thats precisely the kind of spell this watch puts on me. That is also rather far removed from naval EOD operations. Is the 5303 PLD too elegant for its intended purpose? Or is Serica simply too suave to be considered a military supplier? Or is it all in my head, and should we simply embrace stylish military watches from the Parisian brand?I honestly dont know. But I like the watch a lot!What do you think of the new Serica 5303 PLD? Let us know in the comments section below!Watch specifications Brand Serica Model 5303 PLD Dial Black with painted white luminous indexesCase Material Stainless steel with a blue ceramic bezel insertCase Dimensions 39mm (diameter) 46.5mm (lug-to-lug) 12.2mm (thickness)Crystal SapphireCase Back Stainless steel, screw-in Movement Soprod M100: automatic with manual winding and hacking, 28,800vph frequency, 42-hour power reserve, 25 jewels, COSC-certified chronometerWater Resistance 300 metersStrap Stainless steel mesh bracelet (20/16mm) and elastic PLD strapFunctions Time (hours, minutes, seconds), maximum dive time bezelPrice $1,690